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Old 05-11-2017, 07:04 PM   #41
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Yes it is ok to land the green and frame ground to the same lug as long as it is bonded to the converter frame. Don't worry about the amps it could be 80 and not bother any thing.
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:33 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vcrt View Post
He said which type I use is up to me, just make sure to allow adequate space around the cooling fan (I'm mounting it in the old WFCO housing where there is about 2" on each side and about 1-1/2" above and I'm placing it with the heat sink towards the vent on front cover which means the fan will be up front and to the right side of the heat sink).
Hi Rich,

Thanks for the feedback from PD. Good to always hear what they have to say. Mainah answered the grounding bar question and I'm good with that too.

The heat thing though, I just reread their manual on line to see if it it changed from mine. It really does not say a lot about what is the right clearance for heat dissipation.

I cannot tell from the words on if what you are proposing will work for heat dissipation. It sounds good, but I can't see it to know. The fan needs an adequate opening on fan side of the heat sink and the discharge side of the heat sink so air can be drawn across the heat sink. You seem to have good clearance all the way around, but you did not say if the air suction side of the heat sink was open to allow air to get in. It seems you are keeping the thoughts of the need intact which is good along with at least some extra space around the unit.

This converter is really quite. You will not hear much at all. And unless you are charging a dead battery and running almost all DC in the camper at once, the unit may never get close to a full 60 amps. That is OK, but what I am bringing up is, some time down the road you may have a situation where you have a large current draw. This will kick the fan into high enough to try and cool the unit. If it can't cool the system then it is smart enough to start lowering the output capacity to not over heat. This may make you think something is not right. Just be aware of it that is does this to not overheat. And if it does, well then you need to get more air volume around it.

Here is the feature I'm talking about from the manual.

Quote:
THERMAL PROTECTION ... If an over temperature condition should occur due to air flow obstruction or improper installation, the INTELI-POWER 9200 senses the condition and decreases power output until the unit returns to normal operating temperature. The converter will return to full output capacity as it cools down.
I myself self since I installed mine have never pulled full power on the unit. By going to LED's and recharging my 2, Grp 27 batteries before 50% discharge, I just never use 60 amps worth. I doubt you will have an issue, just a heads up in case it ever comes up.

You will like the performance of this converter. It also has a desulfate mode which the WFCO did not. Your batteries will like that feature.

Thanks

John
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:25 AM   #43
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Later on, when I get a chance, I'm going to post some photos of the finished installation because a picture is worth a thousand words.

I see one heavier bare copper wire connected with all the other bare copper ground wires to the grounding bar inside the old power center housing. I followed this heavier wire out the back of the housing to where I couldn't see it anymore, somewhere on the floor near the L/S rear wheel. I looked under the camper expecting to see it come out of the floor to connect to some ground on the chassis, but being dark and wet outside, I didn't try very hard to find it. I'm thinking this is the ground wire that grounds that bar to the camper chassis.

So, my two ground wires, one from the converter chassis and the other from the female connector I installed are both secured to this bar.

The plug wire coming from the converter is probably about 2-3 feet long and I have it coiled up on top of the converter, but I think I may cut a hole hole at the rear of the housing to move it outside of the housing to maximize air space around the converter.

John, thanks for providing the information on the overheating safeguards they built in, that's good to know.

Now, I'm glad these hurdles have been cleared in time for some camping, next stop-Assateague where the ponies roam free!
(And who knows, we might just need the furnace with the way the weathers been.)
Rich
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:52 AM   #44
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The cooling fans are quite efficient more often than not they are in a dead air space as there is not a lot of choices. I have a ton of ham radio gear that all have forced air cooling two are under the seat of my truck been there for several years so I guess what I'm saying they are over engineered knowing they will be in a harsh environment. Just don't block either end or put and thing on top of it. I agree with John B you probably will never hear the fan, 60 amps DC is a pretty good charge of current more than what you will ever use unless your battery is quite low. I set up our radio clubs communications trailer using a single battery and a 60 amp converter we run two HF radios that together draw 44 amps so between the battery supplying power and the converter there is no lack of power and unless you are fairly close the converter (mounted on a wall) you don't hear the fan.
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:27 AM   #45
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Thanks Mainah, sounds like it should be OK the way it is.
Here's the photos:

The entire housing


A closeup of the cooling fan


I drilled some holes and removed a few pieces of plastic from the inside of the front cover to allow more air inside


Thanks again for all the help,
Rich
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Old 05-12-2017, 01:21 PM   #46
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Rich,

Your right, a picture is worth a million words....

That conversion came out well. I did not know the heat sink was right across the front. I had in my mind it being 90 degree rotated. Your added air holes are good too.

The upgrade came out looking real well.

That heavy solid ground wire ends up on the frame somewhere. I forget where on my T-2499 it is. Ideally try and find it. Sometimes the connection to the frame gets corroded up pretty bad. They use copper lugs with plated steel screws. The screw rots in time.

Now to get out camping!

This was a good post. Thanks for sharing.

John
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