Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Technical Forums > Repairs and Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-26-2011, 12:39 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Ron & Alice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 218
SUN #953
Ron & Alice
Unhappy Problem with Slideout

Hi everybody,
We are having our first problem with our Sunline after 1 year.

Everytime we push the Slide out, it has to lift a little bit and then goes straight out. Now...recently the front edge on the right side catches on the wall panel above, and is pulling that away from the wall. (inside the trailer, not outside) It causes more damage everytime we push the slide out.

Ron crawled underneath, cleaned everything up, greased & oiled whatever, but it is still doing it. We are hoping to have an RV repairman come take a look at it, but I thought I would also try here.

Any ideas or suggestions??

Thanks,
Alice
__________________

__________________
LIVING LIFE TO IT'S FULLEST IN...
2004 T264SR
2002 Chev Silverado
Ron & Alice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2011, 04:41 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ontario
Posts: 503
SUN #43
Trailblazer is an unknown quantity at this point
This is a similar problem I had with my slide back in the spring. Basically the slide was lifting early and crashing into the header and pulling the wall panel away from the wall. Here is the link to my Slide problem.

In my case the problem was a result of the slide floor being replaced and the chamfer not being added to the floor resulting in the slide room lifting up early. In my case I put a Chamfer on the top of the slide and it no longer catches the wall board.

In your case if you haven't had the slide room floor replaced, I would suspect that something has fallen into the recess the slide floor drops into on the floor causing the slide room having to lift sooner resulting in the top of the slide crashing into the header and pulling the wallboard away from the wall.

Hope this helps
__________________

__________________
2018 GMC Denali 3500HD Dually
2018 Grand Design 384GK
Formerly,
2003 F311SR
2005 T-2753
Trailblazer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2011, 04:59 PM   #3
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron & Alice View Post

Everytime we push the Slide out, it has to lift a little bit and then goes straight out. Now...recently the front edge on the right side catches on the wall panel above, and is pulling that away from the wall. (inside the trailer, not outside) It causes more damage everytime we push the slide out.

Any ideas or suggestions??
Thanks,
Alice
Hi Alice

I will see if I can help as your year slide and mine are built the same way. The 2005 and newer models works similar but there was some design changes in the floor and the trough on the floor of the camper.

Is there any chance you can post a picture of the damage so we can see what you are describing?

The mechanical action you are describing of first "lift" and then "straight out" is not the normal action. Now it may be doing it.... but.

Not knowing exactly from your words where the damage is I thought I read that the damage is occurring in the very 1st inch or so of travel of the slide moving "out" and is some how ripping the wall board. Is this correct?

The normal operation when the button is pushed for "out" is the slide actually drops down, meaning the maple wood face that you see in the middle of the camper as the slide is sticking 1/2 way in the camper. The slide drops down then it continues out on a slight down hill angle until it reaches close to full out then the top flange touches the top of the wall, makes a seal and the bottom keeps moving until the bottom seals up. The slight down hill angle may not be easily seen by eye unless you go under the camper and see the tracks mounted on an angle. It may appear inside the camper as going straight out. But what has me stumped is how you can see the slide go “up” when it first starts going “out”

I cannot figure out how in the 1st 1 or 2 inches of travel when extending "out" there is anything that touches the "inside" wall board. Now there are many issues with the wall board when the slide first starts coming "in" but I can't figure out how you scrubbed the wall board on the way out.

See here on this one picture. Here the slide is 3/4 of the way out already but there is not anything that touches the wall board on the way out until you get close to full out. The black rubber seal is touching the whole time while traveling out.


Here is the transit bars installed you can see some more the top of the slide not touching anything but the black rubber seal




OK what did I misunderstand from your description? Again need pics on this one.

Hope this helps

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2011, 05:01 PM   #4
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailblazer View Post
This is a similar problem I had with my slide back in the spring. Basically the slide was lifting early and crashing into the header and pulling the wall panel away from the wall. Here is the link to my Slide problem.

In my case the problem was a result of the slide floor being replaced and the chamfer not being added to the floor resulting in the slide room lifting up early. In my case I put a Chamfer on the top of the slide and it no longer catches the wall board.

In your case if you haven't had the slide room floor replaced, I would suspect that something has fallen into the recess the slide floor drops into on the floor causing the slide room having to lift sooner resulting in the top of the slide crashing into the header and pulling the wallboard away from the wall.

