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Old 05-11-2019, 07:53 PM   #1
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Spring open up issue

So i have been getting the 2363 ready for memorial day weekend and doing standard stuff.cleaning,checking bulbs,blowing out behind the fridge and hot water heater compartment. So far seamless.then i get to flushing the water lines out of the antifreeze.i read the manual and it says with valves closed.i took that as faucets closed and hooked up city water with a pressure reg on to keep it at 40to 50 psi.kitchen faucet good and bathroom sink good.shower not good.i hook up the handle and its leaking at the connector.so after some investigation i findits leaking in the faucet itself.not a huge deal ill buy a replacement.so i take the access panel off and start to loosen the feed lines.they are pex and have a tri wing connection to a 90 elbow with male threads to connect the feed to and female threads to connect to the faucet.unfortunatly i cracked the tri wing connection on the hot water feed.is this a standard connection i can get a lowes or home depot?also the hot water take was leaking out the nylon plug and i realized it was probably in by pass and was looking for and exit and went out the weak point.i unscrew the plug and got a nice cold shower.im at work now so i cant look at the positioning of the bypass valves under the bed but should they be in line with the water lines and not sticking put perpendicular to the lines?and do i need to order a new nylon plug or is that also a standard stocked item at big box stores.lastly i have about 5 different keys for my various panels.can i just get standard 8035 locks and change them all out or is the size of the lock on sunlines different size than all others.i had a popup and everything was 1 8035 key to open all locks.obviously ill keep my door locks what they are. Thanks for reading

Rob
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Old 05-12-2019, 03:19 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robandash View Post

.so i take the access panel off and start to loosen the feed lines.they are pex and have a tri wing connection to a 90 elbow with male threads to connect the feed to and female threads to connect to the faucet.

unfortunatly i cracked the tri wing connection on the hot water feed.is this a standard connection i can get a lowes or home depot?

also the hot water take was leaking out the nylon plug and i realized it was probably in by pass and was looking for and exit and went out the weak point.i unscrew the plug and got a nice cold shower.im at work now so i cant look at the positioning of the bypass valves under the bed but should they be in line with the water lines and not sticking put perpendicular to the lines?

and do i need to order a new nylon plug or is that also a standard stocked item at big box stores.

lastly i have about 5 different keys for my various panels.can i just get standard 8035 locks and change them all out or is the size of the lock on sunlines different size than all others.i had a popup and everything was 1 8035 key to open all locks.obviously ill keep my door locks what they are. Thanks for reading

Rob
Hi Rob,

The 1/2" pex fittings are standard (I'm assuming you have a 1999 camper. Yes/No?) You can get them at Lowes/Home Depot.

Did the swivel nut totally crack or just one ear on it? If only one ear cracked and the outer band of the nut is still intact, that can still work to hold pressure. But, it would be good to replace in case the nut has a slight crack flaw starting in it to later let go while camping.

If you need to replace the fitting which included the nut, the standard pex fittings use copper crimp rings to hold the fitting to the hose. The fitting is cheap and simple, the crimp ring and putting a new on one needs a pex crimp tool to do this.

This is the 90 deg fitting at Lowes. Home Depot has them too
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182985

The issue will now be the crimp fitting. If your hose is long enough you can cut off the old fitting from the hose just before the fitting. This will shorten the hose by about 1/2" to 3/4". Then you need to install a copper crimp ring or a pinch crimp band. Both take a special tool, the crimp band may be cheaper.

The crimp band https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182819

This might be an option. It is a shark bite fitting that does not need a tool to crimp with but I would be cautious about using it inside a wall. Leaking is the concern but that can happen on a gasket swivel fitting too. And the fact that it does not swivel. You would have to screw it on the faucet then push on the hose. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182565

They might make a swivel connector with that push on fitting. You would have to check.

