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Old 10-13-2010, 08:14 AM   #1
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Wall/roof insulation

Last weekend was ongoing repairs/maint while camping and I re-did my taillights. Since the new Bargmans had wire holes on the OTHER side of the old ones, I had to elongate the opening in the siding. I notice the insulation is a fiberglass type like pink, but yellow in color.

After reading the pages on the guy building his own camper on the old popup frame, I wonder if I can replace my insulation with foam board. It comes in many thicknesses at lowes depot and should seal better.

Anyone tried this? how hard is it taking a sunny apart from the inside (say a nice winter project, go inside, turn on the heat, tear down panels and re-insulate....)
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:01 AM   #2
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I had to do a major renovation in mine due to water damage, but I wouldn't recommend it just for the sake of reinsulating. Many of the panelling/furniture pieces are put in from the outside when it is built. The last thing to go on is the exterior aluminum. Many of the screws/fasteners, especially on things like the valences over windows and such are all fastened from the back of the panelling through the furniture. I did use foam board insulation in my floor and wall repairs but I would never had gotten into it if it wasn't for all the existing rot that needed to be replaced.
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:12 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
Anyone tried this? how hard is it taking a sunny apart from the inside (say a nice winter project, go inside, turn on the heat, tear down panels and re-insulate....)
Because of the way these things are built, the only feasible way to do this would be from the outside. Well, you could do it from the inside, but it would be about 10 times the work and you would certainly be guaranteed damage to the walls and cabinetry.

The good news is that the siding is a piece of cake to work with. All the trim is screwed on, the windows are screwed in, and the siding is attached with common staples. The roof is a different story.

That said, I'm not sure it would be worth the effort. You might pick up 2 R at best, and you would be looking at at least a $500 investment by the time you bought foam and butyl tape to reinstall everything. If you were a hard-core winter camper and wanted to do some other upgrades like thermal windows, then it might be worth it.

I wish there was an easier way into the roof because when running wires I had found some sections in my Sunline that are completely non-insulated. If I run the furnace on a snowy day, they really show up in the snow melt pattern - even more places than I had found too.

Just my $0.02..

- Frank
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank View Post
Because of the way these things are built, the only feasible way to do this would be from the outside. Well, you could do it from the inside, but it would be about 10 times the work and you would certainly be guaranteed damage to the walls and cabinetry.

The good news is that the siding is a piece of cake to work with. All the trim is screwed on, the windows are screwed in, and the siding is attached with common staples. The roof is a different story.

That said, I'm not sure it would be worth the effort. You might pick up 2 R at best, and you would be looking at at least a $500 investment by the time you bought foam and butyl tape to reinstall everything. If you were a hard-core winter camper and wanted to do some other upgrades like thermal windows, then it might be worth it.

I wish there was an easier way into the roof because when running wires I had found some sections in my Sunline that are completely non-insulated. If I run the furnace on a snowy day, they really show up in the snow melt pattern - even more places than I had found too.

Just my $0.02..

- Frank
Good thread. The latest RV Manufacturer insulation is hard foam vacuum bonded to the inner and outer walls. This also makes for a more rigid shell.

Since I use my 1988 Sunline for a year round office -- in addition to camping trips -- I would like to remove the roof and from there survey the spaces between the walls (if possible?), and inject closed cell foam in all the accessible spaces. Then put on a raised (insulated) roof, if possible.

I also see that some drill small holes and inject the foam between the joists, then patch up the holes. This is an option, but since I want to raise the roof, I'll take if from there.

I appreciate your helpful suggestions and information.
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