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07-20-2015, 03:58 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 21
SUN #7437
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Lower awning mount
Yep. I think the wood is rotted. Time to splice in a new piece.
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07-20-2015, 01:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,126
SUN #4040
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Also find where the water came from.
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Jim and DW Darlene
2001 T-2553 Sunline Solaris
2006 GMC Sierra Duramax 2500HD 4X4
Firestone Transforce AT tires
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control
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07-20-2015, 01:38 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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That is my next project. After I get back from South Dakota (hope awning makes it there and back). How easy is it to expose that area?
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07-20-2015, 01:48 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,126
SUN #4040
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Not hard, just time consuming. Take off corner strip ( a bunch of screws) pull staples from underside slide panel off. Best to work under some sort of shelter. Reapply corner with butyl rubber tape
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Jim and DW Darlene
2001 T-2553 Sunline Solaris
2006 GMC Sierra Duramax 2500HD 4X4
Firestone Transforce AT tires
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control
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07-20-2015, 03:06 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 21
SUN #7437
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It looks like the water was coming in from that mount. The worst of it is at the mounting bolts. Thanks for the butyl tape info! I was going to use silicone. I'll pick up some tape from Napa tomorrow.
It was pretty easy getting the panel off. Just TONS of staples.
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07-20-2015, 04:00 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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Unfortunately, I have a storage compartment on that panel. I think that also has to come off before I can remove the panel.
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07-20-2015, 08:45 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,126
SUN #4040
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Make sure it's the 3/4 inch wide butyl tape. When you you install awning mount screws predrill and coat the screw with Dicor caulk. The same stuff you use on roof seams.
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Jim and DW Darlene
2001 T-2553 Sunline Solaris
2006 GMC Sierra Duramax 2500HD 4X4
Firestone Transforce AT tires
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control
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07-22-2015, 03:33 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 21
SUN #7437
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Got the new wood scabbed in this morning. A piece of pallet works great tomorrow morning, the panel goes back on and I can scratch this off my honey-do list. Next project is a clothes rack that mounts on the rear bumper.
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09-13-2015, 04:49 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 6
SUN #7811
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Hello, Mike13, I'm new here and I'm wondering how difficult is it to remove the outer skin so it goes back together "fairly " easily? It looks like a nice job by you, I like the repurposing of the pallet wood!
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09-13-2015, 05:26 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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Is the pallet piece screwed into the frame? or into the floor?
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11-10-2015, 05:49 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 6
SUN #7811
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Mike13 never responded...does anyone else here have any info for me as to how to remove the outer skin (without destroying it)?
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11-10-2015, 06:48 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 2,909
SUN #93
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Bud - John B is our resident engineer - he has removed and replaced sooooo many things on his Sunlines (maintenance mostly) - I'm sure he will be along soon with a link on how to remove the siding....
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Kathy & Leo SUN 093
Central Adirondacks of New York
2013 Rubicon 2900 Toy Hauler
We loved our 2007 T-2499
2010 Ford F-350 4x4 Lariat Super Crew Dually Diesel
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11-10-2015, 08:28 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 838
SUN #37
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R&R of the aluminum siding isn't difficult if there aren't windows, doors or other items screwed in over it. Even then, it's not that it's difficult, just takes more time. Start by pulling the vinyl screw cover from the corner moldings. Then you will see the hex head screws that hold the moldings in place. Take out as many as you need to so that the molding can be lifted away from the siding section you want to remove. When the screws are out, gently lift the molding away from the siding with a blade or putty knife (about 2" wide is good). You'll be pulling against the stickiness of the putty tape used to seal the molding to the aluminum siding. Try not to kink the molding while lifting it. Then, clean off the old putty tape. You'll see steel staples holding the siding under the corner molding. Remove all you need to remove to free the siding. There will also be some staples where the bottom siding section wraps under the wall. At the front or rear of the trailer remove the hex screws holding it in place. At this point, you'll be able to pull the bottom panel of siding down and away from the trailer. The next one up is held in with more staples in the flange that was hidden by the lower section. Remove sections as high as you need to go.
Replacement is just the reverse, but now, unless you have a heavy duty staple gun, you can use flat headed screws to substitute for staples. I say flat headed, because if you use a screw that stands above the siding on the flange, the next panel down that hides them will be deformed by the screw head resulting in small bumps (ask me how I know this).
Use 1-1/2" wide butyl tape to reseal the corners, screw down the corner molding, use the same butyl tape to replace any windows etc. that were removed and replace the old (or new if needed) vinyl insert and your done.
Hope this answers your question,
Rich
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1992 T-2470 (now residing in South Carolina)
Current Sunline-2007 Solaris 2499
2018 Silverado 1500 w/Max Trailering pkg.
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11-11-2015, 03:59 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 6
SUN #7811
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Thanks, Rich. That's kinda what I thought, just needed verification...and a sunny weekend!
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11-14-2015, 05:58 PM
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#15
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Hi Bud,
This may help. Here are some pics to go along with the process VCRT was describing.
This is a camper slide repair however the siding comes off and back on the same on most camper. I used a fine standard screw driver to gently get under the staples and then needle nose vise grips to pull out the staples. Sometimes the vise grips will grap and I do not need the screw driver.
Hope this helps
John
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...html#post84571
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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04-17-2016, 03:24 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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I just started what I thought would be the same repair. Got the siding off and sure enough the wood was rotted. Bigger problem was when I reached up and the subfloor in this area was virtually non-existent. Seems like only thing keeping stuff in storage bin is the linoleum floor. Really need some advice on what to do now. Can I work from the bottom to replace some flooring? I am going to have to pull down a lot of the membrane to see what's what. How do I repair it? I will pm my contact number to anyone who can help?
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04-17-2016, 07:12 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 838
SUN #37
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Let's start with some photos. Every camper is different and requires a different approach to working on it.
Rich
__________________
1992 T-2470 (now residing in South Carolina)
Current Sunline-2007 Solaris 2499
2018 Silverado 1500 w/Max Trailering pkg.
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04-17-2016, 07:54 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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Unless I am mistaken, I need to get a photobucket account to post a picture? Or is there an easier way? I do have a picture of the damage.
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04-17-2016, 08:05 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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04-17-2016, 08:09 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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How about that! It worked. So, there is my problem. The rafters that the wood ties into is also rotted and the floor above the dark area is dust. I am thinking of taking down some of the bottom membrane to get a better look before I take out the rot. How easy/difficult is it to re attach and tape up the membrane?
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