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Old 03-06-2018, 04:41 PM   #1
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Tod Osier is an unknown quantity at this point
Stabilizer question.....

I need a part and canít figure out the manufacture of my stabilizers. I asked the folks at bal and a couple trailer parts retailers and have not gotten any leads, there are no marks on them and I have nothing in my sunline folder.

Anyone know what these are?

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Old 03-06-2018, 05:41 PM   #2
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Lippert Components, but don't think they make the round base anymore
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Old 03-06-2018, 09:37 PM   #3
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I agree with Mike, they look like the Lippert stabilizers.

I will look tomorrow on BenB's 2006 T-264SR and report back if I can find a sticker on it. I think his has the round foot too. I will check and report back.

My 2004 T310SR has the Bal stabilizers as there was stickers with their name on it. And the foot is rectangular, not round.

Thanks

John
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Old 03-07-2018, 06:03 AM   #4
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Thanks guys, that will be easier if they are Lippert... they don’t match up with the current style or anything I can find on the internet. Looking at the design, notice that the pivot point (hinge pin). On current manufacture, both bal and Lippert use a permanent flanged pin, but mine have a nut (actually a bolt, but looks like a nut) on each side in the end of the pin. I lost one of the short bolts that go into the ends of the hinge pins, it just worked it’s way out at some point.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:05 AM   #5
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Yep, Lippert. Came standard on 2005-07 or 2006-07 Sunlines.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:43 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
Yep, Lippert. Came standard on 2005-07 or 2006-07 Sunlines.
THANKS ALL. Iíll give them a call, Iím a little frustrated I looked at a LOT of photos and websites and have yet to find a photo of that model. I should have just asked, but when they didnít match what t was seeing I figured I had something different.

The part i lost is fairly complicated and Iím sure was one of the reasons they changed designs to the more simple rivet.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:13 AM   #7
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http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Camp...ssor_Jack.aspx Maybe some thing you could use?
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:31 AM   #8
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Those newer jacks are different, which is the problem.
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Old 03-07-2018, 01:16 PM   #9
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What is different just the looks? Or is it a mounting issue?
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Old 03-07-2018, 01:21 PM   #10
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The way they are built. The new ones are put together with pins/riveted. The old ones with bolts and I’m looking for a bolt. They don’t sell any parts for the new ones, since there is no ability to get them apart/repair.
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Old 03-07-2018, 01:30 PM   #11
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What's so unusual about the bolt? I'll guess it's a shoulder bolt.
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Old 03-07-2018, 01:45 PM   #12
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What's so unusual about the bolt? I'll guess it's a shoulder bolt.
It is a shoulder bolt. Short thread, short shoulder, fine thread, fat bolt. I’m sure I can make one, with a bolt and bushing, but I was hoping not to. I’ve spent enough time in this thread that I could have made one.

And I’d like it to match (which isn’t going to happen if I make one).
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Old 03-07-2018, 02:49 PM   #13
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Iíve spent enough time in this thread that I could have made one.
This reminded me of when I was in line at RepairClinic the other day, and witnessed this customer:

"Yeah I need this wire for my dryer"
"Sir, what is it from? I need a model number and serial number"
"Um, I don't have that. Isn't it a common wire, don't all brand x dryers use this same wire? It's a main wire that goes to the heating element."
"I'm not sure sir, I need at least a model number to look it up."
"Don't you have anyone who knows dryers who would recognize it?"
"I'll go see if my supervisor recognizes it"

Counter person disappears for 5 mins while dude finds the "model number" on his phone from his past Amazon orders.

"No, my supervisor doesn't recognize this. Sorry"
"I just found the model number" Gives number. Counter person looks it up.
"Sir, that's a part number for a heating element, it's used in about a dozen brand X dryers.
"Oh yeah, I just bought that a month ago. I don't know what to do."
"Sir, you can go up the street to Y hardware store, and they should be able to get you the parts to make that up. It's a pretty simple wire. But without markings on the wire or a model number, I can't help you."

Customer walks out frustrated.

This wire was literally about a 6" piece of 12 or 14 gauge wire with a push on spade connector on each end. When I walked up to the counter, I said geez, I could have made a complete copy of that wire in the time it took for all that! Unfortunately I don't think the customer had the faintest clue on how to make it up.
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Old 03-07-2018, 06:46 PM   #14
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I see you found out that these are for sure LCI and the early vintage.

I took these pics's today off of BenB's 2006 T264SR. And I can see why you lost one.

Here is the LCI with a fine thread shoulder bolt.

For reasons not understood why, Sunline welded these on?? These do get beat up from time to time and they may have to cuts the welds off. Not great for the main frame lower flange if it can be avoided. They bolted mine on.


A better view of the pivot joint


And the shoulder bolt. Thanks Tod for posting about this. These should be blue loctite'ed in. It took very little effort to unscrew this out of there. Will have BenB go over his before one of his rattles out.






And here is the Bal Stabilizer off my 2004 T310SR. Their design does not need a rivet or a screw. The center threaded rod holds it in.




At work, I used to buy a lot of shoulder bolts. However the standard shoulder bolt of this size normally uses "coarse" thread. This LCI thread is finner. I did not put a thread gage on it, but it is not course.

