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Old 01-18-2010, 09:53 AM   #1
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Protect All Fiberglass oxidation remover/color restorer

Well, my laundry is all washed & hung up to dry, so now since it's a nice warm 48 degrees, I'm heading out to test the protect all product mentioned above. The fiberglass cap on the rig is oxidized and I had red & green "gel letters" saying "Seasons Greetings" on the front cap. Well, I have removed the gel letters, BUT the cap still says Seasons Greeting. SO, no more gel letters except maybe on the glass windows. Now, out to see "IF" this stuff will work. OH, yeah, big challenge as I "think" I will need to use a ""LADDER"".

Wish me luck,
Kitty
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:53 PM   #2
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I have a first time unopened bottle ready to go so am hoping it works as advertised too--post back how it went. The fiberglass noses seem to be especially susceptible to oxidation. I first noticed it during waxing that the upper curve, which is in direct sunlight, felt rough and didn't polish up nice. Two coats of wax made a big difference, but the nose never looked as good as the sides. So I'm going to work on it this spring too.

My brother, who has a Titanium with similar nose oxidation, swears by this stuff as a preventative measure:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...otect-all/1593

and I'm going to pick some up next time in CW.

Henry
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:30 PM   #3
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Not to knock Protect All, as is seems all UV protectors do this to a degree. I had been using 303 since the beginning of my TT days. In time a light yellow tint appears in the plastic. When you hit it with Awesome, it runs yellow streaks and then the plastic looks white again. Awesome strips off the 303 so I put more on. And in time the same yellow comes back to again get an Awesome wash off and the cycle continues…..

Well when I got the T310 I said let me try the Protect All. The T310 has not had TLC from day one from the prior owner like my T2499 does. And as such everything did look white on the plastic. Some parts where brittle as can be.... but white. So I tried the ProtectAll on them. Well after about 3 days, my rock guard and doors tinted and it will not come out. The cargo panels are different material, not tinet, but the rock guard and doors will never be as white as my T2499.

So I stopped using the ProtectAll since. It may be that the plastic was never treated and when the ProtectAll reached it, it was like a sponge and sucked it in deep. I do not know that 303 may not have done the same thing, but just passing this along.

I did find Gel Gloss brand RV cleaner this year. There is plain Gel Gloss and them Gel Gloss RV. I was trying it on my decal strips on the T310 trying to bring them back to life. It has more cleaner in it plus UV and gloss. It did not do any of the yellowing that I could see as I tried some on the doors.

Good luck

John
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:40 PM   #4
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I've never bought the base Protect All product so didn't realize it was just a UV blocker. I've also used 303 for years and see no reason to switch. I'll have to check with my brother if he thinks Protect All is different/better. Thanks for the heads up.

Henry
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:14 PM   #5
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The Protect-All that I'm referring to is the one for oxidation removal
http://www.protectall.com/cat-Fiberg...Remover-6.aspx , not the one to "Protect" our wonderful Sunlines. That protection will be handled by the "303" The front fiberglass cap is oxidized due to the fact that it sat for over 3 years on a stealers lot, so I need to remove the oxidation first, then some good waxing . OH, Gary, hey sweetie, can you help me, I started to do the front cap and well, my arms are really tired & sore. Right there, that's where you need to start I'll go get you a glass of ice tea.


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Old 01-21-2010, 03:56 PM   #6
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H'mm Sounds like another power tool is in need. A buffer.... There are a lot of square inches on that coach.... I know, the T310 is long enough....
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Old 01-21-2010, 04:07 PM   #7
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I know John, I was wondering which brand/model of buffer "Gary" would prefer :P :P :P
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Old 01-21-2010, 04:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
I know John, I was wondering which brand/model of buffer "Gary" would prefer :P :P :P
One that can handle Kitty's elbow grease!
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
I know John, I was wondering which brand/model of buffer "Gary" would prefer :P :P :P
Your best bet would probably be one of the better dual-action machines, like the Porter Cable or even better, the new one Meguiar's sells. They run in and around the $100-150 range, and you will then need to invest a few bucks in pads to use with it. The plus side is they do a very good job, are not difficult to use, easy to learn, and you can use them on the trucks as well! The down side is they will not remove heavier imperfections, because they are "gentler" by design.

A rotary polisher will do the job much quicker, but you need an operator who knows what they are doing - it is not difficult at all to do serious damage with a rotary in the wrong hands. A quality rotary isn't cheap either.

I own two rotaries and a dual action.. I'm trying really hard to NOT buy a filon-sided coach, because I already have enough junk to polish!

- Frank
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Old 04-19-2010, 06:23 PM   #10
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Fiberglass Oxidation Restoration

I finally got around to using Protect All Fiberglass Oxidation Remover & Color Restorer (FORCR). Most SOC members may find my experience interesting because, at the very least, it applies to the fiberglass doors and window awnings used on most of our Sunlines. Protect All makes at least a dozen products and I want to point out again that FORCR is not the product that JohnB found less than satisfactory.

When I first started RVing and found half a dozen manufacturers telling me that everything on my RV would oxidize from the roof down to the tires and in between, I was somewhat skeptical--likely because they each sold various bottles of stuff that would not only prevent all these ills, they would cure them too. From my experience I can report that FORCR does indeed work as advertised on moderately oxidized fiberglass.

First, it's important to note that there is no difference between Filon™, which is a brand, and gelcoat. The term gelcoat is often inappropriately used to designate a higher quality fiberglass than Filon™. This misconception is likely due to the fact that fiberglass boats are not made the same way as Filon™ and do use more gelcoat and are often a higher quality. Filon™ makes 4 different grades of product and presumably the higher end of its line is what is used in more expensive 5ers and Class A's. Full body paint merely adds to the quality of the already high grade Filon™, protects it against oxidation and makes washing and waxing the same as on a car. A higher quality gelcoat and/or full body paint is an ideal upgrade because Filon™ contains microscopic pores that trap dirt and wax buildup.