Hope this helps
Bill, Alice stated when the slide goes "out". Your issue was when the slide came "in"

Did I miss read it?
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2011, 05:26 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ontario
Posts: 503
SUN #43
Trailblazer is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Bill, Alice stated when the slide goes "out". Your issue was when the slide came "in"

Did I miss read it?
Oops. I missed that when I first read it. I was thinking the problem was when retracting the slide not extending it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Is there any chance you can post a picture of the damage so we can see what you are describing?


Agreed, I think we definitely need pictures.
__________________
2018 GMC Denali 3500HD Dually
2018 Grand Design 384GK
Formerly,
2003 F311SR
2005 T-2753
Trailblazer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2011, 06:30 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Ron & Alice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 218
SUN #953
Ron & Alice
OK guys, I know, I know, I got it bass-ackwards, lol. It is when we are pulling the slide IN (not out) that this occurs.

You might be able to see in this photo the damage that it is doing to the wall. As you said, John - it is only the first couple of inches that it rides up and pulls the wallboard away, getting worse. (Ignore the 2 velcro strips, we took down a photo).

__________________
LIVING LIFE TO IT'S FULLEST IN...
2004 T264SR
2002 Chev Silverado
Ron & Alice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2011, 08:31 PM   #7
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
OK Alice, now we got it. Well do a switch-a-roo….LOL

Yes, damage on the way “in” can occur to the paneling that looks just like in your picture. This is similar to what Trailblazer had. The difference may be on how you ended up with it….

Please tell us more about how this all started. Did it just show up by itself? Did someone adjust the slide and then it start happening a while later?

The issue is this:

On your vintage slide there is a metal trough embed in the floor of the camper. Looks like this. See here:






That metal trough acts like a cam. When the slide is all the way “out” or extended the slide floor is laying flush down in the trough and the carpet flap covers over the metal and the small gap. See here I have the carpet lifted up


And see here outside the camper looking up at the slide by the edge of the camper.
Here is the slide floor all the way out and laying flat down.


And now the action that occurs when the slide just starts to come in. This pic is of about 1/2 to 1” of travel in. The slide immediately jumps “up”


Now on the inside of the camper, see here. The metal trough has a flat surface to it before the cam or the bump so to speak




When the slide come “in” the first thing it must do is travel straight in the camper about 3/4 to 1” before it reaches the cam (bump). This action allows the slide to retract out of the black inside slide seals and get the aluminum angle strip up on top of the slide out away from the wall pocket. This has to happen or else the aluminum angle will crash into the paneling when the slide progresses in the retracting travel.

As soon as the slide reaches the cam (bump) it starts lifting really fast. This gets the slide floor up off the carpet so it does not drag.

See this piece of sliver aluminum angle, that is the piece that I believe is crashing into the paneling.


That I believe is the problem, your slide timing is out of whack and the lift action is happening too quickly before the slide is retracted out of the wall pocket thus crashing the aluminum angle into the paneling.

Now, OK how did this happen and what could be wrong? Well we need some info from you and I may be able to predict what may have happened to create the timing issue. Here are some questions.

  • Like Bill said, did anyone just replace your slide floor?
  • Did anyone adjust the slide mechanism outside?
  • Did anyone do anything with the slide?
  • Is the damage to the paneling only on one end, front or rear of slide or is the damage the entire length of the slide?
  • Anything else you know that has been different with the slide over the last few weeks or months?

If Ron holds the carpet flap up on the end, put a weight of something on it to hold it back, then he looks at the metal trough for the flat area and the cam, (bump) area. Then in quick motions with the “in” slide button, bump the button to just tweak the slide in. Watch as the slide floor comes real close to the cam. As it does, stop and go look up top of the slide at the silver angle iron if you can see it. It is most likely ready to crash the paneling. Look on both ends. You can then tell if the slide is coming in even. Meaning the front and rear of the slide the wall gap now should be about equal if you measure it in the same place on both ends.

And then take a picture of the slide floor at the cam and then up top where the angle iron is about to crash the paneling.

Once I have a little more to go on I can create a few suggestions on how you got into this and then how to get out of it.

Hope this helps
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 09:32 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Ron & Alice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 218
SUN #953
Ron & Alice
Hi again John,
The RV repairman is here now. He looked at everything and says that it is not the aluminum piece that is sticking, it is the fascia (sp?) board that is jamming and pulling the wall board away.

(BTW, I can't figure out how to post after my last photo, lol. Last photo is only showing damage to wall, altho' it is worse than it looks.

Photos:
Damage to head board-





the guys holding the fascia down (putting all their weight on it in order to keep it from popping up).




