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Old 02-28-2018, 06:05 AM   #1
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Place to buy dexter axles....

I think I’m going through with my plan to replace the axles on my t-1950. To recap (because it is obvious to ask why)... one spindle is slightly bent (main reason) and I get poor tire wear on that position. I have drop axles with a flip and I hate adjusting brakes on a drop (can do it, but I don’t like it and have no feel) and I’d like better clearance you get with the straight between the tires, I’d love self adjusting brakes and I want to do the brakes anyway since they are really soiled with grease in 2 positions.

I have the axles quoted from dexter at 366 a piece. I haven’t called around much yet, just looking for a tip. Looking for Better than retail price with free ship or a good deal. Etrailer wont order custom for shipping and eastern marine will order custom at a savings, but they charge to ship and wouldn’t talk shipping price (those are just the first places I called).

Anything to think about in getting new? The axles are to be ordered as straight with camber in the correct size, ez lube spindles, self adjusting, seats welded to the bottom to go on top of springs. This will further lift the camper (flipped drop axle to straight on top) and that is fine with us and we have room are are still youngish. I’m torn on the ez lube, I may not get them, I’ve had blow through issues even with the proper inner seals (I could also have them and not use them).
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:09 AM   #2
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I agree with ez lube bearings that's more of a boat trailer thing grease on brake lining is not a good thing. Dexter kind of controls the market you are at their mercy. I have to buy kits to redo the plastic bushings in my dexter axles and they do not include the 4 spring bushings the only thing I get is the bushing in the equalizer and new bolts. The HD axle has wet bushing kits mine doesn't so the plastic just wares out. A truck shop maybe able to bend your axle for alignment.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:31 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
I agree with ez lube bearings that's more of a boat trailer thing grease on brake lining is not a good thing. Dexter kind of controls the market you are at their mercy. I have to buy kits to redo the plastic bushings in my dexter axles and they do not include the 4 spring bushings the only thing I get is the bushing in the equalizer and new bolts. The HD axle has wet bushing kits mine doesn't so the plastic just wares out. A truck shop maybe able to bend your axle for alignment.
I thought about getting the axle fixed and once you look at the price for getting it done, plus the hassle, plus new brakes and potential other positive upgrades it makes buying new look ok. They said on the phone and on the actual quote that distributors would do better for price, I thought that was funny.

I went with the bronze bushings and wet bolts, Iím going to check them out for wear this spring. I have 30 k on them, Iíll Report back. I asked dexter and they donít have an expected lifespan specd for the bushings.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:44 AM   #4
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Talked to dexter and the tech I talked to said not to use the ez lube if not submerging, just pack them (same as John said last fall). I think I’ll get the ez lube but not use them.

I’m waiting on quotes from a couple trailer/auto parts places local to me.
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:32 AM   #5
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Dexter does not make wet bushings for mine I'm going to check and see if the bolts are the same as the HD axle because that's were the bushings get the grease from, the fitting is in the bolt I have no problem greasing plastic bushings produces the same results. Now if I can get plastic bushings I can replace the ones in the springs without having to remove the old ones from the equalizer waiting on a call back from Dexter. Just came up with a brain storm drilling the bolts, my neighbor has a lath drill a hole in the bolt head to the depth of half the bushing then half way through the bolt diameter does not need to be more than 1/8"
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Old 02-28-2018, 04:29 PM   #6
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Hi Tod,

Here is one more name to add to your list. Axle Inc. in Elkhart IN. AXLE Inc. - Towable Trailer Axle Specialists

They now carry Dexter too. I bought my Alko axle tubes from them back in 2009. They for sure know axles.... the lady on the phone was rattling off spec's and prices left and right. And she kept saying, is all you need is the axle tubes? We can sell the entire axle at a really low cost compared to putting it together from parts.

I would call them and see what they can do. They were close to the Alko factory, and more than likely not far from Dexter either. In my case, they did not stock the axle tubes, don't know if they do on any size. They take the order, deal with the factory direct and they weld them up to order. It was only 2 weeks and they they shipped them UPS.



You did not mention if your price included springs. Are you doing springs too? The $366 sounds high on a 3,500# axles and possibly no springs.

