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Old 07-14-2009, 07:54 PM   #1
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Found a draw bar and hitch head today..

I went to a place in Winchester, VA today, that deals exclusively with trailers. The place has been there for years, but I completely forgot about it.. Go figure!

When I got there, the owner told me that he didn't have any draw bar/hitch head combos in stock. He did have a 14,000lb draw bar, by itself. He said that he had an old combo in the shop, but it was welded and non-adjustable. He walked to the shop and brought it back into the store front, so I could see it. It did not have the right size ball on it, so he said: "I'll let you have this one to try, if you want. We will have to get a bigger ball on it though." When I asked how much, I was told: "Just let me know, if it works"

Since the old ball was rusted solid, he had to torch it off. While he was cleaning it up, I saw a hitch head lying on a different work bench. I picked it up and asked him what it was to/for... The ball mount for the friction sway control had been broken off and the owner had only replaced the hitch head.

I looked at it and found that it almost identical to the one Kitty now has. Even the notch where the WD bars go in, were undamaged. I asked if he thought it would work and he said that he didn't see why they wouldn't. Turns out, that the hitch head was Reese, just like the draw bar I had seen in the store front.

He asked me to go and get it, while he found a 3/4" bolt kit for it. When I came back, he showed me how it went together properly and even put a new 2-5/16" ball, with the 1-1/4" shank on it...

We got it together and it looked sweet! The only thing wrong with it, was the jagged edge where the sway ball mount had broken off.

When we went back inside the store, he asked me if $100 was too much..

I got a new 14,000lb draw bar, new ball and the hitch head for $100!

I also asked him about some of the factory brake control wiring in my truck and he grabbed a test light.. He went to the truck, showed me the in-cab brake controller wiring and proceeded to test everything! He showed me which wires to connect to the trailer plug and how to do it right. He then went on, to draw me a complete wiring diagram for the brake controller. Both for the in-cab connections and the trailer plug.

He even wrote down the wire colors for everything from memory. Perhaps if I get a chance, I can scan his diagrams and color coding info..

Needless to say, this man knows his stuff and now has a new "Loyal" customer! I would HIGHLY recommend this shop, to anyone!

DeHaven's trailer sales.. Winchester, VA

After I left, I went to our locomotive shop and cut off the excess metal from the hitch head. I then ground it down, to make it neat. A fresh coat of black paint made it look even better! I didn't take any pics of it YET, but I will!
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Old 07-14-2009, 09:41 PM   #2
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Wow, what a find. Great!

A friendly heads up. Reese had some all cast steel hitch heads and they look like the new ones unless you look real close. They had some issues. The new ones ( ~ year 2000 to 2002 and newer) are forged steel top and bottoms with the large steel U shape that goes around the shank is a piece of flat bar welded to the top and bottom. This new design replaced the all cast ones.

The design HP head looks like this. It is 3 pieces welded together. A top, A U part and a bottom.








If that is the one you have then GREAT! If it is the all cast one, heads up. There can be a fit up issue to the hitch shank. If they squeeze to hard they can crack and they have.

The friction sway ball arm being broke off, this should not a problem as long as the one side looks like the other side and you ground the edges smooth. They probaly snapped it off doing a rigth turn. I have been thinking of cutting mine off anyway as it limits how far a right hand turn can be before crashing the frame. I know about it and take caution to not turn that hard right. You can turn harder left then right beacsue of the friction ball arm.

You said 1 1/4 " ball shank. You mean the bolt part with the threads or the ball rise. Did you get a hi rise ball and is it stamped more capacity then 10,000#?

The one on the left is the hi rise ball. The one on the right a standard height ball. Both are 1 1/4" shanks


Only friendly heads up on that is with a 6" frame and the ball coupler on top you can get into a bind with the DC if there is not enough clearance. And if the bind goes to far, you can brake off the DC arm. The hi rise ball lowers the hitch head and creates part of the needed clearance. Then having enough links under tension also helps create the right clearance.

You will not have a problem towing straight or even slight turns with the standard ball, but if you get into a hard turn and the TV is at and angle to the TT, then it can setup the bind condition.

I linked you to Tractor Supply in the receiver post if you do not have one yet. The standard ball could get you home with it as I know you are pressed for time but be carefull in turns until you can change it out.

