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Old 09-02-2008, 03:42 PM   #1
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Stuck Door Step

Our door step is hard to pull out. I was going to replace the whole step then I realized that it was welded to the frame. Does anyone know how to take them off? If so please leave me step my step instructions. If I can not take them off how can I free it up so it is easier to pull out?

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Old 09-02-2008, 03:56 PM   #2
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WD-40 or some sort of dry lube. Even a fresh coat of paint will help operation.

However, make sure you pull out evenly, otherwise it will jam up. This would even be an issue on a new step as well.

Jon
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:42 PM   #3
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If you have the single slider step, some lube does help. Just avoid grease if possibe as dirt sticks to it. However the only way I could get’s ours to work is

Take 2 hands, gently lift up to unhook, then gently pull even with 2 hands. This is what Sunline Fan was referring to.

Any slight twist and it will lock up in a heartbeat.

Replacing it with the same type will still give the same results. I was glad when we got our larger TT as it has the 3 steps folding stairs that goes in and out easy if they are lubed in the pivot points.

As far as getting it off, grinding the welds or using a high speed cut off wheel is about it. And if so, protect the plastic bottom cover from sparks. Line with a metal sheet metal when grinding.

Good luck

John
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Old 09-03-2008, 08:31 AM   #4
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I remember reading someone (was it eman?) that tried just about every lubricant and finally settled on old fashioned baby oil as the best solution.
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Old 09-03-2008, 09:15 AM   #5
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ok, here was our fix - after trying cleaning the pins, lubing them with almost averything know to man - we still have a rear step that was almost impossible to pull out.

my neighbour is a fellow so does metal engineering work for a living - so i asked his help --- he mentioned that it apeared the rivet pins were too tight ---so here is what he did

took an open ended socked and place it against the rivet head (next to the step on side of the step) - took a hammer and tapped the rivet a couple of times from the outside side of the step.

this loosed the rivet a wee bit without removing it all together -- did this to both rivets on each side of the step and eventualy to the front step as well.

i used a small wire brush to clean the pins well - used some lithium grease on them --- now i can use two fingers of one hand to pull out either set of steps.

we did this first think in the spring after returning from florida --- have used the trailer in all sorts of conditions this year - including a very cold trip in northern ontario where it rained a lot ----- steps still work like butter!

thanks you rolly!

if you want pics of how we did this, i can do them up for you ---- i can't believe after a year of trying anything i could think of and continually cleaning the joints/pins that this worked so well.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:31 PM   #6
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Thank You

precorguy yes please post pictures when you can. thank you

I want you say Thank you to everyone for the all the great replys.

Thank You again
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:30 PM   #7
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I had some difficulty with only the rear step when I got the Sunline. After looking it over, carefully, I saw that, at some point, it had been bent slightly. After straightening the step and numerous applications of flooding the pins with WD40 (lots of rust came out), the step works one handed and doesn't bind up, same as the front step. In fact, they both flip out with no effort.

I feel, as a result of my experience, that the first thing is to insure that the step unit is not bent. After that, flood the pins with WD40, until the rust stops coming out, and the step should work incredibly easily. Worked for me!
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:39 PM   #8
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precorguy

Is yours a single step? I do not recall any rivets on the single step. Basically a rod that hangs out each end making a stud that rides in a slotted track. On my larger camper, yes that is a multi step, 3 actually and those have rivets at the scissors hinge points.

Hemetite, H'mm bent step. Did not look for that per say. Will do. Mine will come out if it is perfectly evenly pulled on and some lube. But that sweet spot has very little tolerance. DW can never get it and I hear about it every time….

John
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:06 AM   #9
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JohnB:

Yes, I couldn't understand why the rear step was so hard to get out and the front one basically fell out with one hand. Same as you describe, it was a careful 2 hand procedure. I have a feeling that the rear step was bent at the factory or when delivered because the rear jack would have been wiped out if something had struck the step while on the road. It was bent backward slightly.

WOW, once I straightened it and flushed the rust out, it flips out with 2 fingers! It's a little thing but it's nice that the step works so easily now!
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:56 AM   #10
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I believe John and Rick are talking two different steps here. John, I believe you have the style step that Sunline used well back into the '80's where there's a bar welded between the step frame and the step itself has two plates coming back with slots in it. The slots slide along the bar for in or out. Operation was always tough on those, but like I said earlier, a good coat of paint and a little dry lube will make a world of difference. The ends on this kind of step could be a little bent and it wouldn't make much difference. A common problem with these is the point of contact where the step meets the frame could get worn out so the step isn't level. Also, on the '80's trailers, they just bolted the step through the floor, and if the floor rotted out at all, the step just bent right down.