I looked for the sales slip and it is not in my folder. But is was approx $100 each plus freight for a 6,000# axle tube. To add EZ lube was about $15 an axle. I started asking for 5,200# axle tubes as that was what I had and the lady said it was only like $10 more for the 6,000# tubes so I went for it. Same bearings and brakes between the two sizes just a heavier tube. And that helps from potential bending of a tube. My loads did not need the 6K axle, but I liked the extra duty of it.

The freight was not that, I just cannot recall what it was. Between $20 maybe $30 back then.

If you are buying 2 complete axles, that weight is very much beyond UPS... You are into truck freight. In Jan. this year I bought 3 cases of butyl sealing take from the Edge Adhesives in Elkhart. I could have an entire pallet load delivered to my house for $135. I did not need a pallet load of butyl though... so it was $25 a case or $75 for the 3 cases when I could of had I think about 30 some cases on a pallet...

Home delivery with a lift gate truck usually costs more on truck freight. If you have it shipped to a local freight terminal in your area, that is cheaper if you cannot accept a semi at your house. Then you go pick it up with your truck at the terminal.

On the EZ lube, I bought it but never used it yet on the camper. I hand pack so I know what I have and only was figuring I "might" have to use it when I was out west a long way from home and had mega miles, I could use it if I wanted too.

Bronze bushing and wet bolts and heavy duty thick shackles. Yes, for sure get them. If you grease 2 times a year they will last a really long time. That was what the Dexter engineer told me when I asked. And they have. I had them part last year and there is very little wear. I suspect I can get another 10 years out of them and maybe more. The heavier shackles go along with this. The 1/4" thin ones do wear out/through.

If you are replacing the brake plates, I would go with the self adjusters. Since you are looking at new drums, you should not have a problem with drum run out outside the working tolerance. If you are reusing your old drums, let talk on this.

Another tip, I would do a wire size and pattern upgrade on the brakes. No. 10 awg all the way to each coil, soldered. Do not use the wire in the axle tube. This also includes the ground from the coils right to the 7 wire connection, not a frame ground that corrodes. You will have the coils apart so that is the time. I think we talked on this a little while ago.

A few other tips.

I do not know what you are thinking on a rubber equalizer or shocks. They do not have to come right now if cost is a concern, but they do help reduce the vibration into the camper. You put a lot of miles on cross county. You can get a complete wet bolt and heavy duty shackle kit with a EZ flex. Assuming you are on a Dexter equalizer now. If not, need to talk on fit if it is another brand.

Putting things together, since you are going through this all I would check the axle alignment when you get the new axles. There is excess room you can tweak the settings by the play in the axle seat to the spring pin. With the U bolts loose (snug) you can shift the front axle about 1/8" per side to the tow ball for the thrust angle setting and then parallel the front to the back axle.

See here on how to do this with a tape measure. Make sure you measure your loaded axle heights from the ground and the frame with a loaded camper for spring deflection before setting. TT axle alignment - Details (long with lot's of pics)

Brake wire upgrade. See here Independent Brake Wire Feed Upgrade I have tweaked the method to 2 wire tinned marine cable since then. BenB did it on his camper and we have a roll of the cable to do my flatbed trailer and the T-1950. Same concept, works the same but a better install. Lets talk on that if you are going this way.

Oh and an important one. When you install the axles make sure the wire hole in the axle tube is pointing to the back of the trailer. There is a front and back to the axle tube. The toe angle can be goofed up if they are backwards and if the brakes come on the axle tube, then they can be put on backwards too by accident.

Your install will be a good post. Take pics and consider posting. Hope this helps.

John
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Old 02-28-2018, 04:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
Dexter does not make wet bushings for mine I'm going to check and see if the bolts are the same as the HD axle because that's were the bushings get the grease from, the fitting is in the bolt I have no problem greasing plastic bushings produces the same results. Now if I can get plastic bushings I can replace the ones in the springs without having to remove the old ones from the equalizer waiting on a call back from Dexter. Just came up with a brain storm drilling the bolts, my neighbor has a lath drill a hole in the bolt head to the depth of half the bushing then half way through the bolt diameter does not need to be more than 1/8"
Hi mainah,

Yes, you can drill your own holes. I have done this before. Hand drilled at the time, our little 6" South Bend lathe was not here then.



