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Old 06-03-2017, 12:50 PM   #201
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Will something this work? Trying to improvise.



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Old 06-03-2017, 12:54 PM   #202
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Sorry JohnB I think I was sending as your message was coming in period I am reading over your response now.

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Old 06-03-2017, 01:04 PM   #203
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Hi JohnB,

I do have a jigsaw. I was afraid to use it because I was afraid the blade would go down through the membrane. I can try it but feeling a bit apprehensive. I have sucked in these corners.

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Old 06-03-2017, 01:26 PM   #204
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Okay....I got it cut now gotta get it out. Thanks JohnB!


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Old 06-03-2017, 02:11 PM   #205
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If you treated the side of the camper old board with Rot doctor to kill any dry rot fungus and the board has some strength left where you're putting the screws, then yes that strap can work

I would suggest adding a second hole in the angled new piece. Space it as far as you can from the one screw hole they have now but not to split the new wood.


Do a very small pilot drill on the new wood holes before the screw to help from splitting


Another thought to help if you can across the front of the camper, install an extra new board maybe 6 inches long screwed to the front of the camper , so the end of this new board is used to back up the new angled board. Then use long enough screws in the end of the new angle board. Go through the strap, through the front angled board and into the end of the 6 inch new board to help the new 6 inch board share load.


Ideally that joint is Kreg drilled but if the wood is slightly bad then use the strap


Does that help?
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Old 06-03-2017, 02:13 PM   #206
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OK I was posting from my phone and I see you have a cut done to replace the board. Great, now you can go ahead and Kreg drill that joint

I did not see the other two posts got to get used to the phone thing
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Old 06-03-2017, 04:05 PM   #207
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Mentally exhausted

Good evening.

After 6 hours, I am calling it quits for today. Only got part of a corner done.

Thanks JohnB for all of the advice. I cut out that bad piece and went ahead and cut out and replace that bad piece of 2x2 that I could not get to when I was replacing the floor joists. Both of those pieces had been treated with RotDoctor and had hardened but since the wall is now open and I had to cut out the 1x3 anyway (it had split), went ahead and cut out the bad piece of 2x2 as well. The new piece of 1x3 is in place. Now just need to check the final fit and glue & screw the rest of that corner in.



Thanks for looking.

Tommie
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Old 06-03-2017, 05:31 PM   #208
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Looking good. Hopefully your seeing some light at the end of the tunnel.

I saw your post about Lake Anna being book up but people cancel reservations all the time. When you start getting towards your first trip call them daily and you might be surprised.

The wife and I got so frustrated finding availability at desirable campsites we've started booking sites way in advance. If something comes up we just cancel and maybe have to eat one night at the most. We suspect that's what a lot of campers do.

We got a prime site at Castaways outside of Ocean City last Memorial Day weekend. We had been trying to get a site there since February but they we're all booked up. Called 30 days before the holiday and a site was available. Coincidentally 30 days is all most places will give you for a deposit refund (I think).
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Old 06-03-2017, 05:35 PM   #209
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Hi Tommie,

I know these things take time.... You are doing a great job!! Keep up the good work!

When this is done, you will have a nice sound camper and you will know how to maintain it going forward so it will not leak like this again.

It was really hot up here today. 86F. The heat slows down progress too. We have a manufacturing plant in VA between Roanoke and Lynchburg. A small town called Altavista. I would travel to do work in the plant and I know how hot the summer time can be in VA... And how cold it can get in the winter too... Nasty ice storms too.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:06 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
Good evening.

After 6 hours, I am calling it quits for today. Only got part of a corner done.

Thanks JohnB for all of the advice. I cut out that bad piece and went ahead and cut out and replace that bad piece of 2x2 that I could not get to when I was replacing the floor joists. Both of those pieces had been treated with RotDoctor and had hardened but since the wall is now open and I had to cut out the 1x3 anyway (it had split), went ahead and cut out the bad piece of 2x2 as well. The new piece of 1x3 is in place. Now just need to check the final fit and glue & screw the rest of that corner in.



Thanks for looking.

Tommie
I hear ya! After all of the work I've done so far, I found a 5"X5" wet spot on the new wall board on the back wall/ corner. I threw my gloves down and jammed by lawn mower into the garage and grabbed a tube of dicor non-leveling caulk and went to town on both sides of the corner trim, around the lights, and every screw head that I could see. I made a mess but I will go back and clean it up once it dries. Tomorrow it's back up onto the roof to seal everything that looks like I didn't hit it the first time. I'm totally disgusted.

You're doing a great job putting yours back together and it will feel great when it is done. Sometimes you just have to walk away.
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:20 PM   #211
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Ah man SEP! That's a bummer! At least you caught it early. With everything going on (weather, work, and now yard work), it will be 2018 before I finish. Hopefully, you will find the leak before there is any additional damage. How did the wallboard fair against getting wet? Any swelling or warping?


