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Old 10-23-2011, 05:09 PM   #1
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Those darn valves

Help please. Dedicated time today to winterizing my T1950-2004. Already blew the lines out with air. Drew in antifreeze with line from pump but it kept disappearing. I know on some valves, the handle goes parallel with the flow. Apparently, on my one valve by-pass system, it does not go that way but still, the antifreeze is being diverted into the water htr no matter which way the handle on the valve is aligned. I drove 14k miles this summer with our rig and no plumbing problems. Why would a valve fail now, or am I just having a mental lapse? Thanks for any help.
John in NH
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:59 PM   #2
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First, double check that all the taps and both hot and cold low point drains are closed. The low point valves especially are confusing as they turn 180*. You should label one side of these valve handles so you can see on/off at a glance.

Finally, I vaguely recall there is back flow valve that is part of the hot water tank, but I can't find the post that discusses that failure. Someone else like Steve or John will likely be along with some detail. I don't think the bypass valve is your problem. That kind of part shouldn't fail unless the handle breaks off.

Henry
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:22 PM   #3
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I think this might be it--maybe Gary or one of the participants can confirm.

hot water stopped running

Henry
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:33 PM   #4
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Thank you Henry. Will look into that check valve tomorrow. I wasn't aware of it and just could not believe the bypass was the issue. The hot and cold dump valves are both closed so sounds like you have directed me to the right solution.
John
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:02 PM   #5
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Hi jbinnh

As Henry stated, the check valve on the top outlet can be the problem. (Where the red hose comes out) It gets stuck open and will not close up allowing anti freeze to flow back into the HW heater.

Some times a tap on the check will seat it. Other times you have to undo the outlet hose fitting, move it aside and then push the check back by hand.

It is for this one reason the older 2 vavle bypass system worked better. Yes it cost a few bucks more and you had to make sure all valves went the right way but at least it always worked. When I used to do the pink stuff winterize I had this problem often. In my case it would shut after a few quarts went in. Seems minerals get the check stuck open and you never notice a problem until it comes to winterizing.

Good luck and hope this helps

John

PS here are pic of one of my 2004 Sunlines HW heater setups. Yours is most likley just like this.







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Old 10-24-2011, 12:21 PM   #6
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I just finished the project and you guys were right on with the check valve. I removed the bed and deck for easier access and took out the existing valve which worked somewhat. Sometimes I could not blow thru it and othertimes, if the plunger was askew just a little, I could push a little air thru. Rather than wonder, I just replaced it ($19 at the campground store a few miles down the road). Cheap peace of mind I feel.
Thank you very much.
John
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:33 PM   #7
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Glad it all worked out. And thanks for reporting back. We can now add you to the list of clogged up check valves.... LOL Welcome to the club
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