Slideout floor separating from wall under couch - Page 2

rich2500 · 08-28-2009, 04:38 AM

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Quote:

quote]Rich

You may have a point there as part of the reasoning. In the 2005 TT vintage the slides did not seem to lift up off thr floor as much as the 2004 and older vintages. Mine whille it has a Darco liner, barely if even that touches the carpet. It does a real heavy pivot and high lift action in the first approx 2 to 3" of retract travel. Mine has a metal formed trough embeded in the floor to help create that cam action. Does yours?

yes John I also have that trough,It has the roller in the middle and a nylon strip
(jeff also mentioned this) along the edge and while the slide is moving the floor is rolling on the roller and the nylon strip, if the floor was osb I would think that the slide movement would not be as smooth(just a guess)

**JohnB** · 08-28-2009, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rich2500

[

Quote:

quote]Rich

You may have a point there as part of the reasoning. In the 2005 TT vintage the slides did not seem to lift up off thr floor as much as the 2004 and older vintages. Mine whille it has a Darco liner, barely if even that touches the carpet. It does a real heavy pivot and high lift action in the first approx 2 to 3" of retract travel. Mine has a metal formed trough embeded in the floor to help create that cam action. Does yours?

yes John I also have that trough,It has the roller in the middle and a nylon strip
(jeff also mentioned this) along the edge and while the slide is moving the floor is rolling on the roller and the nylon strip, if the floor was osb I would think that the slide movement would not be as smooth(just a guess)

Rich

Thanks. H'mm I have not seen the roller or nylon strip. But I have not looked for it either. I do not even recall any wear lines in the Darco where the roller would be rolling on. I'll go look and reprot back with pics. Now you have me wondering.

Thanks

John

Galaxiedriver · 08-29-2009, 07:35 AM

I had some time yesterday to examine my slideout more closely. One thing I was wrong about is the slideout floor material. It is OSB, not particleboard. I was going by what the edge looked like and yesterday I pealed back some of the carpet pad and saw the big chips of OSB.

My floor slides on a rib of nylon or plastic that runs the full length of the slideout so I can have nothing protruding from the outside bottom ot the floor. It must be smooth or the plastic will be damaged.

This photo is the slideout starting in

This is with the slideout full out.

This photo shows the floor/plastic interface on the outside. Note the marks from sliding on the floor surface

My repair plan is this. I have removed the couch and pealed the wall panel off just enough to get a wrench in. I will drill a new hole a couple inches outboard from the faulty bolt and install a new 5/16 bolt and 1" washers. I will countersink the bolt head just enough not protrude. Also, I will install a lag screw with washer several inches inboard of the faulty bolt and run it up into the vertical frame member.

When the slideout is in, the failed OSB crack opens up so I will shoot that crack full of glue then run the slideout full out to squeeze it together then install the new bolt and lag screw.

I may also install an angle support on the inside but unless I run the floor bolts clear through, it would not be a strong fix.

I believe the root cause of my floor failure is that the countersunk holes were too deep and the inside edge of the slideout was not supported during the many miles the trailer has traveled. The OSB was simply pulled apart at the bolt.

**JohnB** · 08-29-2009, 08:03 PM

Paul

Super thanks for the pics and clearing up the actual OSB board. One of Sunline’s claim to fame was no partial board anywhere. Glad they did not use any. Mine then should be OSB board too.

Yours is made different then mine in many ways.

OK I went out to look today. Jeff said his had rollers under the slide bottom or I misunderstood. I have No rollers under the bottom. The actual metal slide mechanism made by Lippert has rolling guides but not under my slide floor.

See here. I have 2 pics as the light was not great in the pics to show this. This is outside with the slide out about 8 inches. You can see the metal trough. It is full length of the slide.

Here is a pic with the red line S shape to highlight the formed metal trough

That metal touches the Darco. The metal has a high shine smooth finish to it. The slide just rests on top of the smooth metal.

See here inside. This is about 6” from full open. The Darco covered bottom is on that smooth metal

And the metal is full length

When the slide is full open, the slide bottom drops down in the trough completely

And on the outside by droping down into that trough, it drops to block off any openings to the outside world.