I do not want to scare you just a freindly heads up as this has happend. If you have the hi rise ball now, then great that is part of the setup. If not, take it easy until you get it.

As a quick note, here is the problem. There is more to this but this shows the problem. The WD bar acts like a lever against the DC arm and if it contiunes, the arm gets stressed. If the truck is at an angle to the TT, it can happen in less turning angle.


Here is less turn, truck on an angle.


Here are 2 camping buds that had the problem until we figuired out what was going on. The end result looked like this. Yuk.




Hope this helps and good luck. Did the receiver come in yet? It’s Tuesday, counting down the days now…

John
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:40 AM   #3
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Thanks a ton for the reply! I did go to TSC and got two high-rise, 25,000# hitch balls.

One for me and one for Kitty's rig.

I will investigate the hitch head and take pics.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:23 AM   #4
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GREAT!! Good for you.

Any help you need with setup, ask away. Glad to share.

John
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:00 AM   #5
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I got the high-rise ball put on today and noticed that my hitch head IS the one-piece design.

If you know where it's prone to cracking, I can have it reinforced. The head looks well-used, so perhaps it will be fine for now.

Kitty just called and told me that my new Curt receiver is in! I'll be picking it up toot-sweet!
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:01 PM   #6
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HUM, 11am and he's posting on the website. He always tells me how "hard" he's working

Kitty
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:18 PM   #7
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Just FYI: I was just sitting down to lunch!

We got the new Curt 14001 receiver today and installed it this evening! Kitty was both moral and install support!

I also wired up the 7-way plug again, since the T connector for the stop/turn/tail had basically rotted away..

While I was at NAPA today, I asked if they had any brake controller pigtails for the 93 F250. As I've heard so many times this week, I was told that they only had the 94 and up pigtails. I went ahead and bought one, so I could "Tinker" with it.

The 92-93 pigtail has four holes and four wires. Simple enough! In 94, they decided that there weren't enough holes.. Solution: Add two more holes! Did they put any wires in those holes??? Of course not!

My solution, was to take the wires out of the six-hole connector and then attack it with my dremel tool. I wanted it to look like the four hole connector and it only took about a minute to get it there! It's a good feeling, when you mod something and it fits perfectly, the FIRST time! I then put the wires back into the connector, in the proper order. Easy enough!

I ran out of daylight, before I could snap any pics.. It really sucks, posting in a vacuum! I haven't posted any pics, since the ones of the "New" T320SR... I have some catch up to do!
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Old 07-16-2009, 09:18 PM   #8
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I dug and dug for the pics of the cracked heads but cannot locate them. This was a big talking point back in 2004. The pictures posted by others have been changed on there picture server and no longer show up.

But I found this as I personally know this person, a very good camping buddy we camp with some times and we talked about his hitch head. His did not crack but he changed it after he learned of the run of problems with that batch of them.



Note the square washer with the hole drilled off center and the high raised up ball mounting area. And naturally all one piece. Now they also had a 2nd version of the trunnion bar head with the issue, all cast but I” think” it had the serrated washer as well like mine. Since I can't find the pics, I can't say for sure. Reese has changed the head tilt feature so many times in the pre 2000 time frame I lost track. But now they have setteled in on the serrated washer adjusting tilt which I really like.

There where like 2 all cast versions that had some issues in the trunnion bar series in the 2000 era. Reese part number #58088 or the Reese #54944 ballmount. Now you will not find any numbers anywhere.

But the combo was, all cast and trunnion bar. The round bar hitch head are all cast but they did not show up with the problems. And not all cast trunnions ones had problems. The very ealry models where fine 70's to mid 90's. It was just a bad batch of them that surfaced around the 2000 time frame and then some dealers had them left on there shelves a long time. I actually saw one new for sale, dust and all on a dealer shelf 2 years ago back in Kingston NY. It had to be almost 10 years old.

Here was the issue. The width of the large 2” nominal U slot that goes over the shank. In some cases the U was too large and shims where to be used to take up the space. Some never put the shims in or they never sent them with the the shank. Then some folks where using the all cast head with a non brand Reese shank which could have been narrower.