This is also an option that needs no tools but you may have to order it. A Flair It swivel fitting. These are on your water heater and other places on the camper. https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16816-P...e%2C330&sr=1-2

Suggest you replace the rubber cone washer to being new on both hot and cold when putting the new faucet on. One will come with the new fitting and odds are high you have to buy the whole fitting locally and rob the rubber washer out of it for the other usable fitting. If you are ordering on Amazon, then here is the part of the cone washer. It is an Add on item https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On the water heater, this is the Atwood Part number 91857 https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91857-...omotive&sr=1-1

They sell them at various RV parts places and a local RV dealer may have it too. The Atwood plugs are made for potable water and will hold up to the higher temps of the heater. Do not use a metal plug as if the metal plug cross threads, it can strip out the tank. The nylon plug will cross thread and the tank be OK.

The keys, the standard cargo hatch, power cord hatch, fresh water hatch key is CH751 from Sunline and many other camper manufacturers. You can buy them with the keyed barrel cam lock to fit the CH751 or you can change them all to a different key code. I agree, they all should be the same whatever key code you have.

Just heads on on the lock set, they are not all the same length to the little lever that catches inside the compartment. Make sure you get the right length for the cargo doors and then the fresh water/power cord door. And then they have the flat straight latch lever and an offset latch lever. Measure the ones you have and match them up.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:44 PM   #3
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John,again thanks for the reply and info you are an encyclopedia of knowledge.if your anywhere near pymatuning memorial day weekend i got beer with your name on it.yes it is a 1999,i attached a picture of what i broke and the fitting is not usable.the shark bite i may try as i actually already have one sitting in the plumbing tool box.now as for the nylon plug leaking i ordered a 2 pack,and i forgot to grab pictures but i think i left it in bypass mode and that coupled with not cracking the faucets open prior to hooking up city water led to the shower springing a leak and possible the nylon plug leaking.lastly i dont think i mentioned this but in the shower where the wall meets the tub should there be caulking there like in a house shower?i see a small gap and not sure if it is for flexing like i read in another post or.if it needs caulked to prevent water getting behind the surround and under the tub.
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Old 05-13-2019, 10:35 PM   #4
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Hi Rob,

Thanks for the good words. Glad to help.

I forgot to answer this before, on the bypass valves, normally the little lever is inline with the flow direction. If it is horizontal, it is flowing into the heater. If it is pointing vertical, it is flowing through the bypass. Some have 2 valves to flip, others have 1 valve to fip as it has a check valve at the top and no valve handle.

The shower, the shower basin has a 1" high lip on 3 sides. The shower wall surround fits over the 3 sided basin. The basin is usually mounted on a flexible floor of styrofoam board. The basin can flex independant of the rigid wall surround.

Along the door area, if you have a lower bar or other something for the shower door, that bottom bar needs to the caulked to the basin so water does not leak out onto the bath floor. However the 3 side walls does not have to be caulked other then the short transition ( ~ 1 to 2") from the door area to the side walls to stop and sneak around water.

Some want to caulk the walls on all sides as they feel it will stop a leak but never explained how the camper is made. It will not hurt to caulk it with flexible caulk but most caulk will crack over time with all the base flexing.

I use to caulk mine and about every 3 years I have to rip it all out and put new in. After I took a camper apart and saw the 1" lip on 3 sides, now I know why Sunline never caulked them from the factory. I have since stopped caulking the 3 sides of the walls. And that was now about 6 to 8 years ago. The only concern is the hose head dropping to the floor and spraying up into the joint on the 3 sides. It only happened once on me and I picked it up before it did any harm.

So, caulk as you see fit. Just do not use a hard setting caulk.

Pymatuning, yes we have camped there on the Ohio side many times. Also visited the PA side. A very nice park. Have fun! Just we will not be there this memorial day, sorry. Bummer you being that close.

Have fun camping!

John
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:56 PM   #5
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Update,ended up doing both shower water feed lines with the shark bite fitting.worked beautifully and tossed a little thread tape on the threads.water heater plug changed and that solved that.thanks again John and hopefully this helps someone else in the future.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:24 AM   #6
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Glad it all worked out. Thanks for reporting back.

And yes, knowing does help others in the future.
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