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Old 07-12-2018, 04:43 PM   #21
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Wound up pulling the bed out and removing supports etc...
This is why I want to add a cargo hatch behind the wheel on that side..bad location??

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Old 07-12-2018, 06:25 PM   #22
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Things are back in.place will have to check it all tomorrow...

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Old 07-12-2018, 08:24 PM   #23
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Your bed and water heater setup is just like my T1950 which at the moment is in a bunch of pieces...

It looks like you have it all piped up. Great!!

To your question on a cargo hole "directly" behind the rear axle to get into that space. At first my mind raced to a water issue if towing in the rain. But the more I thought on this, I happen to have exactly what you are wanting to do with my T2475 that Sunline put in. So maybe my preconceived thoughts are not valid.

Here is my T1950 in the disassembly process which mimics your pics.

A side view of the camper on the outside


Under the bed. The water heater is already out in these pics.




And now the T2475... The water heater is in the back like yours and my T1950 and a cargo hole door is behind the wheel well. It is storage space in that location right behind the rear axle.


I must say that cargo door makes it real easy to get to the water heater bypass verses crawling under the bed.

Looking at this, I would say you could add a cargo door there. If there is water issue concerns consider adding mud flaps on the camper. I have done this and they worked well. Just keep the flap a somewhat good distance from the wheel so flying road water can actually hit the flap and fly off. See here for how I added them. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ics-13097.html

They have been working great ever since I put them on in 2011.

Hope this helps

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Old 07-12-2018, 08:53 PM   #24
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Haha my mind went to water gushing in too. However, I think if you are careful with the using the door- aka not dragging hitch stuff through it that could cause the lip to bend and seal to tear, it should be ok. A door in that location is just especially important to have a good seal.

My 2653 has a door just behind the tires on the ODS.

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Old 07-12-2018, 09:10 PM   #25
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Well, their are 2 Sunline floor plans with the cargo hole right behind the wheel well...

H'mm I may think about this cargo hole, pump reset for the T1950 when I get back to working it. I have the same problem you do on your Advancer just I have not yet camped in the T1950 to realize the problem. Thanks for figuring out the issue and suggesting a fix!
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:22 PM   #26
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Just doing my job.. LOL..as a mechanical designer my job is to find solutions to problems!
I was just so frustrated trying to reach anything and the silly hole over the water heater under the mattress makes winterizing a pain and easy to forget or put off until it is too late!
I contacted someone on here that is parting out a trailer to see if he has suitably sized hatch

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Old 07-12-2018, 09:28 PM   #27
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If they do not have the right size cargo door, the RV salvage places in Elkhart have them buy the hundreds. If you need to go that route, let us know I will dig up the addresses. Bontrager's and Johnson's RV surplus are 2 of the names.
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Old 07-13-2018, 04:43 AM   #28
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Thanks!
Elkhart is kind of Mecxa of RV isn't it?
My late wife's granddad used to buy his RV building supplies there.

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Old 07-14-2018, 05:33 PM   #29
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Yes, Elkhart IN is the RV capital of the US. While not all RV's are made there, a large percentage of them are and many of the supporting industries are near by.
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Old 07-14-2018, 08:10 PM   #30
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Ok these two valves are leaking.. the ones coming out of the back of the water heater...I am going to pull them and replace..
Any suggestions as to best parts,/valves to use and how to install?
Good new is that the tank is not leaking at all!

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Old 07-14-2018, 08:45 PM   #31
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Your heater








These 2 valves are made by Flair-It. They have been reliable in the past from my experience. Maybe with all the taking out of the tank etc something was upset with them? Where is the leak, at the pipe nut or at the valve stem? At the pipe nut they may be loose OR the nut is cracked. I have seen a cracked nut before.

These guys https://flairit.com/

The water heater bypass 3 way valves show up on PDF page 15 or catalog page 13 of their parts catalog http://leggettsupply.wpengine.com/wp...022218-web.pdf

Your looks like it has 1/2" NPT thread on the one end and then 1/2" pex on the other 2 connections. They sell these, just noting as they are different then the ones some of the newer campers use that are 1/2" pex on all 3 connections. They also sell these, just a different part number.

The one with the 1/2" NPT and 2, 1/2" Pex connections is PN 16912 See here on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16912-P...flair+it+16912

I myself would replace with the same Flair it fittings. Finding that 3 way valve in another brand that is any better is "hunt". That said, if someone finds something better, please post. Always open to options.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:52 AM   #32
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Looks like the pictures I tried to attach last time didn't attach!

John are you thinking I need to replace those draining petcock 3 ways on the floor?

