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Old 01-27-2018, 12:16 AM   #1
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SHURflo 2088 Water Pump Rebuild

On my last trip out with my '97, I experienced water pump failure. I was in a campground hooked up to city water when I suddenly found the bedroom carpet soaking wet.

This happened for two reasons:
- The back flow prevention valve in the water pump failed somehow, allowing city water pressure to flow back through the pump.
- Past the pump is the winterizing kit, to allow the pump to suck antifreeze from a jug. I had yet to winterize this trailer myself and the valve was left turned to the antifreeze hose, not to the fresh water tank.

As a result, the water pressure fed back through the pump, through the antifreeze hose, and poured onto the carpet. It was a wet mess. When I discovered this, I turned the valve to fill the fresh water tank. I got through the rest of the weekend by having the city water fill the fresh water tank (this is not a normal feature!) and emptied the tank a couple times, as well as kept the water supply off when I could.

I provided the above details to help diagnose if your pump is failing and what you can do to keep camping, or know how to fix if your fresh tank is mysteriously filling. This option is a good alternative to fixing a bad water pump, but assuming you still have a good pump motor.

Luckily many SHURflo replacement parts are still available for the 2088 pump. Since I strive for a historically accurate restoration with this trailer, I didn't want to replace the entire pump. My pump is the original 09/96 date coded pump:



Since my winterizing hose leaked out in that area, it was impossible for me to tell if any parts of the pump were leaking externally. After pricing out the different components, it really makes the most sense to buy a whole new pump head for about $50. Here's the assembly: https://autoplicity.com/9059515-shur...plete-pumphead

The new pump head comes in a box preassembled, with detailed instructions, ready for installation. The only thing it doesn't come with are new elbows or fittings to connect to the trailer. Since they are 1/2" pipe thread standard plumbing parts, they are easy to find, so it's a good idea to replace them to prevent water leaks.

To change the part:

1) Shut off and drain all water systems.
2) Ensure power is off to pump. It couldn't hurt to disconnect the battery, unless you need light to work.
3) Disconnect water lines to the pump by unscrewing them. Wiggle them around and away from the pump fittings.
4) Unplug the red power wire between the trailer and the pump. This is the plug in wire toward the end of the pump housing. Follow the wire if you need. Do not disconnect the wire coming from the motor yet.
5) Disconnect the ground wire with the wire nut, where it connects to the trailer.
6) Remove the three #2 square screws that hold the pump to the floor of the trailer.
7) Lift up and remove pump.
8 ) With the pump on a table, remove the three screws holding the pump head to the motor. These are the screws at 10:00, 2:00, and 6:00, and are indicated with the green and red arrows below. ***Note, the three screws at 12:00, 4:00, and 8:00 just hold the pump head together and do not need to be removed to remove the pump head. Do not touch any of the screws covered with a red X in the picture below, you don't need to touch them.



9) Carefully pull out on the pump head from the motor and it should release.
10) Disconnect the red wire between the motor and pump head. Notice it plugs into the spot closest to the motor of the two spots.
11) Back feed this wire through the hole in the pump bracket.
12) Remove pump head entirely from motor.
13) Install new pump head on motor shaft, noting the flat spot for alignment.
14) Reinstall the three mounting screws and tighten.
15) Feed the red wire back through the bracket hole and plug in to the spot on the head, closest to the motor.
16) Install new elbows onto pump and tighten.
17) Reinstall pump in trailer, to the floor.
18 ) Reconnect red power wire from trailer, on the end farthest from the motor. The new pump head includes a new red power wire, which you can use if your old one is questionable. But if not, just plug and play.
19) Reconnect water supply lines.
20) Turn water back on/fill water tank. Pressure test water pump both with city water (for back flow) and from holding tank (for actual pump test) to ensure all works good and there are no leaks.

If you aren't happy with the water pressure on pump water, you can adjust the adjustment screw on the end of the pump that's marked.

