Model CS6000 power converter - Page 2

**JohnB** · 11-03-2009, 04:26 PM

H'mm

Well the pic fires if I paste it in a web browser but I can tell it will not post here as the format is wrong. And I backed into the Picasa Web Albums web site but that did not help much. It wants me to sign up...

Need a clear public path to the pic and it ends in .jpg yours has a /jpg

I'll hunt some more to see if I can figure it out. Some how you are copying the wrong address in.

John

kanyonkitty · 11-03-2009, 05:04 PM

Can you see it now John ????

**JohnB** · 11-03-2009, 05:35 PM

OK Kitty, yes now I see

What magic did you do? Add the dot before the jpg? I took the slash off and that did not do it.

John

kanyonkitty · 11-03-2009, 05:45 PM

no magic, John I just tried putting a "dot" after the backslash and it worked

/.jpeg

Kitty (NOT a computer wiz, I need power tools

tervio · 11-03-2009, 07:01 PM

Thanks Everyone, I will try again to post the pictures.

This is the front view of the new CS6000-XL I received.

This is inside front cover.

This is with front panel removed showing DC strip.

This is the board out of the new converter.

I was not to happy when I installed the new CS6000-XL and it did not work. If you remember from previous posts I was told that the old board from the original converter was not repairable. When tech support received the new board I told them that to me it looked like a refurbished or used board. It even had a date stamp on the board of 2007. They then told me that it looked like it was damaged during the install(of course). Although I know that it was damaged from the factory or during shipping they repaired the board and I am waiting for shipment. I am getting the old board back and have a friend who wants to take a look at it.
I will keep you up to date when I receive the board and when I test it.

Thanks everyone
Tervio

tervio · 11-03-2009, 07:08 PM

Here is a larger pic of the board.

You can see that the bundle of wires pulled that part right off the board.

Tervio

tervio · 11-04-2009, 07:17 PM

Hi JohnB,
I received the repaired board today, and it still does not produce any DC volts when I test it. I get 120AC volts at the board but no DC coming out. I am getting tired of this run around from American.

Tervio

**JohnB** · 11-04-2009, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tervio

Hi JohnB,
I received the repaired board today, and it still does not produce any DC volts when I test it. I get 120AC volts at the board but no DC coming out. I am getting tired of this run around from American.

Tervio

Oh boy. This is not good. I'm assuming you are saying you plugged it in on the bench and just tested the DC output line and get nothing??

H’mm unless they are doing some type of system shut down when no load is on the system to not create heat to have to run the fans. It is a converter and not a DC power supply per say.

Giving them the benefit of the doubt, do you have a 12 volt light bulb or anything that can create a load on the DC line?

Hook up a load and then put the meter on it. IF, and that is a big if, they are doing something of a output shut down your volt meter might not be enough of a load to activate it.

A call to them asking, should I get 13.2 volts with no load at all when I plug it in??

If they actually repaired the board and it is now toast still, that is discouraging for sure.

I can see in your pic above what looks like choke is ripped out of the PC board.

Please report back once you find something. This is new learning stuff now.

Good luck

John

frank · 11-05-2009, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnB

Hook up a load and then put the meter on it. IF, and that is a big if, they are doing something of a output shut down your volt meter might not be enough of a load to activate it.

John could very well be on to something here. If you are testing it naked on the bench, it may not "power up" without a load.

From the pictures it appears to be a switchmode device. I dont have a lot of experience with switchmode converters, but do have a bit with switchmode power supplies. Although different devices, the main underlying principals are still the same.

Anyway, some switchmode supplies will not power up unless there is a load present when they are turned on. So, you may need to disconnect the 110 in, apply a load to the output, and then give it the 110V.

Good luck!

- Frank

tervio · 11-06-2009, 04:43 PM

Hi John, Frank,
I did make a call to American and the converter should be putting out 13.2 DC volts on the test bench with out a load present. I will be posting some pic's later to show the condition of the board after I received it when it was supposed to be repaired. They returned my old board from the CS6000 and this board in the same package with no packing between the boards. I have always taken extra care when sending these to American , bubble wrap, new box, newspaper, etc.
I am really not to happy with the relationship developing with American. First their claim that the board was damaged during install,and now this is the second time they will be looking at this board. I told them that this has to be resolved or I will be looking for a full refund and costs for shipping ($12 each time)

Thanks for your help, and JohnB I now find myself thinking about locations for the Progressive Dynamics Converter if this does not work. I took the easy way out because I thought this was going to be a simple plug and play switch.

Thanks again
Tervio

**JohnB** · 11-06-2009, 08:30 PM

Tervio

Sorry to hear about this. This is discouraging. Shipping of electronics unprotected is not standard practice and very much so, poor practice.

I hope you find some resolution with them even if it is a refund. Lack of Quality service and lack of attention to detail can do a company in fast.

Good luck how ever this comes out and do let us know what you end up with.

