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Old 10-11-2017, 11:17 PM   #1
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Replaced LP gas detector now not working properly

We replaced the LP gas detector with a new one and it was working properly at first then after a day or so the green light went off. We were able to turn the light back on by turning off battery power and then turning it back on but after a short time it goes out again and thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks in advance for your help
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:49 PM   #2
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Hi Anne,

That's an odd one. I know they have a power save feature, but this behavior doesn't sound right. Does anything happen if you push the test button when the light is off?
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:22 AM   #3
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Hi,

Can you tell us the model and make of the new LP detector? The original one is no longer available as an exact replacement.

While the green light goes out, does the horn sound? Trying to understand if you are getting false trips and the horn is sounding too or just the green light goes off and no horn sound.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-12-2017, 08:21 PM   #4
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Its an Atwood 36720 and there is no horn sound when the light goes out
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:22 AM   #5
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Hi Anne,

That's the same one I replaced with in one of mine too, good choice of unit.

Am I correct in understanding that you just had the trailer on battery power, not plugged in to 30 amp? If so, let's wait until you resolve your battery issue with the refrigerator until we dive into this more. I'm suspecting the two are related.

If you can plug the trailer in to shore power, even with just a 30 amp to 15 amp adapter, the refrigerator and detector should run ok regardless of battery issues.

I should note that even though these detectors have power saving modes, the trailer will only run for a couple days on battery power. When you aren't using the trailer and it isn't plugged into shore power, you need to disconnect the battery or else it'll go dead pretty quickly. However, it sounds like your older battery has voltage but no amps, and that's probably causing these electrical issues.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:10 AM   #6
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Reading this and thinking of power draws. Check to make sure the gasket heater switch (little black rocker switch) on the refridgerator door frame is switched off. This will drain your battery in no time at all. Don't ask me how I know this. Lol.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j52wf View Post
Reading this and thinking of power draws. Check to make sure the gasket heater switch (little black rocker switch) on the refridgerator door frame is switched off. This will drain your battery in no time at all. Don't ask me how I know this. Lol.
YES!!!! I forgot about that, great point!! That fridge heat strip will kill a battery fast....

To find this little rocker switch, open the freezer door. On the top left of the door gasket area is this little black switch. Make sure it is off.

All 3 of my 2004 campers have that switch. I do not know what model years had it or not.

Thanks

John
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
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All 3 of my 2004 campers have that switch. I do not know what model years had it or not.

Thanks

John
It was sometime in the '90s I think. I don't know exactly, but I think the Americana came out sometime in the early '90s, and I know the faceplate and some parts were black while the rest was tan/gray. I think they went to monotone in 1995 or 6. Prior to that time, six cubic foot refrigerators in Sunlines were quite rare and only in the really long trailers. Something like a 2363 came with a 5 cubic foot/integrated freezer standard, and a TV shelf on top, until 1996 or so.

Both of my current Sunlines have the switch and heater. I know the one in the '97 works because I felt it when it was on last time.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 10-14-2017, 05:10 PM   #9
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John can you tell me if the gasket switch on the fridge is the same as a climate control switch. This is the only switch we see in the freezer. It was on and I turned it off. Should it stay off to save power on the battery? Let me know thanks
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:54 PM   #10
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Anne Marie,

Yes, the climate control is the heat strip that helps evaporate excess water from condensation on humid days.

If you are running on battery power only, that heat strip is a heavy power draw for something that really does not have to be on.

If you are on shore power then it is not a problem. We have not turned ours on since we turned it off in 2003.... we have not found a need for it yet.

Thanks

John
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Old 10-14-2017, 06:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
It was sometime in the '90s I think. I don't know exactly, but I think the Americana came out sometime in the early '90s, and I know the faceplate and some parts were black while the rest was tan/gray. I think they went to monotone in 1995 or 6. Prior to that time, six cubic foot refrigerators in Sunlines were quite rare and only in the really long trailers. Something like a 2363 came with a 5 cubic foot/integrated freezer standard, and a TV shelf on top, until 1996 or so.

Both of my current Sunlines have the switch and heater. I know the one in the '97 works because I felt it when it was on last time.
Thanks Jon. Good to know. Did not realize it was added that long ago

Thanks

John
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Old 10-14-2017, 07:42 PM   #12
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Great thank so much!
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:04 PM   #13
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Thanks Jon. Good to know. Did not realize it was added that long ago

Thanks

John
I was just having a conversation with my dad about this at dinner tonight. I'm like, this is probably why you only got like 12 hours on one 12V battery boondocking back in the late '90s...we never knew about the switch then!
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 10-16-2017, 04:05 PM   #14
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If the fridge is off does it turn the heat strip off too?
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Old 10-16-2017, 04:26 PM   #15
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I think it does, but not really sure.
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Old 10-16-2017, 11:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
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If the fridge is off does it turn the heat strip off too?
I have never tested to have the heat strip turned on, and then turn off the fridge and see if the power drops off and it turned off the heat strip.

However, it for sure make sense to have the heat strip go off when the fridge is turned off if the climate control was switched on. There is no need to run the heat strip with the fridge off.

I do know, that when the climate control rocker switch is off, and the fridge is on, there is not a high current draw from the fridge. That I measured. The fridge really does not use a lot of DC power. The gas solenoid is very small and the control board does not use much to run it. On battery and running on gas, the fridge can go a good long time. It is a good boondocking setup.

Hope this helps

John
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