The problem was tightening up on the hitch head bolt and trying to squeeze that all cast U shape too far to tighten up against the shank. That gap between the casting U and the shank created a stress point and given the right situation a crack could develop in the head around that U shaped area separating the U from the trunnion sockets.

Now if you want to check it for cracks, at work do they have a dye penetrate test kit or even better, a wet florescent magnetic particle test system Aka Magna Flux? Both can find fine cracks the human eye cannot see.

I would not try and repair it if you find a crack. The weld may cause more issues setting up stress areas

So for sure if you are squeezing the U shape to clamp up a gap to the hitch shank, that is not good.

If you are ever want to upgrade it, you can buy just the Reese hitch head PN 58167 http://www.etrailer.com/p-58167.htm The last one I bought a while back was $165. Now I see they are up to $199. a search on the web might find a little cheaper but make sure it is that PN.

Good luck

John

Oh great news on the new reciever. Yes the 7 wire plug can be the longest time consumer.... unless you get a rusted frozen bolt to deal with.
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Old 07-16-2009, 09:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
HUM, 11am and he's posting on the website. He always tells me how "hard" he's working

Kitty
Hey, us guys need our mid day SOC fix every now and then.....

It's a lunch time past time sometimes....

Lets see, it is what 36 hours from aquistion time? Have fun camping in that new camper.

John
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB

Note the square washer with the hole drilled off center and the high raised up ball mounting area. And naturally all one piece. Now they also had a 2nd version of the trunnion bar head with the issue, all cast but I” think” it had the serrated washer as well like mine. Since I can't find the pics, I can't say for sure. Reese has changed the head tilt feature so many times in the pre 2000 time frame I lost track. But now they have setteled in on the serrated washer adjusting tilt which I really like.
I don't have that two-hole piece... All I have, is the serrated piece. My hitch head is not serrated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Here was the issue. The width of the large 2” nominal U slot that goes over the shank. In some cases the U was too large and shims where to be used to take up the space. Some never put the shims in or they never sent them with the the shank. Then some folks where using the all cast head with a non brand Reese shank which could have been narrower.

The problem was tightening up on the hitch head bolt and trying to squeeze that all cast U shape too far to tighten up against the shank. That gap between the casting U and the shank created a stress point and given the right situation a crack could develop in the head around that U shaped area separating the U from the trunnion sockets.
Good luck

John
When I put the two pieces together, it was a tight fit. I had to get the head past the tiny bit of extra paint on the shank. It almost didn't go...
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMD_Driver

I don't have that two-hole piece... All I have, is the serrated piece. My hitch head is not serrated.
H'mm.... that is odd. It's time for a picture so I can see what exactly you ended up with.

Over the years Reese has had a few types systems of adjusting the head tilt.

1. A square washer with holed drill off center to create an eccentric. The hitch head has lugs on it that capture the outside of the square. By rotating the square washer the eccentric effect allowed the head to be locked in position while creating head tilt. And then you could pick a 2nd hole to get more positions

2. A hex washer with a hole drilled off center. They still use this today on there round bar heads. Similar to the square washer type, but a hex rotating washer.

3. A serrated hitch head with teeth and a square washer with teeth with a hole drilled in the middle of it, no eccentric. You pick different teeth to lock the head in position. I like this one the best as it gives the most adjustment and fine adjustment.

It sounds like you may have an actual 4th version that I have not seen yet. It would not surprise me one bit as how to adjust the hitch head changed a lot between before 2002

OR you have pieces from 2 different types and they really do not work right together.

If you have a serrated washer and no serrated head, does the head have 2 lugs on it to capture the outside of the washer? And if the hole is drilled in the middle of the washer, then there is no eccentric and thereby no head tilting adjustment. It is in one fixed location. Which if this is the case, you are limited to only chains adjustment which most times do not cover all the issues in WD adjustment. This thought is a combo of a head from version 1 or 2 above with the washer from version 3 above.

If all you are missing is the washers and have a lugged head, make 2 new eccentric washers. They are about ¼ to 5/16” thick. They “might” be available for sale as a spare part still but you cannot buy a new hitch head made like that at this present time period. Unless one is hanging around in a dealers back shelf for the last 10 years.

