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Old 05-11-2018, 10:37 AM   #441
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Thank you gentleman!

JohnB - On the brackets, those are on the bottom wall. The measurements you see above are from the upper wall. I only used the kreg up there. On the 120 VAC plug, the wire for that along with some 12v wiring is run horizontally on that wall from the street side towards the plug. I did not use the 12v wiring as I decided not to put the light on the front so that is capped off. If I start from the top and slowly move downward by the plug, it will start at 0 and then at some point hit 8 and then increase as I go further down. It hit 21% which was the highest reading in that area and decreased down to 0%. The lower wall is reading 0%. I will check again this weekend. It is supposed to be quite warm.

Sunline Fan - I hope that is all it is. I went out and looked all around those areas and I cannot visibly see anything open or any cracks. The couple of things I did find, the readings in that area have not changed which is in the back. The tail lights need some Dicor applied. From what I can tell, none of the readings in the back changed.

Thanks again.

Tommie

Another observation: The wall board on the front does not take to water very well. When I was working on the repairs, some of the wall board got a little wet. You can still see those couple of spots. In the areas where the readings are, the wallboard does not look deformed at all, at least it did not look that way yesterday.
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Old 05-11-2018, 03:54 PM   #442
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Me personally.
I’d do a super thorough inspection on the roof, openings, etc.
Touch up anything that looks suspect and go camping.
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:08 PM   #443
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Hey JohnnyBGood!

I just went over the roof a couple of weeks ago. Put Eternabond on all the roof seams and around all of the vents except the AC. I just don't see any suspect areas. At least not yet. My daughter is away for her 2 week drill. She will be back next weekend. We will be going sometime when she returns. Luckily, we are off on the same days so hopefully that will make it easy to schedule.

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Old 05-11-2018, 10:29 PM   #444
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Any chance of some pinholes in the siding in those locations? If you find them, a dab of Dicor will seal it.

With the butyl tape process followed by Dicoring the exposed butyl, that is a double seal. While nothing is impossible, a corner leak out of the gate on a good rebuild is not common.

Please do tell what you find. Always learn something new on these rebuilds.
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Old 05-12-2018, 11:42 AM   #445
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Good afternoon,

I was able to move the battery cutoff switch to the positive side. It appears to be working.



I looked at some of the pictures from the repair and compared to where the readings are and I think you are correct. It appears to be picking up the wiring, at least on the street side. So far reading 0% except those areas previously found. I do not see any deformities in the front wallboard.



Put dicor around the tail lights. The tail lights will have to be replaced when the back is repaired. The one on the street side is cracked.

I was able to install the smoke/carbon dioxide detector before the heat wave hit. I will try to test out the water system and check for leaks. Sunline Fan gave me some pointers. Gotta find those and try giving it a go.

My nerves have settled a little. Now have butterflies about going to the campground. Amy came along and coached me with backing the trailer in when I brought it back home. She says I did well. I don't think so. The parking lot that I would use to practice is currently hosting the carnival.

Thanks for putting up with me. I do believe we are ready to go camping now. Sent the kid an update. I think she is ready too!

A huge "Thank you" from a now happy camper, I think.

Tommie
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:22 PM   #446
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There are "traits" to a "real" water leak.

It is a good assumption now that those readings might be picking up metal in the wall. Metal in the wall does not change much if any over time. If you keep going back to the exact same spot and the meter reads the same medium numbers like you have ( maybe only a digit or 2 different) then this helps even more confirm it is not water.

One could expect if it is really water, the reading will either slowly get higher readings or lower. Metal readings really will not change much unless a wire moved etc.