However, Rick and the OP both have '06 2499's. I haven't looked at any of these steps close enough, but I believe they are a little different style, using the rivets. I seem to recall more mechanical parts to them than the old style had.

Here's a pic of the old style, which I believed was used until 2005, but I'm not sure. The bar which the step moves on is just below the bottom aluminum. It's there, but blends in very well:


Could someone with a new style step please post a pic?

Jon
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:09 AM   #11
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John

our single step is hinged with a rivet type post --- to get the step out - you pull up and out, then is falls down a couple of inches into place.

it was the rivet that was tight that made it so difficult to pull the step out as it would not allow the step hinge to turn and we could not lift and pull the step out.

when the step is out and down, it rests on a notch holding it firmly in place - there is no sliding of the step involved.

i will post some pics of our step and how we fixed its stiffness!
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by precorguy
John

our single step is hinged with a rivet type post --- to get the step out - you pull up and out, then is falls down a couple of inches into place.

it was the rivet that was tight that made it so difficult to pull the step out as it would not allow the step hinge to turn and we could not lift and pull the step out.

when the step is out and down, it rests on a notch holding it firmly in place - there is no sliding of the step involved.

i will post some pics of our step and how we fixed its stiffness!

Jon,

Thanks for pointing out that there are 2 types, I didn't realize that there was a difference.

precorguy,

That is the type of step that I have. Even after straightening the bend, it was still stiff. Yes, it is the rivet being too tight and/ or rusted. In my case. flooding the rivets with WD40 and working it back and forth till no more rust came out made it a joy to to use!
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:20 PM   #13
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OK guys let's compare notes/steps. Jon may be onto something.

Here is a step on my 2004 T2499. In the closed position


In the open position.


This is the one that I have to use 2 hands and open very gently with some lube or it will bind in a heartbeat.

John

Rick, is yours like this?
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Old 09-05-2008, 07:30 AM   #14
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JohnB:

My step picture is enclosed. Apparently among other changes made in 2005 this seems to be one of them. The procedure is to lift the step slightly and start to gently pull it out. Because of the linkage, as long as the rivets are clean and lubed, the step actually propels itself out somewhat. There are notches cut into the side frame of the step to lock it in place in either position. As may be seen, there are 2 solid rivets per side holding the linkage and step together.




I added the full width shoe cleaner/ carpet. This design may be a bit lower than the slide out design.
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Old 09-05-2008, 07:36 AM   #15
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After looking at both configurations, I see that the both steps may be at the same height. There is a substantial difference in the configuration of the lower body in these 2 units.
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Old 09-05-2008, 03:08 PM   #16
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ok - we have the same stair design as Hermatite ---- i like the look of the shoe cleaner carpet - perhaps time to pick that up - another thing for the list.

if you look at the step carefully - second picture on Hermatite posting - extended step - you can see two rivet pivot points - one out front and one at the back --- it was the back one that we carefully loosened with a hammer and socket - then cleaned - then lubed to get it to work like butter!

here is the set up to fix it:

1. hammer the outside of the rivet with some force but gently
2. while doing so, hold the socket around the rivet head (socket opening must be larger than the head of the rivet) on the inside of the step - this allows support around the rivet but allows the rivet to move slightly and loosen up
3. test the movement - if loosened, but still a bit stiff, give it another go
4. once loosened to easy movement - add penetrating cleaner, brush well to loosen and remove any dirt or rust
5. add lube/grease and work joint

once done the step should move very very freely.

hope that helps, if not let me know and i will take a pic of what we did and post it.

alex
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Old 09-05-2008, 10:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hematite
JohnB:

My step picture is enclosed. Apparently among other changes made in 2005 this seems to be one of them.

snip....

After looking at both configurations, I see that the both steps may be at the same height. There is a substantial difference in the configuration of the lower body in these 2 units.
Learn something new every day here on Sunline Club Never knew that was an upgrade in the 2005 re-design

Yes the 2004 era and older T2499's had straight side walls at the floor line. The 2005 and newer have the round curved under lower siding panels and the wheel wells are different.

My 2004 T310SR has the round lower panel but the same wheel wells. But I thought they did that because of the slide and 10" frame. I actually like the square lower side panel better as when it rains the water drops straight down off the side of the TT. On the T310 curved, the water runs under the camper about 6" then hits the ground. While camping I store outside stuff under the camper to keep it out of the rain. Well have to push a lot further in.

A picture in this case was worth 2 pages of post….

John
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