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Old 04-07-2012, 06:20 PM   #1
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T260SR Slideout problem

Hi All,

I'm a new member with a 2002 T260SR problem that's recently occurred. Since I am now in the west and nowhere near a dealer that would be familiar w/ Sunlines, I'm happy to have discovered this site.

I have searched and read previous slideout posts and it seems as though JohnB, moderator, is the slideout expert so I hope that he or another member can give me some insight.

My slideout problem is this: once the slide goes to full out, there is a gap on both the right and left side walls at where they meet the floor. I can get my fingers into it, particularly on the left side, and can also feel air flow. As you go up the wall the gap narrows until at the top of the slide room it is completely closed - i.e. the top of the slideout is completely flush with the wall. On the outside, everything looks good: the walls are tight against the seal/gasket. I have checked the interior for level by first putting a carpenter's level on the galley counter top. It is level front/back and side/side. I then put the level on the dinette table with the slide fully extended and the table is level front/back and side/side.

Thanks for any thoughts.
Jim
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:03 PM   #2
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Hi Jim and Jan! Welcome to the club!

It's quite possible, that your slide is simply a bit out of adjustment. If you click this link, you will see where the adjustment needs to be made. If you decide to do the adjustment yourself, be very careful to not adjust it much at a time. I would think that your slide might need to extend just a bit more, to allow the bottom to fully seal.

I'm sure JohnB will be along, to further explain the process.
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:01 PM   #3
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JimJan,

Welcome to the group. Several of our members know these Sunlines "inside & out", so it probably won't take long before you will be able to fix your slide-out.

Pictures, we REALLY like to see pictures of Sunlines, so if you can post some, we'd really enjoy them.

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Old 04-07-2012, 09:16 PM   #4
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Hi Jim,

I'll try and help but need some info. Trying to follow your description of the problem. It is like this? or something elese

Top touches


Bottom there is a large gap


Also your 2002 unit, any chance you know if it is a Barker slide mechanism or a Lippert? Somewhere around 2001/2002 they changed from the Barker to the Lippert unit. Really need to know which one you have to better give you what to look for.

The Barker looks like this.



The Lippert looks like this




Any chance of some pics of what you are seeing? Need to make sure we understand the right problem and need to know what slide mechanism you have.

How long have you had this camper and how long has this issue be ongoing?

Hope this helps and welcome to Sunline Owners Club

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Old 04-09-2012, 09:06 AM   #5
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Hi John,

Yes, the slideout problem is as in your pictures. However, the gap at the bottom is not as large as in your illustrations. I don’t know which slideout mechanism is installed; I will need to crawl underneath and make a visual. Since the unit is stored remotely, that will not happen immediately so I will need to post a response in that regard at a later date.

This is our second Sunline and we took delivery of it brand new exactly 10 years ago. I discovered the alignment problem last winter when I had to hunker down in an unexpected Sierra Nevada snowstorm. However, it has made 3 cross-country trips and, because we use it infrequently now (although we did live in it “full-time” for five months in 2003) and only during dry western summers the issue may date back several years.

Jim
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:00 PM   #6
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Hi Jim,

I will wait until you can confirm the make of slide mechanism before we start adjusting so the wording fits better to what you are looking at.

OK so now we know some more about your slide situation. You had the camper since new, so this is not a used TT new to you and unknown things occurred to it.

If I understand it right you have an approx "equal" gap on both ends of the slide at the bottom. If I have this wrong point this out, please confirm.

Since the gap is the same, we can so far assume on the Lippert that the rack and pinnion drive under the unit is not out of phase between the master rack and the slave rack. Or on the Barker that the the front or rear rack has not slipped in relation to each other. Odds of both sides jumping teeth at the same time are not high.

Since you had the camper since new, I'm going to assume this has not always been this way from day 1. Can you confirm this even if it was 5 years ago you noticed it being correct? I'm just confirming the unit was made right from the factory and at one time did work right. This then leads to something wore or became loose and you are now out of adjustment.

