Backing up with sway control? - Page 2

Honda03842 · 07-14-2010, 09:23 AM

My 1550 towed fine without the sway bar but people on the site reccomended it saying it would be nice to have in an emergency so we bought it. It absolutely takes no time to connect, is easy to adjust and provides a little additional control.

Like most RVers we have made one emergency stop, a stop at speed where some pulled across the highway and stopped in front of us blocking both lanes, sort of a movie like crash scene. We did an emergency stop, tires smoking and the trailer behaved like an extension of the tow vehicle. Did the sway bar help? I think so but obviously have no real proof.

Your tow vehicle is bigger and heavier than my CRV so I suspect the 1550 will even be more invisible and should tow fine but I'd still use the sway bar for that one unexpected emergency

nasa42a · 07-14-2010, 11:29 AM

Campit.....

Keeping the transmission out of overdrive is recommended by almost all manufacturers. It helps avoid excessive lugging and/or shifting (the transmission was engineered to deal only with the load of the Tow Vehicle when in overdrive). In turn, this avoids overheating the transmission and shortening its life. Several newer truck models have a dedicated tow/haul setting on the transmission to further improve things.

Frank

Campit · 07-15-2010, 07:17 AM

Thanx for the help guys, I'm going to use the sway bar from now on, After towing my 1550 for 30 miles with my Durango (this was before I turned the over drive off) my check engine light came and is still on, and of course my extended warranty just expired Uurrggghhh!!

Campit · 07-15-2010, 07:27 AM

Oh and I wanted to mention that I have pix of my 1550 click on the community link above to see them

Hematite · 07-15-2010, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Campit

Thanx for the help guys, I'm going to use the sway bar from now on, After towing my 1550 for 30 miles with my Durango (this was before I turned the over drive off) my check engine light came and is still on, and of course my extended warranty just expired Uurrggghhh!!

I just disconnect the battery for an hour and reconnect. Usually, that will reset the check engine light. A lot of times, those lights come on due to an intermittent sensor problem. If the light comes back right away then you'll have to take it to the dealer. Before you disconnect the battery, though, check your owners manual. Some vehicles don't have a problem when the battery is disconnected, some do.

Honda03842 · 07-15-2010, 02:01 PM

I've also been able to disconnect the fuse that supplies the car's computer on our Honda. Sometimes after traveling on a dusty road we'll trip the check engine light and removing the fuse resets it. I subsequentently purchased a plug in device to check engine codes, only $29 at Harbor Freight.

LanCoPA · 09-03-2010, 04:08 PM

Well I got the Reese SC hitch and am pleased with it. I had to get an extra long drop shank though to get the trailer level. I was surprised at that. Didn't think the Durango sat that high, but maybe it is the 1950 that sits low. Anyway, we have towed it a few hundred miles, absolutely love the trailer, and have plans for 2 more trips this month and next.

**JohnB** · 09-03-2010, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LanCoPA

Well I got the Reese SC hitch and am pleased with it. I had to get an extra long drop shank though to get the trailer level. I was surprised at that. Didn't think the Durango sat that high, but maybe it is the 1950 that sits low. Anyway, we have towed it a few hundred miles, absolutely love the trailer, and have plans for 2 more trips this month and next.

Roy that's Great!!!! Good for you. Yes, Sunline has low riders and they made them that on purpose to tow easier, less wind drag.

Glad things worked out for you.

John

**JohnB** · 09-04-2010, 02:22 PM

Move Que Towing discussion to new post see here

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ons-11735.html

quaddriver · 09-14-2010, 09:57 AM

Dunno if all the answers are out yet...

but the word sway is sort of a misnomer.

its not that the trailer itself starts to sway side to side (which is actually "whipstocking") but rather with a light tongue weight - a needed evil - the moment of rotation is moved back over the trailer axles. Therefore there is nothing to keep the rig bending at the hitch point - since the tire sidewalls can flex on both trailer and 'tractor' a few inches of free lateral movement can get started and it not corrected by a pull thru or hitting the 'charlie bar' can actually induce the whipstocking, which is exacerbated on a turn or downhill, to the point that the neutrally balanced trailer can pull the rear end of the tractor around and no good comes from that.

If you have a 5th wheel hitch - never a problem. Well ok, a 5th wheel on an S10 is a problem....

if you have a 'big truck' (i.e. one with far beefier springs and rear axle than the tongue weight demands then some forego the w/d hitch and keep the moment forward (plus loading the rear tractor wheels is always a good idea)

I would always match the w/d trunion bars to the expected load. the lb rating is simply how many lbs will pull a pair of bars a certain distance from straight. since you want the hitch head to be perfectly vertical when in a neutral situation you need to 'drop links' in the chain to get the frame level and the head vertical. if you can do this with 550's (my small ez lift bars) then go with the smallest you can. I use my beavertail for a small T-L-B and never had to go more than 750's. 1200's...well...I am of the opinion, and being a professional installer, if you need 1200lb bars this is too heavy for the crud passing for vehicle frames and hitches nowadays. (plus the force behind taking off a 1200lb bar improperly will imbed your cheater to china....feet in the way be danged)

anyways, moving on to sway control, as mentioned (albeit differently) this resists the lateral movement from having an aggressive/too aggressive w/d hitch setup and the corresponding rotational moments. a good 'patch' to an unintended consequence, but as pointed out, jack-backing, or even too tight of a right turn can bend em. at the least you need to loosen the tension, as a precaution remove the pins. once bent, even the slightest, its junk forever.

I know, I ramble TMI but I see too many rigs that are "near death experiences" and by the time a lot of them get in my driveway, stuff is broken.