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01-12-2014, 11:13 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1
SUN #5999
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Sunline Travel Trailer, electrical box??
I have a direct short in my travel trailer, and have been unable to locate the electrical box from the external cord, any help or idea's?
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01-12-2014, 06:21 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 49
SUN #1321
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There are lots of smarter folks on this board than me, but I'll give it a poke.
I believe the cord from the 120v incoming line connects directly to the fuse box located with the converter behind a removable panel. Mine is located in the hallway on the bathroom wall down at floor level.
All the best,
T
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01-12-2014, 06:22 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Hi busymanran, Welcome to the forum.
If you tell us the model and year there may be someone here with that model that could give the exact location.
The only help I can offer is that the electrical box with the breakers is "usually" close inside to where the AC cord enters the trailer and almost always down near the floor.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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01-13-2014, 08:54 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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What's "shorted"? Is it the power coming into the camper from the 120 volt plug or the 12 volt stuff for the lights etc.?
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04-09-2015, 04:41 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 5
SUN #6595
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Great question. I have the same problem and I'm pretty sure if it's the 12V it's a fuse which should be in the converter. Hope this helps.
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04-10-2015, 04:22 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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The modern switching supplies have "line fuses" in the converter older ones usually had a 30 amp fuse near the battery. If the outlets don't work then it's a 120 volt problem if the lights don't work then is a 12 volt issue.
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04-12-2015, 12:42 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 5
SUN #6595
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Thanks mainah. Mine is a 1986 Satellite. I found a blown a blown 30amp in the converter box and replaced it. When I plug in to the 7 way on my truck all lights work. When I unplug, they stop. Going to try new battery next. Thanks again.
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04-12-2015, 04:00 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 279
SUN #6579
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Short
Hi and welcome to the forum. My guess would be the 12 volt battery. The lights will work fine when hooked up to another source like your truck.
Good luck!
Dave
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1999 Sunline Solaris T2553--SOLD--
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04-12-2015, 05:47 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 182
SUN #5443
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I sounds like a dead battery but do your lights work with the trailer plugged into a 120 source? I would check that before getting a new battery right away. If they work I would then go with the battery. If they do not work then it is a convertor problem.
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04-13-2015, 05:45 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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A 30 amp fuse is pretty hefty one sure fire way to take one out is to reverse the battery polarity. I would check the camper battery voltage first before I ran out and bought one.
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04-13-2015, 07:24 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 5
SUN #6595
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Roger that, thanks again.
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04-13-2015, 02:11 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New York
Posts: 26
SUN #6631
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Happy Spring!!! We are new to this and this is our first Spring set-up. We pulled her out and plugged her in. The air conditioner works, the microwave works, the plug in the wall works. The fridge doesn't work and the lights don't work. It's a 2003 20 ft solairs. Are we missing something??? LoL We're hoping to travel in a couple of weeks. Thanks in advance for any help you can give us. Jackie
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04-13-2015, 03:59 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 279
SUN #6579
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Hi, the first thing that I'd check for the refrig is to see if there's power to the plug that it's plugged into. That plug is behind that white vent on the side. It's right behind the frig. Use a circuit tester or just plug a lamp into it to see if it's working. Just a starting spot for you. Good luck!
Dave
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1999 Sunline Solaris T2553--SOLD--
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04-13-2015, 05:40 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Sounds like you have no 12 volt power. It could be as simple as a dead battery from over the winter the fridge needs 12 volt DC to work and the lights also. Some converters need a good battery to work so that would be the first thing to check. If it was discharged over the winter it is possible it froze that seldom does a battery much good.
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04-13-2015, 07:18 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New York
Posts: 26
SUN #6631
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Thank you both!
Thanks for your quick replies! We will check tomorrow! It's raining cats and dogs and every so often it seems like ferrets, too!
Jackie
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04-14-2015, 07:55 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 360
SUN #6257
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A little tip for anyone doing anything electrical in your trailer.
A trailer rock and rolls and vibrates as it hits its share of bumps. Things happen, more so when it age.
Your primary thinking should be a process of elimination.
Before you plug things in and turn them on. Unplug everything in your trailer. Even turn off your fridge. Turn OFF all your circuit breakers. In effect what you have now is power going to the circuit breakers but no further. If your household circuit breaker still pops, then you have a short in your TT extension cord going to the outlet. Situation isolated.
Now turn on one circuit breaker (hopefully they're labeled ) and what ever it's feeding see if those items work ok. For wall outlets just use a simple 120VAC household lamp. Check each outlet.
If all is fine now turn on the next outlet and to the same and then continue until all is turn on and active.
If, during this procedure, something pops or fails you now know where your fault is. If things go properly and you do have a short then one of your TT circuit breakers will pop and you have identified that the problem is only on that circuit. Find out what it feeds and start searching. Again with everything off on that circuit you can start to "introduce" one new item at a time, until it pops. Bingo there's your problem.
You might want to have your circuit breaker checked by an electrician (unless you know your stuff). Loose wires internally can cause some precarious circumstances. Loose wires can cause an 'intermittent' and those slight surges can trip a breaker.
BTW if your circuit breakers are NOT labeled now would be a great opportunity to label them..
Keep in mind that there is a difference between having a "short" and having an "open" A short-circuit will pop circuit breakers almost instantly.
With an "open" you have zero power, nothing, nada. Like someone took the snips to your circuit.
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Jerry & Debbie
Ford Explorer 4.6 Triton V8, AWD, 4x4
1985 Sunline Saturn T-1350
Ham radio VE3JCJ, VHF, UHF and HF
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04-14-2015, 02:27 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: New York
Posts: 26
SUN #6631
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Update on the dead battery
Hubby picked up a new battery today and now the camper is working like a top! Thank you both for the heads up on the battery situation and the fridge needing the 12 volt system to work.
Quick question of course LoL Has anyone put a solar system in a small camper like ours and, if so, could you give us some hints about what's involved and the cost? Benefit vs. problems encountered. I would really like to be totally off the grid some day.
Thank you Jerry, too! Great idea for spring start-up!
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