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Old 12-31-2007, 07:03 AM   #1
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Shower Caulking --- what type?

hi all:

yesterday i was visiting the trailer (in storage) and noticed that the caulking around the bottom of the shower had pulled away --- so now i have to replace the caulking on the shower pan.

i am hoping that there is an overlap between the pan and the wall so that we can get a couple showers before the caulking is replaced - especially since we are headed to florida in the spring and its now too cold to do caulking here (or is it?)

what is the best caulking to use to seal the shower pan to the wall?

if i do it with some heat in the trailer for a couple of days(plugged in at home) - say up to 40 degrees, do you think it will hold if left for 2-3 days before we head to florida?

i know that it will use a ton of lp to fun the furnace for a couple of days in the winter up here but would be willing if i could just heat above freezing to allow the caulking to take --- opinion?

thanks

alex
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Old 12-31-2007, 10:42 AM   #2
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Any good quality caulk that is designed for shower/bathtub use should work fine. I would check the label to make sure it is good for use on plastic walls and bases, however.

I seem to recall you need to apply that stuff in temps of at least 60 F. if not warmer. Again, check the label when you buy.

FWIW, for something like this, I'd head for my nearby home improvement center, not the RV dealer. They both sell the same stuff for these applications, but the RV dealers have a funny habit of marking the price way up on things, regardles of common availability elsewhere.

And, you will most certainly find a better selection at the home improvement center.
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Old 12-31-2007, 08:07 PM   #3
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I have used brand name bath chalk, silicone based, in both of mine. GE one time and DAP the 2nd camper. Have had good luck with both. What I peeled out that Sunline put on at the factory, peeled out just like silicone.

And I agree with Steve, make sure it is OK to use on plastics and the lumber yard is just as good for “this” interior application, from what I have found.

Now on temperature, here I would read the label. I have left a tube of silicone caulk in the shed and when it freezes, it changes the make up and it is then trash and will never setup right again…... Some also have a 24 hour cure time before use.

I do not know if 40F will be enough. Again the label may tell you, I “think” mine stated 60F or above.

Good luck.

PS. One option, take it with you. Clean up the shower now, scrape out anything you are going to now. On the drive to FLA, when the weather breaks to warmer, apply. You may have to find alternate showers for a day or so, but this might be an option.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-01-2008, 08:25 AM   #4
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I would recommend a urethane or poly urethane caulk and you will never have to recaulk the shower again,these caulks are available at home depot or lowes in several colors,urethane or poly urethane caulks adhere to almost anything and once it dries it's permanent,the only way to get it off is to cut it off.Our caulk in our shower started to peel after the first time we used it so I cleaned out the factory silicone and used white urethane that was over three years ago and it still looks like the day I put it on,as a matter of fact my entire camper is sealed with urethane except for the roof.sorry for the long post and no disreguards to Steve and John but I have done lots of product testing in the automotive field on caulks and the only ones that are good are all urethane based,silicone has it's place but in my opinion it's not in rv's
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Old 01-01-2008, 09:20 AM   #5
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Rich

Do you have some brands of this Urethane caulk? Going to the caulk aisle in the home stores now days is like looking for toothpaste. What variety do you want...

I may check into them and find them better.

Thanks

John
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Old 01-01-2008, 01:29 PM   #6
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thanks so much for the information - i think i will try the urethane caulking if that means that i don't have to do it again for a while --- off to rona (canadian home depot type store) to see what they have --- I was hoping to change the thermo out to digital first (christmas present) but i guess the shower first then the thermo!

modification/repair season is now upon us!
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Old 01-01-2008, 01:39 PM   #7
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the urethane I use the most that I get at home depot is 3m 5200 marine,I also get some from work made by fusor or another brand from home depot or lowes is PL siding and window(if I remember correctly this is poly urethane)they all work great the only thing with the PL brand that I have found is that it turns slightly yellow from the sun,where I used this on the outside of my camper I had to come back and paint it white,but it has never cracked or peeled.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:45 PM   #8
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Is 3m 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant Removeable?

Rich,

Thanks for your posts over the years that I've seen on this site related to the 3m 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant and it's permanent properties. Hopefully you can comment on this:

Recently, we bought a '92 1740 Saturn TT that is in great shape. In fact, we were told that the shower had never been used as a shower, but rather for additional storage. This small toilet/shower area is immaculate except for one small 2' crack along the top of the pan 'lip' running parallel to the shower wall. It does not go behind the wall or include any part of the bend that turns down into the shower pan.

