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Old 06-11-2019, 04:38 PM   #1
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My first issue

New to me 1990 T2663,.. Ive been going through all the appliances and such, everything seems to work as it should except;
I have the fridge hooked up to 120v and turned on, the element is getting hot as is the flue,...(I even ohm checked the element and it checked out at 44ohms),... but the fridge is not cooling,... do I need a recharge of Freon ?

I have not checked the fridge on LP yet,... but if the element and the flue are getting hot so why wouldnt it work ?? Thank You.
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:44 PM   #2
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RV fridges don't use freon. They run on ammonia. If the fridge isn't cooling when the element is heated, the fridge probably needs replacing
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:34 PM   #3
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RV fridges don't use freon. They run on ammonia. If the fridge isn't cooling when the element is heated, the fridge probably needs replacing

Ouch ! ,.... I know those units are $$$$
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Old 06-11-2019, 07:26 PM   #4
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On ebay, there is an Amish company remanufacturing the coils for around $500. Don't know anything about the process of replacing the coil.
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Old 06-11-2019, 08:50 PM   #5
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Well,... for the past 3 hrs I been watching youtube videos on replacing the cooling unit,... doesnt look too terrible.

https://www.rvcool.com/

These guys have re-manufactures units for $425 plus $65 shipping,.. looks like a job in my near future.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:05 PM   #6
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How long have you been waiting while plugged in?
These things take very long time to get cold...
You won't notice cold in minutes, more like hours for freezer probably longer for fridge.
Also important camper is level
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:37 PM   #7
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Yes you actually can, some doors are too small to get the dang thing outside but you still can rebuilt it on the kitchen table!
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:11 PM   #8
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As said, it can take 8 plus hours to cool down the fridge and freeze ice in the freezer. And the chimney area will be warm. And the fridge must be level or it will overheat and cause damage as the liquid is not moving correctly.

Did you see any yellow residue in the burner area? Look for it, take the gas burner cover off and look in there with the gas burner is. If the cooling unit failed, one of the most common locations for failing is the burner area.

If after some trouble shooting you end up needing a cooling using change. I have bought a new cooling unit from RV cool. I was impressed with the all new cooling unit. I cannot speak to the rebuilt units but if they do them as good as the new ones, they should be good.
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:40 AM   #9
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Thank you for all the help. Yes Ive left it on for several hrs,.. Stack area is getting hot,.. element is working good,...but nothings getting cold at all. Frig is level.... and I see no sign of yellow residue in or around the burner area, or anywhere for that matter.. Stack and flue area are clear, no obstructions,.. I can feel the heat rising up to the roof vent.
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:55 PM   #10
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Forgot to ask before, while the stack area is getting hot, did you feel the pipes on the opposite side? As far over as you can from the burner area.

If yours did not leak out of the fluid, there is sort of a backyard fix that some have done. It is sort of a 50/50 shot if it works. Sometimes a blockage occurs and gets stuck in the tubing. Reports have been made that turning the fridge upside down and hearing and letting the fluid move around, can sometimes break the blockage free. Then it may work. If a prior owner ran it enough off level long enough, it could of overheated and created a blockage of the rust inhibitor in the cooling fluid. If the blockage is big enough, it may never move.

I have never done the tip over and get it to work trick, but heard of it. This much I can say, if the cooling coil does have a leak, the fluid should be gone. The ammonia will evaporate out and the sodium chromate rust inhibitor should leave a trail somewhere.

If and when you remove the fridge you could rock it left to right and you should hear fluid running in the pipes. Lay the fridge on the sides and rock it back and forth. You should hear it as that is part of the start up of a new coil to get the fluid down in the boiler area. I have done that and can hear it. If you hear nothing, then somehow the fluid drained out. And if it did, somewhere the the yellow stains of the sodium chromate should be there. Even in the wood cabinet under the fridge. That stuff bonds itself to the steel. Yet, Dawn dish soap cuts it quick I have found.

Here are some pics of the yellow residue I am referring too. The bottom of the fridge wood cabinet where it had puddled was also full of it.







Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-13-2019, 04:07 PM   #11
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This is very helpful John,..thank you,.. I see no sign of residue,..but it certainly cant hurt to try the tip and rock method. TY
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:27 PM   #12
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I pulled the unit from the camper,.. I was tipping and rocking and at first heard no liquid movement,... then I turned it upside down and heard a gusher of liquid move from top to bottom,... did that a couple time and could then REALLY hear the fluid moving,...its now in the garage, leveled and plugged into 110 ac,... I'll report the temp findings in the morning.
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:33 PM   #13
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Great!!! Well, it didn't leak out. Now if you can be in the 50% that works, you will have it made.

FYI in case you didn't know, the fridge also needs 12 VDC to run, even on electric. 12 volts runs the controls, 120 VAC runs the element once the controls turns it on. Just hook it up to a battery and your good to go.
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
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FYI in case you didn't know, the fridge also needs 12 VDC to run, even on electric. 12 volts runs the controls, 120 VAC runs the element once the controls turns it on. Just hook it up to a battery and your good to go.
I did not know this John,.. I had it hooked up to JUST 120 AC and the element was getting hot,.. maybe because the controls were already set to coldest position,...so if the element is getting hot and the fluid is starting to flow,.. will it still get cold even if its not hooked up to 12 VDC ???
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