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Old 04-24-2018, 06:19 PM   #21
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Well, I tried everything I could think of. It either ended up too high or the pipes weren’t long enough.



This is what I ended up with.


Yep, I gave up. There just isn’t enough room.





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Old 04-24-2018, 07:08 PM   #22
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Hi Tommie,

I sense your frustration...bummer.

If at some time in the future you want to pursue this more, tell us this.

Does the bottom valve and gray pex all work, is it just the top part that has the problem?


If it is only the top with the issues, I may have a possible thing to see if it will fit and possibly work.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:22 PM   #23
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Yes, frustrated. I apologize for the poor plumbing skills, LOL. I miss my stepdad. He was a plumber. I am sure he would have come up with something really quick.

The bottom will work if setup like in the first pic. But the top would have been too high because it is under the bed in the back. If I try to flip the top downward then it would be too close to the bottom connection and the pipes may have been too short (can't remember on this point). I tried several different scenarios before throwing in the towel but I think the first pic is as close as I could get. Too bad it's not in a closet.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 04-25-2018, 02:45 PM   #24
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I'm not familiar with what different threads you are dealing with, but just looking at picture I'm wondering can the base of the "T" screw into the tank to eliminate the 90 and union?
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Old 04-25-2018, 03:03 PM   #25
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Hi Enormiss,
Once the bypass is installed, I then have to tie back in the two inlets (pump and city water) and two outlets (bathroom and kitchenette). The bypass only provides one inlet and one outlet. The original tees that join the inlets and outlets have all male ends. If I can find a couple of tees with two male ends and a female connection on top that may help but they did not have any at our local Lowes. I am going to search online tonight.

This is the original:


This the bypass installed and then I would need to figure out how to tie back in the two original tees that connects to the existing pipes. I hope that makes sense.


Plus not much room to work with. The bypass has to fit right next to the converter.

Thanks.
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:40 PM   #26
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I'm thinking like your last picture above but with the base of the "T" into the tank. Before you screw that into tank take off hoses from other "T" and join two "T's" together. You may not have room to join them when the one "T" is already in the tank but should be able to orient the assembly to spin it into tank after they are joined. Then attach the white bypass hose and supply lines. Works in my head anyway but maybe not really!
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:07 PM   #27
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I think I may have it figured out. At least I hope so. I will give it another go this weekend.
Thanks for all of the input. Much appreciated!

Tommie
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:35 AM   #28
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Water Heater

OK. I think I got it now. Still really close to the power converter but it will work. I will see if I can put a barrier between the two.



Thanks,
Tommie

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Old 04-29-2018, 12:28 PM   #29
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Good Job!! We knew you could do it.

Going to a 2 valve bypass setup is actually better in my opinion then the 1 valve and the check valve setup that comes with most campers. When the check valve as simple as it is stops working, then you can have no water or no bypass. The 2 valve setup is positive, the only thing to remember is which way the valves are supposed to be.

Again, great job!

John
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Old 04-29-2018, 06:59 PM   #30
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Thanks JohnB! I went back to the files section and re-read the documentation and tried this bypass kit. Which was cheaper than trying to get the other one to work.
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:35 PM   #31
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Nice job and I like your labels!
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Old 04-30-2018, 08:33 PM   #32
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Thanks Enormiss! One more thing to scratch off my list.



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