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Old 12-31-2016, 12:42 AM   #1
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Vinyl Trim Question

Hello,

We have a leak in our T1550 and are in the process of replacing the vinyl trim that covers the screws. It was completely missing from one side of the front and the other side was cracking and crumbling. I have looked at a lot of pictures but cannot tell if there should be vinyl trim over the screws around the door. If anyone can let me know if there should be trim there and what size/type it would be greatly appreciated. We tried using the same size that we used on the front but it would not fit or stay in the track. We are hoping that replacing the trim and re-caulking will stop the leak. Keeping our fingers crossed. Thanks for the help.
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File Type: jpg 20161105_145133_1483166238065.jpg (56.0 KB, 21 views)
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:11 AM   #2
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A good possibility you need Elixir style screw covers. I bought some off Amazon for my storage compartments. The trim around my doors looks like the same size.

Do you have a storage door with trim on it? If so you could take a piece out and see if it fits the door.

The trim I bought is about 1/2" wide. It's called JR Products 11371 Elixir style screw cover. I'd post a link but don't know how.
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
Hello,

We have a leak in our T1550 and are in the process of replacing the vinyl trim that covers the screws. It was completely missing from one side of the front and the other side was cracking and crumbling. I have looked at a lot of pictures but cannot tell if there should be vinyl trim over the screws around the door. If anyone can let me know if there should be trim there and what size/type it would be greatly appreciated. We tried using the same size that we used on the front but it would not fit or stay in the track. We are hoping that replacing the trim and re-caulking will stop the leak. Keeping our fingers crossed. Thanks for the help.
That trim is available in various widths and colors. You want the plastic trim to be wider than the aluminum strip. Squeeze it so that the edges slip into the corresponding slots on the aluminum strip. It should be well rounded rather than lay flat over the screw heads. Wherever the strip starts or ends on the trailer, it should be secured in place with a screw through it to prevent it from pulling out, and then covered with Dicor self leveling. You find metal caps made for that purpose. My Cougar has them. Best to install this in warmer weather so that the strip is flexible.

This stuff is used on most RV's in some way so you could look at almost any other brand to get a better idea of what I have described. It is NOT a Sunline exclusive item, far from it. And it can be purchased at most any RV parts counter or online source.
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:26 PM   #4
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Thanks for the response johnnybgood and Steve. I didn't think to look at the storage doors. I do not recall seeing any trim around those. It is possible that the trim on those are missing as well like the front. The previous owner painted over everything so I will have to look closer. Thanks again.
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:53 PM   #5
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Vinyl Trim Question

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Originally Posted by Steve Collins View Post
You want the plastic trim to be wider than the aluminum strip. Squeeze it so that the edges slip into the corresponding slots on the aluminum strip. It should be well rounded rather than lay flat over the screw heads.


My door, storage doors, and window trim is not rounded, it's flat. Mine just has the rounded vinyl screw trim on the outside corners and the rain gutter.

Also, the widow (Hehr) trim is brand specific. Different from the door and storage doors.

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Old 01-02-2017, 07:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
Hello,

We have a leak in our T1550 and are in the process of replacing the vinyl trim that covers the screws.
Snip...

We are hoping that replacing the trim and re-caulking will stop the leak. Keeping our fingers crossed. Thanks for the help.
Hi Thomascine,

Where is the leak you are trying to fix? Do you know yet? Have you seen a water path yet?

Reason for asking, while the vinyl trim cover helps keep "some" water out of certain areas of moldings etc and make it look nicer with no screw heads, it really does not seal out water. It is not intended to "seal" out water. Some time it traps water under it that later rusts/rots a path into the camper. The vinyl trim is a double edge sword. I myself have eliminated all the roofline vinyl but kept all the windows,doors, cargo hole, corners because of the water trapping behind it at the roof gutter. I covered the screws with Eternabond.

If you have water inside the camper, there is a pathway (aka hole) somehow/somewhere. This can be around a rusted out screw, cracks in sealant caulk etc.

If you give us some more info on the leak we may be able to point to the water intrusion areas to look closer at. Many times, the actual water entry can be way away from where you see it.

Do you have any idea how long the leak has been? Or did you just get the camper and inherited the problem?

Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:38 PM   #7
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Hi John,

We inherited the problem. We just acquired the camper back in October 2016. The leak that we have found so far is in the front of the camper. We are trying to correct anything that we see including missing vinyl trim and bad or missing caulking. I did see an area under the bottom of the front window that looks like a small gap in the caulking. Didn't see that until right before we covered the camper. There is damage in the back and front of the camper but the front is the worst and is where it is damp - the wall and floor under the dinette. If you are standing in the camper facing the dinette (front), most of the damage is right under the dinette and to the right of it under the seat. I hope this makes sense. I don't always explain things well.

