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Old 10-12-2019, 01:32 PM   #21
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Here is a pic of pex.
I want to repeat the question if it is possible the interior moisture could be due to condensation? The underground spring water coming in is always cold then sitting in the metal inlet valve.

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Oh, a PEX connection setup, that may add a new dynamic to this. Any chance of posting a pic of the PEX setup? Try to get as much of the Pex piping routing in the pic.
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Old 10-13-2019, 08:36 AM   #22
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Pretty obvious stain on the plastic. You really need a flexible joint in there somewhere I would be inclined to put the regulator at the end of the horizontal pex and a short run of garden hose to the camper. My next question it can get kind of cold in NC. yes?
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:05 PM   #23
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I'm not sure what to do next here. It does not seem like there is a leak on the interior, unless it is coming from the inside of the inlet.

Externally, it seems like I may need a new setup which is doable. It will need to be wrapped up soon, literally-with freeze prevention, as winter is heading in.

BUT if this moisture is coming from internal condensation from cold spring water, then I'm not seeing a solution yet.
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:07 PM   #24
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It's possible that water was siphoned towards the inlet to make that drip stain, as it has been wrapped from last winter with the leak. So that's not as easy to determine. That's how I discovered all this, I was taking off the old wrapping to replace it.

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Pretty obvious stain on the plastic.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noralee View Post
Here is a pic of pex.
I want to repeat the question if it is possible the interior moisture could be due to condensation? The underground spring water coming in is always cold then sitting in the metal inlet valve.
If you want to rule out condensation, it is not impossible, you can put a piece of piping foam insulation on the inside. It can be slit it to snap over the inside fitting. Then warp the foam with duct tape etc to cover close the split tight. If the metal pipe fittings are insulated, then they will not sweat. They can still leak though.

Like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-...ion/1001277248
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:37 PM   #26
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The rust stain is a tell tail the water is running there.



Did doing dry paper towel leak test help show anything? Inside or outside?

Is this drip all the time outside?
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Old 10-17-2019, 09:16 PM   #27
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John, re rust stain:
It's possible that water was siphoned towards the inlet to make that drip stain, as it has been wrapped from last winter with the leak. So that's not as easy to determine. That's how I discovered all this, I was taking off the old wrapping to replace it.

I didn't do a paper towel test bc it seems very dry on those pipes in the inside. I don't recall about doing it outside.

Yes the drip is constant -since I discovered it. which leads ne to believe also that it is a leak and my condensation.

I noticed dampness inside on the top part of the circular inlet space. I'm not sure at all how water would allow that direction because the sides were dry. So just the top and bottom part have moisture. Coming from the interior inlet itself?

Quote:QUOTE=JohnB;150406]The rust stain is a tell tail the water is running there.


Did doing dry paper towel leak test help show anything? Inside or outside?

Is this drip all the time outside?[/QUOTE]
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Old 10-18-2019, 10:05 AM   #28
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If the drip outside is constant, and still is, have to tried to change the hose washer?

The Pex in the pic looks long enough it should just flex back out of the way far enough to allow the water regulator to move back and then change out the washer.

I agree with Mainah, the connection should have a piece of flex potable water hose at the camper. That and get the water regulator at the upstream side of the hose and not at the camper. Especially if the pex is buried underground coming to the camper. Over time, the ground settles and moves as well as the camper moving up and down and can then pull the pipe down hard, lift it up or on an angle. This movement is small and hard to see, but it's there and can accumulate over time. That excess pipe force at the camper connection can even make a good joint and good washer, leak. Basically, the piping connection is forced on an angle and will not seal off properly.

It is not beyond belief that the water inlet fitting has issues too. But it is a
brass one at least and not the newer all plastic ones. The brass is usually stronger against bending forces from piping, but the seal washer is still expected to fix more than it was ever intended too if the connection is under piping angular connection issues.

To the condensation issue, the foam pipe insulation used both inside and outside should help stop the sweating if that is the problem. The amount of condensation should change over the course of the day. When your not using more fresh water for several hours, water stands still in the pipe, the sweat should slow down some as the water warms up inside the pipe. When water flows in new cold cold, it will can sweat worse as the pipe gets colder. And if there is an active water leak all the time, the water temp is staying cold by the leakf letting new water come in even if you are not using water in the camper.

To the bored hole in the camper wood being wet top and bottom and not the sides. H'mm, the top might be from a caulking sealant leak on the white water inlet flange. It looks like there is some kind of caulk on it, is there any cracked caulking to the siding? Rain then can get in through the crack.

Water does not jump up hill unless it is being pressure pushed/squirted. It can wick up hill, but the white metal flange does not really support wicking up hill like a piece of wood or cardboard would touching the brass piping if the pipe was wet.

The bottom has more answers. Gravity carries a weeking water drop down and not touch sides as they are too far away from a gravity leak. Water leaking outside the camper may find it's way past the white metal plate of the inlet hose flange along the brass pipe and then fall down on the wood and look like condensation sweat.

