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Old 01-28-2012, 06:21 PM   #1
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Water pump

Is the pump required when you are hooked to the campground potable water inlet?
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:36 PM   #2
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No, the pump is only needed when you are using the on board fresh water tank. It pumps it up out of the tank and then pressurizes the camper. The city water connection as we call it pressurizes the camper and there is a check valve in the pump so water does not go back through the pump and into the tank.

If it also good idea to have a city water pressure regulator you put in the hose line to the camper as some camp grounds have real high water pressure and can cause leaks. 40 psi water pressure is plenty to work everything in the camper. 60 psi and up can invite leaks. Technically the parts are rated a lot higher just age over time and rubber grommets etc get brittle and the higher pressures create issues.

You can either get a good all brass high flow one from Lowes/Home Depot (about $20 to $25) or they sell restrictor type at the camping stores. The better ones cost more but flow more.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:41 PM   #3
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Thanks so much John. And, the "potable water only" inlet next to the door.. this is like to fill at home from a hose? We'd use the right side inlet for the city water at a campground, correct?
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
You can either get a good all brass high flow one from Lowes/Home Depot (about $20 to $25) or they sell restrictor type at the camping stores. The better ones cost more but flow more.
I took Kitty for a Camping World "Fix" today and saw that they now sell high flow regulators. Other than the higher flow, the only difference I saw was that they regulate to 50-55PSI. We used our fresh water tank when we camped over the New Year's weekend. I will say that I loved showering with the pump a lot better! Much better flow!

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Thanks so much John. And, the "potable water only" inlet next to the door.. this is like to fill at home from a hose? We'd use the right side inlet for the city water at a campground, correct?
That inlet is used to fill the fresh water tank. If you use that inlet, it's best to use your white hose. Regular green/black/red/etc.. hoses aren't designed for drinking water. They leech chemicals into the water. The white hoses are designed for potable drinking water.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:56 PM   #5
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Here is the restrictor type

Water Regulators and Gauges - Lead Free - Product - Camping World

The one I bought at Lowes was similar to this $27 one. Watts regulator I do not see the one I have on line.

The one I bought had NPT pipe fitting ends and this one has copper solder sweat ends. I did have to buy the thread adapters to garden hose thread.

I have used the resistor type too and they work, just some times they can restrict the flow in some CG's. Not all but some. Have one in the box in the camper as I'm sure most of us do. If you go that route try and find one that at least says high flow on the label.

Good luck

John

PS as a point of reference the standard Shurflow water pump in the camper only puts out 2.8 gpm. So a water regulators rated at 3 to 5 gpm is golden unless you pull put all the faucet restrictors like some do. I leave ours in as we boondock and need to be a water mizer.
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:02 PM   #6
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Again, thanks. It is all coming together now.
On e last question from Tom. Do you have a brand volt meter to monitor campground voltage?
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:03 PM   #7
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Specific brand I meant to say.
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:19 PM   #8
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Debbie,

To add to what Gary said, the pressurized city water inlet looks like this.






The city water outlet locations are different on most campers due to the layout. I do not know where yours is but it will look like what I have shown and you can screw a hose right in it.

That is as long as you do not have a factory black tank flush kit. If it has one they there will be 2 of these and one should be labeled tank flush or something like that.

The fresh water tank fill spout is behind a little key lock door, well on the newer campers that is. The older one may just have a screw on cap and no door. With all my camper pics I do not have one of that to show... That location varies by camper floor plan and model year too.

As Gary stated you need the white potable water rated hose. You also need to sanitize the camper water system at least once a year. Even if you are not going to drink from the tank in my opinion. If this is new to you, we have several posts on how to do this. Not hard just takes some time. Plus Sunline had it in the manuals. If you need helps finding this let us know. It is in the FAQ forum too.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
Again, thanks. It is all coming together now.
On e last question from Tom. Do you have a brand volt meter to monitor campground voltage?
This one is common. I have one. You plug it in the wall.

Worldwide Merchandise Company - AC Voltage Meter - D10-170 - Electrical Monitors & Testers - Camping World

I do however have to tweak it with my good volt meter to set it correct.

Another good thing is a wiring checker to make sure the shore line power box is wired right and has a actual ground wire.

Gary has a pig tail setup he uses. Has a pic of it some where on here as I have seen it.

I use one of these.





I check the CG shore line box before I plug in.

You can find these in the hardware store or Lowes/Home Depot
http://www.amazon.com/50542-Receptac...ref=pd_cp_hi_0

Then you need a 120 standard 15 amp adapter to a 30 amp camper plug.

Like this. Walmart sells them about as cheap as anyone.
Coleman Cable 15A to 30A Reverse Adapter

These things are not a mandate for the 1st time you camp, but good to have if you camp often to lower your odds of campground wiring issues.

OH, and this does not have to be the last question. There are at least 200 more you have not thought of yet... Before the days of internet camping clubs it took years to figure all this out or you read a bunch of RV books.

John
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Again, thanks. It is all coming together now.
On e last question from Tom. Do you have a brand volt meter to monitor campground voltage?
The little 3 light thing I think should be mandatory in any RV I have one permanently plugged in to the bath outlet. If you see any faults with the lights do not use the outlet and alert the campground personal. Campers are wired a bit differently then a house to protect you from any shocks provided some one has not messed with the wiring but improperly wired campground wiring can damage things you might plug into your outlets, computers, TVís and the likes. It also lets you know that you have power in the camper often the GFI is tripped at the campground and it keeps you from going nuts wondering why your camper outlets donít work. The little gadget is less then $5 and just about any hardware store has them. If you think you need a meter again hardware stores have them, simple voltmeters run around $30 for a decent one a digital one is best (easy to read) itís a nice thing to have probably more so for low voltage stuff youíll eventually have to deal with in the camper itís self.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:40 PM   #11
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Very informative thread guys!
I have a few Q's as a....neophyte RV'er. I will definitely pick up one of the water regs.
What am I looking for in testing the power provided by the Campground? Other than 120v? Spikes?
AND, I noticed in my first Sea Trial this weekend that my water pump did not cut in when connected to the City Power BEFORE I connected to City water. Doesn't work that way? Pump shot? Possible fuse/breaker prob?
Dead battery? BTW what does the Battery do? I charged it, just because it seemed like the thing to do and will load test it this week.
Thanx for any info that comes from this!
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:31 PM   #12
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In the past I would say it was a good ideal to check voltage at a campground but just about every one has upgraded their systems. The little 3 light checker is probably all you should ever need. You should have a switch some where for the pump it does not automatically start until the switch is on then it will pump water until the pressure rises to a preset point and then shut off. When the water is connected the pump probably will not run because the pressure is high enough even if the switch is on. Check your switch first if it's on then you'll have to start checking fuses.
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