Small Generator Recommendations / What Generator Do you use?

[2manystoves]

Hi Everyone! Hope all made it through the icy winter (a tough one here for us in NJ) and is enjoying the weather finally cooperating!

Looking for opinions on generators this time...

We have a '95 T-2053 with the stock amenities (AC/Microwave, etc.) and were thinking about a portable, low noise generator that would handle the whole trailer. Sorry, but she is still covered up (for a few more days) so I can't tell you what the amp draw would be on the AC that Sunline used until I get under there....just curious if anyone has any advice on how large a genny we might need? (Not worried about running everything at once, but something that could handle the AC during hot weather, and water pump draw).

Would something like these Amazon.com: portable generator - Yamaha or Hyundai / 2000 to 2999 Watts / Generators / Power & Electrical: Automotive work or do I need to up the wattage? A buddy has the smaller Yamaha 2,000 watt unit (he doesn't use it for a TT) but I was very impressed with it's quietness, efficiency, and endurance.

Thanks!!!!
~2manystoves

[JohnB]

I have a Honda E2000 and I am very happy with it. It will run everything in the camper except the AC unit. While I can jury rig it to run just the AC, then it can't handle anything else.

In my case, I would buy the add on Honda and parallel them to get 4,000 watts is I wanted the AC. So far where we boondock off the grid we have not needed the AC, the Turbo max fan works good enough on the hot summer nights.

Yamaha makes a 2,700 watt and it will start the AC unit. Also a very good generator.

On the Honda line you need the 3000 watt model to run the AC or 2, 2000 units.

Both the Honda and the Yamaha are great unit, cost close to the same and have very similar features and low noise, forest service spark arrestor etc.

Hope this helps

John

[Skip]

I agree we have a Yamaha and it`s really quiet. Never used it for camping just for power outages but I love it. I have had it sit for 8 months and start right up and run like a watch

[mainah]

Times 3 on the Yamaha a Honda 2000 will not start an A/C unit some have changed the start cap in the A/C and have had some luck but at 2K watts it's pushing the limits. There are a lot of inverter generators on the market right now including Champion (they seem to be pushing the RV ideal) but the bottom line if you want quiet and reliability it's either Honda or Yamaha they really are worth the extra money. Stay away from any open frame generators despite what they say they are not quiet.

[jim44646]

There isn't any thing more annoying than sitting outside for peace and quit and hearing an open frame generator running all day. When more than one person is running them you might as well forget it and stay home.

[dkasten39828]

We have the Honda E2000i (thanx JohnB) for times when we do NOT need the AC.
It does a nice job. Used in a Walmart parking lot while enroute to the N GA mountains to warm up leftovers with the microwave.

We recently purchased the Champion Model 46514 (SKU 4434023) from Tractor Supply. It has enough power to fully power the Sunline. It's not as quiet as the Honda and is NOT an inverter-type, but it does the job. Used it at home to power up freezers in a outage.

[FiveORacing]

I have a 3000 watt Honda Knockoff (Chinese) frame generator I bought at a storage bin auction for $200. It runs everything in the camper except the Micro and A/c at the same time. With the A/C it's working pretty hard in the beginning. So I think the answer is you need about 3000 to run A/c and some lights. (or apparantly that 2700 Yamaha works ) I'm sure some may have done it on less but 2K won't do it (without stressing the genny) and 3K will pretty easily. I also had Two EU2000 units in parallel and they ran an even bigger camper with ease. Ideally I'd like to have 2 EU2000's again. I sold them with a large 5th wheel to make the deal happen, and regretted it ever since. If you look hard for deal a pair of them (one regular, one companion) will run you about $1600 -1700.

When I run the Chinese Genny I keep it far away from anything as I expect it will burst into flames one day.

I spent a lot of times at race tracks and when the cars are racing the generators make no noise at all

[Tod Osier]

We have the yamaha 2400 and it runs the AC well at sea level and mid elevations, but I'm suspicious that if you had it in high elevations it might not run the AC (with the stock jets it does not like to run the micro above 6-8K). It works well for the purpose we have. Our priorities were quiet (it is) and be the smallest that will run the AC if needed (it does).

the Yamaha 2400 is much larger than the Honda 2000s and I'd hesitate to go bigger than the Yamaha 2400 to lug around. It is not only heavier, but just bigger and tougher to deal with. I can really see why people go with 2 2000s.

[mainah]

I don't quite get the twin 2KW generators are opposed to one 3KW Honda. The twin setup is $2,500 and weighs 94# the 3KW weights 78# and costs $2,000. You now would have two generators to fuel and service instead of one and the single generator takes up less space. Oh and it’s also electric start. The 3KW Honda would run pretty much everything in a camper. I guess I tend to adhere to the K.I.S.S. principle.

