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Old 03-12-2016, 06:55 AM   #1
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T1350 Wheel Bearings

Does anyone know the correct part numbers for the wheel bearings (inner and outer), races and dust seals for the T1350? Sorry, no offshore allowed only proper brand names.

Last year, one of my tires ended up being feathered. Not knowing the real cause I took it to my trusted spring shop.

They checked the wheel balance and proved a wheel weight had been thrown and when that happened the wheel balance was flopping all over the place.
They said the main cause for the wheel weight to fly off in the first place was due to the wrong wheel bearings and races being installed at some point. There were no ID or part number associated with these bearings and we both agreed that a previous tech may have installed off-shore bearings.
(just to save a buck?)

The incorrect bearings and races may have been thinner/shallower causing the castle nut not to tighten to the proper torque. That castle nut has a limited setting and can be under torqued or over torqued. The castle nut has a choice of an either/or hole to match to the axle. My proper torque ended up in between two holes.
I can do the bearing and race repair myself but have no idea what the correct part number(s) would be.

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:19 AM   #2
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NAPA or in your case Canadian Tire should have them in a complete kit seals bearings cotter pin the entire works they are very common wheel bearings. It's all most impossible to install the wrong ones they either won't fit or be too loose. It is not at all unusual for the holes not to line up it is better for them to be one hole loose than one hole too tight. Install the bearings tighten the nut until it stops (just pliers no breaker bar or long handles) then back it up until a hole lines up.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
NAPA or in your case Canadian Tire should have them in a complete kit seals bearings cotter pin the entire works they are very common wheel bearings. It's all most impossible to install the wrong ones they either won't fit or be too loose. It is not at all unusual for the holes not to line up it is better for them to be one hole loose than one hole too tight. Install the bearings tighten the nut until it stops (just pliers no breaker bar or long handles) then back it up until a hole lines up.
yes, we checked the too tight and too loose factor. Too tight it obviously not correct, but the mechanic that checked (and he showed me) that the "too loose was way too loose.

I have seen many of those bearing kits. The problem, from my perspective, in order to pick out the correct kit, means to take the old ones in to compare and they're wrong to start with. It's basically to start from square one.
I agree with you about almost impossible to install the wrong ones. Race diameter would be correct but the race depth and bearing thickness is the question. Most of the stuff I see are in blister packs.

Even if I guessed on a new set being thicker it could end up being too thick or still not thick enough.
My only thought was to cough up and let the spring shop calculate what bearings and races per measurements of the hubs. Maybe they have a chart.

You and I know what to do and how to do it, no problem but I need to know what sizes from scratch. manufacture specs

I can't really go into a supplier with my hub and check this pack or that pack.
I think what I might do is measure the depths where the bearing "races" sit and go from there. Any idea who made the axle assembly? I could check out their website too

