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Old 09-06-2010, 01:55 PM   #1
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No exterior lights

Coming home from camping this weekend, I was told that none of my exterior lights were working.

That includes the running lights, and turn signals. I am not sure on the brake lights.

Is there one place on the camper I should be looking when none of them work?

I don't think it is the connector in the back of the tv, which is my Durango. I will take my work truck up tomorrow to see if they work with that hookup.

I thought maybe the 30amp fuses in the storage area might be the culprit, but those are both good, and not sure if they even have anything to do with the exterior lights.

2001 2570 Solaris.

Thanks
Phil
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:02 PM   #2
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Phil,

The exterior lights (stop, turn, tail, markers) are connected directly to the 7 pin connector. They are not interconnected with any other system in the TT. You should be able to trace them from the end of the 7 pin pigtail all the way to the rear of the TT.

Best way to trouble shoot this is to first test at the connector on the back of the TV. If you have a volt meter or even just a automotive test light, you can quickly check stop, turn, and tail.

Here is an excellent link for the 7 way RV wiring information: Trailer Wiring Diagrams | etrailer.com
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:18 PM   #3
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Hi Steve,

Thanks for the link and the information. I will be testing the connectors as soon as possible.

After reading that article, I am leaning towards a bad ground wire, since the whole system does not seem to work.

Thanks again,
Phil
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:54 PM   #4
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This picture may help find the connections on the 7 pin connector. (click picture to enlarge)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg wiring_7_pole_500.jpg (45.4 KB, 20 views)
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:38 PM   #5
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Yes, the ground may be bad. Did you have any brakes? No ground at all and no brakes either.

While the tow ball "might" create a ground path it can be intermittent.

Like Steve stated, your going to have to ring this out with a meter or test light. If everything is working right, you can jump the battery charge pin in the TT 7 wire cord plug to the body turn signal and it should work with no truck at all. It will feed 12 volts from the battery charge pin from the on board battery to the turn light. If that does not work then you have to figure out if the ground is bad in the TT or you are not getting power to the plug to jump from or both

Good luck.

John
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:54 AM   #6
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If it is any help, in my '99, the S/T/T lines briefly enter the coach in the same box as the master 30 amp fuses. Sunline brought the end of the whole 7 wire pigtail in here except the blue brake wire and the orange auxillary wire and then routed S/T/T right back out. Originally, they were joined together with wire nuts. I replaced the wire nuts with a terminal strip at the same time that I changed from 30 am fuses to 30 amp breakers. Here's the before and after.

And the finished job:

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Old 09-12-2010, 06:35 PM   #7
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Dear Steve, Do you have a diagram for your adaptation? My 2000 T-2570 looks just like that and it would be a lot easier with breakers. I did write to you regarding hooking up my Honda 2000ui and blowing that fuse. Didn't know if surge power was the problem.
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoanneS View Post
Dear Steve, Do you have a diagram for your adaptation? My 2000 T-2570 looks just like that and it would be a lot easier with breakers. I did write to you regarding hooking up my Honda 2000ui and blowing that fuse. Didn't know if surge power was the problem.
I didn't use a diagram. I just replaced the S/T/T wire nuts with the terminal strip on the left and the two 30 amp fuses and sockets with the two circuit breakers on the right. Each connection and wiring is exactly the same as the factory original but much, much neater.

All of the parts in the picture are readily available at any decent auto parts store.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:00 PM   #9
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I guess my next question is-are both the main wires from the battery and to the invertor red? I'm going by your pictures as it's easier than getting into my cubby hole in the trailer. Are they marked or do I have to test them? Pardon my ignorance but it's hard to tell.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoanneS View Post
I guess my next question is-are both the main wires from the battery and to the invertor red? I'm going by your pictures as it's easier than getting into my cubby hole in the trailer. Are they marked or do I have to test them? Pardon my ignorance but it's hard to tell.
On the right, they are as labeled. CONVERTOR and BATTERY are the two red wires. The heavy black wire going to the upper terminal on the right hand circuit breaker (yellow connector insulation) is the 12vdc charge line from the TV, I believe.

They are not marked by Sunline. I added the labels when I did the mod. You'll need a multimeter to verify which is which on your rig.

I can not be be 100% certain that your unit will have the same wiring as mine. It is likely as they are only a year apart, but not a certainty. You will have to verify each wire's source or destination to be sure.
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:15 PM   #11
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No exterior lights

Thanks for all your help. I wish I had found this sight years ago.
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Old 09-14-2010, 04:49 PM   #12
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Steve,

I have one more question regarding the rewiring in the fuse box up front. What size connector (to connect to breakers) did you you use for the red wire from the battery to the converter? Also, did you make the piece connecting the two breakers or can I purchase that? Sorry, that's two questions.
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoanneS View Post
Steve,

I have one more question regarding the rewiring in the fuse box up front. What size connector (to connect to breakers) did you you use for the red wire from the battery to the converter? Also, did you make the piece connecting the two breakers or can I purchase that? Sorry, that's two questions.
I used standard over-the-counter connectors from the wiring rack at my local auto parts store. I think those red wires are #10 awg and I used the connectors for that size wire. You may want to verify the size of your wires before you go shopping.

The little piece connecting the two breakers is just two spade connectors crimped and soldered together. Again for #10 wire. I've seen a manufactured one that was just a flat piece of brass with two holes punched in it, but did not not want to waste a bunch of time looking for it. It was just a lot faster and easier to grab two lugs from my parts box and make my own. I added the blue heat shrink tubing for added protection against accidental shorts.
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