Since there does not appear to be anywhere to put trim over the screws around the windows, I had considered using the eternabond. I saw a video on that product. It probably won't look pretty but will hopefully help prevent leaks.

Neither one of us knows anything about repairing a camper. A friend was supposed to help us but we never heard back from him so we are on our own. This Spring is going to be very interesting. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:43 PM   #8
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These are pics of the window and a couple of the compartments. There does not appear to be any trim over the screws around the windows. The screws around the compartments are not visible.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:17 PM   #9
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Yes, the windows should be covered with Hehr window trim. The go-to source for years was All-Rite in California. The trim has two extrusions on one side that hug the inner lip and snap on there. The outer extrusion just covers the end screws.

Seems their website is down at the moment, but this is it: http://www.all-rite.com/
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
The leak that we have found so far is in the front of the camper. We are trying to correct anything that we see including missing vinyl trim and bad or missing caulking.

I did see an area under the bottom of the front window that looks like a small gap in the caulking.

There is damage in the back and front of the camper but the front is the worst and is where it is damp - the wall and floor under the dinette. If you are standing in the camper facing the dinette (front), most of the damage is right under the dinette and to the right of it under the seat.

Since there does not appear to be anywhere to put trim over the screws around the windows, I had considered using the eternabond. I saw a video on that product. It probably won't look pretty but will hopefully help prevent leaks.
Hi Thomascine,

Your explanation was good, we can follow the big picture. It sounds like you inherited some water damage. And it sounds like it may be inside the walls. This is a problem as the insulation in the walls, floor or ceiling can get soaked and really cannot dry out very well, if at all by itself.

If you can, takes some inside pics, somewhat close up of the problem and then step back and take the whole wall areas. It is hard to tell from the limited info we have right now where the water is comeing in and it may be multiple places. Lower wall and floor areas can "sometimes" be the result of upper roof area seam leaks, front or rear corner connection leaks, or window /cargo hole areas. The water comes in up high, does some damage up there and then runs down to bottom and festers as it cannot get out.

Many times (most) you really may not know for sure until things comes apart how good or bad the problem is. I know you are wanting to stop the leak, but it sounds like from your description the damage inside the walls is already there. It ideally needs to get fixed as it will keep rotting even if you were lucky enough to find the water entry point.

I don't want to sound all gloom and doom, this is all fixable and we can help with the how to fix. A question to start with, do you have woodworking skills, even basics ones and wood tools, again basic ones as a starter? Or a family member who does that can help with wood skills? If the answer is yes, then this makes this much more doable at lower cost. Hiring this kind of work out can be costly. Not so much for the materials, but the labor at rates of $70 to $110/hr.

On the windows and the Eternabond, in this case, ideally that is not a good way to go. We can show you how to reseal a window for less than $10 worth of materials. You pull out the window unit from the camper, and change the sealing tape between the camper and the window. And while it is out, you can see if there is rotting sill wood and start to get a handle on how good or bad the situation is. Fix the rotted wood and then reseal the window with butyl sealing tape. Then, you can add the vinyl trim insert. May have to dig out all the paint in there from the prior owner. This post has a reply I did with pics of doing a window pull and reseal. This is a much newer camper, but yours still mounts in the camper in a similar way. You can at least see how involved or not a window pull and reseal is. 2005 T-1950 Front Window Leak

I did not want to mislead you on the Eternabond. It is good stuff and there is a place to use it. But if you have rotted wood, that changes things a lot too. This post shows the preventative work I did on my roof, and to use Eternabond to my advantage over relying solely on Dicor sealants. Also, my roof is a rubber roof, yours is a metal roof and seals up differently so it all may not apply to your camper.

Eternabond Roof Seal Tape on a Sunline (Lots of pics)

The gutter rails on most all RV's is too small in my opinion. We do we camp as camping folks? Out in the woods. Small twigs, pine needles, dirt etc gets in from normal camping. Then the rains come. The gutter being too small even when not partly clogged, overflows or fills up. Water gets behind the vinyl screw strip and festers. Then mold starts and the screws heads start to rust, then water starts wicking into the camper around the rusted screws. This takes time to happen. Sometimes many years, other times, well in 3 to 4 years time given the right conditions, it can start. Here are some pics of this.







