New Member, LED lighting Part numbers?

[drkilldrmz]

Hello Group. I have been lurking and have at least a thousand questions, but ill start with a couple basic ones. I purchased a 1998 32' slide room ( SR-320? ) , and transported it right up to some remote land in Maine. Needs a new bathroom floor, and there is a soft spot on the forward roof where the edpm is rippled a bit, but overall, i don't mind the project. Im looking for the part numbers to replace the interior bulbs with LED..They appear to be a trailer light type bulb, and if anyone knows the size of the T-molding that surrounds the tables, that would be awesome!! Ill save the quick battery drain issues, and slide out electrical for another time..Thank you in advance!!

[Sunline Fan]

Welcome!

I can't help with your bulb numbers, but I do know they are fairly easy to find. They are 12v DC bulbs, not 120v AC like a house, so I guess they are special in that way. These are like an automotive bulb.

As for the roof, ripples in the rubber are ok and pretty common in the corners. What does the rubber feel like when you push on it? If it's fairly firm, like pushing on a cardboard box, then the roof is ok. If it's like pushing on a balloon, then you do have major water damage. Either way, your trailer is probably in for a seal job with some new Dicor self leveling RV roof sealant.

The rubber T-molding, that's a good question. It's kind of a rare thing in Sunlines, most of the higher end Sunlines used oak molding on the edge instead. The early Slide Room trailers (including your 320SR) were built like Saturn trailers of the time- still constructed the same, but with cheaper detail materials like those edges.

[drkilldrmz]

All 12v bulbs for sure! The LED replacements will cost a bit more than the original Automotive type bulbs, so i wanted to make sure i didn't order the incorrect part. The bulb " Nipples?" look like they are offset. I should have just brought one back from up north in hindsight. Yeah.. I have a little balloon in the front, but firstly, i will reseal the seams. I already found the source being a hole in the Cap around the water pipe towards the rear. Hopefully i can put some wood on the roof to make it thru the winter until im ready for job that size.. Otherwise, it's in fine shape. Thank you for your reply!

[Sunline Fan]

Originally Posted by drkilldrmz

I already found the source being a hole in the Cap around the water pipe towards the rear. Hopefully i can put some wood on the roof to make it thru the winter until im ready for job that size.. Otherwise, it's in fine shape. Thank you for your reply!

I had one like that on my '97. It sounds like it's your stink pipe cap, which is a vent pipe that goes all the way up in the trailer from the holding tank underneath and vents out the roof. The plastic gets brittle and crumbles. If you haven't replaced it yet, you'll have fun doing so- what's left will probably fall apart in your hands when you remove it. A good thing for ribs, not good for RV plastic!

Luckily new vents are available and pretty cheap, and it'll need to be sealed as well. Plan on almost half a tube of Dicor sealant just to replace around that pipe. I painted my replacement with Krylon Fusion paint and clearcoated before I installed, to try to prevent UV from destroying the new plastic.

You may have two or three of these vents total, depending on if you have one or two gray tanks. I would plan to replace all the vent caps, because if the other isn't broken yet, it may be close. One bump with a wash brush when washing the roof could break it completely off- also been there, done that.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by drkilldrmz

I purchased a 1998 32' slide room ( SR-320? )

Im looking for the part numbers to replace the interior bulbs with LED..They appear to be a trailer light type bulb, and if anyone knows the size of the T-molding that surrounds the tables, that would be awesome!!

Odds are high your camper uses either the standard 12 volt 921 wedge base bulbs and or the

For the 921 bulbs I converted to these LED's. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ens/2805/4631/

Looks like this. We bought the warm white as we like that lower light range and is closer to the incandescent light it is changing. But cool white which is a lot brighter some folks like it better. So personal choice.

Here is the 921's next to the LEDs (The larger mini flood lights are different.)


They went in a fixture like this and have a white cover over them not shown


Over the table we have lights like this


Here I had to use a different one that has the plug on the back


Here is a brighter one then the 4 LED one we have
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ens/2834/4911/


Also to note, these are polarity sensitive. Sunline may have not wired every fixture exactly correct as to what was 12 volt positive and 12 volt negative and it did not matter on incandescent bulbs. On a few of mine the LED's would not light, I pulled the fixture out of the ceiling, flipped the 2 wires and then the LED's work in that fixture as I could not flip the bulb in all cases.

Hope this helps

John

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by drkilldrmz

if anyone knows the size of the T-molding that surrounds the tables, that would be awesome!!

This "might" be what you are looking for. "Cabinet T Molding" See if the dimensions line up. If not then try some more searching on the T molding.

I have never bought from either of these 2 places, so proceed with caution.

Plastic T-Molding Edging-3/4" Wide x 12' Long - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Cabinet Tee Molding (Per Foot) | GoWesty

If you find these do work out or you found a better source, please post what you found. My camper has "some" of this but much wider. Mine is close to 1 1/4" I think. It is not on the tables, but the end wall of a cabinet.

Hope this helps

John

[j52wf]

Regarding your quick battery drain issue, check inside the door frame of the fridge. There may be a small climate control switch used to warm door gasket in humid weather. Make sure it is off. It will drain a battery in a day.

[drkilldrmz]

You guys are great. Thank you! after looking some, it looks like i have what's called a 15D type of socket. The nipples on the base of the socket being offset like my utility trailer lights.
3/4 T-molding looks like what im looking for. And i never thought there might be an additional switch in the fridge, so that's on the list to check!
Crazy.. I bought a new group 29 battery and operated Only the fridge on Propane and lights for about 2 hours at night before it dropped to 50%. I appreciate the thoughts here!

[j52wf]

If you google "rv fridge climate control switch", it explains and shows a picture.