Looking for oppinion towing with my GMS Sierra

[mattshfd]

Hi all...I have a T1850 that weights about 3,000lbs empty with a tounge weight of 340lbs empty. I have just purchased it used from a dealer and will be picking it up in spring.

I was wondering if I should be thinking about weight distribution bars or helper springs on my truck. Does anybody think Ill sag the rear of my truck with the above trailer weight. Obviously it will weight more when loaded for camping. My truck is two wheel drive 2002 GMC Sierra 1500.

The salseman dosent think the trailer will effect the rear suspension, I think its going to drop a bit. I will be driving only 20 miles home so I can always take it easy on my first trip.

How about sway bars? Should I wait and see if I need those? Anybody towing with a similiar setup?

[PTHutch]

Congrates on the new (to you) Sunline.

I would definitely recommend a good Weight Distribution hitch with sway control. The Reese Dual Cam is an excellent hitch and many members here have them.

I think with a WD hitch setup properly you won’t need helper springs.

I don’t know what your truck’s weight ratings are (i.e., GCWR, GVWR, and Rear Axel Weight Rating (RAWR)), but I’m confident your trailer is well within your trucks towing and weight limits.

Hutch

[nickster60]

I dont think 350 lb of tongue weight will be to much. My F150 sit pretty well with my T1950. I agree with Hutch get yourself a good hitch and a sway control and you should be fine. I use 1 sway bar on my setup they do help. If you havent towed alot in the past my best advice is just use some common sense, and drive at a reasonable speed.

[GhettoMedic]

My camper is APPOX. 2,500 Lbs empty (And it never is) and my 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 does not sag with the distribution and only sags a couple inches if connected without distribution (For short movement around yard)

[Bobo]

Matt,

I pull my 2499 with a 2003 Chevy 1500, 2WD. 4800 motor, 4 speed auto, 3:42 RA. Yes I am close to the max tow capacity(6100#), but taking my time and avoiding large upgrades, I can get by until I can upgrade. Yes go for the WD hitch and a good brake contoller like the Prodigy. As for the truck, make sure you have the towing package on it and use the tow/haul mode on the tranny.

If you decide to travel further but can not afford a new tow vehicle, I recommend switching to a full synthetic motor oil ( I use Mobil One) and a high air flow air filter like the K & N brand. Using both of these items on my truck has improved my gas milage and given me more power.

Bobo

[Mooney]

OK, with Ghettomedic's (new to him, formerly my) camper, which sat really low, my '98 1/2 ton sagged about 1.25 inches, but the springs had 150K miles, and there's a lightly loaded toolbox and a cap on the back of my truck.... without weight bars. With weight bars, it still sagged as you see below.

So, when we upgraded to the new camper, to offset the weight of the cap/ toolbox, and negate the miles on the old springs, I went with the 3/4 ton springs for the same year. Now, the truck rides rock steady- and with the new 5000 lb (500lb tongue wgt.) I don't need the weight bars to achieve NO drop. I do use the bars though, puts less strain on either frame, and it keeps the scissor effect down.

As long as you don't drop TOO much (say 1" is OK, 2" is not, 1.5 is so-so) you should be fine. I would get them anyway, just to keep the ride smooth. It will also affect the aim of your headlights if you sag a lot- other drivers may not be so happy....

As for sway bars, I used mine some of the time. Mainly for long hauls at high speed. Even then, the 19 1/2 didn't sway much at all. The bigger camper presents a much larger profile, so I have not towed at highway speed without the sway bar. Just be careful on tight jackknife manuevers- they can bend your swaybar....when backing into a tight area I always remove the sway bar just in case I get a little carried away...