OK so now what "might" cause this? Here are some thoughts to look at next time you are at the camper. I am making an assumption your slide is built like mine in this regard. If this does not fit, report back what is different.

Sunline used the approach to have the flush floor slide floor lift up off the carpet on the way in. Not all TT makers do this, generally the higher end ones do it this way. You can see inside there is a lot of air under the slide when retracted.


They do this by starting out building the slide on purpose to not be a total rectangular box. When the slide is full out you can see the top is narrower then the bottom by about 2 to 3". I forgot the exact number of mine. Here you can see it.


As the slide retracts in there is a cam trough on the floor of the camper that when the slide comes in it lifts up the slide floor. Here is the 2003/2004 vintage trough. Yours might be like this too.




As the slide continues in the slide pops up on an angle, now sort of looks more plumb on the outside wall, but not totally yet and keeps riding up hill into the camper. Like this.




You can now see the top is closer and will touch first as we close.




Now fully closed and the bottom draws up tight and inside the slide floor is up off the carpet.


When the slide goes out, it does this action in reverse. You keep extending until the top inside touches first. Like this.




And when the top reaches the touch point, the bottom has a gap like this.


As the slide keeps going out it is suppose to reach the end of slide actuator stroke at the same time the lower part of the slide touches the wall. The Lippert slide motor drive will ratchet. The clutch goes clunk clunk clunk and you let go of the button. This area is where the issue seems to be. That last 1" or 1/2" of travel is not making it out all the way.

What are "some" possible causes? These are based on the limited info we have so far.

1. The slide actuator has moved on it's mount and is no longer going out as far as it use too. On the Lippert, Jam nut 2 could be loose, backed off and not pushing the slide out all the way. You would see the gap here between jam nut 2 and the plate. The nylock nut is used to pull the slide in. Jam nut 2 pushes the slide out. Both are to be tight agasint the plate between them. Do not move the nylock nut as that will affect the "in" or retract motion. Moving the jam nut 2 will change the out or extend motion if this joint is loose.


2. This one is a little more radical but I have seen it on a friends camper. The slide mechanism was not adjusted right or lost adjustment and has broke the wall loose from the bottom of the camper floor over time. This is the wall is actually loose at the bottom. With the slide 1/2 way out, push and pull on the bottom of the wall of the camper frame at the slide. If it is rock solid, good. If it is mush, that is a problem. Odds of this are low, but not beyond impossible.

Number 1 above is very possible if this is a Lippert slide. Jam nut 2 coming loose will affect both ends of the slide touching as while the actuator went full stroke the slide did not.

Question: Does your slide retract in all the way nice and tight?

Look around for the slide not going out all the way underneath. Take pics too, this really helps verse me doing this out of theory.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:14 PM   #7
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Hi John,

Thanks for the detailed sequence of photos above. I have included some in response. In order 1 – 6 they show 1) the outside nice and tight against the trailer bulkhead; 2) the slide motor(Lippert); 3) the rear slide rail extended (probably not pertinent but included anyway); 4) the front slide rail and stop can; 5) the bottom of the slideout inside the trailer when retracted (the bottom left corner of the slideout when looking at it from the trailer entry door); and 6) the top left corner of the slide out when extended. Unfortunately, shots of the bottom left/right corners when the slide was extended were overexposed so not shown here (I’m using an old digital camera that has no preview). I did measure the gap that we have been discussing and it’s approximately 1.5 inches from the inside bulkhead to the back of the slideout’s fascia. That is pretty much true for both left and right bottom corners although the right inside bottom corner gap might be closer to 1.25 inches.

Yes, the slideout extends till one hears the click-click-click and yes it retracts tight as I pictured above. About all that I can add is that while crawling around under the trailer to take pictures I noted that Jamnut-1 is flush against Jamnut-2. From what you have said above, that makes me wonder if Jamnut-1 needs to be moved so that it stands off from Jamnut-2.


