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Old 08-14-2018, 03:24 PM   #21
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H’mm. Have you tried the furnace on a long continues burn? Set the temp up to allow it to run and try and reach it. It may cycle the burner but it should not shut down on flame fault.

The furnace uses more gas the the water heater. If you do not yet have a gas gage or manometer, the furnace test may help rule out or in in the tank regulator.

Low gas pressure would cause what you are describing. Doing the regulator test I pointed you to before along with a leak test is a good thing to do on any used camper annually.

Let us know how it goes
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Old 08-14-2018, 05:59 PM   #22
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Unfortunately our heater is currently inoperable as I removed the heater to clean dead mice and a snake skin from the heater.

During the removal process, I had to snip a few electrical wires and I have not had the chance to install knife splices yet. Also had to discard all the heater ducts as they were full of dead mice debris.

Thinking through a gas problem doesn’t add up. When the water heater finally does light, it heats the water just fine. I would think if it were a gas pressure problem, it would be a continuous problem not an intermittent problem.

At this point, I’m leaning towards a circuit board problem.
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:57 PM   #23
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Your furnace issues, argggggg....

You are for sure getting the advanced camper troubleshooting course.... There is good out of all this, your really learning how a camper works. I have always said, one learns a lot more when things do not work right all the time... just that the same problem hopefully is not repeating.

To the water heater problem, tell us more about the attributes of the problem.

Your latest comments on when it does light, it burns just fine. Are you saying it will burn correct for about 20 minutes and then shut down at the water is hot and temp satisfied?

And the issues only occurs when you are trying to light the burner?

If so expand on what it does and does not do when it tries to light. Try and go through all the steps when it wants to try and light.

I agree a gas supply problem does not normally burn 20 minutes straight just fine and the next time mess up. Not to say you do not have a combo problem but there may be more to this then low gas pressure.

Try and tell us about the clicks the ignition system makes and the clunks the gas valve makes. The ignition should snap like once per second non stop from the time the board sends signal to light. The gas valve should go clunk that it is on and open. After a time period of no flame sense feed back the entire trial for ignition shuts down, ignition stops and gas valve will clunk closed. Then it waits for the unburied gas to clear and tries again. After 3 tries of the sequence and no light , it shuts down on safety and will turn on the fault light. And not try again until reset.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:03 PM   #24
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Your furnace issues, argggggg....

You are for sure getting the advanced camper troubleshooting course.... There is good out of all this, your really learning how a camper works. I have always said, one learns a lot more when things do not work right all the time... just that the same problem hopefully is not repeating.

To the water heater problem, tell us more about the attributes of the problem.

Your latest comments on when it does light, it burns just fine. Are you saying it will burn correct for about 20 minutes and then shut down as the water is hot and temp satisfied?

And the issues only occurs when you are trying to light the burner?

If so expand on what it does and does not do when it tries to light. Try and go through all the steps when it wants to try and light.

I agree a gas supply problem does not normally burn 20 minutes straight just fine and the next time mess up. Not to say you do not have a combo problem but there may be more to this then low gas pressure.

Try and tell us about the clicks the ignition system makes and the clunks the gas valve makes. The ignition should snap like once per second non stop from the time the board sends signal to light. The gas valve should go clunk that it is on and open. After a time period of no flame sense feed back the entire trial for ignition shuts down, ignition stops and gas valve will clunk closed. Then it waits for the unburied gas to clear and tries again. After 3 tries of the sequence and no light , it shuts down on safety and will turn on the fault light. And not try again until reset.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:34 PM   #25
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[/QUOTE]Are you saying it will burn correct for about 20 minutes and then shut down at the water is hot and temp satisfied?[/QUOTE]

Yes, when it lights, it will burn for 20 minutes or so, then shut off when the water temp is satisfied.

The igniter clicks and has a spark every time. I'm not 100% sure if the newly installed gas valve goes "clunk". I will have to verify that the gas valve selionoid is operating when it should.

Being that it's a new gas valve, I would assume the circuit board tells the selionoid when to open?

I have found on another forum that folks with the same symptoms with their Atwood H2O heaters, replaced the circuit board and it fixed the problem.

I agree about learning the maintaince ropes, and normally would'nt care as much, except along with our Idaho to Pennsylvania relocation, our funds are currently streched and thus throwing $ into ongoing maintenance is eating us alive.

After all, living in the camp trailer was to save us $ not cost us more than a rental.

Also dropped $100 on a better black/ gray waste water hose as during draining of the black water tank on Saturday the cheap hose we bought from Wallmart cracked at a web seam and spewed sewage.

Oh the joy!
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:13 PM   #26
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My internet connection is real poor so hope this makes it through *

The control board is the brain that controls both the gas valve power and the relay to turn on the electric element. It also controls the flame sense circuit and the fault light

The clunk of the gas valve is the noise the solenoid valve makes whenever it energizes open or drops out and turns the gas off. The clunk is an audible way to know the valve has power or lost power once it was on

Bummer on the sewer hose...

Hope this helps

John
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Old 09-16-2018, 07:48 AM   #27
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My Atwood Water Heater works like new now that I replaced the Water Heaters circuit control board with a Dinosaur Electronics UIB-64.

I paid $109 for the UIB-64 from RV Cooling Unit Warehouse.com . It arrived within 4 days with standard shipping!

Needless to say we're every pleased to have hot water without the hassle of resetting the hot water heater switch over and over to get it to light.
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File Type: jpg DR YIN 64 board.jpg (70.7 KB, 6 views)
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Old 09-16-2018, 05:47 PM   #28
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I'm glad to see this as we have to reset a few times to get things going but then it seems to work flawlessly until we shut off the LP.
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:28 PM   #29
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Thanks for reporting back on the fix. Glad you found the issue.

Thanks

John
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