We may use this shower from time to time, so I have drilled a small stop hole at each end of the crack and now want to permanently seal with the 3m 5200. Once I clean the area with alcohol, is this a good solution vs silicone? Should the 3m 5200 be used where you would normally caulk such as where the wall meets the pan? Or, is it even necessary to caulk or use this 3m 5200 around the pan where the wall meets since the wall overlaps the pan flange?

I have a few small screw holes in the shower walls where the PO's had installed some very small shelves. Should these be sealed with a mold-resistant bathroom caulk, or is the 3m 5200 overkill? Same for the vertical corners of the shower where the factory 'beads' of 'rubber(?)' are?

I apologize for all the questions, but my main concern is regarding how 'permanent' the 3m 5200 is? On one hand, I want the crack in the pan to be permanently sealed. On the other, I wonder if it should not be used around the base where the pan and wall meet if I should want to replace the pan at a future date. I'm concerned that I would end up destroying my wall trying to separate the two?

Any thoughts from any and all would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Pete
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:54 AM   #9
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Don't use silicone anywhere on an RV--the bead will never crack, but it's not particularly sticky and will eventually separate from any surface due to road vibration. Silicone caulk is still the same product it was 40 or so years ago. It has been surpassed many times by various brands of high tech caulk.

I use Lepages Quad everywhere on the RV except the roof which does require Dicor self levelling.

If the crack shifts as you move your weight around on the pan, it will be harder to repair. If you have a decent flat surface at the crack, I'd be tempted to try Dicor self levelling. It's quite "liquid" and will flow over the crack as opposed to laying down a bead on top of it. However, it will also flow down the edge onto the pan if you don't have a flat surface--or stick something on the edge to contain it. Dicor is not particularly flexible as it ages, but it is very sticky and not likely to separate after a full cure. It will eventually need to be re-done as no caulk is a permanent fix, but cleans up well with mineral spirits.

Henry
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:09 PM   #10
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Shower Pan Repair

Henry,

Thank you so much for weighing in. I have been so focused on the 3m 5200's marine and permanence properties, that I hadn't thought about it laying on top of the crack as opposed to sealing by flowing over and into the crack.

Therefore, to aide in my decision as to whether to use the Lepages Quad or Dicor Self Leveling, it sounds like I should stand in the shower, move around and look closely to determine whether I have any flexing at the crack location. If I end up trying the Dicor, I will definitely contain the flow as you suggested so as to not have it run over the edge. So far, I don't believe any part of the crack runs over the rolled edge from the top flat portion, but it is very close.

So, in your opinion, between Lepages Quad, Dicor Self Leveling and the 3m 5200, which do you think is going to better ensure that the crack doesn't grow and allow water to get through and down underneath the pan?

Thanks,
Pete
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Old 11-20-2015, 04:05 PM   #11
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I'm not familiar with 3m 5200, but did a bit of googling--doesn't appear to stick to plastic. Amazon also has some info.

The problem with any caulk that forms a bead is that it won't hold well on a flat surface--some kind of edge, ideally a 90° corner, is needed to get enough bite. Unless you can find that 3m 5200 will stick to plastic, I think Dicor self levelling is your best bet as it's designed for a flat surface with no edge. How close is the crack to the wall--can you run a bead against the wall and cover the crack? Then any good caulk like Quad would work.

Dicor self levelling is available at RV dealers or Amazon. Make sure it's self levelling as there's also a regular bead type of Dicor.

Henry
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:03 PM   #12
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Possible Consideration?

Thanks Henry,

Sorry to belabor this, but unfortunately, the crack starts close to the wall and tails away at an angle towards the 90 degree edge that rolls into the pan. It doesn't hit that edge, but is very close. Tough decision as to which product to use.

I removed the inspection panel to look at the crack from the underside as well as access the large nut that I will need to loosen in order to remove the old caulk under the drain flange and replace with new.

Regarding the crack, I was wondering whether this would even be an option. First, apply some Butyl tape on the underside of the crack since it is waterproof and has flexibility for a long time. Then, from the topside, if I have enough flat area, build a 'dam' to contain the self leveling Dicor. If it doesn't appear to have enough flat area to do this, I could either apply the 3m 5200 or the Lepages Quad.

Do you think that the underside Butyl tape would stay in place and contain whatever material I pour into the crack? Would either of the topside treatments destroy or separate the Butyl tape on the underside of the crack? Maybe the Butyl tape is a bad idea?

Thanks Again,
Pete
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