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Old 01-31-2007, 01:35 PM   #1
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Happytrails
Roof Indent

We have a 276SR (or 267SR) year 2005. On the roof infront of the airconditioner there is a large indentention. The dealer says this is how it was constructed, but I find it strange because then water could collect there. I thought the roof had to be all curved so the water rolls off. Does anyone know about this and how these Sunlines were made? I am always skeptical and need a second opinion.

Thank you.
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:07 PM   #2
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Your roof dimple was caused by something.The dent must be between a set of roof rafters.As long as its not punctured thru the outer surface youll be ok.I know your not supposed to but I gently place my 215lbs up there on our T-276sr to put the cover on, only crawling on hands and knees from rafter to rafter.I could see where something not to heavy could cause the thin so called plywood sheating under neath to cave in,like maybe someone sitting in that section to work on the A/C.I dont think enough rain water weight puddling in that spot would cause any more damage.Short of removing a inside roof pannel to push it up or maybe a plunger up top to pull it out I would suggest you live with it.
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Old 01-31-2007, 09:55 PM   #3
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I had a small low spot in front of my AC on my 2251. I never did anything about it because no water was coming in and there was no easy fix. In order to lift the roof, the AC would have to come off, which is a major job that I didn't want to do. Also, that trailer had an aluminum roof. Make sure that any seams in the area (roof vents, etc) are sealed really well so if water collects, you won't have water entering.

Jon
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:46 PM   #4
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Hi folks

Just a heads up. If you are going up on your rubber roof that does not have the walk on option, you can come through.

This is what I do.

I have an old canvas I sling it out on the roof over the top of the rubber. It is an anti abrasion matt, and then I have some about 24 to 30 inches wide by 4 feet long pieces of either 3/4” or 1/2" plywood. Place the plywood over top of the canvas on the 16" center rafters so you spread out the weight and do not pressure the rubber membrane. The membrane can rub a crease or crack fast, so I do the canvas deal. The plastic tarps would work too, anything to take the wood abrasion away.

HappyTrails, about how deep is your impression from the tops of the rafters down? 1/2" or more like 1 plus inches?

I don not think there is much of any type of thin sort of veneer board up there at all. I believe it is just the heavy rubber backing with the pure white thin EPDM membrane layed over the rafters. If you look at the factory pics



There is nothing above the insulation. Maybe someone who was at the factory can clear this up. I had to change may vents due to a bad batch of quickly rusting vents. Replaced under warranty. They recieved in a bad batch of vents that where not zinced properly and they rusted in less than a year. When I took mine off I could see the membrane was just placed over mine rafters at the vent edges. Boy that waterproofing tape they use is really something to get off... Once sealed, nothing is sneaking through it.

You could get a sag between 2 rafters. I have slight sag by the bath vent near the shower roof cap. The cap is up high, the vent slightly lower and the sag next to it. And yes water does collect in tha one sag. Mine is about approx 1/4" down.

I always tip my tongue down when stored outside to let the water run off. It helps I "think" on the morning due and mold around here. The wet moisture runs off faster by gravity than just having to evaporate off when level. I can see it running out the gutters


Hope this helps

John
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Old 02-01-2007, 05:27 AM   #5
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The roof membrane "IS" glued to what appears to be 1/4" plywood, and then the one piece unit is installed on the trailer. Unless you have opted for the full walk-on roof. I think they had also offered a 1/2 trailer walk on roof. Most folks just have to do the tarp, and pieces of pylwood over their rafters, or risk going thru the roof.
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Old 02-01-2007, 06:23 AM   #6
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We specifically asked if we could walk or crawl on the roof of our QUE for maintanence & the dealer said "not without putting a piece of plywood up there first."
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Old 02-01-2007, 07:42 AM   #7
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I use an alternative method to the tarp & plywood approach.

I've taken some 4' plywood and have attached carpet on the bottom. With the carpet on the bottom, I don't have to put a tarp under the plywood.

When I need to get on the roof I put the plywood, with carpet side down (toward the roof). I use 2 4-5' plywood pieces (~36" wide) w/ carpet so I can move around the roof when cleaning it. I've used this method on all the Sunlines we've owned (i.e., 3 over the past 7 years) and have never had a problem.

Just another approach.

But the bottom line is, like everyone else says, if you don't have a walk-on roof, don't walk on it without additional support spanning across the roof rafters.
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Old 02-01-2007, 10:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
The roof membrane "IS" glued to what appears to be 1/4" plywood, and then the one piece unit is installed on the trailer.
John

Kitty, H'mm… I'm not doubting you, but mine does not appear to have that 1/4" plywood you are talking about.

