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Old 04-18-2018, 04:37 PM   #1
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Water Heater

Decided to take a look at the water heater today. PO said the trailer had been winterized but when I took the cap off (they had a pipe that extends out from heater I am assuming to route water away from the trailer), this is what I got.


Doesnít appear to be any water leaking inside the trailer but....

So, what am I possibly looking at here? Or what should I be looking for?

Thanks,
Tommie


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Old 04-18-2018, 06:26 PM   #2
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Was it several gallons? Obviously, there shouldn’t be any water in there other than just what is residual at the bottom (a few cups at most and that wouldn’t drain). Most people take the plug out (cap off in your case) and leave the tank open until spring so that can’t happen.

If there isn’t a leak now and the tank didn’t burst then you may be fine. De winterize, flip the heater bypass valve (or valves) and fill the system then try the heater. Keep a close eye on it when filling in case there is a leak.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:21 PM   #3
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I don't think it was full but definitely not just a few cups. More like a couple of gallons.
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:49 AM   #4
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Obviously not ideal, but if it didn’t crack or split that is great.

Just in case you don’t know, Don’t test it if it isn’t fully water.
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:58 AM   #5
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Thanks Tod.

I am guessing (hoping) that since there was water still in it and no water was coming out of it on the inside that it did not crack. Which is amazing since it has been parked for over a year now. I did have to open the pressure relief valve so that the water would drain faster. I hope that is a good sign. I guess my new concern is if he did not drain the water heater, there still may be water in the lines. He said he used some pink stuff but the water out of the tank was clear. There is no bypass on the water heater but I do have a kit so I may go ahead and install that while the tank is empty.

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Old 04-19-2018, 11:16 AM   #6
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One of the historians could tell you for sure, but I’m almost sure the all had bypass valves (older ones had 2, newer had one valve) - if not, things were modified. Either way, just watch it as you bring the whole system up to pressure. Open up all the cupboards and have some towels handy - watch, listen outside and in.
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
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One of the historians could tell you for sure, but Iím almost sure the all had bypass valves (older ones had 2, newer had one valve) - if not, things were modified. Either way, just watch it as you bring the whole system up to pressure. Open up all the cupboards and have some towels handy - watch, listen outside and in.
Nope, I don't think so. The winterizing kit was optional on Sunlines I think through the end. I'm not sure when they started offering it as an option. I seem to recall I've heard of other '80s ones that didn't have anything for winterizing.

I never had my '86 in cold weather months (bought in April, sold in August), so I don't know what it had/didn't have in terms of bypass.
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:30 AM   #8
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Nope, I don't think so. The winterizing kit was optional on Sunlines I think through the end. I'm not sure when they started offering it as an option. I seem to recall I've heard of other '80s ones that didn't have anything for winterizing.

I never had my '86 in cold weather months (bought in April, sold in August), so I don't know what it had/didn't have in terms of bypass.
Well there you go, that is why I stay out of the historical aspects .
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:40 AM   #9
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Yeah, I checked a while ago which is why I ordered a kit.


I will try to test the water system and get it installed this weekend. Thanks for all of the info.

Tommie
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Old 04-19-2018, 01:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
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One of the historians could tell you for sure, but Iím almost sure the all had bypass valves (older ones had 2, newer had one valve) - if not, things were modified. Either way, just watch it as you bring the whole system up to pressure. Open up all the cupboards and have some towels handy - watch, listen outside and in.
Hot water heater bypasses were an option, so you may not have one factory installed.

Look for a pipe connecting the cold line into the heater to the hot line out of the heater. There can be one, two, or three valves involved depending on how it was done.

Typing at the same time☺....to add to Jon's......I have probably one of, if not the last, custom ordered Sunline that was delivered, and it was an option still.



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Old 04-19-2018, 02:13 PM   #11
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Hi Mack,

I followed the lines and did not see a bypass. I am pretty sure I don't have one.

The other thing I found is there is some blue build up in the pressure relief valve. Bad?



Thanks,
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Old 04-19-2018, 02:57 PM   #12
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Hi Mack,

I followed the lines and did not see a bypass. I am pretty sure I don't have one.

The other thing I found is there is some blue build up in the pressure relief valve. Bad?



Thanks,
Tommie
I'm not a plumber, but my gut tells me I would replace that relief valve.

That spring controls the pressure the valve opens at, and I'd be concerned that build up of scale might not let it release properly.

OK, so I was a pump operator in the VFD for many years, I might know a little bit about.......

BTW - I don't see a bypass on the picture of your water heater.

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Old 04-19-2018, 03:02 PM   #13
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LOL...Thanks Mack.
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:23 PM   #14
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Hi Tommie,

This pic of yours


That water heater has been replaced along the way. That is not a 1987 heater. The really old ones did not use the white formed styrofoam insulation. It had more of a cardboard kind of insulation. So that is the good news.

The not good news is they left water in the heater and yes it is wherever it can flow too in the pipes. In your area of VA. I know some years when I use to work down there we had snow and really cold, but not always. Did you get mega cold this winter? like the zero and below?

Also a heads up. I see the vise grips on something the prior owner installed. Atwood uses a nylon plastic plug in the tank drain. They do that on purpose as to not use steel fittings as it can easily cross thread and ruin the soft aluminum threads in the tank. Ideally that steel part comes out and you use a nylon plug. If you want to extend the piping to make it easier to drain, let us know there are ways of using nylon fittings and hose to make it work and not run the risk of messing up the tank threads.

Hopefully your piping is still sound.

Hope this helps

John
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