Lower awning mount

Mike13 · 07-20-2015, 03:58 AM

Yep. I think the wood is rotted.

Time to splice in a new piece.

jim44646 · 07-20-2015, 01:13 PM

Also find where the water came from.

j52wf · 07-20-2015, 01:38 PM

That is my next project. After I get back from South Dakota (hope awning makes it there and back). How easy is it to expose that area?

jim44646 · 07-20-2015, 01:48 PM

Not hard, just time consuming. Take off corner strip ( a bunch of screws) pull staples from underside slide panel off. Best to work under some sort of shelter. Reapply corner with butyl rubber tape

Mike13 · 07-20-2015, 03:06 PM

It looks like the water was coming in from that mount. The worst of it is at the mounting bolts. Thanks for the butyl tape info! I was going to use silicone. I'll pick up some tape from Napa tomorrow.

It was pretty easy getting the panel off. Just TONS of staples.

j52wf · 07-20-2015, 04:00 PM

Unfortunately, I have a storage compartment on that panel. I think that also has to come off before I can remove the panel.

jim44646 · 07-20-2015, 08:45 PM

Make sure it's the 3/4 inch wide butyl tape. When you you install awning mount screws predrill and coat the screw with Dicor caulk. The same stuff you use on roof seams.

Mike13 · 07-22-2015, 03:33 AM

Got the new wood scabbed in this morning. A piece of pallet works great

tomorrow morning, the panel goes back on and I can scratch this off my honey-do list. Next project is a clothes rack that mounts on the rear bumper.

BudVanBeer1 · 09-13-2015, 04:49 PM

Hello, Mike13, I'm new here and I'm wondering how difficult is it to remove the outer skin so it goes back together "fairly " easily? It looks like a nice job by you, I like the repurposing of the pallet wood!

j52wf · 09-13-2015, 05:26 PM

Is the pallet piece screwed into the frame? or into the floor?

BudVanBeer1 · 11-10-2015, 05:49 PM

Mike13 never responded...does anyone else here have any info for me as to how to remove the outer skin (without destroying it)?

Poppy & Nana · 11-10-2015, 06:48 PM

Bud - John B is our resident engineer - he has removed and replaced sooooo many things on his Sunlines (maintenance mostly) - I'm sure he will be along soon with a link on how to remove the siding....

vcrt · 11-10-2015, 08:28 PM

R&R of the aluminum siding isn't difficult if there aren't windows, doors or other items screwed in over it. Even then, it's not that it's difficult, just takes more time. Start by pulling the vinyl screw cover from the corner moldings. Then you will see the hex head screws that hold the moldings in place. Take out as many as you need to so that the molding can be lifted away from the siding section you want to remove. When the screws are out, gently lift the molding away from the siding with a blade or putty knife (about 2" wide is good). You'll be pulling against the stickiness of the putty tape used to seal the molding to the aluminum siding. Try not to kink the molding while lifting it. Then, clean off the old putty tape. You'll see steel staples holding the siding under the corner molding. Remove all you need to remove to free the siding. There will also be some staples where the bottom siding section wraps under the wall. At the front or rear of the trailer remove the hex screws holding it in place. At this point, you'll be able to pull the bottom panel of siding down and away from the trailer. The next one up is held in with more staples in the flange that was hidden by the lower section. Remove sections as high as you need to go.
Replacement is just the reverse, but now, unless you have a heavy duty staple gun, you can use flat headed screws to substitute for staples. I say flat headed, because if you use a screw that stands above the siding on the flange, the next panel down that hides them will be deformed by the screw head resulting in small bumps (ask me how I know this).
Use 1-1/2" wide butyl tape to reseal the corners, screw down the corner molding, use the same butyl tape to replace any windows etc. that were removed and replace the old (or new if needed) vinyl insert and your done.

Hope this answers your question,
Rich

BudVanBeer1 · 11-11-2015, 03:59 PM

Thanks, Rich. That's kinda what I thought, just needed verification...and a sunny weekend!

**JohnB** · 11-14-2015, 05:58 PM

Hi Bud,

This may help. Here are some pics to go along with the process VCRT was describing.

This is a camper slide repair however the siding comes off and back on the same on most camper. I used a fine standard screw driver to gently get under the staples and then needle nose vise grips to pull out the staples. Sometimes the vise grips will grap and I do not need the screw driver.

Hope this helps

John
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...html#post84571

j52wf · 04-17-2016, 03:24 PM

I just started what I thought would be the same repair. Got the siding off and sure enough the wood was rotted. Bigger problem was when I reached up and the subfloor in this area was virtually non-existent. Seems like only thing keeping stuff in storage bin is the linoleum floor. Really need some advice on what to do now. Can I work from the bottom to replace some flooring? I am going to have to pull down a lot of the membrane to see what's what. How do I repair it? I will pm my contact number to anyone who can help?

vcrt · 04-17-2016, 07:12 PM

Let's start with some photos. Every camper is different and requires a different approach to working on it.
Rich

j52wf · 04-17-2016, 07:54 PM

Unless I am mistaken, I need to get a photobucket account to post a picture? Or is there an easier way? I do have a picture of the damage.

j52wf · 04-17-2016, 08:05 PM

j52wf · 04-17-2016, 08:09 PM

How about that! It worked. So, there is my problem. The rafters that the wood ties into is also rotted and the floor above the dark area is dust. I am thinking of taking down some of the bottom membrane to get a better look before I take out the rot. How easy/difficult is it to re attach and tape up the membrane?