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Old 05-04-2015, 10:11 AM   #1
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T1350 question

first an FYI.
I took my TT down to an industrial weigh scale. I was always curious about its real weight.
I removed everything from the trailer, except for paper plates and other light stuff probably totaling 50 lbs.???? (maybe even 25 lbs.)

Specs suggest my TT weighs 1750LBs dry weight.
It weighed in at 2300 LBs Remember this is an industrial scale and they don't have the luxury of 5, 10 or 20 lbs. increments.


Consider too:
  • I have a roof mount AC unit
  • An awning
  • two half full 20lb propane tanks
  • two 12volt batteries
  • a spare tire.
  • black, gray and fresh water tanks were all empty
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
When towing I can actually feel the weight, so we're cautious what we add when traveling.

Now for my question. I have a new 3 1/2 inch drop draw bar which leveled the TT out substantially.

The ball I have on it is a 2"
but I think (not 100% sure) that there might be some slop between ball and coupler hence the jolting we feel on crappy roads.

What size is the coupler are on these trailers? There's no markings at all on the coupler that suggest size. Maybe I need to go to a bigger ball?

Also while I lock the coupler onto the draw bar when towing, I notice, just this morning another single hole on the side of the coupler and it looks to me like another safety lock or pin to prevent the trailer from jumping off the hitch. Is my assumption correct?
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:48 AM   #2
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double checked

I managed to crouch down on the ground (stupid back kills me) and measured the diameter of the coupler. I get 2 1/8th inch. Does that make sense to most of you, hence I should have a 2 1/8th inch ball, not the 2" ? This could just reduce that back-n-forth slop I was talking about and make for smoother towing..

Agree?
Disagree?
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:24 PM   #3
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The dry weight doesn't include the LP or the batteries and I am not sure if it includes the awning.

Trailer ball sizes are 2 inch and 2 5/16 inch so if you measured 2 1/8 then a 2 inch ball would be correct.

All hitch couplers have a hole somewhere to insert a pin or a lock to keep the coupler handle from "uncoupling".
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Old 05-05-2015, 05:06 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
The dry weight doesn't include the LP or the batteries and I am not sure if it includes the awning.

Trailer ball sizes are 2 inch and 2 5/16 inch so if you measured 2 1/8 then a 2 inch ball would be correct.

All hitch couplers have a hole somewhere to insert a pin or a lock to keep the coupler handle from "uncoupling".
I think it's a psyche thing knowing what your trailer weighs, fuel economy etc . My old previous trailer weighed 2700 lbs on a mini van with weight distribution and I barely felt the tow. Back in the 90s with my old trailer my fuel consumption was reasonable? V6. But this TT is smaller and lighter with a V8 and my fuel consumption sucks (literally)

There was something about 2 1/8 inch that triggered a thought somewhere and lead me to second guess myself. Plus the fact that my coupler "jaw" has no adjustment and the extra slop, ya, I started to second guess.

I do have that hole in the coupler handle and use a locking mechanism to lock it for towing and storing in the driveway. But this hole is down the side of the coupler and I'll assume it's extra assurance for locking the actual jaw. I'll post a pic a little later.

BTW thanks for the other info especially that 2 1/8 inch thingy. I was 98% sure but that 2% crept in and messed with me
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryJ View Post
... I was 98% sure but that 2% crept in and messed with me
That 2% catches ALL of us at one time or another.
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Old 05-06-2015, 07:58 AM   #6
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A 1 7/8 will be very sloppy to the point of all most coming off and a 2 5/16 won't fit they are generally only used on trailers in excess of 10,000# They don't make a 2 1/8" Your safe with a 2" The slop when towing is more than likely the draw bar than the ball they can be noisy.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryJ View Post
first an FYI.
I took my TT down to an industrial weigh scale. I was always curious about its real weight.
I removed everything from the trailer, except for paper plates and other light stuff probably totaling 50 lbs.???? (maybe even 25 lbs.)

Specs suggest my TT weighs 1750LBs dry weight.
It weighed in at 2300 LBs Remember this is an industrial scale and they don't have the luxury of 5, 10 or 20 lbs. increments.


Consider too:
  • I have a roof mount AC unit
  • An awning
  • two half full 20lb propane tanks
  • two 12volt batteries
  • a spare tire.
  • black, gray and fresh water tanks were all empty
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
When towing I can actually feel the weight, so we're cautious what we add when traveling.

Now for my question. I have a new 3 1/2 inch drop draw bar which leveled the TT out substantially.

The ball I have on it is a 2"
but I think (not 100% sure) that there might be some slop between ball and coupler hence the jolting we feel on crappy roads.

What size is the coupler are on these trailers? There's no markings at all on the coupler that suggest size. Maybe I need to go to a bigger ball?