I have had no problems with this setup. Which is better? Don’t know. Sunline had a reason to change and I don’t think it had anything to do with saving time or money on the Darco. Your plastic sliding strip with the counter sunk screws I’m sure may have cost more then my metal trough setup. The differences also help explain why my vintage lifts higher then the 2005 redesign. My style metal trough is slightly above the carpet more and as such it forced the slide higher up at an angle when retracting.

After now realizing how mine is made, I can see why they want slide transit bars installed on my vintage. The entire slide room just sits in the camper up on that metal trough when retracted. Yes it is tight against the side of the camper but the only thing from holding it from falling out is the where the slide attaches to the undercarriage slide mechanism. If I where to push at the top of the slide when retracted, I could push open the top and put great strain on the slide room to slide undercarriage connection.

This is the undercarriage I'm refering to. That vertial plate on each arm is all that is holding the slide to the camper other then pure weight and gravity.

How the 2005's vintage and foward do not need to use transit bars is now an unsloved mystery. They connect still in the same manner.

This has been an interesting learning post. Thanks

John

**JohnB** · 08-29-2009, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henryj

John and others with slides,

I don't have a slide, obviously, so I can't look in my trailer... but I was wondering for those looking for a prop rod--which sounds like an important item--whether a typical trigger clamp converted to a spreader would work. Could a longer one be sawed off to just the right length? How would this clamp compare in strength and functionality to a prop rod, which I have never seen.

Henry

Henry

Your thoughts are always welcome even if you do not have a slide nor have ever seen one…... Sunline Fan let me borrow a slide transit bar system used from an older Sunline if I wanted to reproduce it. I’ll take some pics on Sunday of it, and my so called Transit bars aka prop rods. The prop rod version is about as simple as you can get. The mechanism Sunline Fan let me borrow is a very involved setup. More on Sunday.

Thanks and keep the thoughts a coming

John

Galaxiedriver · 08-30-2009, 12:08 PM

I have completed the repair of my floor problem. Here ya go.

to get inside the wall, the couch was easy to remove. It was secured with three screws. The 4th was not installed.

This is the floor before doing anything.

I cramed the failed OSB crack with heavy duty exterior liquid nails. It is clamped with the weight of the slideout.

The new bolt installed.

Installing the Lag bolt. This bolt goes into a drilled hole up into the vertical frame member. The red stuff on my hand is explained below.

Here is the new bolt inside the wall. Watch those staples that are not fully removed. they bite.

Here is the completed repair from outside.

**JohnB** · 08-30-2009, 08:28 PM

Paul

Good job!! And thanks for posting. This really helps.

Your couch, is that the sofa bed with the pull out bed? We have the jack knife couch, flop down to the most uncomfortable sleeping surface I have seen.... or felt. The jack knife couch is screwed to a wood frame work about a foot up off the floor. I did not see that on yours.

Sorry about those staples. Yes they bite...

John

264SRinPA · 08-31-2009, 03:11 PM

John,
As for the reason the newer models don't have the transit bars? I tried pushing out on the top of our slide, and it didn't move at all. Maybe there are some small differences.

**JohnB** · 08-31-2009, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 264SRinPA

John,
As for the reason the newer models don't have the transit bars? I tried pushing out on the top of our slide, and it didn't move at all. Maybe there are some small differences.

Mike, Thanks.

Yes there must be a difference. I tried this weekend again. Slide full in, hand on top with no transit bars in and out she goes. Now I'm really curious on what they changed and how??? Any ideas?

John

At the ADK M & G, there will be 2 other newer slide models besides mine. If we do not get it figuired out by then, I'll investagate and report back. Hutch will have his and so will Mike B.

MACK C-85 · 09-01-2009, 07:30 AM

John: I checked our slide and the '07 is the same as Mike's, solid as a rock when in and uses no prop bars.

**JohnB** · 09-01-2009, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MACK C-85

John: I checked our slide and the '07 is the same as Mike's, solid as a rock when in and uses no prop bars.

Mack, thanks. OK something has really changed. Now to what??

John