Again a picture here will educate us a lot better.

Good luck.

It sounds like you have a tight fitting shank at least, good. Look for any signs of cracks by the U shaped part or along the head between the upper and lower part.
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Old 07-17-2009, 06:36 PM   #12
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Finally got my camera and a little bit of daylight! Here's what I have...



This is the assembly.. Notice the notch, where the sway ball mount used to be...



Here's an aerial view.. There's still a bunch of meat on the side, where the ball mount was.



The underside..



Notice the trial plate, mounted under the upper bolt. The hole is centered, so it makes the ball lean down a bit.



The other side.



the sticker, on the shank.



Here's a shot of mine (Right) and Kitty's (Left) for comparison.



Here's the plates I made, to replace the ones with teeth that came with my hitch bolts. While attempting to drill them, the drill press decided to break on me. I'll have to wait until next week, to try drilling them again. I'm not entirely sure, of where to drill the holes. If I make them around 3/8" from one side, the ball should be straight up. Any helpful insight here?

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Old 07-18-2009, 11:47 AM   #13
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If you do not drill before Sunday night, I will send some possible combinations of offset diminsions

But I need 2 things to determine hole pattern

1. what is the diminsion of the square washer that fits between the cast lugs on the head? This would be the OD of the square

2. Is the hitch head bolt that goes thru the square washer a 3/4" bolt or a 5/8 dia bolt?

Kittys is a 3/4". I just measured mine. But your older head may be different. A different bolt dia could affect the layout I give you

Let me know before Sunday at 6:00PM and I will give hou some options to consider

Be back Sunday night

John
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Gary

If you do not drill before Sunday night, I will send some possible combinations of offset dimensions

But I need 2 things to determine hole pattern
Ok.... Shoot!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
1. what is the dimension of the square washer that fits between the cast lugs on the head? This would be the OD of the square
It is 2.25" wide by 2" high. We had some 2"x3/8" steel at the shop and I cut some into 2.25" lengths. I can make as many of these, as I need to. Just have to wait on the drill press to be fixed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
2. Is the hitch head bolt that goes thru the square washer a 3/4" bolt or a 5/8 dia bolt?

Kitty's is a 3/4". I just measured mine. But your older head may be different. A different bolt dia could affect the layout I give you
I have the 3/4" bolts. They fit the hitch head perfectly..

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Let me know before Sunday at 6:00PM and I will give you some options to consider

Be back Sunday night

John
Okie dokie... Thanks!
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Old 07-19-2009, 05:19 PM   #15
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Ok John...

Here's some more info, for you to digest... Perhaps you can help keep me out of trouble!

The receiver I got was a Curt #14001, which is rated for:
1000/10,000 weight carrying and 1200/12,000 WD.

The draw bar is rated to 14,000 WD

Ball is a high-rise 2-5/16" rated to 25,000lbs.

Truck is a 1993 F250, with the 7.3L diesel in it.

Front GAWR is 4410

Rear GAWR is 6084

Truck's GVWR is 8800

fully loaded with 145 gallons of fuel, it weighs in at 6820lbs.

According to Kitty's 2003 Sunline brochure, the tongue weight (Empty) of the T-320 SR is 775lbs.

The paper in the 320, says that the max trailer weight is 10,000lbs

Hopefully, this info will help me get the rig properly setup..

Gary
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Old 07-19-2009, 11:21 PM   #16
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Sorry, got home late on Sunday. Didn't get everything done I wanted to for you, but here is a start. Sorry.

Since you do not have 2 1/4" sq steel but a lot of 2" x 3/8 bar stock that can be cut into several pieces, here see if this helps.

The new HP head, like Kittys, adjusts in about 0.100" increments. That is the pitch of the serrated teeth. And it takes about 1 chain link of tension to equal 2 teeth. So the Teeth alow adjustment within a chain link. Works good.

So Here see this. For every 0.100" offset you will get about 1.5 degrees of head tilt. sooo if you make up a series of washers offset by 0.100" in a progression you keep chainging washers to get more tilt. After you go much more then 5 offsets (1/2") you will be getting close to the edge of the washer. While not as elegant as a spining washer, it is a sound adjustment, just a lot of washers. By the way, Now I know why Reese gave up on the square washer tilt... the serrated teeth are the cream of the crop in fine adjustment

Unless you have a mill it is going to be difficult to get exactly 0.100. BUT layout with a scale as close as you can. Some scales are in 0.1" increments and make the layout easier. Key is BOTH washers in that size need to be the same to not twist the head.