Also while I lock the coupler onto the draw bar when towing, I notice, just this morning another single hole on the side of the coupler and it looks to me like another safety lock or pin to prevent the trailer from jumping off the hitch. Is my assumption correct?
Your Explorer should be more than capable of towing the camper I pull a T1700 with a Tacoma 6 cylinder no problem. The fuel economy is not so much the weight as it is the wind drag I only get around 14 with my Tacoma and if I push it, it will drop to 10. I have never weighted mine I'm guessing about 3,000# loaded.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
Your Explorer should be more than capable of towing the camper I pull a T1700 with a Tacoma 6 cylinder no problem. The fuel economy is not so much the weight as it is the wind drag I only get around 14 with my Tacoma and if I push it, it will drop to 10. I have never weighted mine I'm guessing about 3,000# loaded.
I guess my weight, with all our incidentals, can average about 3K as well. It's just one of those things we all check from time to time, who better to ask but fellow Sunline owners.

Thanks all
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:01 AM   #9
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Never had ours weighed. I can feel it behind our 5.3L Yukon a little bit, but not much - on bouncy roads mostly. Yes there is a little slop in the coupler/ball, and you will hear/feel it now and then.
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:07 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
The fuel economy is not so much the weight as it is the wind drag I only get around 14 with my Tacoma and if I push it, it will drop to 10.
Agreed - they aren't very aerodynamic. On a flat, smooth, level highway with cruise on at 60, I get about 15 or 16 with our T-1350. Add a little head wind, and can drop off to about 10 as well - depending on how much wind.
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Old 05-06-2015, 12:11 PM   #11
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I'm fine on the highway, as well. Aside from some sway just under 60mph.
Actually I booked an appointment for Monday to have a sway control installed on my class 2 draw bar. I think most of us can put up with a lot but when the driver behind you sees your sway, that bothers me. I just want stability.


Btw here that hole on the side of the coupler I mentioned previous. I never even noticed this before. Rather than buying a special lock (one more key to lose) I opted to take a bolt and grind down one side and insert a push clip
Works great
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File Type: jpg IMG_0765.jpg (93.5 KB, 6 views)
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Old 05-06-2015, 06:08 PM   #12
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I going to guess if your camper sways there is not enough weight on the hitch. That little camper should not sway behind your Ford. You should be looking at around 12% of the total weight on the hitch so it should be too much weight to pickup the tong up to hitch it up if your weight is close to right the tong weight should be in the 250-280# range. You pin looks fine that should stay put.
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Old 05-06-2015, 06:34 PM   #13
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I made note of that factor a long time ago. Any heavier items that we do pack is typically over the front end, keeping the left and right equally balanced. all tanks empty too.

Previously before I bought the 3 1/2 inch drop draw-bar the trailer sort of hydro planed, now that it is virtually level when towing it doesn't sway as much but still sways.
If nothing else the anti-sway bar, with its friction action, should at least 'dampen' the action
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:47 PM   #14
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I find that shorter trailers react very quickly to steering wheel movements. Gentle steering wheel corrections help.
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:08 AM   #15
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I had a popup years ago that swayed like crazy behind a full sized Jeep the only way I could stop it was added weight. A sway bar will most likely stop it but I would try to find out why it does in the first place. Spring shackle bushings, loose axle U bolts, even a bad tire things like that.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:48 PM   #16
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Update

I had a sway bar control installed today.
what a difference !!!!!!

Before I couldn't drive any faster than 55MPH and the TT would start to sway; slow down and it would stabilize; speed up and it would start to sway again and keep any/all extra weight over the front toward the tongue.

After the sway bar install I made some initial tension adjustments and gradually added more tension and gradually took it up to 70MPH, I never hauled a trailer that fast, but this was a test. Smooth as a baby's butt.

Also, you remember that clunking between the 2" ball and the coupler? That too has smoothed out. It's just all round more stable.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:14 PM   #17
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JerryJ,

Are you talking about a friction sway bar on the trailer to the tow vehicle? Please post pictures.
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
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JerryJ,

Are you talking about a friction sway bar on the trailer to the tow vehicle? Please post pictures.
This isn't my trailer or hook up just a copy and paste. Mine is now disco'd and put away until our next trip. But yes, it's the friction system



I can understand the sway being more under control but when it also stopped that annoying clunking, that made my day. BTW my test was @ 75 MPH not 70MPH.
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:20 PM   #19
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Very good. Thanks for the follow through. Very clear what you were saying. Also very interesting the effect.

What kind of brake controller are you using? Is it compatible with the friction sway control?

Am I correct to say some are and some aren't?
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:22 PM   #20
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Jerry..I am sure someone will pop in and tell you your wheels are not designed for those speeds !! Also, PA law in fine print states towed vehicles must stay 10 mph under the posted speed limit!(probably others so!) And you sure don't want a blowout with a single axle trailer! JMO of,course!
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