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Old 06-03-2017, 06:37 PM   #212
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Quote:
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Ah man SEP! That's a bummer! At least you caught it early. With everything going on (weather, work, and now yard work), it will be 2018 before I finish. Hopefully, you will find the leak before there is any additional damage. How did the wallboard fair against getting wet? Any swelling or warping?


Thanks,
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Tommie,

What can you do? Things happen. I thought I was going to get on a roll with mine but this just dampened things, no pun intended. No, it didn't swell or warp. It just looked like a shadow so I guess you could say it discolored the white a bit.

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Old 06-03-2017, 07:22 PM   #213
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Hello again,

One more thing that came up today. On the inside of the the aluminum siding, there are a few spots (3 so far) that is starting to corrode I am guessing from being exposed to so much water. A pin-sized hole through to the outside. I am hoping I can use the silver sealing tape on the inside and Eternabond tape on the outside. I did not take pictures as I was concentrating on the corners. I will try to take pics tomorrow but the holes I have found so far are pin-sized. I can probably stick the tip of a small safety pin in.

Thanks,
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Old 06-03-2017, 07:48 PM   #214
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Hi Tommie,

Since you can get to the inside now, you can put a small piece of eternabond on the inside and outside. It will not leak with this in place.

The silver tape may also work however if you have a choice between the E bond and the silver tape, the Ebond will seal better longer.

Just make sure you clean the surface well before using the E bond.

Yes, the aluminum does corrode. Staple holes are noted for this at the bottom of the camper when road salt splash hit the staples. Other areas can corrode too if the paint is dinged or some form of salt hits that spot and eats into it.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-04-2017, 09:40 AM   #215
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Good morning,

I ran into another issue this morning. Now that I have a good wood to wood join, I no longer have a good wood to metal join. There is now a big gap between the wood and the metal siding. Perhaps this is why Sunline used squared ends. Any suggestions? I am at a loss.



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Old 06-04-2017, 09:52 AM   #216
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I will add that the bottom grid will have a 5mm piece of luan attached to it. But that gap is way more than that.

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Tommie

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Old 06-04-2017, 10:20 AM   #217
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I could try to glue and screw in a filler piece. That seems to close the gap a bit, at least in the driver side.


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Tommie

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Old 06-04-2017, 07:04 PM   #218
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Hi Tommie,

It looks like there is a full width strip of maybe 3/4" think board missing in front of your new 2 x 3 that was in your old demo folder pics. That gap could be 7/8" wide which would be a 3/4 piece plus 1/8" luan.

This is the area I mean, a full width board is missing. See between the arrows. Something needs to fill that space somehow as there is nothing to back up the front siding. The front angled siding would have nothing to back it up nor does your corner. What was in that space originally?



See here from the demo pics. The red arrow board


What did you mean, Sunline used square ends? I'm not following that. The shim block you added I do not think will solve the front wall issue while it may address the outer corner metal problem. I'm not seeing what your front wall will be doing yet. How does it fit into this? Maybe you need to add a full width shim board in place of your short small one.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-04-2017, 08:18 PM   #219
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Hi JohnB,

Please the response below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
It looks like there is a full width strip of maybe 3/4" think board missing in front of your new 2 x 3 that was in your old demo folder pics. That gap could be 7/8" wide which would be a 3/4 piece plus 1/8" luan.

This is the area I mean, a full width board is missing. See between the arrows. Something needs to fill that space somehow as there is nothing to back up the front siding. The front angled siding would have nothing to back it up nor does your corner. What was in that space originally?



See here from the demo pics. The red arrow board


This is where the bottom grid goes. It is 3/4 inch thick. Please see pic below. That new board at the very bottom is the replacement board that the arrow is pointing to above. Actually, this grid is for that entire bottom area. In this picture I have the old on top of the new checking for proper alignment.


What did you mean, Sunline used square ends?
They were just regular cross cuts instead of angle cuts.

Thanks

John
I hope this makes sense. I still have to put in the bottom grid and the grid just above that. I still have those in the garage. These are the two grids that I worked on right after finishing the floor joists. The old grids (that fell apart and had to be pieced back together) were used as templates. But the corners have to be in place to attach them to. Plus the original bottom grid was attached to the 2x3 with 2 or 3 inch screws. Again, I hope this makes sense.

Thanks so much for your time.

Tommie
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Old 06-04-2017, 08:23 PM   #220
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Here is a picture of the top grid.


I am actually thinking about adding a little more lumbar to this for stability. Depends on what I have left over.


Thanks,
Tommie
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