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Old 06-30-2017, 07:36 PM   #261
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Hi Tommie,

Yup, the frame does look pretty good.

You are doing good on the butyl. Yes, fill those depressions. Yes, it uses a little more tape, but in these cases the little bit of extra waste creates a lot of insurance of no leaks.

I have made it to buying butyl by the case... Not a great thing to be proud of, more of a reality of the need.

Thanks

John
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:05 AM   #262
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Good morning,

I was trying to get the door in this morning. The test fit shows the frame to be out of square. This is with the holes lined up. Which means it probably wasn't Square from the begin with. The problem is the frame fits in tight with no wiggle room.

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Old 07-02-2017, 09:24 AM   #263
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Ah yup... as predicted, it may have never been right to start with.

That looks like about 3/16" to 1/4" out of square across 24" of rafter square.

A question, is the door hinge side that far out too? Sometimes the hinge side is good and the striker/handle side is out.

Another thought as this may be part of the issue, is the camper on jack stands or are the stabilizers cranked down hard? Even the front stabilizers.

These camper frames flex quite quite a bit. And your 3/4" wall structure will flex even more then the newer 1 1/2" studded walls. Try and raise the stabilizers so they do not touch the ground and remove any jack stands under the frame and see what the natural sag of the camper shows as far a door sag. It might be you are over cranked down on the stabilizers and this can get better real quick by letting some of that pressure off.

The end result is the door has to swing and fit into the frame with acceptable clearance all around. Even if the frame is out a little.

It sounds like you do not have much excess clearance on the left to right of the wood opening to the metal frame, did I understand that right? There had to be some level of clearance or the frame would not go in. It might only be a 1/16" but it had to be something. Mine had about 3/16" left to right clearance and the hinge side was favored to be solid and the air gap on the striker side.

Also look at the top of the door frame clearance. Putting a shim under the bottom of the frame on the correct side will lift that side and allow the door to come in closer to square. That is if there is room on that side to go up. I used a small pry bar or large screwdriver to play with to raise the frame and then created a shim to fit for permanent.

Hope this helps

John

PS. Do not worry if you are not using all the original holes in the siding and have to make new ones to get the door to work right. Many times there are so many screws they will not all line up. Especially after the siding has been on and off and back on. Odds are high the siding is not in the exact same place as it was to start with so the holes are not either.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:32 AM   #264
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Door hinge side

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Old 07-02-2017, 09:36 AM   #265
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Right now I still have the old style stabilizer jacks and they are pretty much just supporting the camper to keep it level.

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Old 07-02-2017, 09:44 AM   #266
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Okay something that you said clit about having the shim on the right side and when I say right I mean correct side. I move the shim all the way over to the hinge side and now when I check the squareness it's square on that side.

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Old 07-02-2017, 09:53 AM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
Okay something that you said clicked about having the shim on the right side and when I say right I mean correct side. I move the shim all the way over to the hinge side and now when I check the squareness it's square on that side.
YEH!!!! That was a real fast fix!!

Also heads up, if the jack stands are creating a level camper, odds are high it will go into something different once you take the weight off them.

While you are test fitting, use the shim on the "correct" place, check the fit. Then release the pressure on the jacks and make sure it's natural sag still works for the door. You may have to hit a happy medium of the 2 extremes. There are times you go in and out of the door with no jack stands while loading and then when at camp, the stands go in and up. The door has to work on both extremes.

Your back on track now. Keep at it.

John
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:53 AM   #268
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This is with the thickest sham I can get under there.

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Old 07-02-2017, 09:55 AM   #269
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That does not look bad with the thickest shim. It should work. Just make sure it works with the jack stands not supporting the camper. See the post above. We where both typing at the same time.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:56 AM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
That does not look bad with the thickest shim. It should work. Just make sure it works with the jack stands not supporting the camper. See the post above. We where both typing at the same time.
I have already taken the jack stands down.

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Old 07-02-2017, 09:57 AM   #271
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Okay I just read your other post so I'm guessing that now I need to put the jack stands back up again and measure the squareness again?

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Old 07-02-2017, 10:03 AM   #272
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Jack stands are backup. It did change slightly but not a lot.

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Old 07-02-2017, 10:16 AM   #273
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Great!!! Your good to go. It works with both conditions. On stands and the natural sag.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:12 PM   #274
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Wew! Door is in. Thank you JohnB for your great advice once again.

The only issue I ran into was the bottom row of screws. I had to use longer screws (1 1/2 in.) than the others (1 1/4 in.). There was one that I actually had to go even longer at 2 1/2 half in. That one looks a little out of place because it's different than the other screws but it's in there. There was one other screw that was giving me a hard time because it wasn't catching that well either but it goes into the wall so I can't go in with a longer screw because it protrudes out into the inside of the camper.

I also took​ the direction of SunlineFan and dicor the valleys of the door.

Also JohnB, after thinking about it there was a sign that the door may not have been square before I took it out. I had to lift up on the door before to lock the deadbolt. I don't anymore. Now just need to find my putty knives. I got several of them and can't find not one single one. [emoji30]

That's it for now. It is hot and humid but at least I got accomplished what I wanted to get done today. Thanks for all of the assist. Much appreciated.

Tommie

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Old 07-02-2017, 05:28 PM   #275
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Good job!!!

From the pic, the gap around the door looks good. The center area at the strike plate is a little out but not much to be a concern. And since you said the door lock now works without lifting the door, that makes it even better. Having to lift the door to get the lock to work gets real old, real fast...

Your camper is starting to look "whole" again.
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Old 07-05-2017, 01:10 PM   #276
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Good afternooon,

Anybody know what these two screws are for? They don't seem to be connected to anything. And are not holding anything. They are on the driver side to the left of the cargo door.

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Old 07-05-2017, 08:08 PM   #277
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H'mm,

They are too small for a lower awning bracket. I'm thinking the prior owner may have mounted something there that no longer exists. Those screws look like no 8's just like the cargo hole screw next to it. Not very big. The upper one may only be in the siding and no wood behind it.

Don't know on this one.

John
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Old 07-05-2017, 09:14 PM   #278
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Front driver side cargo area repair

Good evening,

Just a short update.

Before


After





Cargo door reinstalled and sealed with new butyl tape.


Thanks for looking.

Tommie
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Old 07-05-2017, 09:34 PM   #279
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Quote:
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H'mm,

They are too small for a lower awning bracket. I'm thinking the prior owner may have mounted something there that no longer exists. Those screws look like no 8's just like the cargo hole screw next to it. Not very big. The upper one may only be in the siding and no wood behind it.

Don't know on this one.

John
Hi JohnB,

I don't see any use for them right now so I put Eternabond on the inside before adding the insulation board. I will dicor and Eternabond the outside when the weather lets up. Had to call it quits after the cargo door went in because a storm rolled in. Will be that way off and on until the weekend so I guess I will have to find some indoor work to do. I need to dewinterize the plumbing system. This is the only system that has not been tested. I may give that a go tomorrow to check it out.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 07-05-2017, 09:45 PM   #280
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Your doing great!!! One cargo door installed and "done". Yeh

Your pics do show the top screw of the "mystery screws" as being into just the siding and no wood behind. Good move on plugging up the holes.

Hope the plumbing comes up good and everything works.

Thanks

John
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