[Edit] Whoa. Attached .jpeg files didn't come out as I'd anticipated. However, I think if you click on the first, the exterior shot, then you have the option of going from one thumbnail to the next.

Jim
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1.jpg (43.3 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (31.2 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 3.jpg (26.0 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 4.jpg (37.2 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 5.jpg (24.0 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 6.jpg (16.7 KB, 14 views)
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimJan View Post
Hi John,

I did measure the gap that we have been discussing and it’s approximately 1.5 inches from the inside bulkhead to the back of the slideout’s fascia. That is pretty much true for both left and right bottom corners although the right inside bottom corner gap might be closer to 1.25 inches.

Yes, the slideout extends till one hears the click-click-click and yes it retracts tight as I pictured above. About all that I can add is that while crawling around under the trailer to take pictures I noted that Jamnut-1 is flush against Jamnut-2. From what you have said above, that makes me wonder if Jamnut-1 needs to be moved so that it stands off from Jamnut-2.

Jim
Hi Jim,

Well some good news. Yours and mine are made about the same and now I can better help give pointers on what to look for. Also learned that some of the 2002 super slides are on the Lippert system.

Your pics are a little hard to go by but I see some things.

First is this one. I had to down load your pic, blow it up and then post on my photo site so you can see it.

This pic shows the slide being "lower" then the main camper when retracted. Look at the siding. The white and gold do not align with the slide and the main camper. This points to the slide being low. Just hold that thought as while this is an observation it may not be a big problem, yet.


Now look at the slave rack side. Glad you included this.


That fuzzy picture shows what "appears" to be a rust witness line above the slave rack end bracket. Question: Did anywhere in this campers life did those 1/2" bolts loosen up, the slide drop down and someone put it back up again? Just asking as this "might" explain the slide being low. It was not raised high enough when put back up. Before you adjust anything here, lets talk more.

OK now to the problem that brought you here. The bottom of the slide not sealing up when you extend out.

Wish we had another side pic of this looking straight on to the side of it "and" when the camper is fully retracted in. Need to see the relationship of the stop can to the side of the camper.



This is what I see from this one limited fuzzy pic and what you have told us.

  • The slide is "not" physically extending full out creating the gap at the bottom inside the camper.
  • Both the left and right bottom side inside the camper have about the same gap.
  • Your stop can and the end of the master rack lock nuts relationship do not look normal. But I cannot tell 100% as there is no pic of the camper slide closed
You are going to have to back into this from these thoughts of what "might" be wrong. Here see mine and a buddies of mine.





Here is a close up. This is mine


And here is the same slide mechanism on a Skyline camper.


Your slide is not extending all the way out and it is now questionable if the stop can and jam nut 2 and th3 nylock nut are in the right location. Sorry I do not have a pic on the inside looking at the jam nuts directly but if needed I can go take one and post.

You can see on mine here, that the stop can and the plate that the jam nuts go up against are not on top of each other like yours seem to be. The Skyline camper also shows them spread apart more too.


You need to confirm your stop can and the jam nuts are in the correct adjustment location as it "appears" they are not and this may be the issue not allowing your slide to fully extend.

First some understanding of the slide mechanism.

  • Your vintage slide mechanism uses the full "out" stroke the acme screw system has. When you reach the end of stroke, the clutch goes clunk clunk clunk and that is all the "out" stroke you have.
  • Since there is no more "out" stroke left, the slide must be adjusted so that the slide touches the inside seals of the camper when you run out of stroke. The 2 events need to happen at the same time. If not the slide will not fully seal to the camper open and there is no more stroke left.
  • The retract or "in" of the slide does not run out of stroke. There is more actuator stroke left then there is slide travel. There may be approx 4 to 6" more stroke even. The slide when retracting "in" stops when the slide flanges compress up against the side of the camper. It compresses the rubber seals and is tight to the camper. The motor drive runs out of power and just plan stops. Some may ratchet the clutch but many do not on the way in, they just run out of power and stall with the slide tight to the camper.
  • Next is the infamous stop can. This comes into play on the "in" stroke but is "not" the hard stop that is suppose to stop the retract travel. The slide seals and slide flange stop the slide on the way in. The stop can is to be adjusted to just kiss the frame "once" the slide seals have fully compressed. Lippert does not want the stop can to be the main "in" stop as then your seals can leak or the slide will not be fully closed. I called them and confirmed this operation.