Off topic: A few years ago I took my Explorer into the garage for a wheel bearing problem. Less than year later that problem returned. I asked why. They said they used Chinese bearings to keep the cost down. But they didn't tell me that on the first repair. They knew I was ticked. I'd rather pay more and get North American made products.
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:06 PM   #4
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If I recall the castle nut has 6 holes I believe the nut is 24 threads to the inch so the nut would take 24 turns to move it 1 inch so one turn is 1/24 of an inch or 4/100 divide that by 6 and you now have one hole equaling .006” that is well within the realm of acceptable clearance this is at the hub not the outside edge of the wheel. Now if the bearing actually fits and the race is smaller all that would mean is the nut would have to be tightened a bit tighter to adjust the clearance and that is pretty doubtful. All bearings have numbers on them somewhere even if it’s just the race with that number you can source the bearing or if the bearing does the race. All bearings are metric measure and I’m pretty sure yours is not a stepped spindle so they both will be the same. I have done hundreds of wheel bearings from campers to big trucks and I can all most remember the numbers of the bearings. Way back then they used to use a single number for wheel bearings like a number 1 through 3 bearing set it was pretty cut a dry. I’ll go out on a limb and say if you measure the diameter of the spindle you will end up with the right bearings and I also believe it’s 1”. I think you are going to find the bearings are the same ones that one might find in a small utility trailer. I hate to tell you this but Timken bearings are more than likely to be made in China.
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:50 PM   #5
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If I recall the castle nut has 6 holes I believe the nut is 24 threads to the inch so the nut would take 24 turns to move it 1 inch so one turn is 1/24 of an inch or 4/100 divide that by 6 and you now have one hole equaling .006Ē that is well within the realm of acceptable clearance this is at the hub not the outside edge of the wheel. Now if the bearing actually fits and the race is smaller all that would mean is the nut would have to be tightened a bit tighter to adjust the clearance and that is pretty doubtful. All bearings have numbers on them somewhere even if itís just the race with that number you can source the bearing or if the bearing does the race. All bearings are metric measure and Iím pretty sure yours is not a stepped spindle so they both will be the same. I have done hundreds of wheel bearings from campers to big trucks and I can all most remember the numbers of the bearings. Way back then they used to use a single number for wheel bearings like a number 1 through 3 bearing set it was pretty cut a dry. Iíll go out on a limb and say if you measure the diameter of the spindle you will end up with the right bearings and I also believe itís 1Ē. I think you are going to find the bearings are the same ones that one might find in a small utility trailer. I hate to tell you this but Timken bearings are more than likely to be made in China.
I recall when I first go the trailer I made sure I checked and repacked the bearings. (never know what any previous owner does).
The bearings did sit inside its own race nice and pretty, hence each bearing was made for each race and they fit together perfectly. But the overall thickness or depth of that bearing and race combination is shallower than factor original..

Timken equals Chinese? Surprise, surprise. Did you know that Simonize power washers are made in China? Did you know that most, if not all, Coleman products are made in China? Hence your primaries with the GOP and Dems. are talking about it
Sad, huh when good ole brand names have been hijacked [sorry, didn't mean to go off topic] but I too am following your debates and rallies.

BTW the mechanic that looked at my bearings claimed there were no part numbers visible. Obviously he did not take out the race because he wasn't servicing, just inspecting...at that point. There could have been a number on the race but if there was no number on the bearing, hence is when we both agreed it had to be offshore.

6 holes on the castle nut and 24 threads per inch? Yes, I agree with that.
That's why we're confident that the bearing/race are the wrong ones because it's either too tight or too loose, nothing just right. My utility trailer works exactly the way you explain. With my box trailer I DO get that happy medium. LOL I can also create a too tight, too loose on the box trailer but I can also create that perfect sweet spot too.
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:59 PM   #6
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It's pretty much a given tighten the nut back it up one notch call it good. Ask any old mechanic, no one deals with wheel bearings any more they are all now sealed bearings the only service is replacement hub and all and yes they have no play until they go bad but an old tapered bearing has to have play in order for the grease to get to the surfaces of the race that stuff is pretty thick. I think your mechanic is not used to tapered bearings if he says it has too much play ask him just what the clearance is bet he can't tell you because basically it is at best difficult if not impossible to measure accurately and I know of no set spec. My contention is if they fit they are the right bearings they are sized to a purpose.
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:31 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by mainah View Post
It's pretty much a given tighten the nut back it up one notch call it good. Ask any old mechanic, no one deals with wheel bearings any more they are all now sealed bearings the only service is replacement hub and all and yes they have no play until they go bad but an old tapered bearing has to have play in order for the grease to get to the surfaces of the race that stuff is pretty thick. I think your mechanic is not used to tapered bearings if he says it has too much play ask him just what the clearance is bet he can't tell you because basically it is at best difficult if not impossible to measure accurately and I know of no set spec. My contention is if they fit they are the right bearings they are sized to a purpose.
I can't argue with much of what you say, however this is a senior mechanic and has been at the spring shop for years. BTW this is a large tractor trailer spring shop and they also do cars, trailers and everything in between. I have dealt with them for years and often they'd do a little fixes on my Explorer and never charge me. Talking to many other people they have a reputation a mile high. I do have full confidence in them. Difference being I'd rather do it myself to save the labor cost

That said. I just got a response from an RV parts supplier here in Ontario, similar to Camping World. I gave them all the information and they responded by saying the trailer (cab) info is inconsequential. But if I could provide the numbers off the chassis and measure the brake drum it would be a good start in helping me. IMO those chassis could be sold to multiple trailer brands (makes sense). Personally, I never, ever gave that any thought.