You will have a great time out in your camper admiring all your hard work you did. What a journey! This is what campfire stories are all about...
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:54 AM   #447
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That's great news about the wiring, Tommie! Hopefully that is really all it is. I agree, it's time to just pack it up and go camping!
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:48 PM   #448
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Getting water out of walls and floors. A commercial air mover is a great investment if you have issues. I just found my floor wet as well. I own several air movers used to dry carpet and flood damage. They will move air into the walls and under the floor to dry out quickly. Lowes I believe sells a small one for under a hundred.
While I'm on the subject has anyone put a pvc pipe with above floor access to move air under the plywood and above the barrier to keep moisture out? Since I have my floor up I'm thinking of running a 1 1/2 pvc with holes drilled in it about 5 feet wide under the floor so I can attach a hose to it to blow air underneath. Sounds crazy but I'm looking at preventative maintenance since it's too late by the time the floor is soft. I will put in a floor vent to allow the air and moisture to escape. The air mover is great when your camping as well if you can't run the AC.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:32 PM   #449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynardjw View Post
Getting water out of walls and floors. A commercial air mover is a great investment if you have issues. I just found my floor wet as well. I own several air movers used to dry carpet and flood damage. They will move air into the walls and under the floor to dry out quickly. Lowes I believe sells a small one for under a hundred.
While I'm on the subject has anyone put a pvc pipe with above floor access to move air under the plywood and above the barrier to keep moisture out? Since I have my floor up I'm thinking of running a 1 1/2 pvc with holes drilled in it about 5 feet wide under the floor so I can attach a hose to it to blow air underneath. Sounds crazy but I'm looking at preventative maintenance since it's too late by the time the floor is soft. I will put in a floor vent to allow the air and moisture to escape. The air mover is great when your camping as well if you can't run the AC.
If you search out 4 season campers, meaning they are designed to go into very cold conditions, they have attic vents. They have to let the water vapor that migrates through the ceiling vent out of the attic section. I never had a roof off one of them, yet anyway, to know if they do something different with the insulation to allow air movement to the actual attic roof vent.

To your basement venting thoughts, the thought is not crazy. An issue may be is how to create an air flow path across the entire floor area. The insulation fills the floor joist cavities and there are several cavities across the floor. Pending the vintage of your camper, the older ones the floor joists ran front to back. The newer campers run left to right. Each has it issues creating a venting path.

Most of the moisture that ends up below the floor comes from above the floor. This can be come from of corner sealant leak, window frame sealant leak, roof sealant leak the list goes on. Those areas need large attention on the sealants used to make sure water does not get in. That said if the moisture can leave the camper somehow after it got in, and that could be accomplished in a simple and effective manner, that is a good thing. Easier said than done.

If you come up with some ideas, consider starting a new post. Always open to new ideas to help the water infection problems.

Thanks

John
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Old 09-07-2018, 07:03 AM   #450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
If you search out 4 season campers, meaning they are designed to go into very cold conditions, they have attic vents.

John
John,
What would those attic vents look like? Do you have any pictures?
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Old 07-11-2020, 03:59 PM   #451
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Well I had one my bright ideas again! Decided to start the repair of the water damage in the back wall. Already having issues. Any T1550 owners have issues taking off the bottom metal piece. This one is jammed in tight and it extends down past the back of the bumper. I have tried prying up on the top overlapping piece to create some wiggle room. Still can't pull it up and out without damaging it. Also tried to slide it left and right but it will not budge. Anyone else have this problem? If so, how did you get it out?

Thanks for the input. It is much appreciated.

Tommie
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Old 07-12-2020, 10:09 PM   #452
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Tommie, by chance does that bumper bolt on? The newer campers do bolt on. I am not sure about the older ones or if something welded it on along the way.

If it is bolted on, look behind the bumper for the bolts to the frame. The bolts normally are by the main frame rails. Getting the bolts out may be a hurdle being rusted on, or you get lucky. If by chance there are bolts, soak them up several times over night on the exposed threads and even longer with penetrating oil to lesson up the rust. PB Blaster in a spray can is sold in a lot of stores, even the big box lumber yards and works fairly well.

A thought on the siding, in case the bumper does not come off and you run out of ideas. In this case you find a long board, a furring strip or any piece of 3/4" thick x 2 maybe 3" wide but as long as the width of the camper.

Undo the staples on the ends under the corner molding on the bottom sheet if you have not already. Then gently pry out a small pucker in the bottom siding in the center of the sheet. Center being in the middle of the 10 to 12" tall (up; and down) end at the corner. The goal is to push the long board behind the siding and the wall studs in the center. As you work the board across, that puckering in the center of the sheet makes the overall height of the sheet shorter in a up and down vertical direction and you may be able to pry out the top of the sheet from the layer above by pulling out on the board. Or pop out the sheet from the part below the bumper.

I have pop'ed out a siding sheet before on the top where it laps into the sheet above by flexing the siding in the center and then working it out. I start at the end and pucker the end enough to get the top to unhook and then keep working it across until it comes out. Use gloves, it can cut you. I did not have to use the board trick, but the siding was only 4 feet long and not the 7' yours was so the board may help. But the same process should work.