Here's what my old pump looked like internally. The rubber was very brittle and probably wasn't working well. I'm glad I replaced it. The pump (and rest of the water lines) had anti-freeze in them the majority of the year, every year.:



The new internals, for comparison. Note that these new pump heads must be factory tested and are internally filled with some clear liquid. I want to assume this is alcohol so it won't freeze. Be careful if you power up the newly rebuilt pump without it connected to water lines. Note the reason for disassembly is because I changed the diaphragm housing back to the original one. You do not need to disassemble the new one like this just to install it.



My fully reassembled pump, with the old head, waiting to go back in the trailer:



The newly rebuilt pump by itself. Note the new shutoff valve over there. After consulting with JohnB, I decided to add this. I almost never use the pump/fresh water tank other than to winterize. The valve will be a first layer of protection against city water pressure. If I want to use the pump, I just turn this valve on and it'll work just like it always did. The brass valve on the inlet side is part of the winterizing kit.



I'll have to wait until spring to reinstall and see how it works.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 01-27-2018, 03:06 PM   #2
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Hi Jon,

Great Post!!!

To this, ouch....
Quote:
- Past the pump is the winterizing kit, to allow the pump to suck antifreeze from a jug. I had yet to winterize this trailer myself and the valve was left turned to the antifreeze hose, not to the fresh water tank.

As a result, the water pressure fed back through the pump, through the antifreeze hose, and poured onto the carpet. It was a wet mess. When I discovered this, I turned the valve to fill the fresh water tank.
WOW... I blow out the the T310SR since we bought it so I do not have the winterizing valve and the T2499 did not either. I made my own setup. This brings up a topic on the 3 way winterizing valve. The ones I have seen, had a brass cap with a rubber washer inside to screw onto the anti freeze port. Now I know exactly what that cap is for. Ideally when the owner is done pumping the anti freeze, they

First... turn the valve back to the normal position.
Second. Remove the antifreeze hose
Third. Put the brass cap back on the anti-freeze port.

If that valve ever vibrates any level of open it will allow the pump to suck air, a problem. And allow some level of water into the camper all over the floor, a big problem. Since there is often a hole in the floor for the pump suction hose coming up through it, that is not a water tight hole in the floor. Water laying on the floor if it is enough, can find that hole and then run down into the camper floor joist area which is filled with batt insulation and sealed up tight with Darco or an aluminum cover.

Is your fresh tank inside the camper under the bed or something or under the camper outside?

If it is under the camper outside, and the pump suction hose through the floor, did you check to see if water worked it's way down into the joist area?

jim44646 had a water heater fitting crack on his and oh....what a mess. He had to dry out the bottom of the camper. He can explain how to got out the issue...

I thought you had a moisture meter, you can scan the Darco (us on wall mode) and it will find it if this is a problem.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-27-2018, 06:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Hi Jon,

Great Post!!!

To this, ouch....


WOW... I blow out the the T310SR since we bought it so I do not have the winterizing valve and the T2499 did not either. I made my own setup. This brings up a topic on the 3 way winterizing valve. The ones I have seen, had a brass cap with a rubber washer inside to screw onto the anti freeze port. Now I know exactly what that cap is for. Ideally when the owner is done pumping the anti freeze, they

First... turn the valve back to the normal position.
Second. Remove the antifreeze hose
Third. Put the brass cap back on the anti-freeze port.

If that valve ever vibrates any level of open it will allow the pump to suck air, a problem. And allow some level of water into the camper all over the floor, a big problem. Since there is often a hole in the floor for the pump suction hose coming up through it, that is not a water tight hole in the floor. Water laying on the floor if it is enough, can find that hole and then run down into the camper floor joist area which is filled with batt insulation and sealed up tight with Darco or an aluminum cover.

Is your fresh tank inside the camper under the bed or something or under the camper outside?

If it is under the camper outside, and the pump suction hose through the floor, did you check to see if water worked it's way down into the joist area?

jim44646 had a water heater fitting crack on his and oh....what a mess. He had to dry out the bottom of the camper. He can explain how to got out the issue...

I thought you had a moisture meter, you can scan the Darco (us on wall mode) and it will find it if this is a problem.