Problem piece that is jamming under the wallboard:


__________________
LIVING LIFE TO IT'S FULLEST IN...
2004 T264SR
2002 Chev Silverado
Ron & Alice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 09:36 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Ron & Alice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 218
SUN #953
Ron & Alice
sorry John, as I said, I couldn't figure out how to write after I posted my last photo, so I continue:
No, we haven't had any work done to the trailer at all. It has been working just fine for the past year that we have had it. Now, it only jams on the right front side, the left side is fine so far (looking at it). No adjustments, no nothing.
But it has been steadily getting worse over the past month or so, that is why we are having it looked at. It now jams from the right (worse) to the center (bad).
__________________
LIVING LIFE TO IT'S FULLEST IN...
2004 T264SR
2002 Chev Silverado
Ron & Alice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 11:28 AM   #10
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron & Alice View Post


the guys holding the fascia down (putting all their weight on it in order to keep it from popping up).



Alice

Is this picture with the slide fully "out" or is it bumped in just a little bit? I'm thinking it must be just bumped in so he can puch that strip down
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 11:45 AM   #11
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Look at this picture of mine. On both the front and rear wall ends there is a white wood strip the full length of the wall. About ~ 3/16" thick. The slide face actaully touches this wood strip when the slide is all the way out. I cannot tell from your pics if you have them


Here is the top slide face touching it, the slide is not yet fully out to even up the slide.


Does your camper have that full wall length strip on both ends of the slide? Those strips I belive are there so the top facisia never goes into the wall pocket like your seems to be.

Before I head down a path here, confirm if yours has those full length wall strips. If yours never came with them I would not put them on just yet as if you do it wil affect the compression of the black seal bulb. There is a relationship between the anlge iron that touches the seals and where the facisa board touches the wall. Sunline may have compensated for the lack of strip in the angle mounting

I'll be back later tonight. Please let us know what the guy finds/fixes

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 02:22 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ontario
Posts: 503
SUN #43
Trailblazer is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron & Alice View Post
Hi again John,
The RV repairman is here now. He looked at everything and says that it is not the aluminum piece that is sticking, it is the fascia (sp?) board that is jamming and pulling the wall board away.



the guys holding the fascia down (putting all their weight on it in order to keep it from popping up).




Problem piece that is jamming under the wallboard:

Since no adjustments or changes have been made to your slide then we have to figure out why this has just started to happen. Looking at your photo and description you said the part being held down by the tech is what is catching on the wall panel. Here are my thoughts and my experience with my slide:

1. When you look at the photo showing the one end of the slide, it appear the he is holding down has raised up. I would check the opposite end of the slide and see if it also looks raised up. If not then I would try do one of two things. First I would try fastening it back down so that it is tight and no part of it is raised up. If that doesn't solve the problem, I would remove it since it is only about 1/8 inch thick and really from what I can tell it look more of a decorative piece to hide the raw wood underit. I did not have this piece on my slide room. I would next put a Chamfer along the entire inside edge of where this piece exists. This will give added clearance between the slide and the wall panel when the slide starts to raise up when it is being retracted. Finally I would look at the wall panel on top of the slide opening. In my case my panel was extended down about 1/16 of an inch below the the header. I also trimmed this piece flush with the header to provide added clearance.

2. Another area to check if the fascia is not the problem is the height adjsutment on the slide room. Since it is only hitting on one side of the slide room and not the other, I would suspect the bolts holding the slide height adjustment may of come loose allowing the slide to drop slightly at one end which would cause the opposite end to be slightly higher. This would cause the slide to catch on the header as you retract. I don't have a picture of this bracket but I found one on John's site so I hope he doesn't have mind me linking to it here.:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...coinstall4.jpg

If you look to the right of the tire, you will see the bracket I am referring too. I would check the one at the opposite end of the slide room where you are having a problem to see if you can tell the room has shifted down or not.

Hopefully you are able to follow what I have tried to explain here. If not I am sure John should be able to explain it better.

I am also certain John will be along soon with some other ideas. What I decribed in item #1 above would solve the problem but to get a permanent fix we really need to determine what caused the issue in the first place.

Definitely please let us know if the tech fixes it and if so what he found and what he did to fix it.
__________________
2018 GMC Denali 3500HD Dually
2018 Grand Design 384GK
Formerly,
2003 F311SR
2005 T-2753
Trailblazer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 08:06 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Ron & Alice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 218
SUN #953
Ron & Alice
John B... our slide wall does not have vertical wood strips. When our slide is extended fully out, the top end rests up against the wall with the side walls about one inch inbound (this being the back side of the fascia). The reason the top side rests up against the wall is that there is a one inch wood frame (pressboard) to which the fascia is attached. The top side of this pressboard is finished with a trim similar to the vertical trims on your unit.
Trailblazer... I investigated the adjustable plate(as shown in photo). The forward unit adjustment bolt nut is not snug up to the bracket as is the rear plate. The nut is positioned on the capscrew about an inch below the plate.
Also would you advise me as to how flush the slide-out floor should be in relation to the trailer floor. Our slide-out floor (since we purchased our trailer) has always been positioned (when out) with about 1" rise. In trying to fix our current problem the slide floor is now flush with the trailer floor: perhaps a quarter inch to half inch lower.

