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Old 01-27-2010, 11:08 AM   #1
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Water heater, repair or replace?

Having checked on things a bit more, I see I have a G3A6 water heater, and I noticed that I can get a replacement tank for it.

Does anyone know what's involved with installing one?
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:18 AM   #2
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I'm not sure what's involved with actually installing it on the heater, but I have heard that you'll have to take the unit out of the sidewall (and disconnect whatever still is, like LP) in order to do so. It can't be done inside the coach while still mounted.

Jon
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:07 PM   #3
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Gary removed the tank from the WH that we took out of the 299. The tank was cracked, and we toyed with the idea of a repair, but then opted for getting a new heater. BUT, Gary wanted to "Find Out" how the tank came apart from the flange piece. WELL, lets just say, it's a good thing we ordered a new tank, as removing JUST the tank from the flange piece was not an easy chore, and the flange thing really got messed up. I'd just go for the new heater.

Kitty
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:19 PM   #4
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That's the kind of intel I was looking for. I suspected as much, and since the tank is about half the price of a new one, I see it ain't worth it.

Thank you both!
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted-Thompson
That's the kind of intel I was looking for. I suspected as much, and since the tank is about half the price of a new one, I see it ain't worth it.

Thank you both!
Yeah, if it were the case where someone didn't winterize a new unit properly and had a tank bust, it'd be one thing to replace it on a couple year old heater. But this is a 25 year old one, so the main components would still be 25 years old, which probably isn't worth it. I think it's a smart move to go with the new assembly, especially with the work required.

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Old 01-27-2010, 07:43 PM   #6
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When I replaced my tank I was somewhat uneasy about how to get the tank off the unit. I sent an email to rvproshops (now out of business) and got a nice reply. Here is some of it:

Quote:
... the tank is held to the box by 2 rings that are knocked on from the front side. I usually pry them loose with a large screw driver, also once you pry them loose a little you can cut them with wire cutting pliers. ..... When you go to reassemble the unit you can use a short piece of pipe that is a large enough diameter to fit over the tank burner and exhaust tubes. Or just use a screw driver or piece of wood when you knock the rings back on to the tank. The new tanks do come with the new rings.
You can see one of the rings in these pictures





I was able to pry an edge up on the old rings and then cut it with wire cutters. Getting the new rings on squarely was a lot of work but I did it.

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Old 01-27-2010, 09:24 PM   #7
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That's good info to have in this thread, but since your's looks so nice and shiny and mine looks like this:





Well, I think I'm going to go with the "replace" advice.


Here's a question though, if I remove all the fasteners and get the flange loose from the siding, will I be able to extract the water heater from the outside of the trailer? I ask because the installation directions state that it gets put behind the wall and then shoved through it - the the flange is made by bending ears over.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:40 AM   #8
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The water heater is easy to take out. Disconnect the connections at the rear of the water heater from inside the trailer after turning the water off. From the outside disconnect the gas connectioning the lower left hand corner after turning the gas off. Remove the edge screws from the outside. Remove the front cover by sliding the sliding one of the hinge pieces towards the center. Slide out the heater.

The hardest part is disconnecting the water usualy due to access issues.

Once out I would cap the gas line with a plug and if you wan to continue using the trailer bypass the water lines. I would also keep track of how the water lines are paired, marking a pair with tape.
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:03 AM   #9
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Ok, that's what I thought. It sure LOOKS like it should fit
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
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...Well, I think I'm going to go with the "replace" advice. ...
Well ... no offense, but after looking at the picture I think that is a wise move.

Gene
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Old 01-28-2010, 11:54 PM   #11
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None taken! I didn't let it get like that

I'm just trying to save her.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:03 AM   #12
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Don't be too disturbed by rust, it's typically only a surface condition. If the tank was whole the heater would probably work. My heater looked similar when we bought it however new stainless screws and spray paint quickly fixed the appearance and halted further damage.
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:43 PM   #13
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I have the same situation. Same trailer.
Is this a standard 6 gallon unit? Or do you have to be careful of the dimensions?
Anyone have any advice as to where to order a new one online?
Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenandMelissa
I have the same situation. Same trailer.
Is this a standard 6 gallon unit? Or do you have to be careful of the dimensions?
Anyone have any advice as to where to order a new one online?
Thanks!
I googled that model number and came up with nothing. PPL motorhomes sells different models here:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...er-parts-1.htm

We bought our Atwood WH from Adventure RV.. They sell theirs here:

http://www.adventurerv.net/major-app...s-c-24_41.html
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:46 PM   #15
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thanks for the links! we ordered the atwood from PPL. We've bought from them before.
Now just waiting for it to arrive and hope installation is easy!
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenandMelissa
thanks for the links! we ordered the atwood from PPL. We've bought from them before.
Now just waiting for it to arrive and hope installation is easy!

We're here to help!!

If you have any install issues, just ask!
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