You can see the cross holes here


I even had to hand drill an axle too. Long story on how Alko missed drilling the center hole. They added the grease fitting, just no grease hole. Slow and steady and keep clearing the chips out.



All done, hard to see


Better done shot


High speed steel bits, sharp, will drill the spring bolts and an axle spindle just fine. Key is sharp bits, lube, keep pulling back to clear the chips out and drill slow.

Thanks

John
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Old 02-28-2018, 05:49 PM   #8
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Thanks John,

I have the EZ flex heavy duty suspension upgrade already and think I have about 30k miles on it, so I’m interested to see the state of the bushings when I tear into it.

I got several quotes today. 350-370 for one complete axle, brakes and drums plus 125-175 freight for two, which puts the total up there. I can do better a la carte, buying separate axles, brakes and hubs. This is party because the pieces are smaller and aren’t freighted and I can get free shipping on all but the axles. Axles alone are about 115, plus shipping (40). Spring seats need welded in that case.

I read your alignment thread earlier today, good stuff in there. Your wear was worse than what I’ve seen and made me feel better about what I have. My tire wear is almost on track with age, tires are 5 years old and still have tread, so by the time age dictates they need replaced, they will be worn out. Makes me think I should not do anything, just get new tires in a year or two.

I’ve been thinking about the brake wiring too, would be nice to do.
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Old 02-28-2018, 06:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post
Thanks John,
I have the EZ flex heavy duty suspension upgrade already and think I have about 30k miles on it, so I’m interested to see the state of the bushings when I tear into it.
Oh OK, did not realize that. Good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post
I got several quotes today. 350-370 for one complete axle, brakes and drums plus 125-175 freight for two, which puts the total up there.
Did that include springs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post
I can do better a la carte, buying separate axles, brakes and hubs. This is party because the pieces are smaller and aren’t freighted and I can get free shipping on all but the axles. Axles alone are about 115, plus shipping (40). Spring seats need welded in that case.
I agree, at $350-$375 you can get this separately cheaper. Eastern Marine is about the lowest I found on the brake plates. They run sales that are unbelievable. Hopefully Axle Inc might be able to help lower that $350 cost.

Quote:
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I read your alignment thread earlier today, good stuff in there. Your wear was worse than what I’ve seen and made me feel better about what I have.
I'm glad I could help with having worse wear.... I for sure learned a lot from that event. Tire wear problems on campers is more common than most think. I must say, I now have no tire wear issues after fixing the underlying issues and glad as I'm on 16" LT tires now. Amazingly if I can align the camper in my own yard, how does the frame builder and the axle builder goof it? I guess I was just the bad lucky one to get the combo of hangers welded on wrong and 2 axles tubes made wrong at the same time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post
My tire wear is almost on track with age, tires are 5 years old and still have tread, so by the time age dictates they need replaced, they will be worn out. Makes me think I should not do anything, just get new tires in a year or two.
If you know the issue is a bent axle tube, there are truck, trailer places that do trailer alignment. They put the trailer on an alignment machine and then pending the problem, move hangers or bend the axle tubes to put it back in alignment. I do not know if they are in your area or not but it is an option. It does not help your ground clearance issues any and if your brakes are gone, well then the cost is only your axle tubes. But again you are after ride height that the new straight axle tubes will help.

OH and on the new ride height, you talked about doing an under to over conversion with a straight axle. A heads up in case you had not thought of it, check if the truck tailgate will hit the hitch when down in this highest position before you move the axle up top. You are in a drop hitch shank setup now. Going straight axle may put you in a very little drop or a little rise. Going top mounted springs and straight axle may put you in a higher rise shank setup to level out the camper. And that "might" have a tailgate hit.

I just lucked out on my T310SR. Between tire changes, hanger changes, equalizers etc. I am now higher than the factory setup and in a hitch rise setup. Yes, Sunline also built the larger slide campers lower too then most of the competitors. If I was going to have a tailgate hit, I would most likely figure out how not to have that. One slip and the gate falling and crashing on the hitch banging up the tailgate, I would not be a happy camper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post
I’ve been thinking about the brake wiring too, would be nice to do.
You will for sure notice this. You will have to lower your gain setting on the controller after doing the upgrade or you will be locking up all the time at slow speeds.