Thanks very much for all your input, we certainly appreciate it. I will be working with the Repairman during the next few days trying to fix the problem. Any further advice is much appreciated.

Ron
__________________
LIVING LIFE TO IT'S FULLEST IN...
2004 T264SR
2002 Chev Silverado
Ron & Alice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 08:39 PM   #14
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Well Alice how did it go today? And does your camper have the 2 wall strips I asked about lunch time.

Bill's post helped stimulate the thinking process.

1st, Unless I'm miss reading this, your wood slide face should not be entering the wall cavity. The slide when it extends touches the inside slide seals with the aluminum angle. They seal off and then the wood slide face on the vertical ends touch the wall, create great resistance and then you hear the clunk, clunk, clunk of the slide drive over load clutch and you let your finger off the button.

It appears that some how your front top corner of the slide face went under wall paneling in the wall opening??? That top strip that is tore up is stuck under the wall paneling. When the slide retracts in, the pressure pulls it out of the wall. I do not think you even made it to the lifting action in the trough, just the raw pressure of the top strip being stuck under the wall paneling. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how did that happen?

Bill talked about the rear outside slide rail support slipping down and jacking up the top front corner. Yes this is true if the rear slide rail support dropped the entire slide would pivot and the front top would go up. But if it goes up then it is even harder to ever enter the wall pocket to get that strip under the wall paneling.

On the other hand the opposite may have occurred. The front slide rail may have slid down and the top of the slide is now below the wall opening. With the extend pressure and some wood slide face flexing the top of the slide strip you had the problem with slipped partly under the paneling in the wall opening. Then when the slide is drawn in, it rips the strip off. "Maybe" this is how this came to be.

To check go outside when the slide is out and look for this part. It should be on the underside front of the slide


While this pic is of the rear slide rail the vertical adjusting system is the same. There are slots for vertical adjustment with 2, bolts in the that pinch the sliding parts together. And there is a jack screw under the plate that should of held if was ever adjusted up tight in the 1st place.


Look at the parts. Can you see what we call a witness mark of the parts slipping exposing fresh paint or a different change is rust color.

Now if that checks out, check the rear side too in case something is going on, next would be to close up the slide and then outside the camper look at the gap between the slide flange and the recessed flange on the camper. It is hard to see in this pic but there is a flange gap all the way around the slide, front, top and rear side flange.


That gap between the outer slide flange and the camper wall flange should be fairly even. The top especially should be even along the full length of the slide.

Now if that comes up OK there is one other dreaded possibility. A soggy front slide floor and the slide is dropping when extended as the slide floor has some rot in it up front near the trough area. With the slide all the way out, go feel around pushing up on the black vapor barrier in the front side of the slide near the camper. It needs to be rock solid. You can tell solid from soggy.

Here is soggy, just not in the same spot. My thumb us flexing up the vapor barrier.


If all this checks out, report back. I'm with Bill. You really do not need that strip on the top of the slide, it is there to make it look good if you could ever see up there... removing it I cannot see any harm. BUT we should figure out what shifted too. If not sooner or later something will come from this.

Hope this helps

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 08:45 PM   #15
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron & Alice View Post
John B... our slide wall does not have vertical wood strips. When our slide is extended fully out, the top end rests up against the wall with the side walls about one inch inbound (this being the back side of the fascia). The reason the top side rests up against the wall is that there is a one inch wood frame (pressboard) to which the fascia is attached. The top side of this pressboard is finished with a trim similar to the vertical trims on your unit.
Trailblazer... I investigated the adjustable plate(as shown in photo). The forward unit adjustment bolt nut is not snug up to the bracket as is the rear plate. The nut is positioned on the capscrew about an inch below the plate.
Also would you advise me as to how flush the slide-out floor should be in relation to the trailer floor. Our slide-out floor (since we purchased our trailer) has always been positioned (when out) with about 1" rise. In trying to fix our current problem the slide floor is now flush with the trailer floor: perhaps a quarter inch to half inch lower.

Thanks very much for all your input, we certainly appreciate it. I will be working with the Repairman during the next few days trying to fix the problem. Any further advice is much appreciated.

