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Old 10-11-2014, 05:21 AM   #1
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Lightbulb Replace City Inlet Water Value

I have your "typical" (aka cheap) City Water Inlet valve. The first one I replaced had a check value failure now this one, the outside lip to that screws the hose has failed/corroded so that now I have to screw 25ft of hose onto the valve! Not to mention the brass elbow does not screw tightly unless I REALLY work at it.

So in my search for a better valve I ran across two options.

One by a company called "Kwiklink"
The valve is all stainless steel

  • Serviceable Stainless Steel Check-Valves with High-volume flow.
  • Fixtures come with Stainless Steel Hardware.

    So the check valve should be durable and the outside lip should not corrode

    I think the 3" will work since the "typical" one I have is
    3" outside dia. although I would need to drill and fill 3 new holes

    They also make a "Kwik Connector"
    Make connecting to water supplies quick, easy and leak-free.

And another from "Anderson Brass"
When I called this company he told me the design has changed somewhat ans wasn't exactly like the diagram shown on the web site anymore. These do not come with a back plate.

They also make a fresh water drain valve which is another item on my replace list.

I think I would order the one from Kwiklink as it comes with a plate.

Has anyone used these?

What about the Kwik Connector?



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Old 10-13-2014, 10:26 PM   #2
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:59 PM   #3
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Joan,

I have not seen the stainless brand before. It does look rugged.

Mine is a B & B brand and the outside is brass, the check is plastic inside. And if you burp it under pressure the O ring comes flying off. I did that twice no less.... And made a post of it.
Fresh Water Inlet Valve Repair

The Anderson Brass once looks similar to the brass one I have, just it has a metal seal ring verses the plastic.

The quick connector, there are pros and cons to them. The pro is they are quick. The cons are the O ring can get a nick in it and then it leaks. And you are stuck trying to find the right O ring. While not impossible, they are not as easy to find in a campground as a standard water hose rubber washer. I use these quick connects on hoses but I would be more cautious to use it as part of the side of the camper. That is just my opinion I know they work, but that can be finicky too. We mostly use on board tanks for fresh water 98% of the time so I have not had to deal too much with the city water inlet. I do know on mine I have to give it a very gentle tighten with water pump pliers to not egg shape it or rasp the outside and seal it up.

I like the hex of the stainless one. More substantial then the thinner brass ones.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:11 AM   #4
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Hi John,

I ordered the 3Ē City Water Inlet Fixture so I will let you know how it works out.

I will have to drill some new holes and I am wondering what you would suggest to plug up the holes from the existing water inlet?



Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Joan,

I have not seen the stainless brand before. It does look rugged.

Mine is a B & B brand and the outside is brass, the check is plastic inside. And if you burp it under pressure the O ring comes flying off. I did that twice no less.... And made a post of it.
Fresh Water Inlet Valve Repair

The Anderson Brass once looks similar to the brass one I have, just it has a metal seal ring verses the plastic.

The quick connector, there are pros and cons to them. The pro is they are quick. The cons are the O ring can get a nick in it and then it leaks. And you are stuck trying to find the right O ring. While not impossible, they are not as easy to find in a campground as a standard water hose rubber washer. I use these quick connects on hoses but I would be more cautious to use it as part of the side of the camper. That is just my opinion I know they work, but that can be finicky too. We mostly use on board tanks for fresh water 98% of the time so I have not had to deal too much with the city water inlet. I do know on mine I have to give it a very gentle tighten with water pump pliers to not egg shape it or rasp the outside and seal it up.

I like the hex of the stainless one. More substantial then the thinner brass ones.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo View Post

I will have to drill some new holes and I am wondering what you would suggest to plug up the holes from the existing water inlet?
Ideally the new flange will cover over the old holes. Use Butyl sealing tape and line the entire back for the new 3" flange and stick/screw on.

If by chance there is a screw hole outside the 3" flange there are a few options.

1. Using Dicro non leveling caulk, seal it up. (hole is small for this)

2. Use a stainless screw and Dicor seal the screw and screw in hole.

3. Use a small patch of Eternabond over the hole and then non leveling Dicro seal and soapy water finger wipe the exposed gray sealant edge of the E bond.

The point is, you have to use a water tight sealant of something.

I caution to not use silicone caulk. It will not hold up long term and once the metal is stuck with it, not much else will stick later when you have to redo it.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:10 PM   #6
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Got the city inlet valve and its definitively substantial!

Got some Butyl tape

The flange is porcelin or ceramic hope. Seems to make it would make it more likely to break? Certainly more than plastic but maybe not much of a concern.

Will report back on it when I get to Texas

Thanks John!



Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Ideally the new flange will cover over the old holes. Use Butyl sealing tape and line the entire back for the new 3" flange and stick/screw on.

If by chance there is a screw hole outside the 3" flange there are a few options.

1. Using Dicro non leveling caulk, seal it up. (hole is small for this)

2. Use a stainless screw and Dicor seal the screw and screw in hole.

3. Use a small patch of Eternabond over the hole and then non leveling Dicro seal and soapy water finger wipe the exposed gray sealant edge of the E bond.

The point is, you have to use a water tight sealant of something.

I caution to not use silicone caulk. It will not hold up long term and once the metal is stuck with it, not much else will stick later when you have to redo it.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo View Post
Got the city inlet valve and its definitively substantial!

The flange is porcelin or ceramic hope. Seems to make it would make it more likely to break? Certainly more than plastic but maybe not much of a concern.
I "think" what you are seeing is this "Powder-coated aircraft quality aluminum plates" from here City Water Inlet - 3 in., RVH2O - KwikLink

If that is a powder coated aluminum, it is a hard coating on aluminum metal. It might look or feel like a ceramic. Using porcelain or ceramic in this application would be really odd.

Let us know how it works out. I may look into one as well.

John
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