Hope this helps

John
Hi John,

Turns out I found a package in the trailer for a winterizing kit, and it has this brass cap you described. I'll be making sure to use this from now on!

My water tank is under the bed, right next to the pump, so i guess that's good that there's nothing going through the floor. The closest thing that goes through would be the toilet, and then the next closest would be one of the stink pipes. It seems like the carpet absorbed most of the water, and it was concentrated right in the middle of the trailer. So the only thing going into the floor are screws, for the water pump, hold down blocks for the water tank, bed frame, etc. Between running the A/C a lot of the weekend and soaking up with towels, the carpet was damp by the end of that weekend, but not soaking wet.

Per our conversation, I checked the Darco tonight with the moisture meter, and it pegged to 100% in many spots around the trailer. But that may be environment and weather related, it may or may not be indicating a major water issue. TBD. I wouldn't expect actual liquid floating around on the top side of the Darco since there aren't any holes going through. I didn't take any pictures because I was using my phone as a flashlight.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:49 AM   #4
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Hi Jon,
Hopefully, the underside did not receive any of that water.
I've found that when a water leak is caught early (like you did) and steps are taken to dry it out, there's no concern about mold, mildew etc. becoming a problem. With no continuation of water intrusion, the wood and carpet dry out and everything is fine. I's only when the problem is neglected and water continues to feed the soaked situation that it becomes a remove and install project.

Nice job on all aspects of your restoration!
Rich
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Old 01-28-2018, 01:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Hi Jon,
Hopefully, the underside did not receive any of that water.
I've found that when a water leak is caught early (like you did) and steps are taken to dry it out, there's no concern about mold, mildew etc. becoming a problem. With no continuation of water intrusion, the wood and carpet dry out and everything is fine. I's only when the problem is neglected and water continues to feed the soaked situation that it becomes a remove and install project.

Nice job on all aspects of your restoration!
Rich
Hi Rich,

I'm hoping so too. The water was only on for a couple hours before I found it, and I don't know at what point the pump failed. I left the storage door over there open most of the weekend so outside breezes could dry out the carpet too. I still have some testing to do in the spring- I think the source was only from the pump and hose, but I want to make sure none of the water lines are truly split. It didn't seem to get any wetter with it moved to fill the tank, but I don't know for sure. I felt all the water lines around there and I didn't feel anything wrong with them.

My pinhole issue in the spring may have put some water down into the Darco, because it was about an inch away from the low point drain. It wasn't gushing though, it was just a light spray because it was such a small hole. Again, caught pretty early, and then I left the water off to the coach and drained the low points except when I needed to use it. The carpet did soak up a lot and I only noticed it because it got wet where I stepped, maybe a foot away from the hole. There was a small puddle outside by that low point, so hopefully any drips just followed the pipe down and out.

Either way, hopefully 2018 will be much better for it. 2017 was a stressful camping year with both trips having major issues!
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 01-28-2018, 01:45 PM   #6
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I was just thinking today, back from my days in RV parts, I think all we sold were complete water pumps. I would bet you still couldn't find the above kit at a dealer, but they may be able to order it. I specifically remember people coming in and asking for pump parts and all I could do was sell them a new $100 pump.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vcrt View Post
Hi Jon,
Hopefully, the underside did not receive any of that water.
I've found that when a water leak is caught early (like you did) and steps are taken to dry it out, there's no concern about mold, mildew etc. becoming a problem. With no continuation of water intrusion, the wood and carpet dry out and everything is fine. I's only when the problem is neglected and water continues to feed the soaked situation that it becomes a remove and install project.

Nice job on all aspects of your restoration!
Rich
Yes, Iíve flooded our coach several times. Once was a high pressure campground and a failed sink connection, but also de winterizing with the fresh tank disconnected (oops) and once working on plumbing (oops) I always open everything up and put a fan in it after sopping up what I can. Iím sure it isnít ideal, but there doesnít seem to be any harm from a quick accident if cleaned up quickly.
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