Its the two on the tank that are needing replacement and after much silicone and silicone self fusing repair tape I could only slow the leaks down so I think they may have been compromised during the freezing (we hit -30 in the winter) in a way I could not see or check without water at full pressure. I did a quick air pressure test but seemed to be holding reasonably well, obviously not..*

I am considering the Camco 35963 RV 12" Supreme Permanent By-Pass Kit for 10 Gallon Tank < https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...K6Y9EEQB&psc=1*> it looks pretty beefy to me..*

Those drain valves were an unexpected surprise to me I didn't know what they were until water was exiting out to the ground!

When we parked the trailer in storage last night we removed the mattress etc and took off all the platform plywood/OSB so it would dry down and I will have better access when the supplies come in.

Not going out for a couple weeks so this time I have a little longer to get it right!

Thanks for all your help!



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Old 07-16-2018, 08:06 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Draughty View Post
Looks like the pictures I tried to attach last time didn't attach!

John are you thinking I need to replace those draining petcock 3 ways on the floor?
Hi,

I knew you were talking about the 2 on the tank and those are what I linked.

These, https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16912-P...flair+it+16912

1/2" NPT to screw into the tank and then 2, Fair-it connections. This is a 90 degree turn valve

There are 2 other 3 way valves are the low point drain valves on the floor but that is a different Flair-it part number. And the low point 3 way valve drains differently then the water heater 3 way valve. The low point 3 way valve is a 180 degree turn valve with a different valve center.

The Camco ones, the valves are good I have used them on antifreeze kits at the water pump. You will need to adapt back to Pex on the female end of the valve. So you need 2 more fittings for that.

The hose they add, that I question. I had a fellow Sunline friend buy one of them and the hose blew apart after a few weeks. They came to a Sunline M & G with us and I had enough stashed fittings in my stuff to seal the dike for the weekend. I was shocked as he was, the hose blew up like a balloon and let go. That was now about 3 maybe 4 years ago. I would hope Camco fixed that issue.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:46 AM   #34
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OK, thanks..you generally know what I am talking about even when I don't so I am not sure why I even questioned that!
Odd with that hose as it appears to be quite strong!
Yes, I will have to adapt the Camco setup. I do have the adapters from the accumulator I can use as well but they appear to need the semi-clear Nylon Braided hose with hose clamps?
Sorry for all the questions I figure my ignorance may be shared by later viewers of this thread!
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Old 07-16-2018, 10:29 AM   #35
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The only heads up on the accumulator fittings. They look like barbed fittings that go with some form of flexing tube and like you said, worm drive or other hose clamp. I would caution the setup or make darn sure the fittings can handle 150PSI. The relief valve on the heater will trip at 150 psi. When the water heater gets water logged(no air cushion left) thermal expansion can make the safety relief weep as the pressure is that high... Your expansion tank will help this issue, but a blown off hose is not fun...

Ideally you can get PEX, Flair-It or shark bite fittings to adapt back into the PEX. Road vibration is also thrown in this fitting mix. While we have to have screw on fittings, faucets etc, anything that does not have a screw something in it does not loosen.... Every now and then the faucet connections can drip. It's like every few years go check all for tightness.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-16-2018, 10:39 AM   #36
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Yes it does and it all makes sense..the PEX is a easy to use and somewhat flexible and I know worm drive clamps from many years of mechanical work.
I haven't taken the plunge to get a PEX crimper yet but starting to think this might be a good investment.
Shark bites are great but get pricey when using a lot of them!

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Old 07-16-2018, 11:15 AM   #37
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I have that kit for the 6 gallon tank. I did not know about the possible hose issue. I have only used the system twice but so far so good.
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Old 07-16-2018, 05:32 PM   #38
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Shark bite style joints are available in plastic a whole lot cheaper.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:48 AM   #39
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As an update I am replacing the bypass valve and doing some re-plumbing next week before our next weekend trip. Hoping that is the final shakedown cruise!
I did get the brass Camco set but I also am getting a pex crimper as they are much less expensive than a few years back and I use enough shark bites in a year to pay for the tool now!
That crimper will stay with the trailer during summer months to be available if needed!
I was also able to locate a used Sunline hatch and am planning to install that before summers end! Will be great to have easy access to the water system and I am hoping to add a removable shelf or something so I can store some items above the floor mounted plumbing!
Also if I have time I will be placing aluminum flashing as a 'pan' under the system to prevent future soaking from any possible leaks!
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:04 PM   #40
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Yes, once your past the PEX crimper the rest is very economical in most cases.

I picked up the big Zurn kit several years ago on clearance at Lowes. Seems they where not selling. My new home now is all PEX... between my camper habit, our house and my son's place, it gets used often annually.

When you get your door setup done, post some pics. You can save me a lot of thinking... when I get to that stage on my T1950.
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