The infancy stages of the screw rusting


We have many folks on the forum repair rotted wood. Old and newer campers. And many have pictures to help so you can see what your in for.

We are here to help, show us some inside pics and we can maybe help better where to go looking and how.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:53 PM   #11
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Hi John,


Thanks for the information. I spoke to a friend today who suggested, given the cold weather, to run a heater in the camper to help dry it out as the floor is still wet under the dinette area. Don't know if it is a good idea but had planned to try it this weekend. I also planned to take out the seats as well so that we can get a good view of that area. Unfortunately, it is dark when we get home from work and we do not live in the best of areas. Otherwise, I could get the seats out after work. I will try to take pictures this weekend once the seats are out.


The videos that I saw for eternabond used it on the roof around vents along with dicor self-leveling. I wasn't sure if it could be used around windows. Thanks for letting us know not to do that. I have seen videos on using the butyl tape. There is a nice series on youtube of this couple that completely redid their camper. They did a great job! They videoed their whole process - 19 videos total.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:24 PM   #12
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Hi Thomascine,

Your tool supply is good. With the right creativeness you can fix up most all things. So that is good news!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
We only have basic tools - couple of circular saws, a jigsaw, a rotary tool, drills, nail gun, and of course hammers, screwdrivers, etc. I think we may have an electric grinder somewhere in the garage. Our electric sander stopped working. I think that's it. If you have any suggestions of what else we may need, please let me know.

Starting to feel a bit overwhelmed.
Don't feel overwhelmed, you may just need to reset your expectations a little. Time to fix is something that will be hard to predict until you know better what the extent of the issue is, can some of the repair wait to later and which you really may not want to before you use the camper. As you said, this spring will be interesting... A lot of these rebuilds have been fun and some not, but once you get out and camp in a fix you did that is good, the bad times fad away. Camping can and has been known to be addictive!

This is all fixable, the question still to be answered is, how good or bad is the situation? No rush on our end, when ever you can get info to us, we are here. There are many of us who have had to deal with water damage and we are willing to help as we can.

Drying out the camper is good, if you can, just be carefull on heaters they do not overheat and far enough away they are not a burn potential. When I had my slide floor rot damage, it was below freezing for a good while. The rot froze actually and it did not advance any due to that. It bought me some time, until I could get to it. Last year we had to redo my sons camper roof, (here is a link A Winter Project - Roof Repair (Picture heavy) it tooks us several months but now he has a very sound and long life camper. Better then new in some places.

So, do not worry if you cannot get it all dried out right now. This issue has been ongoing a long time, water entry like this does not normally happen all at once unless a major one time event happened. Falling tree, backing into something etc. Most of the time, by the time you can see the water damage inside, it could of been festering in the wall etc for over a year. It all depends on how fast the leak was. Many are very slow seepers.

John
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Old 01-04-2017, 08:46 PM   #13
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Roof

Thanks John.

Can you or anyone tell me how we can tell the type of roof is on our camper. In the ad, the previous owner stated that a new rubber roof was installed in 2015 but I have come to realize that not everything he said is accurate. And what type of seal we should use on it. Trying to plan ahead. Thanks.
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Old 01-07-2017, 08:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Thanks John.

Can you or anyone tell me how we can tell the type of roof is on our camper. In the ad, the previous owner stated that a new rubber roof was installed in 2015 but I have come to realize that not everything he said is accurate. And what type of seal we should use on it. Trying to plan ahead. Thanks.
Hi Thomascine,

It is hard to tell from that one picture you posted what type of roof that is. It looked to be wavy enough it "might" be a metal roof with possibly a coating of some kind applied over it. Maybe the prior owner meant, they applied a new rubber coating on the roof in 2015. If that is the case, they sort of painted on the coating over the original metal roof. Not necessarily tore off all the metal and put a real new rubber roof on. But it might be they did.

If yours is a metal roof under whatever is on top, there would be left to right seams across the camper roof. I do not know the panel width that Sunline used, it might be 12", 18" or 24" or maybe something less. Each panel interlocks with the next panel to progress down the length of the roof. Look to see if there are many of those seems across the roof. (again left to right across the width of the camper seems.) Maybe one of our older camper folks can tell us what they have. I have not had to repair a metal roof like I have the newer rubber roofs so I am not 100% sure of the metal sizes.

If they did convert the roof from the original metal roof to a true rubber roof, then they had to put some form of substrate over the rafters to be able to glue the rubber on with. We have no idea what that might be, it could be 1/8" luan board or thin 1/4" or thicker plywood of sorts.