If you can't get the sheet out and you can't figure out what I'm talking about flexing the sheet, let me know I'll take some pics and post on how to do it. I have a project camper apart to show how to do this.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:55 PM   #453
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Thanks JohnB! I think I understand what you are saying. I will give that a try.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 07-15-2020, 10:40 AM   #454
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I was able to get the bottom piece of metal off. The bumper is welded on so I had to use the other method. It worked with minimum damage. You can see where the piece was crammed against the frame behind the bumper.

On to the next.

Thanks again.
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Old 07-15-2020, 07:01 PM   #455
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Oh joy!
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Old 07-15-2020, 09:01 PM   #456
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You made it past the siding!


From the pics, it looks like a really bad window flange sealant leak on the left side of the camper. The right side, had some window flange seal issue and most likely a corner molding sealant leak.

Does it look like that to you?

Did you see any of the damage get into the floor system at the back wall?

You are pre-trained on this now!

You will do a good job on this area like you did on the front. We are here rooting for ya!

John
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Old 07-15-2020, 10:44 PM   #457
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From the pics, it looks like a really bad window flange sealant leak on the left side of the camper. The right side, had some window flange seal issue and most likely a corner molding sealant leak.

Does it look like that to you?
Both of the corners (left and right) are rotted and needs replacing. The window was definitely leaking. I saw gaps back when I was doing maintenance and did a temporary seal. There is also a crack in the metal siding near the upper left corner of the window that I put Eternabond tape over. I guess it worked, because the wood is dry and dusting. The dusting was showing on the inside under the window which prompted me to go ahead and start the repair. The wood above the window all still looks new from what I can see so far.

Did you see any of the damage get into the floor system at the back wall?
There is what looks like a 2x2 between the wallboard and the metal siding that runs left to right that needs to be replaced. When I checked the inside flooring in the back a while ago, it was solid. I think the inside flooring was saved because it is on the other side of the wallboard. Keeping my fingers crossed.

You are pre-trained on this now!
I don't know about that. I barely made it thru the front repair.
Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 07-16-2020, 10:07 AM   #458
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Did you see any of the damage get into the floor system at the back wall?
There is what looks like a 2x2 between the wallboard and the metal siding that runs left to right that needs to be replaced. When I checked the inside flooring in the back a while ago, it was solid. I think the inside flooring was saved because it is on the other side of the wallboard. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Good news most of the inside floor is solid. That is a good place to start.

If your camper has the bottom dirt/water shield out of metal, versus the plastic membrane, your odds may be better water did not wick down the floor joists. It seems, (yet to be confirmed) the older metal bottom covers allowed wall water coming down to at least leak out. The plastic warped bottom covers fit to tight and snug that the water cannot get out. So the rot damage goes a lot further into the floor system.

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

John
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Old 07-25-2020, 01:23 PM   #459
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Demolition is not going well. After taking out a lot of staples and all of the screws that can I see (with the exception of a couple at the bottom that just turn), the bottom grid will not budge. I guess I am not remembering how this should all come apart. Add to that frustration, there may be some water damage to the floor joists, even though the OSB seems to be solid. As I mentioned above, the screws at the very bottom are rusted and some only turn and will not work their way out. I felt myself getting frustrated and left it alone for now. We are having a heat wave here too. I may need to take out the water heater to access that corner (street side) and maybe help get the back wall out. The street side is the worse side.

At this point, I am considering cutting my losses and getting rid of the trailer. I am losing motivation. I seem to work on it more than I actually get to enjoy it. We'll see. Right now, I need to start trying to get the water heater out. I may take this opportunity to replace the city water connection. It leaks on the outside of the trailer where the water hose connects to it. I have a replacement, just never found the time to replace it.

Thanks for listening to my moaning and groaning...LOL.

Tommie
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Old 07-25-2020, 03:51 PM   #460
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Hi Tommie,

I feel your frustration. Dealing with rusted out fasteners can be a bugger at times.

But, we are hear to help! and to cheer you up!

Don't let this get you down, blame it on the heat, not the camper. We were re-roofing my sons house a few weeks ago. It was hot and muggy and that for sure drains the "will" power right out of you. His roof is all done now, but the heat has not let up yet.

Post some pics of what you are up against so we can see and give you some thoughts on how to help tackle it.

Keep plug'in! You are doing great!

John
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