John

tervio · 11-09-2009, 07:59 PM

Hi Everyone,
Sorry some of the pictures I took did not turn out, but here are some.

This Picture shows AC Voltage to the board, I was also told that a white epoxy was used around some items to make sure they held in place during shipment. (The Model CS6000 board had none of this.)

This picture although blurry shows the epoxy at the bottom of these two parts.

No DC Voltage

This picture shows more epoxy at the connection for the fans. This epoxy was used at a lot of places. Also note the date 07/28/2007 below the model #

Again sorry the other pictures did not turn out but this is a sample of what I have been going through. American should receive the board Thursday. I will let you know what they say this time.

Thanks
Tervio

tervio · 11-16-2009, 04:02 AM

Hi JohnB And Others,
American did receive the board Thursday and the Tech department told me that he told the warehouse to send me a "new board". I am now waiting for that board. I will keep you advised.
Thanks
Tervio

tervio · 11-19-2009, 04:41 PM

Hi JohnB & Sunliners,
I did receive the new board today and took it to the bench and this one tested fine. Also it was packaged much better than the others. Here are some pictures.

GREAT DC VOLTAGE!!!!!

Sorry the next two pictures are blurry but maybe you can still see the white paste or epoxy used to hold items to the board?? This is what I was told it was from Tech Support

Now we have to make it back up north to do the install and do the final check. I will let you know how that works when we are able to make the trip.

Thanks for all the help
Tervio

**JohnB** · 11-19-2009, 06:19 PM

GREAT!!! Well this is step 1. It has to work coming out of the box

Good luck

John

tervio · 06-08-2010, 10:27 AM

Hi everyone,
We did make it up north this weekend. I was able to install the new power converter board and it works fine. I do like that the cooling fans are not running all the time but will only run when needed. So far ( 2 days ) all is well. I still do not like the fit of this plug and play converter, the AC circuit breakers do not fit the cover panel as well as the old one did. It may be something I look into later.

Thanks Tervio

BobNKaren · 06-15-2010, 09:08 PM

I had a similar problem with both fuses blown. I had let the battery run down and when I switched on the AC converter the fuses blew. Before I replaced the fuses I checked the battery voltage and it was down to about 7 volts ( that's a dead battery). I put the battery on charge for about 30 minutes and then switched over to the converter and it brought it back up to full charge. Only time will tell if I hurt the battery. O well it is 7 years old and has a lot of charge cycles as we do a lot of dry camping, I think between the dead battery and the load in the trailer it was over the 60 amp fused load.

Prolift1 · 02-28-2016, 09:35 AM

I live full time in my rv, it has a centurion CS6000 power converter. When I am plugged in to ac power the highest I can get my batteries to charge is 13.1 volts. Does anyone have a manual, or know where the adjustment is for the battery charger? I would like to set it at 14.2 volt kick out.
Any help with this would be appreciated, thank you,
Bill

**JohnB** · 02-28-2016, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prolift1

I live full time in my rv, it has a centurion CS6000 power converter. When I am plugged in to ac power the highest I can get my batteries to charge is 13.1 volts. Does anyone have a manual, or know where the adjustment is for the battery charger? I would like to set it at 14.2 volt kick out.
Any help with this would be appreciated, thank you,
Bill

Hi Bill,

The CS6000 is a non adjustable power converter. If all you are getting is 13.1 volts, that is the float or maintain charge. the most it will give you is 13.6 which is normal charge. The old converters did not have the new boost feature (14.4 volt)

You did not mention how new or old your batteries are and what the idle/resting voltage is. Meaning, unplug the converter for over night. Let the battery rest for at least 8 more hours, longer towards 24 hrs is even better, Do not use large loads then get a battery voltage in the morning.

12.7 is 100% charge in the best of conditions. 12.6 is right behind it at the battery itself. Unless you have a good precision meter it may not see the difference between 12.7 or 12.6. This may help from the Trojan battery site. Scroll down to "Open circuit test"

Battery Maintenance | Trojan Battery Company

Odds are high that older converter may not drop out of float mode to normal charge until you get down to 12.6 to 12.5 volt area, maybe a little higher. for sure by 12.5 it should be in normal charge. Again if you have a precision meter and testing right at the battery. When I had my prior CS6000 I do not recall the exact voltage it dropped out of normal charge into float.

Hope this helps

John

Prolift1 · 02-29-2016, 11:48 AM

Thank you John,
Just needed to know if it was adjustable, I have 4 new 6 volt batteries and 300 watts of solar with an adjustable controller set at 14.4 drop out. So power is no problem, except when there is a couple of cloudy days. Then the on board charger floats at 13.1. I also have a 700 watt and 2000 watt inverters that run a chest freezer by day and heated c-pap at night, among other appliances. Just wanted more out of my charger!
My next question would be, can you replace just the charger, or the whole controller? And what do you recommend I replace it with?
BTW, I have a 2000 Holiday Rambler, Alumiscape 28', bumper pull trailer.
Thanks again,
Bill