Just throwing out ideas to help you look closer and maybe see something. Bottomline, the outside drip needs to get stopped soon and see if the inside will dry up.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:38 PM   #29
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John, I am thinking thru your different ideas. When I thought before reaching out to forum that the interior moisture was being siphoned from the external leak and winterizing wrap, I out some clear caulk around the base of the inlet. So I will remove that caulk this weekend to maybe learn something new.

My other thought tho is that there must be a significant issue with this inlet valve for the leak to be steady out of the bottom camper trim like it is (this is the other leak than the one from the pressure regulator). I'm needing time to properly think through these urgent issues.

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Just throwing out ideas to help you look closer and maybe see something. Bottomline, the outside drip needs to get stopped soon and see if the inside will dry up.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:00 AM   #30
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To cure any problem you have to be methodical. You know your fittings are leaking fix them first and see what happens. Once that is eliminated it may turn out to be the entire issue. Water will follow a pipe down hill, if it's dripping from the inlet fittings it is very possible it's following the pipe inside and wetting the wall. With the water stationary it is not likely to condensate due to the inside temp of the camper and the higher temp of the water in the pipe but once the cold water flows then yes it is possible but most likely a heated camper has a low enough humidity that it won't happen anyway.
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:26 PM   #31
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*New info*
I was cleaning something and discovered what looks like a leak from the water heater, which is next to the water inlet. I have to inspect it more with my cleaning done and dried. But, the water did look like it had a path to the area below, where I discovered the exterior dripping.

How does one even begin to inspect the water heater since nothing is visible?!

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If the drip outside is constant, and still is, have to tried to change the hose washer?

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Old 10-29-2019, 04:40 PM   #32
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Basically you can't. If the floor is wet around it it's leaking they rot out on the very bottom. It is not unusual. Unfortunately if there is not a bypass system involved there is no way to shut it off without loosing water on everything else.
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:57 PM   #33
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It can be drained I know that. But hoping there's another way to explore without having to remove it.

Is it a normal thing for bottom to rot out in 6-7 years?

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Basically you can't. If the floor is wet around it it's leaking they rot out on the very bottom. It is not unusual. Unfortunately if there is not a bypass system involved there is no way to shut it off without loosing water on everything else.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:05 PM   #34
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Yes it can. A lot depends on local water chemistry. Unfortunately draining the tank does not remove the stuff on the bottom, the drain is above the bottom of the tank. I would not mind crawling under the camper to drain the tank if the drain was on the bottom. They do make a wand you can attach to a water hose to flush out the tank how effective that is I'm not sure.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:53 PM   #35
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It can be drained I know that. But hoping there's another way to explore without having to remove it.

Is it a normal thing for bottom to rot out in 6-7 years?
6 or 7 years seems a bit quick to rot out, but I found this link. Check out who your manufacturer is and if you have an Anode rode. This may apply to your situation.

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/...-water-heater/
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Old 10-29-2019, 07:13 PM   #36
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I have an Atwood so no rod. I'm not sure if it's suggesting I get one at this point.

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6 or 7 years seems a bit quick to rot out, but I found this link. Check out who your manufacturer is and if you have an Anode rode. This may apply to your situation.

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/...-water-heater/
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:28 PM   #37
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Quote:
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I have an Atwood so no rod. I'm not sure if it's suggesting I get one at this point.
The second paragraph in the linked article on, the need for an anode summed it up.
Quote:
If you have a Suburban water heater, the tank is porcelain-lined steel and requires an anode rod to prevent corrosion of the steel tank. If you have an Atwood water heater, your water heater tank is aluminum and does not require one.
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:50 PM   #38
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Quote:
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Is it a normal thing for bottom to rot out in 6-7 years?
Do you leave your water heater turned on all the time?

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It can be drained I know that. But hoping there's another way to explore without having to remove it.
A pressure decay leak test is one method to help sort out a leak in your water system.

This involves screwing a water pressure gage into the water heater drain plug hole, then charging the camper with water pressure or compressed air up to 50psi. Seal off the incoming water/air. Observe the gage at the start of the test, then after every 10 to 15 minute interval. If the pressure gage keeps slowly bleeding off the pressure to a low number, then there is a leak in the system somewhere.
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:12 AM   #39
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The only possible way to check without removing it it would be to drain it dry the floor area with a fan etc. and refill it as it would be in use. The Anode rod is a add on I don't believe they came with one. A pressure test might show some thing but the problem there is the rest of the system it has to be tight or it will slew the test. There are also two pipe fittings in the tank, cold water in hot out usually they are to some extent visible. The bottom of the tank is about as close to the floor as it can get.
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Old 10-30-2019, 10:36 AM   #40
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Yes, water heater on unless I leave town.

Was the article staying that the wand thing wasn't required but good as an add on at this point?

Not sure what you mean by charging the camper up.


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Do you leave your water heater turned on all the time?



A pressure decay leak test is one method to help sort out a leak in your water system.

This involves screwing a water pressure gage into the water heater drain plug hole, then charging the camper with water pressure or compressed air up to 50psi. Seal off the incoming water/air. Observe the gage at the start of the test, then after every 10 to 15 minute interval. If the pressure gage keeps slowly bleeding off the pressure to a low number, then there is a leak in the system somewhere.
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