[awellis3]

Originally Posted by Skip

I agree we have a Yamaha and it`s really quiet. Never used it for camping just for power outages but I love it. I have had it sit for 8 months and start right up and run like a watch

Quiet, reliable, well made AND has a fuel shut off that enables you to run the carb dry after each use. I live in the inner city and my garage is not secure (built for Model T Fords in 1917) so my Yamaha lives in my basement. Zero fuel smell.

Teach

[FiveORacing]

Originally Posted by mainah

I don't quite get the twin 2KW generators are opposed to one 3KW Honda. The twin setup is $2,500 and weighs 94# the 3KW weights 78# and costs $2,000. You now would have two generators to fuel and service instead of one and the single generator takes up less space. Oh and it’s also electric start. The 3KW Honda would run pretty much everything in a camper. I guess I tend to adhere to the K.I.S.S. principle.

I think there's good arguments to both sides, and a pretty close call. You can find them for about $1700-1800 for the pair if you shop around, so the prices are similar. You do get 4000 watts (rated) if you do need it and I think 48 pounds is a lot easier for some people than trying to lift 78. Electric start is nice, especially if remote start is an option, buy the 2000's are so easy to pull and usually start on the first pull.

[Tod Osier]

Originally Posted by mainah

I don't quite get the twin 2KW generators are opposed to one 3KW Honda. The twin setup is $2,500 and weighs 94# the 3KW weights 78# and costs $2,000. You now would have two generators to fuel and service instead of one and the single generator takes up less space. Oh and it’s also electric start. The 3KW Honda would run pretty much everything in a camper. I guess I tend to adhere to the K.I.S.S. principle.

I hear you mainah. Having the yamaha 2400 at 75#, I'd buy the 3000 honda to do it again at 78#, BUT! I can say that the thing is very tough to get around. I'm on the younger and more active end of the RVing spectrum and I can say that it is tough to get around for me, let alone those we may stereotype as the "typical RVer" - no offense to the geezers, I hope to be one some day . It isn't just the weight, the 2400/3000 watt generators are large enough that they are hard to fit through RV doors. My 2400 won't fit through the door with the handle to the sides (honda eu3000 is even longer) and your arms on the handles, just won't work. What you are left with is lifting with one handle and thrusting in levering it in with your body - I'm fine with that, but I can see myself in 20-30 years not wanting to do that. The larger generator often doesn't fit under the frame of the camper (honda eu3000 is taller) to get it out of the rain, is tough to move around in the truck without getting in and lifting it, etc.... Lots of downsides.... There are lots of reasons the paired 2000s are inviting, especially for someone less willing to physically manhandle the generator. I would buy the Honda 3000 if it existed when I bought, but it is new (and now the Yamaha is discontinued). If my 2400 lasts me as long as I hope, I will buy a paired set next.

[MACK C-85]

I think part of the draw to the paired 2000's is if you don't need the A/C you don't need both generators. Most of the year you can get away with the smaller, lighter single 2000....and only lug the second one in the hotter months.

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Tod Osier

... - no offense to the geezers, ....

Thank you.

[mainah]

Originally Posted by Tod Osier

I hear you mainah. Having the yamaha 2400 at 75#, I'd buy the 3000 honda to do it again at 78#, BUT! I can say that the thing is very tough to get around. I'm on the younger and more active end of the RVing spectrum and I can say that it is tough to get around for me, let alone those we may stereotype as the "typical RVer" - no offense to the geezers, I hope to be one some day . It isn't just the weight, the 2400/3000 watt generators are large enough that they are hard to fit through RV doors. My 2400 won't fit through the door with the handle to the sides (honda eu3000 is even longer) and your arms on the handles, just won't work. What you are left with is lifting with one handle and thrusting in levering it in with your body - I'm fine with that, but I can see myself in 20-30 years not wanting to do that. The larger generator often doesn't fit under the frame of the camper (honda eu3000 is taller) to get it out of the rain, is tough to move around in the truck without getting in and lifting it, etc.... Lots of downsides.... There are lots of reasons the paired 2000s are inviting, especially for someone less willing to physically manhandle the generator. I would buy the Honda 3000 if it existed when I bought, but it is new (and now the Yamaha is discontinued). If my 2400 lasts me as long as I hope, I will buy a paired set next.

I hear ya, I'm 68 so I guess I fit the geezer crowd how ever I still would buy the 3000 if I found it to be a pain it would live in the truck and the camper would be plugged into it. Having used the 3000 Honda and if I needed the power to run my stuff (I don't) that is what I would buy it is quieter that a single 2000 much less two and would serve all of the needs of a camper with only one unit. My camper generator is a 100 watt solar panel and home made rack (16#) and two batteries it is very quiet and requires no fuel. I see the logic of two generators but it makes life even more complicated and that is some thing I'm trying to avoid!

[Tod Osier]

Originally Posted by mainah

it would live in the truck and the camper would be plugged into it.

Running it in the truck is what often happens with mine.