See here for the washers. If needed you can go to no 5 of 1/2" offset.


And here is the head tilt. This is zero tilt, on center and 0.100" shifted or 1.5 deg tilt


I did not do them all but here is 0.200 and 0.400"


And as fyi, I did find this one pic in my bag of tricks from a camping bud I helped with his hitch. This is what your looked like with all the parts.


You can almost skip making the 0 set as we would start setting WD at least on the 0.100" set. Depending on reciever slop it might eat 2 to 3 degrees of tilt all on it's own.

OH and 1 other thing, I'm assuming you are using Kitty's 1,200# WD bars. Those are 1 1/8" trunnion lugs. Reese years ago made 7/8" trunnion lugs. Have you tried to see if the 1 1/8" lug WD bars actually fit in your hitch head? Can't tell by the pictures.

And do you have a pic of the weigth sticker in the camper yet? If so what is the UVW (Unloaded Vechile Weight) of the T320SR?

Is the goal here to have 2 trucks set up to pull the camper? Thus 2 hitch heads adjusted on 2 shanks dialed in per truck, then use the DC and WD bars on both?

More on Monday

John
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Gary
OH and 1 other thing, I'm assuming you are using Kitty's 1,200# WD bars. Those are 1 1/8" trunnion lugs. Reese years ago made 7/8" trunnion lugs. Have you tried to see if the 1 1/8" lug WD bars actually fit in your hitch head? Can't tell by the pictures.
I will check them, to make sure...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
And do you have a pic of the weigth sticker in the camper yet? If so what is the UVW (Unloaded Vechile Weight) of the T320SR?
I believe it is around 6380, but I'm not 100% sure.. I only remember the GTW being 10,000.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Is the goal here to have 2 trucks set up to pull the camper? Thus 2 hitch heads adjusted on 2 shanks dialed in per truck, then use the DC and WD bars on both?

More on Monday

John
That is the whole idea... I do not want to have to re-adjust her setup each time we switch trucks.

Thank you for all this info! After seeing that pic, I may have to make some squares and drill them that way!
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:49 PM   #18
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Gary

OK now we know the end goal. 1 camper, 2 trucks, 2 different receivers, 2 different hitch heads, 1 DC and 1 set of 1,200# WD bars. Goal is to set the hitch head to match truck for WD and to work with the camper.

Your goal is obtainable, however there may be 1 snafu. This may be a picture anomaly or the snafu is a Reese change in hitch heads creating a DC setting issue over the years between old and new versions.

This is what I see, you tell me where this goes wrong.

Here is Kitty's newer HP hitch head next to your older Reese std trunnion bar head. There looks like a distance change from the lower pivot bolt to the lower trunnion.


While that distance may be different, it in itself may not be a problem. However this one will be. The distance from center of tow ball to the center of a trunnion bar head locked up in the head.


I use the wording locked up as the lower pocket of the head is larger then the trunnion. When you lift on the rear of the WD bars, the trunnion lug locks up in the hitch head and creates a centerline between the tow ball and the trunnion lugs.

Here is the Reese Trunnion WD bars like Kitty has, only these are my 1,200# bars


And here you can see what I’m talking about. On the HP head the WD bar center to the tow ball is about 1”. (This pic is off my T2499, not the T310SR)


OK so why is this important that the 2 hitch heads have that same 1” tow ball to trunnion bar lug distance?

Well it is in the DC. You can adjust the DC for either hitch head. However if the 2 are to be interchangeable the distance from the tow ball to the V notch in the WD bar needs to be the same or else the DC will not be centered between the 2 hitch heads. You can dial one in perfect but it will not match to the next one if the distance is off. There are a few other relationships that change as well, but they may or may not affect you.