Is this with yours? You have that nice fancy aluminum roof and they may have done that on them due to the metal.

I'll have to check again, when it gets a little warmer out. I can tamp in between the rafters and it bounces up and down like a drum except when I get to a rafter. And I can just about feel the rafter 2" wide.

Is the plywood nailed to the rafters or just laying up there loose and only fastened at the ends? I questioned myself that it was just the thick, about 1/8”padding of some type under the thinner membrane. Boy I would of sure thought I would of felt the ¼” plywood. That is fairly heavy.

Now you have me wondering. See here this 1 pic I had when I changed out my roof vent. I know I had to be carefull around the vent hole as once I went beyond the 2 x 4 frame work of the hole, I could easly fell the roof go down.

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Old 02-02-2007, 11:49 AM   #9
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SUN #144
Happytrails
Roof Indent

Thank you for your help. When we bought the TT my husband installed the Max Air Vents and he said there were footprints on the roof. The dealer said they were up there to install the vents (we installed the vents). When I asked the manager he said this is how Sunlines are built and it is normal. From day one we feel the service has not always been truthful. If they had done the work properly when we asked this summer, it would have been under warranty and we would not be in this situation.

We are praying for Sunline's return.

And yes, my husband knew not to walk on the roof and put down plywood. I'm not sure what else he did.
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:31 PM   #10
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OK, just called my dealer, spoke to service dept to confirm what I saw while on my factory tour. The rubber membrane "IS NOT" just laid on top of the rafters. (First off, it would sag between the rafters whenever it rained or snowed). There is "thin" sheets of wood, like plywood 1/8 or 1/4 inch thick over the rafters and the rubber membrane is applied over top that. These sheet(s) of wood decking may be one piece or several pieces depending on the size of the trailer. BUT< you are not to walk on this type. You need to walk on the rafters, or like others have said, put "strong decking" on the roof so you can walk/kneel on it.

As for my fancy aluminum roof, I'm not sure I'd call it fancy , but I wanted a very, very long lasting, LOW maintenance roof that is why I chose it, plus my fear of heights made it unrealistic that I'd be up there scrubbing a rubber roof. I do have any roof openings to maintain, but that's about it, and I usually get a friend to do that. But, I gotta say when I'm able to see my roof, it sure does shine . Looks brand new after two years. And now its in the rvport unless I'm on the road.
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
OK, just called my dealer, spoke to service dept to confirm what I saw while on my factory tour. The rubber membrane "IS NOT" just laid on top of the rafters. (First off, it would sag between the rafters whenever it rained or snowed). There is "thin" sheets of wood, like plywood 1/8 or 1/4 inch thick over the rafters and the rubber membrane is applied over top that. These sheet(s) of wood decking may be one piece or several pieces depending on the size of the trailer. BUT< you are not to walk on this type. You need to walk on the rafters, or like others have said, put "strong decking" on the roof so you can walk/kneel on it.

Kitty

Thanks for following up. OK I can see this with the 1/8" maybe pushing 3/16” but not the ¼” plywood per say. That fits. It is about the same "feeling" consistency of the walls inside the camper which are 1/8"-3/16” and they are a Luan type board. And Luan board is not as solid feeling as actual plywood. And that 1/8" to 3/16” Luan board could very easily produce the bouncing drum type feeling I felt. As I knew it was something thicker than the thin membrane folded over the vent opening where I could actually see it.

Sorry for getting hung up on the 1/4" as “1/4" plywood” is stiff and solid, NOT for walk on that's for sure, but stiffer/ more solid than I was feeling. Sorry, us engineering types have our hang up’s on numbers and things like that.

Thanks again for finding this out and reporting back.

John
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:48 PM   #12
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Hey John,
Not a problem as far as I'm concerned. We are all here for one reason: to help each other, well maybe 2 reasons, and to share all our experiences with our wonderful Sunlines. When I was at the factory, the "sheets" of roofing were almost exactly what you said "Paneling", except much larger, and they used an adhesive to attach the rubber membrane to it. They appear to be 8'W x about 20 or 24' long, so many units would in fact have the one piece under the rubber membrane. So, I'm guessing I have one sheet of "paneling" under my aluminum roof, and hoping I never really have to know for sure.

I need to do my best at understanding and maintaining the Sunline and F350 because they need to last a long time, so I hope I don't appear to come off as a smart azz. Thank goodness I am pretty comfortable with tools. Ya know the old saying: plumbers have leaky pipes, mechanics drive junk, electricians, etc. Well, I was married to a general contractor for 33 years, so guess who did most of the fix it work at the house
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