If you're interested in some of the more technical details:

the difference between boat and RV fiberglass is a very good reference that details the differences as well as discusses the chemical differences between gelcoats and automotive paint and why paint is better.

ok, now they're flogging their product.

the best description of Filon™ and how to maintain its looks.

different degrees of oxidation and possible solutions good article and not an ad.

The early to, at most, moderate oxidation exhibited by our trailer is a dull rough surface with a chalky look and feel. The very earliest oxidation is seen only in the right light by sighting closely across the surface. It is a speckled coating that will not wash or wax off. This oxidation could show in 12 months or less. Our 2499 was built in January, 2005 and sat on the dealer's lot until we bought it "new" in September 2006. It has always been outside uncovered, but waxed twice a year. I was targeting two specific areas of oxidation. The upper part of the nose, above the clearance lights, catches the sun like a solar panel and is significantly more oxidized than the rest of the nose. (I think there's a reason better manufacturers have started using ABS shells on the front and rear of their RVs.) In addition the nose had 2 dealer "WOW what a sale" type stickers that left an annoying ghost or shadow of better preserved fiberglass behind. Even more annoying was the now out of business dealer's sticker on the back--large black letters of name and phone number that could be read at 500 ft. and also left a ghost after I removed them on a warm sunny day. Four years of major waxing did not make a dent in this ghost.

I applied FORCR on a sunny 60's day. There was no problem applying FORCR in direct sun, but I did small sections and wiped it off as soon as it got a light haze rather than leaving it dry to a powder. It goes on and buffs up just like wax, but contains more abrasive material and is not recommended for most painted surfaces. FORCR also contains a wax or sealer and is a true one step process as it makes a very smooth and shiny surface that feels as good as any wax (mostly Nu Finish) I've used.

The good news is that it virtually eliminated all the sticker ghosting on the nose and the rear panel with only one application where 4 years of waxing had failed. I was very impressed. Both panels are now noticeably more glossy and, perhaps because of that, appear whiter than before. The original speckled appearance is completely gone. The bad news is that two applications did not completely cure the nose section above the clearance lights, although it is significantly better--I would say even acceptable for its age. Some of the oxidation was obviously removed as the application cloth got white, and I switched to a clean cloth for the second application, but the surface is a little streaky in appearance. I used very little FORCR and so intend to apply several more coats over the next couple of months with the hope of getting a better result here too.

Curiously, the sides of the 2499 have no noticeable oxidation. I wonder if Sunline used one of the better grades of Filon™ and less direct sunlight has preserved these areas. I still intend to apply FORCR to the entire trailer the next time I use it. I also FORCR'd the entry doors. For some reason the fiberglass here never seems to be the same as the rest of the trailer. I've noticed this with other brands too. It may be just because it's a different batch--Sunline likely purchased prefab doors from Philips and rolls of Filon™ for the sides from Kemlite. In any case, the doors can take on a yellowish tinge and I treated them more as a preventive measure.

FORCR pretty much exhausts the DIY treatment for fiberglass oxidation so it's best to get on top of this problem early. More drastic oxidation gets expensive and technical as wet sanding with various grits and finally full body paint is the treatment.

Henry
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:58 PM   #11
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Henry

WOW, great write up! Thanks. I see I have more reading to do now....

Thanks

John
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryj View Post
The early to, at most, moderate oxidation exhibited by our trailer is a dull rough surface with a chalky look and feel. The very earliest oxidation is seen only in the right light by sighting closely across the surface. It is a speckled coating that will not wash or wax off. This oxidation could show in 12 months or less. Our 2499 was built in January, 2005 and sat on the dealer's lot until we bought it "new" in September 2006. It has always been outside uncovered, but waxed twice a year. I was targeting two specific areas of oxidation. The upper part of the nose, above the clearance lights, catches the sun like a solar panel and is significantly more oxidized than the rest of the nose. (I think there's a reason better manufacturers have started using ABS shells on the front and rear of their RVs.) In addition the nose had 2 dealer "WOW what a sale" type stickers that left an annoying ghost or shadow of better preserved fiberglass behind. Even more annoying was the now out of business dealer's sticker on the back--large black letters of name and phone number that could be read at 500 ft. and also left a ghost after I removed them on a warm sunny day. Four years of major waxing did not make a dent in this ghost.

Henry
A followup to my first use of Protect-All Fiberglass Oxidation Remover and Color Restorer...

I confess I just finished my spring cleanup--we had 17 days of rain in May and I didn't even get the garden planted until yesterday. I'm not quite as impressed with FORCR as I was last year. After cleanup, the nose and tail of the trailer had the same sticker ghosting that had me trying FORCR in the first place. It was as if nothing had changed--very shiny fiberglass under the sticker and dull fiberglass around it. I applied FORCR anew with much polishing around the sticker locations and--just like last year--the ghosts disappeared again.

In conclusion, FORCR does not remove nearly as much oxidation as it appears to on initial application. I am still happy with the appearance--a very shiny smooth surface--but expect to see the ghosts again next spring and that this will be an annual ritual. I guess it's best not to expect miracles from anything that comes in a bottle and has RV on it. To conserve a dwindling supply of FORCR, I used my standby NuFinish wax on the trailer sides. They were never oxidized and are just as shiny with the wax as the nose and tail are with FORCR. However, NuFinish never did polish up the nose and tail to the same extent as FORCR and for that reason I will continue to use FORCR. I just didn't expect to have to use it every single year.

Henry
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