They would of then glued a rubber membrane down on the plywood etc. The membrane is an actual sheet rubber. Looks like this in the box


When put down on the roof, it is one long sheet (normally) from front to back. There are no seams. It is all smooth. This pics shows a portion of the top of a rubber roof. All the other pics I had were so bright white you couldn't tell but a big white blob....


A heads up regardless of metal or rubber roof. Odds are high the roof is "not" a direct walk on roof. Meaning there is not heavy plywood under it that will support your weight walking on it. You will fall right through it. Many if not most Sunlines are made this way. The roof will support snow loads etc, but not people walking loads unless precautions are taken to spread the weight out.

How this is done is: There are rafters on the roof on 16" centers generally. Over these rafters is the thinner substrate material that the roof is then laid over the top.

To service items on the roof, a tarp, carpet, cardboard etc is laid down on a rubber roof to protect it from abrasion.

Then manageable size plywood sheets are placed over the top to span the rafters. Then you can walk on the added plywood sheets. I use 2 ft x 4 ft sheets over a canvas tarp. The thickness that I have is 1/2" and one of them 3/4". You only need a minimum of 3/8, but I used what I had.

The metal roof would use a similar approach with the plywood sheets on top spanning the rafters. Feel the roof, you can feel the stiffer support of the rafter location underneath.

See here on mine

Use a good solid sturdy ladder on a good surface so you do not fall getting on and off.


Here is up on the roof


Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:11 PM   #15
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Thanks John.

It appears that we probably have a metal roof. It looks like those ripples and waves go all the way to the back. I can make out two rows of screws in the picture, one at the front of the camper and another at the AC unit. That helps.

Thanks again.

Tommie
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Old 01-15-2017, 06:12 PM   #16
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Water Damage

Good evening,

Well, I was finally able to get out and take some pics of the water damage. Focused on the front because it seems to be worse than the back. I was unable to get the dinette seats out. Couldn't get the screws out. I thought they were stripped phillip heads but later found out they are some other type, not phillip or flat. In any case, I can't get the seats out right now. I have a kit around here somewhere that has some other bits. Did manage to take some pics of the water damage. Posted some here. The rest are in the photos area. It looks pretty bad to me.

Thanks,
Tommie
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File Type: jpg 7_2 RightFront.JPG (84.4 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 6_2 FrontCenter.JPG (86.2 KB, 12 views)
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Old 01-15-2017, 06:49 PM   #17
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Hi Tommie,

Sadly, what you found has been seen before.

It looks like the front walls and floor are affected. Odds exist it may be in the some of the sides up front as well. You won't know until you get into it further.

The bit you are looking for is a no. 2 square bit. They look like this. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2212...o+2+square+bit

Here is a pic on the web I found of the screws so you know what it looks like


Most all lumber yards and hardware stores have them. Those square head screws are all over the camper... you will use that bit a lot.

I'm trying to find the right words on how to say this and not discourage you, all what you have shown us is fixable, but it will take time and a fair amount of it. If you are going to rebuild it, I suggest you need to try and find the source/sources of where the water came in. Otherwise all your good new work to fix it can get reinfected. All the rotted parts need to come out and you work towards getting it back to good solid wood. Some rotted parts may be able to be cut out and joined onto good wood left, others it may make more sense to replace the whole wood part.

From your pics, you are seeing the floor and lower front wall is damaged. This could be from a window sill leaking down or it could be coming in from up high, like the camper corners or the roof area. The floor ends up being the collection tub. Whatever is up, ends up down. You will know more once you start going up the wall some more.

If you decide you want to tackle this, we are here to help on the "how to". We have a good number of us with pics, on how we rebuilt a water damaged camper.

The best of luck to you in whatever your decision is.

John
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Old 01-15-2017, 07:05 PM   #18
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Hi John,

Yep, those are the screws. I didn't have my reading glasses outside with me so I took a picture and looked at it when I came inside.

At this point, I just don't know. Maybe once the project is started, I will feel better about it. I have lost hope on getting it repaired in time for camping this year. We are newbies and work full-time so it will take us much longer to get it done than those with more experience. Trying not to get discouraged.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 04-09-2017, 03:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnybgood View Post
A good possibility you need Elixir style screw covers. I bought some off Amazon for my storage compartments. The trim around my doors looks like the same size.

Do you have a storage door with trim on it? If so you could take a piece out and see if it fits the door.

The trim I bought is about 1/2" wide. It's called JR Products 11371 Elixir style screw cover. I'd post a link but don't know how.


Thank you! I needed to know about this molding.


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