I need to do some looking at solar. I'm just not happy with the charging situation with the generator, I seem to have to run it too much. With all the dry camping we do, I seem to need several hours of run time a day (especially if we need heat) to keep the batteries where they should be.

[mainah]

Originally Posted by Tod Osier

Running it in the truck is what often happens with mine.

I need to do some looking at solar. I'm just not happy with the charging situation with the generator, I seem to have to run it too much. With all the dry camping we do, I seem to need several hours of run time a day (especially if we need heat) to keep the batteries where they should be.

It's all about supply and demand. If you are using the standard light bulbs in your camper and use an inverter to run a microwave, coffee pot etc. it will take a long time to recharge your battery. The heater is an energy hog but it should be good for maybe two days on battery. Solar systems are for people that have low power demands because of the amount of power they can produce in an RV. Solar houses have a huge array of panels and the bottom line they have the space for them. The roof of a camper is not real big in the solar world so you will have to match the demand. Incandescent lighting takes a lot of power case in point my camper had 13 lamps total power 320 watts it now has 15 LED fixtures total wattage of only 25 watts. Propane has a lot of energy in a 20# jug I use it for cooking every thing including coffee. It can be done but there are things you just can't take with you. I'm not sure about your converter/charger but the more modern ones do a fair decent job of charging batteries even at 25 amps that's 300 watts worth of solar panels to match the charge rate.

[Tod Osier]

Originally Posted by mainah

It's all about supply and demand. If you are using the standard light bulbs in your camper and use an inverter to run a microwave, coffee pot etc. it will take a long time to recharge your battery. The heater is an energy hog but it should be good for maybe two days on battery. Solar systems are for people that have low power demands because of the amount of power they can produce in an RV. Solar houses have a huge array of panels and the bottom line they have the space for them. The roof of a camper is not real big in the solar world so you will have to match the demand. Incandescent lighting takes a lot of power case in point my camper had 13 lamps total power 320 watts it now has 15 LED fixtures total wattage of only 25 watts. Propane has a lot of energy in a 20# jug I use it for cooking every thing including coffee. It can be done but there are things you just can't take with you. I'm not sure about your converter/charger but the more modern ones do a fair decent job of charging batteries even at 25 amps that's 300 watts worth of solar panels to match the charge rate.

We are 100% LED, don't use any 120V devices on an inverter. I'm starting to wonder if one of my electrical components has extra draw (like the water pump or furnace fan). We have 2 group 24s on the tongue and have replaced them with no effect on longevity. Running the heat sparingly we barely get a night and the battery is down 12.2-3-4 from a good full charge. Even without heat, we seem to not get near what folks say for days of charge, just a couple days before we are down to 12.2-3-4.

Out converter gave us some trouble last weekend, so we may looking to do some work on the electrical system soon (but that is another question). Converter is a 2006.

[mainah]

Yeah that's not right I have been 5 days without any recharge no furnace but fan, water pump, lights ham radio, and the FM radio. I think it's time to have a good look at your converter/charger that is what I run for batteries a pair of 80 amps. By 2006 they were decent chargers of course that does not mean it's working properly they are switching power supplies both current and voltage regulating and most likely 35-45 amp chargers. The more modern a camper the more likely it is to have parasitic loads fridge, radio memories and little things like that but it is a small load. A DVM capable of reading loads would quickly let you know if that maybe a problem.

[Tod Osier]

Originally Posted by mainah

Yeah that's not right I have been 5 days without any recharge no furnace but fan, water pump, lights ham radio, and the FM radio. I think it's time to have a good look at your converter/charger that is what I run for batteries a pair of 80 amps. By 2006 they were decent chargers of course that does not mean it's working properly they are switching power supplies both current and voltage regulating and most likely 35-45 amp chargers. The more modern a camper the more likely it is to have parasitic loads fridge, radio memories and little things like that but it is a small load. A DVM capable of reading loads would quickly let you know if that maybe a problem.

When you say 5 days without recharge what are you looking at for volts at the end of that time - down under 50%/12.0 or up above that? I'm trying to generally keep them up above that inthe long-term, but maybe it isn't reasonible and the batteries will have to suffer. For extended trips it is hard to keep the batteries up in the 12.3-4-5 range without several hours (6-8?) of charging daily. Typically, we will try to be proactive and charge a bit in the morning and night (1-2 hours each), but I feel like we always loose every day and can't get what is lost back even with very minimal use of the 12V. It is fine since we usually try to go to town, shop, dump, water and plug in every week and can get fully charged. But I just feel like we are behind. It may be my expecations aren't reasonible given how much we run the generator and I interpret what folks say about charging wrong.

So you are saying get a DVM that can read load and check loads of the various components. I have several DVMs, but I'd have to get one to measure load, I think. Not a biggie if it gives useful information on loads.

As I said my converter gave me some trouble last weekend (kept cutting out), so I'm going to be working on the system some (yea!).