Hope this helps. I know a lot of decisions.

John
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Old 03-01-2018, 01:25 PM   #10
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I'm talking no springs on any quote. I feel like I just can't crack the code on cost this time, but the complete units are freighted (which ups the cost) and then buying individually you loose any whole unit discount.

I have room to go up on the hitch and not hit the tailgate. The hitch mount on a Tundra is really low, even though the truck isn't any lower then the other half tons. It is common to have to come up with a Tundra when others are dropping down with other brands.

I REALLY don't want to make myself more work, and had decided not to do it last night. I never waffle on decisions like this. I usually jump right in. But this morning I got back to thinking, at least I have to change out the brakes given that the lining is saturated with grease. Then looking at the price I was at 30 per brake to do that and a bunch of work (hate those springs in there). Then I was at maybe 8 bolts work and 200 dollars to put on new self adjusting brakes, then hubs, then I might as well get axles. I can't get a decent quote anywhere, so I'm going to try axles from Dexter - have a quote request in (which gets the spring seats welded on since I don't weld) and then order everything else a la carte.
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Old 03-01-2018, 01:56 PM   #11
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I know, decisions decisions. Beat it up in your mind and then go for it.

On the brake springs, I don't know what you are using for brake tools but these 2 tools really help on the springs. I really can't think of not using these... You get spoiled real quick once you have them. One time use and you are sold.

I just found these on Amazon but there is a bunch of them out there and kits too which have more stuff for not a lot more cost.



To get the top 2 springs off and on, you use one of these tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64...ke+spring+tool

To get the 2 shoe retainer springs off on the sides with the blue keeper cap, you use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Compresso...ke+spring+tool

The brake tools I have are KD brand and about 60 years old. I got them from my uncle. Been using them since high school. You will never wear them out... in a private setting.

They also make kits, price is all over. Here are a few of them. The local NAPA or Advance or other auto parts stores has all this too.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-2719...ke+spring+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7848-8-...ing+tool&psc=1

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-01-2018, 02:03 PM   #12
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Does help for sure. Thanks for taking the time to put those up.
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:10 PM   #13
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Just got through dealing with etrailer I can say I was very impressed the fellow I dealt with was top notch and produced the bushings Dexter could not find the entire bill with shipping and parts was $56 equalizer shackles,bolts nuts and a complete set of bushings for the springs etal.He said the bushing were a improved compound the last ones I installed were a good 8 years old and still had some life to them so if I have to do them again I'll be 80 and I'll let someone else do them!
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I know, decisions decisions. Beat it up in your mind and then go for it.

On the brake springs, I don't know what you are using for brake tools but these 2 tools really help on the springs. I really can't think of not using these... You get spoiled real quick once you have them. One time use and you are sold.

I just found these on Amazon but there is a bunch of them out there and kits too which have more stuff for not a lot more cost.



To get the top 2 springs off and on, you use one of these tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64...ke+spring+tool

To get the 2 shoe retainer springs off on the sides with the blue keeper cap, you use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Compresso...ke+spring+tool

The brake tools I have are KD brand and about 60 years old. I got them from my uncle. Been using them since high school. You will never wear them out... in a private setting.

They also make kits, price is all over. Here are a few of them. The local NAPA or Advance or other auto parts stores has all this too.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-2719...ke+spring+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7848-8-...ing+tool&psc=1

Hope this helps

John
Yep pliers and wire cutters are no match for the proper tools unless you like to swear a lot.
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Old 03-07-2018, 11:14 AM   #15
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Ordered axles today from dexter. Including shipping, I was able to get stripped axles with welded seats for less than any of the online retailers or local places. I’ll order brakes and drums online later.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:12 PM   #16
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That's Great!!!

When I bought my EZ Flex and heavy duty shackles I did buy it from Dexter direct as at that time no other online retailer could touch their prices. Even with paying the freight. They were running a special on them.

Good to hear they came through for you. Good to know.

Thanks for reporting back.

John
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