Now to check the slide system and find out what is not correctly adjusted OR you have a motor mounting problem. See this Lippert manual for more help but is does not totally explain the issue you are seeing.
http://lippertcomponents.com/images/...ideout-web.pdf

Read all the way to the end of my note before adjusting.

Start with the slide closed fully. If you can take a picture showing the stop can location and jam nut 2 and nylock nut when fully closed I can see what you have.

Since you stated the slide is up tight nice against the camper this is good but we do not know what is creating this stop. The slide flanges on the camper or the stop can adjusted not right. Start by measuring the stop can location in relation to the end of the threaded rod. Also measure the end of the threaded rod to the metal tab on the master rack that jam nut 2 and the nylock nut are up against. You are potentially going to adjust all these features and now you know where you started in case you have to go back to this.

Jog the slide out about 6". Have someone inside close the slide and watch the stop can and the slide flanges/seals when you reach the full in position. The stop can should just kiss the frame after the seals are compressed and in the last ounce of strength the motor system has. This may or may not be right. Yours may be right but the jam nut 2 and nylock nut relationship might be wrong. If the stop can is doing a lot of stopping, back it off a little, jog the slide out, re close, let the seals compress and then spin the stop can in until the kisses the frame and lock in place.

OK now you know the "in" is correct but the "out" is most likely not right. Run the slide out. Have someone inside pushing the button and you watch. When you hear the end of stroke clunks from the clutch that is all the stroke you have but the slide may not be out all the way.

This is where I belie your problem is.


Loosen jam nut 2 and the nylock nut on the end of the thread rod. Keep backing off the nylock nut some and then use jam nut 2 to pull the slide out some more. Remember the actuator is at the end of stroke and the only way to extend the slide more is by changing the relationship of the nylock nut and jam nut 2. If you are 1 1/4" short inside that is the amount you need to move this. It looks by your pic you have lots of extra threaded rod hanging out which is not normal. Do not over do this adjustment, the seals inside need to touch and compress to be tight but that is it. If you over do this, then in time that massive jacking agasint the wall can raise havoc on the wall and in some case break the lower wall free. Tighten both of these nuts tight agasint the master rack tab plate.

Now try it again to fully open and close the slide. It should stop out in the right location and stop in, in the correction location.

Odds are high this is your problem.

But... not being there to look for other things this could be the problem.

  • The thread rod shaft that screws into the end of the slide actuator may have come loose. I doubt it but not beyond impossible. When jam nut 2 and the nylock nut are tight the threaded shaft cannot turn and as such it cannot back out of the actuator. Well normally anyway. Look at the end of the actuator for any witness lines or that the thread are all messed up where it screws into the actuator.

The motor is attached to the camper by trunnion lugs. You can see here as mine where bent when I bought it used.


Check that everything is tight up at this end. Odds are high it is, but just checking.

And 3rd that something is not jammed in the gear teeth creating really high forced to trip the clutch early.

If it was indeed Jam nut 2 and the nylock where just out of phase with where it was suppose to be and they where tight to when you came to start this adjustment procedure, then this has been this way a long time. Look for dirt witness markes on the threaded rod of where it was suppose to be in the area after you adjusted it. If the actuator all checks out then it was just adjusted in the wrong stop location.

Hope all this helps. Tried to break it down so you can follow it and understand what it is you want to end up with. The biggest issue of adjusting the slide is not knowing what you are suppose to end up with and what adjustment does what.

