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Old 04-01-2010, 07:20 PM   #1
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Not such a HappyCamper today

After a long day at work I decided to take a few minutes to open up the coach and let her air out, and measure for the new mattress I'm going to order. When I opened the door I noticed a slight musty smell that I had never smelled before. After a lot of searching I found the issue. Well they say a picture is worth a thousand words......



[/img]

And of course it has to be in the rear corner of the coach, under the kitchen sink and cabinets. Looks like the bottom awning bracket pulled away from the wall a little bit, and I failed to notice it. I started the exploration/demo, but had to stop when I ran out of light.
I do have a few questions before I dive into this. How am I going to get the wood back in under the side wall? It goes in a good 2". Also, how should I tackle the rotted 2x4 along the back wall? Should I cut it as far as it's bad, put a new piece in, and splice them together?
Wow this really stinks. We were just talking about how much we were looking forward to getting the coach out, and now I probably have to take out the whole kitchen to fix this. I guess this may be the reason I needed to take a few much deserved days off from work.
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:49 PM   #2
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Well happycampers you certainly have a mess on your hands but here is a link to a camper remodel that might make you feel better I know it did me when I found rot in my little sunline.

http://83coachmenrehab.blogspot.com/

Good luck, if I was closer I would offer you my help.
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:13 PM   #3
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Happy Campers,

Sorry to see you have rot damage. I don't have a clue as to how to repair, maybe JohnB will post--he's replacing part of his slide floor.

You will obviously be busy during your "days off". I sent you a PM regarding the jigsaw puzzles in the Games and Trivia forum, but it looks like you have a real jigsaw on your hands right now.

Hopefully the repair won't be too difficult and doesn't cut into your camping.
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:22 PM   #4
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Hi Lowell

Bummer... I know the feeling....

Any chance of more pics, inside and out? I'm trying to figure out on your camper where this is and how involved the area is.

This much I can say, start reading up on this stuff.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/

Some where along the way you are going to most likly need some to stop any rot from turning into dry rot.

And they also claim to be able to inject right into a frame member and build it back up. I have only used it on some wood that had wet staining to seal it shut and expell any moisture so I did not close up the wall and have dry rot inside later on.

This is fixable, just how much you have to dig is the question.

John
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Any chance of more pics, inside and out? I'm trying to figure out on your camper where this is and how involved the area is.
This would be in the right rear corner of the coach, underneath the kitchen sink and cabinets.
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:50 AM   #6
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wow what a shame and right before the camping season,looks like the results of a leaking storage compartment door,I would definately do the bright light at dark test on that compartment door,good luck with the repair.
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich2500
wow what a shame and right before the camping season,looks like the results of a leaking storage compartment door,I would definately do the bright light at dark test on that compartment door,good luck with the repair.
Yeah, that damage looks far too extensive for just a leaky awning bracket.

Good luck on the repair.

Jon
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:12 PM   #8
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After an 11 hour work day, I found a few hours this afternoon to do some work on the above problem. First I took my jig saw and cut out the portion of wood which is rotted. Then using a mini pry bar and a screwdriver I dug the wood out from the channel under the wall, which took forever. I then took my sawz-all and cut off the screws that had fastened the floor to the 2x4 floor joists. I also took the awning bracket and the compartment door off. Now I think I'm ready to get some of the wood hardener epoxy to try to save the 2x4. Then I'm going to cut a new piece of plywood to fit the removed woods space and under the wall. Then I'll work it into place and fasten it to the 2x4s.
I do have a question about the construction of the trailer. Where the floor meets the lower trim portion of the trailer there is the "beltline" where the trim insert covers the screws. Is there supposed to be a seal of any kind at this meeting place? I'll try to take a picture tomorrow afternoon after I get home from work to better describe what I mean. Hopefully the camera decides to cooperate, it has been on the fritz.
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Lowell, Amanda, Marley, and Winnie
1996 T-2053 (First Sunline "Little One")
2001 T-295SR (Favorite Sunline)
2003 F-304SR (Last Sunline "The Big One")
1985 T-1650 (Current Sunline)
2004.5 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 HO Cummins
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:15 PM   #9
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Oh, I almost forgot. I have some Kool Seal, Kool Patch Patching Tape that I've had for a few years. Its billed as a pliable, butyl, press-on repair tape. Would this be good for use behind the compartment door assembly when I put it back together?
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1996 T-2053 (First Sunline "Little One")
2001 T-295SR (Favorite Sunline)
2003 F-304SR (Last Sunline "The Big One")
1985 T-1650 (Current Sunline)
2004.5 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 HO Cummins
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:11 PM   #10
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Lowell

Is this the tape you are referring too?

http://www.koolseal.com/product_deta...duct_id=40-321

And yes the cargo hole must have new sealing tape on it when you put it back in. Donít reuse the old if you can at all help it.

What was there is most likely putty tape. Just try and pull it apart. It will snap quick. Then go get the Kool Seal butyl tape you have and pull it apart. If it is butyl, it will stretch out like taffy.

I myself have given up on putty tape and now only use butyl based sealant tape. The Kool seal appears butyl tape that we use on the roof under flanges. So it may be a little sticky until it skins over, but it will not leak. This will work to seal your door verses going out and buying new as long as it is still pliable. The stuff I bought says it has a 5 year shelf life before application. It may attract dirt a little more then putty tape, but it will not crack over time. If you want to offset the dirt sticky, some day use a real fine bead of Dicor over it. The Dicor will semi hardened and can be washed easily.

Putty tape that is the main stay sealing tape on windows etc, non roof, and will work, it is cheaper by a few bucks so the RV industry uses it. And some are better then others however it also drys and cracks over time where the butyl does not. While it too attracts dirt it is not as sticky and as dirt attacking as the butyl.

See here I just did my cargo door about 2 hours agoÖ. Fresh pics off the press.

Flange cleaned and butyl tape applied.


Camper side cleaned and door installed. Excess oozes out.


Then use a plastic something to trim with. I use a pot scraper. Score it, then peel the excess up.


Then I clean it up and put the vinyl insert back in.


Hope this helps

John
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Old 04-19-2010, 06:55 PM   #11
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Well, after a few weeks of hit or miss weather, work schedule, etc... I have completed the repair. I have everything back together except for the thin walls that seperate the compartment from the sink area. I was waiting for a few good rains before I button it all the way back up. As far as I can tell the damage was caused by a seperated awning bracket. It must have been leaking for quite a long time, and I missed it. We are planning on a trip this week-end, but it may have to wait for another week. Anyway it will be soon. Thanks for the help and the moral support.
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1996 T-2053 (First Sunline "Little One")
2001 T-295SR (Favorite Sunline)
2003 F-304SR (Last Sunline "The Big One")
1985 T-1650 (Current Sunline)
2004.5 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 HO Cummins
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