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Old 11-05-2019, 07:00 PM   #1
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Sunline t1550 advice

Hi, I just found this site. I am totally new to trailers and this repair. I found a good amount of water damage and one wall needed to get take down, which ended up to need to replace a lot of it. I did some searches through forums but I didnít see answers, please link and Iíll read sorry about it.

I need to take off the floor any ideas? It looks like itís kind of held by big bolts. Do I just try to pry it up?

I need to replace the fridge and was looking at a 12v fridge, anyone have suggestions?

I was looking at redoing the seams using the tape and painting fridge w Henryís, any issues?

Anyone upgrade their black tank, I have a family of 5 full of poop, I would love a larger tank.

I need to replace the shower pan, anyone find a decent priced one to fit?

I am going to spray paint the bottom w that rust sealer stuff because itís pretty bad down there. Any brand suggestions?

Obviously Iím really open to any advice. Thank you!
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Old 11-06-2019, 05:49 PM   #2
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Hello and welcome fellow T1550 owner!

The closest thread I can find of a T1550 is from YellowJacket who is currently working on their T1550. He didn't completely gut his but did post quite a few pictures that may be helpful.

1987 t1550 restoration

Good luck. Post pics as you go and ask questions. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this site that may be able to guide you through the process.

Tommie
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Old 11-06-2019, 08:01 PM   #3
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Hi and welcome!

It looks like you have a real project in the works. We have had many go through this before. We can help as we can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lratkovic View Post
Hi, I just found this site. I am totally new to trailers and this repair. I found a good amount of water damage and one wall needed to get take down, which ended up to need to replace a lot of it. I did some searches through forums but I didnít see answers, please link and Iíll read sorry about it.
To help on the search, the are a few way on how to do it. See this thread on how to search the forum using our Google Custom search. It works a lot better then the main forum search.
Forums 101 - posting, accounts, basics

Links on repairing water damage, while we may not have a lot of them on your exact floor plan, we have several on other floor plans and model years. While Sunline did change the way they built the campers over the year, the techniques in these posts can still help. Some of these are active repairs and not yet completed. Others are completed.

I will say this, you took the camper apart starting from the inside. Many of us start taking the camper apart from the outside in. These campers are not built like a house from the inside out, they are built from the outside in. We do less damage to the inside starting on the outside. Odds are high you will
to take some siding off to replace rotted wall studs and restaple the siding onto the new wood.

Here some links to repair with a lot of pics
New Project Sunline - 1979 12 1/2' MC

Rebuilding my 1996 Solaris

Let the floor repair fun begin! (Picture heavy)

T2363 Water Leak Repair

Serious Problem w/Floor.....need help

Bathroom Floor Repair

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...air-19511.html

Water Damage Assessment and Repair

2004 T2475 Repair - Project Camper No 2

A Winter Project - Roof Repair (Picture heavy)

Quote:
Originally Posted by lratkovic View Post
I need to take off the floor any ideas? It looks like itís kind of held by big bolts. Do I just try to pry it up?
The floor system was bolted to the metal frame using carriage bolts in most campers. I'm not sure if all of them used them or some used lag screws. If yours has a metal bottom cover, that may need to be removed to see the nuts of the carriage bolts.

Many times the threads are so rusted on the carriage bolts, that the heads spins in the wood and you cannot undo the nut. In these cases I just used a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the nuts off and pound up the carriage bolts with a punch out of the floor.

The floor OSB/plywood was sometimes glued and screwed to the floor joists. Some were not glued, only screwed. Unscrewing if the screw heads are still there helps. Other times you have to cut around the wood at rusted up screw head and take the screw out after the floor is out. And sometimes you can grind the heads off. The old glue often separated from the floor joists with a pry bar.

There was also changes along the way if the floor was under the wall studs, or next to it. On my newer campers, 2003 and newer, the walls rest on the floor OSB board. So I have to lift the wall to get the floor OSB out.

More on your other questions in a little bit. Out of time now.
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Old 11-06-2019, 10:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lratkovic View Post
I need to replace the fridge and was looking at a 12v fridge, anyone have suggestions?
Do you know the model number of the old fridge? Do you still have the old fridge? It may be cheaper to repair the old then get new if the cost of a new one is a problem. Many are still available as replacement. Either the same model or an upgraded one.

When you said 12 volt, I assumed you meant a RV gas fridge that also needs 12 volts to run. Or are you thinking a 12 volt "only" fridge? If it is the 12 volt only, the only ones I have seen are very small, like a 6 pack size you plug into a car cigarette lighter. If you are wanting a "family" size 12 volt fridge, have you found any you can link so we can see what it is? And how much power draw on 12 volt it will take.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lratkovic View Post
I was looking at redoing the seams using the tape and painting fridge w Henryís, any issues?
Need to know what seams you are talking about. Roof items, windows, moldings etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lratkovic View Post
Anyone upgrade their black tank, I have a family of 5 full of poop, I would love a larger tank.
What size tank are you thinking? This place has many tanks. Do not know if they will fit. I have bought from them and had a positive experience. https://www.icondirect.com/categorie...Holding-Tanks/
If you go a larger tank, caution to not tow at highway speeds when it is full unless you sort out all the details of weight and balance changes of the tongue weight. A trip in the campground to the dump station with a full tank is not an issue as that is low speed. Heavy filled large tanks located in the wrong location can upset the tongue weight of the camper and create sway issues at highway speeds. Just a heads up to sort that out when increasing the tank size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lratkovic View Post
I need to replace the shower pan, anyone find a decent priced one to fit?
Shower pan size is unique to each floor plan. What size are you looking for? A few pics of the old one with dimensions helps. Icon has some, but there are other places selling them too. https://www.icondirect.com/categorie...s/Shower-Pans/


Quote:
Originally Posted by lratkovic View Post
I am going to spray paint the bottom w that rust sealer stuff because itís pretty bad down there. Any brand suggestions?
What are you treating, the metal frame? Or does yours have a metal cover on the bottom? Or does yours have nothing covering the bottom of the floor? Some of the older campers had an aluminum sheet to protect the bottom of the camper. Others had nothing on the really old ones. The newer ones have a plastic tarp like sheet to cover the bottom of the floor etc. But the steel metal frame is still exposed.

It would help if we knew the year of your camper and pics of the areas you are asking about so we can see what you have. Sunline made lots of different floor plans and even on the same floor plan across the years, they changed construction methods as the years went by. So we are limited in what we can say that may help you as we do not know what yours looks like.

Hope this helps and looking forward to seeing your good progess!

John
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Old 11-07-2019, 06:54 PM   #5
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Hi lratkovic,

What year is your 1550? The carriage bolts go through the OSB into the 2x2 floor joists and then into a cross member of the trailer. They will not come off with a wrench. You'll need to use the technique John mentions above. Do you have many rotted studs that need to be replaced? If so, also as John mentioned, the siding is stapled heavily to them where they overlap with one another. Out of curiosity, do you plan to reinstall the cabinets? Did they get damaged in removal? I would use adcoat rust converter on the frame if you can find it, it works really well. Then paint with rustoleum.
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Old 11-11-2019, 06:17 PM   #6
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They do make very efficient fridges most are chest type quite expensive and require battery power me I would never give up my gas one. If it went toes up I would replace it with a gas one they run about the same price as a chest type. You can store a great more energy in a 20# propane tank than you can with 10 batteries.
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