John
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:55 AM   #9
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Slider Repair info

Jim and John, Thanks for all the detailed information on slider repair. We (Judy and I) have a 2004 Solaris T320SR which Judy's son bought new and towed to a campground on the MA/NY border where it stayed until October of 2011 when we had it towed to a campground in Springwater,NY. We set the trailer up and put the slider out without incident. However, we were unable to pull the slider in by using either the electric motor or the hand crank. We pulled the slider in with wrenches and covered the trailer for the winter. Last week, we hired Rick to help diagnose and repair the slider mechanism. He found the shaft end had broken near the motor end. Neither he nor we knew where to look for replacement parts for a Sunline Coach. Yesterday, I found the Owners Club online and joined up right away. I started to look for a thread on slider repair and was amazed to see Jim's post. When I started to read the thread and saw your detailed and carefully patient posts, John B, I knew I was in the right place! Thanks to you both I learned about the Lippert Electric Slideout System and Rick and I will be talking to them this week to get the part or parts we need to repair our slider. Thank you, thank you, thank you both!!!
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:43 AM   #10
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Hi Johnshipherd,

First off, Welcome to Sunline Owners Club. This is the place for Sunline info and camping friends. Since the factory closed we are a self help group now. And there is not too much someone on the forum has not been into. We are also much more then a help you get it going club. We have ralleys, talk about just about everything camping related. So join the fun once you get past you current problem.

Now to your slide

Odds are high that a slide sitting a real long time, in or out, the slide seals will stick themselves hard to the camper. And rust on the slide mechanism binding it up is not beyond impossible either if it has been many years extended out. And the motor cannot pull it or out.

In the cases of stuck slide seals, pushing on the top of the slide while trying to move the bottom may help break the seals free. This occurs in the spring after a long winters nap trying to extend the slide. Inside the camper, push on the top of the slide while the motor is trying to move the bottom. Your push will help break free the stuck seals. I have never tried one stuck out before. If you use 303 UV protectant on the seals before closing the camper up, it helps come next spring to not stick so hard.

See this post along with pics of the inside of the clutch system in your 2004 slide system.

Slide Room Wouldn’t Extend – sheared pins

Hope this helps and good luck.

John
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:29 PM   #11
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Hi John,

Long time no talkie. I have finally been able to move our trailer to a place where it could be worked on and so I tackled the slideout issue today. The short version is that thanks to your pictures and comprehensive explanation my problem is solved. I just spent about 45 minutes mostly under the slideout. The complete solution required that I move the Nylock nut outboard, followed by moving Jamnut 2 outboard and then snugging both up against the slideplate. Then the slideout had to be leveled front to back by adjusting the master and slave racks at their end brackets.

Thanks again for great input.

Jim
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:10 PM   #12
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Jim and John - About 6 weeks ago I tried to order the Lippert System Actuator part I think we need for the slider on our 2004 Solaris T320SR. It turns out this part is not so easy to come by. My repair guy, Rick, told me yesterday he was able to find one. I will let you know how the repairs work out!

John
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:50 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by johnshipherd View Post
Jim and John - About 6 weeks ago I tried to order the Lippert System Actuator part I think we need for the slider on our 2004 Solaris T320SR. It turns out this part is not so easy to come by. My repair guy, Rick, told me yesterday he was able to find one. I will let you know how the repairs work out!

John
Hi John,

Thanks for the info. What part are you looking for? Your 2004 unit and mine are the same. I can find most parts on the Lippert site or from Venture here in Dayton Ohio.

This link should take you to them.

Lippert Components, Inc Shopping Cart

Then go to RV Part and Acces

Then go to select which parts you need.

If you need the gear motor, need to know which gear ratio you have. 18:to 1 or 24:1. I have that somewhere...Have to look it up if you need it.

Let's compare notes on what your guy found.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:50 PM   #14
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Jim,

Glad you fixed your slide and now good to go. Thanks for reporting back too. We all learn from the things.

John
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