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Old 04-02-2012, 07:43 PM   #1
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2000 T-2753 and a 2011 Durango AWD 5.7L

Hello all, per the advice of another member I am going to post as much info as possible to determine if I am heading down the right road with this combo...

TV
2011 Dodge Durango 5.7L AWD
Trailer tow group IV
Class IV hitch reciever
Rear load leveling suspension
Wheelbase 119"
3.47 gears



TT
2000 Sunline Solaris T-2753
Weighed last week empty (no water) at 5200 lbs.



I took some measurements at the wheel wells of the TV both loaded and unloaded and then with the bars hooked up and this is what I got. (Measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well).

Unloaded
front 32" rear 34-1/2"

Loaded without bars hooked up
front 33" rear 32-1/2"

Loaded with bars hooked up
front 32-1/4" rear 33-1/4"

In the owners manual it list the following info for my model Durango.

Gross combined wt. rating (GCWR) 13,100 lbs.

Frontal area (no idea what this means) 60 sq. ft.

Maximum gross trailer weight (GTW) 7,400 lbs.

Maximum trailer tongue weight 720 lbs. (Then there is a note saying the following).
NOTE* The trailer tongue weight must be considered as part of the combined weight of occupents and cargo, and should never exceed the weight referenced on the tire and loading information placard. The addition of passengers and cargo may require reducing trailer tongue load and gross trailer weight (GTW). Redistributing cargo (to the trailer) may be necessary to avoid exceeding Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of 3,900 lbs.

Also found these pieces of info online.


Maximum Trailer Weight = GCWR - Curb Wt. with hitch - 300 lbs. (allowance for driver and passenger) and must be decreased by the
weight of optional equipment, cargo and additional passengers. Maximum trailer weights shown are rounded to the nearest 50 lbs. Tongue
weight should be 10-15% of loaded trailer weight but may not cause vehicle to exceed GVWR or GAWR. Load equalizing hitch
recommended for trailers over 2,000 pounds.

GVWR 7,100 lbs. Curb weight 5,330 lbs. Payload 1,430 lbs.



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Old 04-02-2012, 08:52 PM   #2
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Pics below.


As she sits all hooked up.



Hitch set up.



Close up of hitch.

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Old 04-02-2012, 09:05 PM   #3
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Edit time timed out on me to add to the first post but here is some more info...

From inside the door jamb of the TV
GAWR front 3200 lbs.
GAWR rear 3900 lbs.
GVWR 7100 lbs.
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:35 PM   #4
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Are those 550# WD bars? If they are, I could tell by the green label. That won't be enough for the tongue weight of your trailer...they are 550 total, not each.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9461.2 (as of 10/01/16)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:50 PM   #5
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Yes, they say 550 on them... This is the reason I created this thread, to lead me in the right direction! Can I buy larger capacity bars only and use the existing hitch?
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakediddy View Post
Yes, they say 550 on them... This is the reason I created this thread, to lead me in the right direction! Can I buy larger capacity bars only and use the existing hitch?
With this setup, yes. You can go up to 1000# bars and stay with the round bar style, which should cover you for any non-slide trailer or a small slide trailer. They have a 750#, which would probably be sufficient for you.

I believe the Reese and Draw Tite round bars are the same end style since they are made by the same company now, but JohnB probably knows for certain. Just go deviate to any other brand, you don't want the bar falling out.

Also make sure the little lock pin functions correctly and isn't sticking at all.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9461.2 (as of 10/01/16)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:10 PM   #7
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"If" these are the right ones, would this be a good deal? Weight distribution bars 1000 lb rating
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:51 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
Also make sure the little lock pin functions correctly and isn't sticking at all.
Speaking of that, can you buy those as replacement parts? One was missing and I had to fabricate my own out of a drill bit and a dremel tool!
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Old 04-03-2012, 12:53 AM   #9
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With your dry tongue weight at 605, there's a very good chance you could grow that by 100-150#, then maxing out your bars. I mean, the 750s would be sufficient for the job because you'd probably always be under that limit.

However, since the 1000s are a half hour away and fairly cheap (might even be able to get a better deal too), it probably isn't a bad idea to go that route. It would certainly be cheaper than new bars.

Just for kicks and giggles though, you may want to stop in at a local trailer/RV dealer and see if they have any used hitch equipment. Many dealers don't want the liability of stocking any of this, where others love it. Sometimes they do this very thing, if someone buys a bigger trailer, they do a trade in on the old bars against a new set if they can and the bars aren't in too bad of shape.

Yes, a dealer by you should carry a rebuild kit for the Draw Tite round bar hitch head. If they don't, hopefully they can order it. I forget what all comes in the kit, but it has the pins, new springs, and maybe new bar chains too. I forget exactly. My local dealer, General RV in Wixom, MI, carries a rebuild kit like this (just a little plastic bag of parts), but they are a big dealer and I wouldn't be surprised if they made these kits up themselves.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9461.2 (as of 10/01/16)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:19 AM   #10
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I sold my 1999 T-2570 to a guy locally who pulled it with a mid 2000's Durango... the old body style.

I saw him a couple months later and he had traded it for a pickup. He said pulling with the Durango was a major white-knuckle experience at any speeds over 50mph. So, he traveled on back roads for a while, till he could upgrade.

To be honest I don't know much about the new Durangos, except it's supposed to be a direct competitor to my 2011 GMC Acadia. I pulled a 20' boat all last summer with the Acadia, but not sure I'd pull a TT with it.

Anyway, at least you are doing all the proper due diligence. Most people just trust a salesman. Be careful, stay slow, and have fun!
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:26 AM   #11
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there is no doubt the durangos powertrain can handle the load, the suspension and wheel base is another question, ive never driven the new ones, but the old ones were tough, and loaded up with the bars she looks nice and level. so??? id rather be in a 1500 or 2500 but im sure its dooable. as for the weight distribution, i have no clue, i hitch my 20 foot sunline up to my 1500 ram, plug it in and throw on the chains and go, ive towed up to 27 footers with my truck, no w/d, no sway, and never missed it except on a windy day.
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:58 AM   #12
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I bet the new Durangos and the old Durangos are completely different beasts. I know the old one had such long leaf springs that it made for a nice cushy ride, but towing with it was awful. Is this a coil over rear end?
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9461.2 (as of 10/01/16)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:42 AM   #13
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the new rigs look low and more comfort oriented to me, the old rigs at simulated the looks of a truck to me, but if anything judging by their looks, they were probably built on a dodge dakota frame or something similar.

the 2011 durango has independent front and rear suspension. it also features load leveling rear shocks. These shocks mechanically pump up when the vehicle has added rear payload. When the payload is initially added the car will squat like standard suspension, but as the shock is stroked (during normal driving), the gas pressure will increase until the shock reaches the level design height (Included in the trailer tow package).

yes it is coil
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:38 PM   #14
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When John B. measured the tongue weight of our 2753 at Buttonwood one year it was 750#, and that was without water in the tanks. And we don't really load up our trailer as heavy as alot of people. So, I don't think you can go by the published tongue weights.
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