Here's his quote:
Is there any numbers at all stamped into any of the undercarriage parts that is still readable? That would be helpful. Iím thinking that maybe the previous owner couldnít find a proper match, thatís why you have the issue you have now.

I want to say that you have either a 3500# axle or a 2800# one. Do you have electric brakes or just an idler hub? If it is a drum, the drum diameter might give us a clue as well.

The year make and model of the trailer doesnít tell us anything unfortunately.

Let me know what other info you can come up with.


Ever have a task where YOU want to do it yourself, if only you could find that missing link? Yup, that's me

I'll keep you updated when I get info. If he has nothing I might at least look at the Canadian Tire supply, failing that, back to the spring shop
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:50 AM   #8
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See if this will help you out like I said if you know the spindle size you can source the bearing. They don’t make different bearings for the same spindle size if the dimension are correct the bearing is the right one. trailer bearing kits for boat, utility, rv, car and motorcylcle trailers
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:41 AM   #9
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Update

mainah, that website you provide probably would have provided the correct bearings, but since I had incorrect bearings to beginning with it was hard to cross reference. Still, yours a is a great website. I kept to going to various RV shops and not too many people were able to help.

Someone directed me to the RVpartshop
I checked them out not expecting much but still hoping.

The guy asked about the axle identification and I found a removable aluminum strap wrapped around the axle, (it was still there? that's cool) I gave him all those numbers which helped him a lot, but to define the search he also asked for a specific series of numbers stamped on the outside of the brake drum, then to measure the diameter of the brake drum. Mine is a 10 inch.

He managed to gather all the correct parts: inners, outers, races and dust seals. Due to Easter long weekend I can't order till Monday
Bottom line, the trailer-make means nothing and even the chassis make means very little. It seems there tons on info on the axle(s) and drums to guide us to the correct bearing kits..

To get this info direct from the axle manufacturer means a lot and Dexter is still in business.. Don't forget mine is a Dexter axle so I'll assume all the T1350s have Dexters? As far as the other Sunline models are concerned one can only assume to check their axle identification. While I used the Canadian website they also have an American website and your orders will come via New York (LOL we drove through that town a couple of years ago).

What really intrigues me is the fact that the guy I dealt with was non-stop, trying to get the proper info to help me get the correct bearings. Not to gloat too much about these guys, I have never seen such consistent service. For an old 1985 TT that's a pretty good find these days.

NOTE: after I get the bearings and install them I will provide another follow up


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Old 03-26-2016, 04:50 PM   #10
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What I'm pretty sure you have is a 2000# axle. I have the exact same thing under my T1700 X two, also with a 10' drum. I also believe you have a 1" spindle there is only one bearing that will fit the others will be too loose on the spindle and the race will be too big to fit in the drum. Dexter Parts Online, Trailer Axle Bearing Kits, Seals
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:50 AM   #11
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Just an update. I finally received all my inner and outer bearings and races, new castle nuts and new dust seals. A couple of weeks ago the weather really warmed up and I went to town.
I took the drums to a local spring shop and they press-fit the races. I could have easily done them but I did not have a socket the right size to hover the race so to square the races into their seats. Thy did have the proper system and did them in two minutes. After all was done and greased the drum roll took place as I felt how the castle tightened. Both wheels were like brand new off the line.

We're taking off on Monday for our first seasonal comping trip to watch the moose go to the roadside ditches for annual salt water drink
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Old 05-07-2016, 06:24 AM   #12
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A little over a week ago we took our first camping trip north this season to see the moose in Algonquin Park. Last year we saw 12 moose. This year only 2 (probably too early) people this week have reported several moose.

Anyway, my first concern was my new wheel bearings.
What a pleasant surprise. Last year during every pit stop for gas or nature call I checked the hubs and tires for heat. Yup, they were warm enough after each and every stop, both sides.

This trip, fingers crossed, I found both sides as cool as a cucumber. The hubs were super cool and the tires were slightly warm (normal sidewall flex)

It took awhile to locate all the need components but worth it in the long run.
Most of us knew it had nothing to do with the trailer make but strictly which axle I had and more so the make, numbers and measurements on the brake drums.

Super happy and now I can tow worry free
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