Ron
Ron

Any chance of pics of what you are talking about?

When the slide is out, If you lift the rug up, the slide floor should be resting even the entire length of the slide on the metal trough.

Do you have an air space in there? and it was 1"??

Is still 1/4" to 1/2" gap in there?

What did he adjust to make it better? If you had a 1" rise in the floor from day 1, your system was not in alignment from the get go.

Can help explain how to adjust but want to make sure I know the problem your seeing 1st.

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 08:57 PM   #16
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Ron

Inside this area the slide floor should be down against the metal trough the full length




And go outside and look to how the slide floor is resting on the camper floor. This should be tight the full length of the slide
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 09:16 PM   #17
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,159
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron & Alice View Post
John B... our slide wall does not have vertical wood strips. When our slide is extended fully out, the top end rests up against the wall with the side walls about one inch inbound (this being the back side of the fascia). The reason the top side rests up against the wall is that there is a one inch wood frame (pressboard) to which the fascia is attached. The top side of this pressboard is finished with a trim similar to the vertical trims on your unit.

Ron
Ron

Looking at this one pic of yours



Your 2004 camper may be made different then my 2004 camper. Mine was built in 0ct 2003. You VIN sticker on the front left of the TT has the month/year of manufacture. I can see the maple ends are different then mine. Yours may be a later made 2004. Made in ealry 2004, like Feb thru April.

Are you saying above that your slide sides actually go inside the wall pocket? If so then this is starting to add up
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 09:20 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Ron & Alice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Brunswick
Posts: 218
SUN #953
Ron & Alice
OMG, you guys are so good, photos & everything. We will check under the slide tomorrow morning and get back to you. BIG thanks.

Ron
__________________
LIVING LIFE TO IT'S FULLEST IN...
2004 T264SR
2002 Chev Silverado
Ron & Alice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 09:52 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ontario
Posts: 503
SUN #43
Trailblazer is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Ron

Looking at this one pic of yours



Your 2004 camper may be made different then my 2004 camper. Mine was built in 0ct 2003. You VIN sticker on the front left of the TT has the month/year of manufacture. I can see the maple ends are different then mine. Yours may be a later made 2004. Made in ealry 2004, like Feb thru April.

Are you saying above that your slide sides actually go inside the wall pocket? If so then this is starting to add up
John, this slide design looks very similar to mine where the press board with the decorative trim on it does go into the wall pocket. The alumimin channel compresses against the slide seal and the maple ends sit flat against the wall.

A fix to this problem is to remove the decorative trim on the press board that goes into the pocket and then with either a file or a router put a 1/4 Chamfer on the edge of the press board that goes into the wall. This will give additional clearance allowing for when the slide room starts to lift up and it will stop the slide from ripping the wall panel off the inside wall. I will try and get a picture of how mine looks and post it after the fix so you can see what I did. However this fix does not address why it has suddenly started doing this.

The big question is why is the slide suddenly starting to catch on the wall panel. I am thinking it has something to do with the adjustment on the bracket that John and I posted pictures of. As John said, look for witness marks (Thanks John, I couldn't think of the name for these marks at the time) on these pieces as this would be evidence the slide adjustment has shifted. Also compare your how your slide floor sits both on the inside and outside compared to how John's slide floor sit in his pictures.

I think we are closing in on why your slide has started to catch on the wall panel.
__________________
2018 GMC Denali 3500HD Dually
2018 Grand Design 384GK
Formerly,
2003 F311SR
2005 T-2753
Trailblazer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2011, 11:00 PM   #20
Moderator
 
Sunline Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5,994
SUN #123
Sunline Fan is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Your 2004 camper may be made different then my 2004 camper. Mine was built in 0ct 2003. You VIN sticker on the front left of the TT has the month/year of manufacture. I can see the maple ends are different then mine. Yours may be a later made 2004. Made in ealry 2004, like Feb thru April.
Theirs is April, 2004, built 52 before your 2499...
__________________

__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
Sunline Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Slideout floor problem that may be of interest Galaxiedriver Sunline Slide Room Travel Trailers 0 08-25-2009 08:47 PM
Replacement slideout Topper fabric Galaxiedriver Repairs and Maintenance 0 08-24-2009 10:17 PM
Convex (or Concave?) floor on slideout anyone? ihsolutions Sunline Community 11 08-02-2009 09:01 AM
Slideout awning 264SRinPA Modifications 3 03-18-2009 07:40 PM
Slideout limit switch? r-n-r Sunline Slide Room Travel Trailers 1 09-13-2006 02:21 PM


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:46 AM.


×