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Old 04-06-2011, 05:14 PM   #1
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Replacing the trim that covers screws on storage doors

I need to replace the trim insert that covers the screws on the storage doors. A local RV dealer claims that the original was rubber & can no longer get it as it was a "Sunny" product. He also claims that I cant use the vinyl because it will not bend around the corners. Has anyone used the vinyl & a heat gun to make it flexible enough?
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:48 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matti View Post
I need to replace the trim insert that covers the screws on the storage doors. A local RV dealer claims that the original was rubber & can no longer get it as it was a "Sunny" product. He also claims that I cant use the vinyl because it will not bend around the corners. Has anyone used the vinyl & a heat gun to make it flexible enough?
Yes.

Reflectice Plastic Molding...???

Replacement rubber for doors
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:26 PM   #3
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Matt

Mine in 2004 are vinyl. And they go right around the corner. Use a heat gun, hair dryer or better yet, stick the roll in a bucket of real hot water. Then take it out and use it as you need. When warm the stuff is super plyable. Just do not over heat it with the heat gun. Fan the gun or you will melt it.

You can see the vinyl around this cargo door. I had this entire door and flange out when I redid my slide floor. See the screws in the corners to hold it in. That was direct from Sunline that way as I'm sure your is too.



Good luck and let us know how you make out.

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Old 04-07-2011, 05:44 AM   #4
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John, Thanks for the pic. I see the screws at the ends of the cover strip also. Good ideas all. What kind of screws are used? The self drilling ones or regular sheetmetal screws that need a predrilled hole?

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Old 04-07-2011, 07:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Mine in 2004 are vinyl. And they go right around the corner. Use a heat gun, hair dryer or better yet, stick the roll in a bucket of real hot water. Then take it out and use it as you need. When warm the stuff is super plyable. Just do not over heat it with the heat gun. Fan the gun or you will melt it.
One other tip is not to stretch the material when it is warm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363 View Post
John, Thanks for the pic. I see the screws at the ends of the cover strip also. Good ideas all. What kind of screws are used? The self drilling ones or regular sheetmetal screws that need a predrilled hole?
It the holes are already there when replacing the vinyl trim and the screws are in good shape, re-use them. If they are not present, my preference is to drill a pilot hole regardless of what type of screw used. That way I am assured that the screw is going to go where I want it to be.

You can buy screws that are already painted white to match the trim. My preference is hex head so that I can use a 1/4" socket on a drill-driver to run them in.

Since there is no bi-metal corrosion issue in replacing these particular screws, aluminum screws would be ideally suited for this application. Using aluminum screws pretty much always requires drilling a pilot hole.

One other thought.... If the existing screws are corroded along the threads, I would use one size larger, but the same length. That's provided that there is no rotted wood there.
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:52 AM   #6
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I just went through this last Saturday on the build project.

As stated above, the vinyl will do the job just fine, provided you warm it up. We had better luck with the heat gun than the hot water, but YMMV. In my case, we had two sets of hands - I kept the stuff warm with the heat gun and my brother worked it into the channel. I think the entry door took all of 5 minutes.

As Steve mentioned, it's very important you don't stretch it or it will pull out of the channel within a few weeks (if not a few minutes).

Watch your vinyl strip width. There's two common widths, 3/4" and 1" as I recall. On the project, the cargo doors needed the narrow stuff, but the entry door needed the wider stuff (as did the corner moldings). Your needs will depend on who made the door.

A tip on those corner screws. First, predrill the holes. Then, predrill the door frame and the siding (but NOT the wood below it) with a bit large enough to clear the screw. I have a short stress crack starting in the siding on my 2363, and the start of that crack is (of course) the corner screw on the entry door. The manufacturers don't predrill anything, they just run the things in with an air gun.

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Old 04-07-2011, 11:46 AM   #7
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Yes, I forgot to mention, do not stretch the vinyl when warmed up.... Good catch Steve and Frank. Long thin plastic can have issues with 8 feet long and 100 degree change in temp. Just look at vinyl sideing on ones house... Don't pound those nails in tight...
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Old 04-07-2011, 11:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363 View Post
John, Thanks for the pic. I see the screws at the ends of the cover strip also. Good ideas all. What kind of screws are used? The self drilling ones or regular sheetmetal screws that need a predrilled hole?

jim
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Sunline used the same screws they used to hold the metal flange to the camper. In our campers case they are white headed, steel plated screws. I know they are steel as the rust streaks start showing up. Little by little I keep replacing the exposed screws with stainless. The windows hinges and other parts seem to be the worst. And they are different screws then Sunline used to hold the flanges down as they came from who ever made the windows. I have not yet had any rust on the exposed vinyl but have had heads rust under the vinyl. If the water cannot get out, the corrosion festers faster. Out in the open they air dry quicker and it seems to slow down the eventual death of the screw from rust
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank View Post
... I have a short stress crack starting in the siding on my 2363, and the start of that crack is (of course) the corner screw on the entry door....
Does it look like this?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg door.jpg (26.5 KB, 9 views)
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:05 PM   #10
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Does it look like this?
Gene, if the siding was dirty I'd think you snuck a picture of my door
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:18 AM   #11
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Here's an old post for fixing siding cracks. I would think it's applicable here too as it's the same kind of radius corner crack. Maybe someone who still has a trailer with this repair could comment on its longevity/permanence?

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Old 04-08-2011, 07:58 PM   #12
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Thanks Henry. That picture was from last Spring. I drilled a 1/8" hole at the end and filled it with Liquid Nails which was a bit ugly but the scar reminds me to check it often. I only used Liquid Nails because it was what I had at the moment.

Sorry for getting off topic here.
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File Type: jpg door2.jpg (20.2 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg door3.jpg (26.4 KB, 4 views)
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