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Old 06-26-2015, 05:27 PM   #1
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T-330SR - Need some help on tongue weight

Another new owner, recently added a T-330SR to the family. Towed before but not anything this heavy. The specs in the owners manual differ from the info on the closet door. anyone help me out figuring the tongue load?
(GVWR 10,000,) from closet door
(Base unit dry 7315, hitch 975lbs.) owners manual
I realize its a little apple / orange comparision,
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:05 PM   #2
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Hi Rambler,

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club and congrats on your new Sunny!

That is one nice camper you have. And a big one. Your camper and mine are close in size and weight. Your is starting out a little heavier.

I see you posted your interior weight sticker. GREAT!!! That helps.



I'll first explain the differences in the Base unit weight of 7,315 and the interior sticker weight of 7,966#. A Base unit is a catalog weight for a particular model less added options. The interior sticker is the weight the camper was built too the day it left Sunline. Your unit has some added options that has upp'ed the weight from the brochure base unit weight. The inside sticker is correct for your VIN camper.

Now to the tongue weight, the base unit declares 975# weight. But... that is the "base" unit and it is less LP gas in the tanks and the battery weight. Otherwise known as a "dry" weight in the RV world.

You can see by your weight sticker, the LP gas when filled weight 68#, if you have one single battery adds apprx 46#. That will add approx 100# to your tongue weight.

The 975 base unit tongue + 100# battery and LP = 1,075 and that does not include any camping gear inside. Your added options might bump that up to approx ~ 1,120#

Since you have a front kitchen, that is heavy up front. In the back of the camper there is a storage hole from the outside. When you load that rear cargo hole with gear it will help take some of the weight off the front.

If you are like the rest of us.... on a camper that large, adding 1,000 to 1,200# of "stuff" is common. Your loaded tongue weight could be in the 1,300 to 1,400# range.

I see you have a F250. Good thing. I do not know what year yours is, on my 05 F350 it came with a 1,250# rated in WD mode receiver. I had to change mine to a 1,700# 2 1/2" receiver to handle the high tongue weight on my floor plan. When fully loaded, mine weighs in at 1,600#. Heavy bugger but it tows very stable at 16% loaded tongue weight.

You will need a WD hitch. I would recommend a Reese HP trunnion bar hitch and they do offer them in 1,500# WD bars or 1,700#. I would also get the dual cam with it for anti sway control. If you would like, I have pics of my hitch setup which would be just like your A frame so you can see it all mounted. Can help with the setup too if needed. Reese also makes a upgraded receiver too if yours is not rated at 1,500# in WD mode. Curt and others also make good after market receivers. I myself would recommend taking the jump to 2 1/2" pin box over the standard 2" if you are going to upgrade. I did am I am glad I did when pulling the camper.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:15 PM   #3
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I just saw, you have a 2003 F250. Odds are your receiver is like what mine was, like this



So you can see what you are up against in changing, see here.
Ford Receiver Upgrade


Heads up, either have 3/4" drive ratchet tools, rent or borrow. Those bolts are lock tighted and take a man and a small boy to get them off....
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Old 06-27-2015, 03:17 PM   #4
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Thanks JohnB, for all the info! Let me run one other question by you and anyone that might help. The roof seems to be in good shape, but it's puffy like it's inflated. There are no soft spots and there aren't any cracks in any caulked seams. The question is, am i in trouble or not?
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Old 06-27-2015, 06:25 PM   #5
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The "puffy" roof. What you are feeling may be totally normal for a Sunline rubber roof for the year of your camper.

Many (most) Sunline rubber roofs are created like this:

  • Rafters are placed left to right across the camper and on a nominal 16" centers.
  • Opening for vents, shower domes, AC units are boxed out in the framing.
  • The rubber membrane is glued to a solid thick corrugate backer board that was called "bud board". It is about 1/16 to 3/32" thick and solid. It is not cardboard, but more of a dense fiber board.
  • The budboard and rubber membrane is then placed over the rafters and sealed to the walls.
  • They used this method to save weight.
  • An option for 3/8" OSB board for a full walk on roof or partial walk on roof was available but only on special order when new at the factory. While some folks have this option, most do not.
Here is a post on the bud board make up.

Sunline Rubber Roof Structure

That bud board structure can feel like a "drum" or "puffy" in places in between the rafters. Even some light sags. If that is what you are seeing, this is normal.

HEADS UP. This roof structure is not a "direct" walk on roof. You will go right through it if you stand on the roof between the rafters. How we service the AC unit or other items in the middle of the roof is to put a tarp or carpet or something down to protect the rubber and the using 3/8, 1/2 or 5/8 plywood pieces that will span the 16" rafter spacing place them on the tarp etc and crawl to your location. I use 1/2" x 2' x 4' plywood pieces. Light enough to man handle up there but strong enough I know I'm not going through.

See this post on annual caulking inspection (actually ideally 4 times a year once your camper is over 3 years old) It shows the tarp/plywood method and how to inspect and seal the splits in the caulking. Being a hawkeye on this caulking and attending to hair line splits when they start is the best thing you can do to prevent water damage. If you plan to keep your camper a long time, doing an Eternabond treatment on all roof seams is something to consider. It is an alternate to the sealant as your only defense agasint water intrusion.
Rubber Roof Caulk - Inspect and repair 101

If you want to look into the Eternabond, see here
Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond®

Eternabond Roof Seal Tape on a Sunline (Lots of pics)

Hope this helps


John
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Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
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