Hitch Recommendations

[beecrazy]

Hello All,

Need a little advice (not a new topic here).

Just picked up a 05 T-2363. Tongue weight is around 500 #s and trailer weight loaded will be around 5000#.

Tow vehicle is 06 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4 Quad Cab Short Box.

I borrowed a 5 1/4" drop ball mount ( I need a 6" drop) and the truck squatted about 1 1/4" maybe a hair more.

I am looking for recommendations of whether or not I should go with a weight distributing hitch or a standard drop hitch. If I go with a standard hitch do I need any sway control? I am a believer of having plenty of truck with which I do- The truck weighs more than the trailer, probably 6800# I believe.

It doesn't drop much, so I think I probably don't need one but have little experience in this department.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

[Poppy & Nana]

We had a T1950 and we used a WDH, now have a 2499 and definitely use a WDH....you'll get that response from just about everyone here.....we tend to err on the side of safety!

[JohnB]

Hi Bee,

You for sure have a great truck for towing the camper no problem there.

Now to the hitch, see this post where I weighed 2 loaded T2363's the way folks go camping.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...hts-10765.html

Be expecting a 650 to possibly 700# loaded tongue weight. Yes, stuff adds up....LOL It is amazing what "stuff" weighs. And most is all in 10 or 20# items, just a lot of them.

And then there is gear in the bed of the truck. Weight behind the rear axle works on the WD hitch. Best is to move heavy items to behind the cab verses right on the tail gate are. This helps reduce the effect on the WD hitch.

With a 650 to 700# loaded tongue weight it is almost a mandate to use a WD hitch just for the truck receiver. Look at your reciever, there should be 2 ratings on it.

Weight carrying, this is raw tongue weight. It is often at 500# even on a 2500.

Weight Distributing, this is the tongue weight the receiver can use handle with a WD hitch. This number is usually always higher then the weight carrying number.

See this sticker off my F350 as Ford gives as stock.


Odds are high your Dodge is close to the same unless you upgraded it.

Even if you have an upgraded receiver, having a 650 to 700# tongue weight hanging some 65 " behind the rear axle can benefit in truck steering from using a WD hitch. The truck will be more solid in the front end. Now I know you have that monster CTD up front, but it still can help.

For that size TT, an 800 for 750# WD hitch would be a good size. And they make several with built in sway control.


Equal-L-izer brand by Progress Mfg makes one, they offer a 600# unit in their 4 point then jump to a 1,000# system.
Equal-i-zer® Hitch - Product Info - Specifications

They do have a sister company that make a 2 point in the 800# range. Here is one from RV wholesalers.

E2 Weight Distribution with 2-Point Sway Control Trunnion 800 / 8,000 lb Trunnion - RVWholesalers.com RV Parts

And Etrailer
Fastway e2 Weight Distribution w/ 2-Point Sway Control - Trunnion - 8,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW Fastway Weight Distribution FA92-00-0800

Here is the main site, Fastway a div of Progress
Fastway Trailer Products - Home

Reese makes one that is a combo unit too, called their SC hitch. This one you can upgrade the WD bars if some day you buy a bigger camper. The Equal-I-zer you have to buy the whole new hitch.

Here it is on Etrailer
Reese SC Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion - 10,000 lbs GTW, 800 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66153

You may need a longer drop shank and a tow ball top go with either of those hitches.

And then there is the standard WD hitch with a friction add on sway bar. In your case this will work too with the heavy truck.

Hope this helps and let us know if you need more.

John

[beecrazy]

That answered my question!

I did a little research this a.m. because I couldn't find a sticker or rating on my reciever. Apparently it is required by Dodge to have weight distributing on anyhthing over 400#s tongue weight.

I recieved an Equil-i-zer WD hitch (600/6000# model) with the camper among other things! But it is the standard shank that has maybe 2 1/2" drop to it. I couldn't get the camper up the drive way with out it scraping the skid bars (don't know what to call them and thinking about putting some casters back there).

So I can pick up a 6" drop skank for the trailer and I am set. My brother in-law just picked up a travel trailer and borowed the hitch without the bars to drag is camper home. He was wondering if I was going to use it since it would fit his GMC 1500 pickup- I will have to give him the bad news.

It is amazing the different opinions you get from different people, and I never thought about the hitch weight ratings! Glad I asked here

I will have to search for a drop skank, at least I have several months. I already picked up a P2 brake controller.

Thank you,

Don

[JohnB]

Hi Don,

Well you lucked out! When you listed your goodies that came with the TT today I saw a WD hitch in the pack.

Just keep an eye on the loaded tongue weight. If you go a lot over the 600# you can be in for an upgrade. One down side of the Equal-I-zer brand is that you have to buy an entire new hitch to upgrade. The hitch head changes on every model along with the WD bars. It is a very good hitch, just has this one draw back. The Reese brand allows several WD bars to fit the same higher capacity hitch head so upgrading is easier. Just change the WD bars.

If you do not have a manual for the hitch, see the Equal-I-zer web site. You can down load them there.

Good luck

John

[beecrazy]

Good call, I just downloaded the manual- once I get a 6" drop shank I will have to set it up. I have never messed with a WD hitch before, but after reading the manual it make sense.

The one thing I like about the Equal-i-zer is that it is made in USA

When someone suggested going with just a plain hitch, I had a heck of a time finding a ball mount that wasn't made in China. The only ones I could find were made of aluminum.

I see e-trailer caries the Equal-i-zer shanks and it says USA in the description I will spend extra for things made in USA, it is just getting harder and harder (I am not trying to start a debate)

Time to start collecting parts-

Thanks John

Don

[JohnB]

Don, If you need hitch help, this is the place to ask. We have several Equal-I-zer owners on the forum.

And once you understand the underlying principles of what the WD hitch is suppose to do, then it does not matter so much the brand you can figure them out. The key is knowing what it is on the truck want want to end up with.

Good luck

John

[Codder0511]

Hi
I am running with an Equal-I-zer system between my T2075 and Chevy Tahoe.
It is a great and solid system. Made in the USA. It is not cheap, but I will be the first to say it performs very well and certainly eliminates sway. I am using a 10" drop mount and 1000# bars.

[Davis]

I can't give you a good advice since I'm just new to this RV world but I can refer you to this guys when it comes to hitches problem. Give them a call and just incase they don't have the product you need, they can give you a number or a link to check things out.
Trailer Hitches - 5th Wheel Hitch - Gooseneck Hitch - Reese Hitch

[beecrazy]

I purchased a 9" drop shank for the rig from etrailer.com, I wanted a shank that was made in America by Equil-i-zer (not some Chinese thing I would be worried about).

Was $150 shipped (trailer came with a 6000 lb Equil-i-zer hitch but the shank was only around a 3.5" drop)

Don

[Codder0511]

Here are a few shots of our rig, hooked up on the Tahoe.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Codder0511

Here are a few shots of our rig, hooked up on the Tahoe.

Hi Codder,

Your hitch setup looks good. Good job!

I could not see it in the pics, and just giving a friendly heads up in case it is missing from your camper.

I did not see an Emergency Break Away cable or switch that activates the TT brakes in the event the trailer breaks free from the truck. It is a good idea to have one and a DOT requirement in many states on this size trailer.

Is one missing from your camper or did I miss it in the pics? They are not that costly to add if you need one.

Hope this helps

John

[Codder0511]

Hi John

Wow, you don't miss much!
Yes, we have the Break Away cable from the brakes, just not connected when I too the photo's.

Good point you brought it up though. I've have noticed quite a few TT running around lately without them.

Cheers!
Nick//