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Old 03-16-2018, 07:08 AM   #1
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New fenders... busy, busy, busy

I need to replace my fenders, they are failing badly. Seeing that they are mostly cosmetic, I let them go to the point that they are ready to self destruct - AND THEY ARE READY!!! The screw holes are nearly all torn/cracked around the margins and I've fixed them before with washers and they are all ready to let go again.

I ordered new fenders from icon.

The previous owner (I'm assuming that wasn't factory) put a bead of clear silicone in the margin between the fender and siding. The silicone is not pulling off clean. Anyone have a removal suggestion of silicone from the Krystal Cote. Mineral spirits is compatible with the Krystal cote and is supposed to soften silicone somewhat.

Does anyone have tips on installing the fenders? I will bed the screws in something (dicor or butyl tape) to eliminate water intrusion at the screws. All my plastic trims like that were caulked with silicone covering the plastic to siding gap (fenders and under door trim). What do they come like from factory? Just gaps between plastic and siding or with caulk in the gap? I can't imagine the fit would be that good that they wouldn't gap.
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Old 03-16-2018, 09:41 AM   #2
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These skirts were usually putty taped on the back around the screws, and then they did run a bead of silicone along the top edge of the skirt like you describe. I'm not sure why other than for cosmetics, because it doesn't take much to split that seal.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9461.2 (as of 10/01/16)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
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Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 03-16-2018, 09:46 AM   #3
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These skirts were usually putty taped on the back around the screws, and then they did run a bead of silicone along the top edge of the skirt like you describe. I'm not sure why other than for cosmetics, because it doesn't take much to split that seal.
Thanks! I'm surprised they used silicone, but it does cover the gap and it has lasted 10 years, so good enough I guess. I can't freehand caulk like that (and I've applied quite a lot of caulk in my day - enough to know I can't tolerate freehanding it), so I'll be doing something more elaborate with caulk adn masking if I have a gap to cover.
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Old 03-16-2018, 10:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post
Thanks! I'm surprised they used silicone, but it does cover the gap and it has lasted 10 years, so good enough I guess. I can't freehand caulk like that (and I've applied quite a lot of caulk in my day - enough to know I can't tolerate freehanding it), so I'll be doing something more elaborate with caulk adn masking if I have a gap to cover.
Same, I'd need to mask it off for a nice bead too! Since it's so difficult to remove from the siding, the masking is well worth the time. Luckily it's a pretty gentle curve.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9461.2 (as of 10/01/16)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 03-16-2018, 06:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post

The previous owner (I'm assuming that wasn't factory) put a bead of clear silicone in the margin between the fender and siding. The silicone is not pulling off clean. Anyone have a removal suggestion of silicone from the Krystal Cote. Mineral spirits is compatible with the Krystal cote and is supposed to soften silicone somewhat.
I have a quart of this.


It does not harm the paint or Krystal cote so far, I used it some to try it. I bought it for silicone removal I need to do on my neighbors Cougar TT later this year on a water repair. It is rated for silicone but I have not yet tried it.

On the install, as Jon said, I put butyl tape on the back and stick it to the camper. I have converted to all stainless screws on the outside to get out of the rust.

Mine never had any caulk on them from the factory. But that is in 2004 and a slide camper so the fender well is different. Not so high up on the camper to allow leak like the fender well of a non slide camper. Your fenders are gold I think, mine are white and Dicor non leveling works good on the white. The gold, well you want to probably mask it to create a true straight line on the gold fender if you use the Dicor. I have done the masking a long time ago and it helps before I semi mastered a dicor method with no masking. Each caulk has its own special tricks.

Try and not over tighten the screws. Use hand tight, not drill clutch slip.

You can see here, the skirt is below the floor line. Scroll through the pic until you get to the skirt. I have stuck the butyl on the camper first and I have put it on the skirt and applied the skirt. Both methods work. Sticking it to the skirt is a little better as you know you are going to cover over the curves.
Slide Floor Water Damage

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-17-2018, 12:01 PM   #6
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Thanks John. I’m replacing the fenders with white. Saves $60 and I had some concern about color match. I think it will ok/good looking at the colors of the 2004 campers, which have the darker bottom siding and white fenders (as you know).

I usually replace everything with stainless on the exterior, a habit from working on the boat. My fenders are really cracked, I don’t know if the screws were originally over tightened or what. The way they are built I think contributes some, there is a lot of unsupported area between the tires the fender drops down. I’ve glimpsed it vibrating before on the road in the wind. Having them off will facilitate the axle work, I think. No sign of the axles, but my card did get charged.

I found the solvent you have is pretty available. I checked the SDS and the contents are as you would expect - naphtha, xylene, and others.... gets good reviews....
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Old 03-17-2018, 05:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod Osier View Post
My fenders are really cracked, I donít know if the screws were originally over tightened or what. The way they are built I think contributes some, there is a lot of unsupported area between the tires the fender drops down. Iíve glimpsed it vibrating before on the road in the wind. Having them off will facilitate the axle work, I think.
No, it isn't related to the way they are built. The tiny fender skirts crack too. The ones on my '97 are the really skinny type and are really cracked, to the point where I need to think about taking them off and trying to reinforce them from behind. I just can't bring myself to buy the Icon with the Icon logo in it.

My '07 skirts are doing good yet, because they've been out of the sun.

I think the cracking is a combination of wind behind them, air temp and direct sun causing the plastic to expand and contract, water getting behind them and freezing, and overall UV degradation. They all seem to crack in different ways and at different times.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9461.2 (as of 10/01/16)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:54 AM   #8
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I'm hoping the icon fenders are the premium product that the price suggests...
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Old 03-26-2018, 10:08 PM   #9
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I use a wagner heat gun to warm up the caulk or putty and can get it off pretty easily, also if you have to remove a window heating up the old putty with it really makes it easy to remove the window.
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