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Old 08-03-2017, 08:00 PM   #1
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Severe water damage

I just bought a used t-1950. No clue the year or model as they had no title.

It has A LOT more water damage than I thought it would. All of the trusses that I have gotten to are completely rotten. I need to get to the outer ones along the side and the back of the camper to start the framing. My question is how do you get the siding off without damaging in?

Also, looks like I will need to take the water heater out to get to the floor under it. Is that a difficult task?

Also, I am surprised the trusses run parallel to the structureal beams in the camper and not perpendicular. Is there a reason for that it should I reframe it with the perpendicular ?

And last. The black and gray water tanks, how are the mounted? If I tear out all the truss will they fall?

Sorry, very handy but this one has gotten to me.
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:22 PM   #2
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Hi Parkspop,

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club!!! It looks like you have a real project on your hands. We have seen these before and will try and help as we can.

Before I type a bunch about the wrong part of the camper, a quick question.

Your pics show rotten floor joists. But your wording says, "trusses". We use the words trusses for the rafters in the ceiling which in this case may be rotted too.

Do you have rotted floor joists and rotted rafters in the ceiling?

I'm working now on your other questions.

Thanks

John
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parkspop View Post
I just bought a used t-1950. No clue the year or model as they had no title.
The wording T-1950 is an actual model number. And by the 2 pics you have shown us, this does look like an older T-1950.

Does the camper have a metal aluminium roof or a rubber roof? This will help us bracket the year pre or post the change to rubber at least and also help tell us what roof system you have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parkspop View Post
It has A LOT more water damage than I thought it would. All of the trusses that I have gotten to are completely rotten. I need to get to the outer ones along the side and the back of the camper to start the framing. My question is how do you get the siding off without damaging in?
We need to understand your wording trusses, do you mean the trusses in the roof system supporting the roof? (like rafters)

To get the siding off the camper, you start at the bottom of the camper. The very bottom piece has staples shot up from the bottom into the floor system. Take all those staples out. All the windows, siding corner molding, fender skirts, hot water heater, cargo hole doors etc have to come out first in the area you want to take the siding off. Assuming you are going all the way to the top of the wall taking the siding off.

Once the bottom piece of siding is off, you keep pulling more stables at the bottom of the piece above the one you just took off.

We have a T-1950 project camper with a lot of good pics on how it comes apart that we can show you to help. See this post. 2004 T1950 Restoration Project - (Ugly Picture Heavy)

A few tips. When you pull the corner moldings off or windows, you take all the screws out first. Molding screws are on the outside, windows the screws are on the inside. Then using a heat gun, warm the flanges all around and using a very dull stiff blade putty knife, (no sharp edges to not scratch the siding,) work the blade under one corner with gently pry pressure and keep heating until the putty tape starts to release. As the tape releases, keep heating and the molding or window will come out.

For staple pulling, see this link it will take you right to the staple pulling pics
2004 T1950 Restoration Project - (Ugly Picture Heavy)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parkspop View Post
Also, looks like I will need to take the water heater out to get to the floor under it. Is that a difficult task?
The water heater comes out just like a cargo hole door unit. Take all the screws on the outside off, heat the flange and gently pry and lift and it will come out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parkspop View Post
Also, I am surprised the trusses run parallel to the structureal beams in the camper and not perpendicular. Is there a reason for that it should I reframe it with the perpendicular ?
Again, your pics show rotted floor joists. And yes they run left to right in the camper from side to side on purpose. They lay over the top of the metal camper frame under them. They need to run left to right of the camper to hold all the load of the camper above it and be supported by the metal frame.

The roof trusses or rafters also run left to right of the camper and on purpose. They create roof pitch as they are arched if your camper is new enough. Years ago they had a flat roof, no arch and really no trusses, only rafters that had very little to no arch. Sort of a beam only. Does your roof have any pitch or if it flat? If you are redoing the whole roof, I suggest you create roof trusses or arched rafters so the water runs off. Once we figure out what you have, metal or rubber roof, and flat roof or arched, we can help show you with pics how to do this.

See the 2004 T-1950 I linked you too. This camper has the newer roof trusses that are arched.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parkspop View Post
And last. The black and gray water tanks, how are the mounted? If I tear out all the truss will they fall?