If you want to make this, a method that may be done, assuming this is a standard size fine thread, start with a hex socket head screw. Then create a steel bushing the OD/ID to slide over the thread of the bolt and stop at the bolt head. The bushing should lock up with you tighten the bolt.

I can check tomorrow the thread pitch and see if the OD of the shoulder matches something simple like a piece of pipe if you want to try and make one of these. Do you have a buddy with a small lathe? If this is not a standard size that bushing can be made fairly easy on a small 6" lathe. Let me know I'll dig more into this if you cannot locate a premade one at a reasonable cost.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:29 PM   #15
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If you want to sell me one of Ben’s that will save me a bunch of work.

If I have to, I’ll make one. It really wouldn’t be bad. Lots of options in the basement and local hardware store and even McMaster Carr for bushings. We are in the middle of a March classic nor’easter now and I’m not in a rush, but I’ll post up what I figure out.
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Old 03-08-2018, 07:20 AM   #16
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For reasons not understood why, Sunline welded these on?? These do get beat up from time to time and they may have to cuts the welds off. Not great for the main frame lower flange if it can be avoided
Yeah, I think there are a lot of people who forget to crank them up before travel, and then they bend. Or they get lazy and don't retract them all the way, and then they drag.

I replaced all of mine on the '97 for one of those reasons, or both, plus because they were rusty.

I would bet Lippert supplied the frames with the jacks already attached. I doubt Sunline took the time to weld them on. I bet the steps and jacks were delivered already installed and ready to build on. Your generation were probably installed by Sunline, hence bolted.

I did some digging and found Pat's factory picture of the frame starting off, and unless these things were installed in assembly prior to the picture, it looks like they did arrive installed:

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Old 03-09-2018, 11:23 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post
If you want to sell me one of Benís that will save me a bunch of work.

If I have to, Iíll make one. It really wouldnít be bad. Lots of options in the basement and local hardware store and even McMaster Carr for bushings. We are in the middle of a March classic noríeaster now and Iím not in a rush, but Iíll post up what I figure out.
Hi Tod,

, Well after what I'm about to tell you, I'm sure Ben will not want to sell his....

I went and measured up the shoulder bolt. I started with the thread as at first glance I thought this was a 1/2" fine thread, UNF. And that would be easy to go buy a bolt and start from there.

Well, for reason totally not know, LCI is using one real goofy thread in this shoulder bolt.

I made a sketch and measured the thread major diameter and the thread pitch. This is some kind of special thread that I myself have not seen before.

This is what you have, a 0.538" major thread diameter with 20 threads per inch (TPI).


That is a very odd SAE thread diameter, it is not 1/2" and not 9/16". OK so maybe it is metric. In metric this is 1.25 threads per mm. But the diameter is odd. It is not a 12 mm bolt or a 14 mm bolt and they don't make a 13mm bolt and even if they did, it's not that either. 0.538" is 13.67mm.


I looked at the thread under a 10X lighted magnifier loop and it is a V thread, but the thread crest and root is very flat, not like a standard V thread bolt.

So I do what I always do in these situations, pull out the Machinery's Handbook. It is sort of the bible in the machine shop world.

I cannot find a combo that even comes close on the 20 TPI/1.25 TPI pitch on that odd ball diameter.

The thread crests/root (OD or ID) do not look like a sharp V. More flat like an ACME thread. H'mm maybe the trimmed off a 14mm thread for some reason. Nope the pitch is wrong.

So I go to the ACME table, nope wrong pitch and diameter no where close.

Buttress thread, well the TPI lines up but the thread profile is very wrong as is the diameter.

British ISO, nope wrong TPM and diameter

Lowenherz thread, nope wrong TPI and diameter

Whitworth thread, nope wrong TPI and diameter

This one has me curious as all get out what the heck it is. I cannot believe Lippert would create their own thread on camper stabilizer jack. Why not just use a standard SAE 1/2 UNF thread and be done with it.

I reached out to one of my machine shop buddies to see if he ever ran into this.

Technically a machinist can reproduce that thread from one of your other shoulder bolts. Give it to them, the lathe can cut 20 TPI no problem and he can make a tool bit to match the tread and they can single point the threads on. If you have to pay full price to get that one for 1 bolt, it may be cheaper to buy a new stabilizer. A buddy and a 6 pack of beer you might get it cheap.

I will let you know what I find out from my shop buddy. Maybe a club member has run into that thread before.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-09-2018, 11:35 AM   #18
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You drive a hard bargain, I'll give you 10 bucks for one of Ben's bolts. .

Interesting, you have to wonder what they were thinking?

I'll have have to attend the next meet and greet and bring a allen key.
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Old 03-09-2018, 11:56 AM   #19
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Please let me know what your buddy has to say.

Depending on what it looks like, getting it apart and how it is made... I could probably tap it for something larger (may have problem since the shoulder isn't much bigger than the threaded portion, but the hole in the stabilizer could be made larger too) or use a helicoil, which wouldn't be too bad for cost on a one time use compared to getting a custom bolt made. Depending on what the part actually looks like, I could probably drill it out to accept a threaded insert and epoxy/pin the insert in and buy a shoulder bolt that will work out.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:50 PM   #20
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Did you ask Lippert if they have one of these bolts available?
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