Let’s take Kittys F350 and the T320SR. I am pretty sure your T320SR ball height and my T310SR are the same when the TT is level or very close to it as the camper frames I’m pretty sure are the same. Except Kitty's is longer...... My TT is 23 3/4" top of frame to ground when the TT is level. That is the target, tow level or slight nose down as opposed to nose up when all hitched up and ready to roll.

See here


Now on Kittys truck adjust the hitch shank and head until you are about 1” above that on her 1 ton suspension. On your 3/4 ton it might be 1 1/4” to 1 1/2”


The top of frame and top inside of ball coupler are pretty close on these TT’s. So you can see in the yard if you need to flip the shank up or down to get the ball height to start out with. You have the standard Reese shank and Kitty has the 6” drop shank. So this is 23 3/4” +1” = 24 3/4” to top of ball in truck, unhitched. This is a starting place. Actually since Kitty’s and I have the same truck, same hitch it would look like this when I was on the Ford receiver. This was with a 1,200# loaded tongue. Now bed weight may change what hole in the shank we use but the TT should still end up clsoe to level. In my case I'm actually slight nose down.


This one shows my point best


You will use 6 links under tension, hi rise tow ball and then tilt the hitch head to get the WD on the truck. You might be able to use 7 links under tension, but the hitch head will be tilted more and you “might” experience uncoupling issues like I did on this same TT with my Suburban. While I had gobs of DC clearance, I could not unhook the darn thing the head was tilted back too far when on unlevel ground.

Now again the issue in the DC between the 2 heads. With the WD set the V in the WD bar is determined by where the hitch head put the end of the V notch that fits on the lobe of the DC. This might be a snafu between the old head and the new HP head if the trunnion lug to tow ball center is different. While each can be dialed in perfect by adjusting the DC, they may not be interchangeable without DC adjustment. Which once dialed in, you really do not want to have to go thru the re-adjustment drive test every campout you change trucks.

Since you only paid I think $100 for the new shank, the old head your not out any money. I think he gave you the head as the new shank is a $100 shank…. Worst case, well you have to buy a new HP hitch head.

And please post pics when all done so we too can learn from your setup. Each one, we learn something on.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:17 PM   #19
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Ok John,
I had to see where the differences actually were, between her hitch head and mine. We measured them both, while in the receiver on my truck.

My head:


Her head:


Both hitches side by side:


Both side by side, but closer:


When looking at where the bars go, the only visible difference was that where the bars actually fit were closer to the back on mine.. If that makes sense..
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:49 PM   #20
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Gray,

H’mm good hunting.

I’ll make 1 prediction, you need to raise your hitch head 1 hole. Right now it looks like ball height is 23 2/4” no TT. Going up 1 hole will allow for rear truck squat. That is if the T320SR is like mine T310SR and a 23 ¾” ground to frame level height



Now here is this an optical illusion or real?


Is Kitty’s WD bar further back to the TT when the tow ball on both are in line?

It look like the tips of the WD might be longer but this is a forging and might be. The main importance is the V notch line up. Now caution, 2 WD bars may have the V in a slightly different place. Mine do. Again they are forged not machined and you adjust the DC to compensate. So they may not line up the way you are doing this mock up.

BUT you can try this. You sparked this idea.

Find a piece of pipe, like 2” or so. 1 ½ would work too. Hold it rigid to the ground with blocks or something. This is a cam mock up and a point of reference.

Then take left or right, only use one, WD bar and put it in the left side of you head.

Fit the WD bar to the pipe (cam). Hold it down good. The cam pipe is rigid and not moving.

Gently take out the play on the hitch head trunnion sockets to the WD bar trunnion. This looks just like your pic now. Shank pointing ahead, and only 1 WD in place but the V notch is the reference.

Now use a framing square or level measure from pipe to tow ball OD plumb and level. Square is against pipe. You are measuring the horizontial distance as a reference point. A square to the black top is better as it does not wiggle like some one holding a level. It does not have to be exaclty 90 to the ground, just in the same exact spot 2 times to measure to.

Then using the same WD bar, switch to kittys head and do the same thing to the pipe (cam) reference point.

If from the tow ball to the cam is the same on both heads on the same WD bar you have good odds this will work. If they are different, well the cams will be sloppy on 1 truck and tight on the other.

Tow ball to DC is needs to be the same.

Hope this helps and good luck

John
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