Sorry, very handy but this one has gotten to me.
Here without knowing the year of your camper, the black and gray tank attaching method may have changed. On the newer campers, the tanks where screwed with metal clips to the bottom of the camper floor system. They look like this. See this tank repair post. The metal clips are rusted on the side of the black tanks. You take those screws out and if the plumbing is unhooked, the tank will come down. If yours does not have these clips, then it is much older and I have not taken those tanks down to know what fastener system they used.

Black tank questions.. With pics

We are here to help. Your pics you add really help show us what you are up against. Us them often and they help others fixing their camper too.

Best of luck on your camper

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:40 PM   #4
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John, thank you so much! Not knowing what I am doing obviously. That is the floor, so joists. The roof seems to be metal and fairly flat.

If I remember right the tank is held up by the clips like the photo you posted. Are those then screwed into the joists? If so with all the rotten wood I assume those will have to come down.
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:16 PM   #5
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Hi, No worries on the wording, just trying to get it right. We are here to help

Yes, the tank clips are screwed into the floor joists. If the wood is bad and you are going to replace it, then clips will need to come off. The tanks, this depends on how hard it will be to unhook the piping. You might be able to just lower the tank a small amount and block it up. Fix the floor and then push the tanks back up again and put new screws back in and not have to deal with the pipes.

If the tank really needs to come out then, on mine in those pics, If I wanted to drop the tanks, I would have to cut some of the vent pipes in a place I can put a coupling or union back in when I go to put the tank back in. The vent pipe up to the roof might be solvent cemented into the tank, OR have a rubber grommet on yours. Mine are solvent weld. If you have the solvent weld fitting, you have to cut the pipe. If you have the grommet, you should be able to pull the pipe up out of the grommet and out.

You still may need to cut the gray tank discharge pipe under the camper to the dump port. They may be all solvent weld. You will have to look.

Since your floor joists are all bad so far and you need to take the outer edge of them off, you are going to have to think about how to support the walls and ceiling. When you take all the floor framing out, there is nothing left holding up the walls. I will have this same issue on mine, just I have not made it to that point yet.

A question is, how is the roof and ceiling? Is this full of rot too? Since you are doing all this work you need to find where the water got it. And it may be many places. On mine, the roof leaked in the joints at the rear wall. Water got in, then into the ceiling some and a most went down the 2 corners of the camper. It infected the entire back wall, 2 side walls and the floor. The roof area is where it started and everything down stream of the water path was taken out with it. The water proof membrane under the floor held the water in. Mine has a black plastic heavy material. Does yours have plastic of a large sheet of aluminum as the bottom barrier?

When you take the siding off you can see what the walls inside look like. This may direct you to go up into the ceiling, to address all the rot up there. If this is the case, I would take the roof off and try to leave the ceiling intact if I can. I say this to save the ceiling board and not have to deal with taking all the cabinets out. It saves the inside look and I can fix it from the outside. But if the ceiling board is gone too with rot, then it won't matter much which way you go up there. Point is, you really have to find all the water infection locations on a rebuild this big. Doing all this fix'in and missing a leak is heart wrenching later.

This post may help on the roof and back wall fix if yours comes to this. We had to take the whole roof off, front siding, rear siding, rebuild and put new roof on. We never went inside the camper to fix anything. Did it all from the outside in. We had to floor rot thankfully. This one was and will be easier to fix them the T-1950 I'm working on now. You may pick up some good hints from the camper repair process and materials from this post too.
A Winter Project - Roof Repair (Picture heavy)

And this post on a moisture meter can help you trouble shoot where water is and or is not in walls or ceilings you have not yet took apart. Moisture Meters For Inspecting a Camper

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:39 PM   #6
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So far the ceiling seems to be solid, I really haven't dug intonit yet as my first order of business is getting the floor fixed. Once the floor is fixed I will feel a lot better about takeling other parts as I will have a firm footing. I may work on taking the siding off of one side to see how it looks from the outside. Fortunately the wall studs that I have exposed look to be in decent shape.

There is a black fabric membrane under the floor, it is not metal.
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Old 08-04-2017, 03:23 PM   #7
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Welcome! That looks like a 1995 or 1996, but if you can post a picture of the exterior, I can tell you for sure.
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Old 08-04-2017, 04:13 PM   #8
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Here is the outside
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Old 08-04-2017, 04:35 PM   #9
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Oh ok, so it's a 1994.

I was going by the wallpaper, and it didn't look like what either of my '94s had. Might be a very late 1994.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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