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Old 03-21-2017, 07:43 PM   #1
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Leveling jack locations

I own a 1995 Sunline 21' travel trailer and will be mounting four scissor jacks to the frame work . I would like to know if there is some specific manufacturer recommended locations that these should be placed . The purpose is to make camper setup quicker using these and a cordless drill . Thank you
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Old 03-22-2017, 03:04 PM   #2
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Most people install them on the four outside corners as that gives you the best overall stability.

You need to be careful as they can scrape/bend at certain angles in transit, which is a common problem.

One of the scissor jacks was bent on my camper when I bought it last year. Not surprised as my model is not that high off the ground. one step into the camper.
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Old 03-22-2017, 04:04 PM   #3
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If you plan to go with the scissor jacks, I ran across a product called Save A Jack. It allows you to take the jacks on and off quickly. This avoids damaging the jacks when you are traveling. I have read that jacks get damaged, as JohnnyBGood stated.
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Old 03-23-2017, 08:15 AM   #4
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Jack Leveling Locations

HI , thanks for your responses to my posting question . I have a document that appears to be from the SunLine company that gives jacking instructions for tandem axle rigs , I own the T2053 model . is this for jacking to change a tie or jacking points for leveling camper ?
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Old 03-23-2017, 09:05 AM   #5
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Quote:
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HI , thanks for your responses to my posting question . I have a document that appears to be from the SunLine company that gives jacking instructions for tandem axle rigs , I own the T2053 model . is this for jacking to change a tie or jacking points for leveling camper ?


That is for actually jacking up the trailer.

For stabilizers, they need to be near the four corners of the rig; usually a foot or two inward. The rear ones need to be far enough in that they don't scrape on hills and driveways.
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Old 03-23-2017, 09:07 AM   #6
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That is for jacking up the camper to change a tire. The jacking point to be not more then 18" from the axle hanger.

I have T1950 here in the yard. It is 20' 4" long. Your T2053 I think is not much longer. I will look and post later what Sunline did on the T1950.
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Old 03-23-2017, 10:56 AM   #7
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I have T1950 here in the yard.
I think you're really taking a liking to this two-Sunline thing!
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Old 03-23-2017, 06:07 PM   #8
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I think you're really taking a liking to this two-Sunline thing!
Now that's funny.... I got a good laugh out of that.... There are actually 3 Sunline's here at the moment. One is camping in the barn for the winter and will go back home come spring.
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Old 03-23-2017, 06:30 PM   #9
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Hi Rich,

I'm not sure there is a "standard" exact distance of where the stabilizers go. This may help and I would say be a guide to help you locate yours. The bigger issue is the rear stabilizer as it can hit "if" it is the lowest thing on the back of the camper. But now seeing my T1950 today, the stabilizer may not be the lowest thing on the back of the camper.

On my 2004 T1950, which is 20' 4" ball to bumper, the front stabilizer is 14" to the center of the stabilizer behind the A frame header.


The rear stabilizer will only about fit in this one location. It is approx 12" from the end of the frame where the bumper bolts to the center of the stabilizer. Point is, with this style of stabilizer, the V bar is taller then the stabilizer so the V will hit before the stabilizer will. And in this case, it cannot go much further forward as the black tank is there. If you have the Bal scissors type of stabilizer, they are a little thicker and do not fold up as flat as the ones on this T1950.


Here is the door side of the camper


To try and see if there is a pattern by Sunline to this, I measured 2 more Sunline I have access to. There are however slide campers. Don't know if that makes a difference or not, just noting it. When Steve mentioned 18" that sounded like a pretty good estimate but the floor plan seems to change the way Sunline places these. I never measured these before until today.

2004 T310SR is 32' ball to bumper.
The front stabilizer is 36" from the header to the center of the stabilizer.
The rear stabilizer is 24" from the end of the frame where the bumper bolts to, to the center of the stabilizer.

2006 T264SR is 27' 7" ball to bumper.
The front stabilizer is 24" from the header to the center of the stabilizer.
The rear stabilizer is 24" from the end of the frame where the bumper bolts to, to the center of the stabilizer.

Why does a 32' camper have the front stabilizer at 36" while a 27' 7" camper have the front stabilizer at 24"?? Don't really know.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:03 AM   #10
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On my 1996 T-2053 the OME leveling jacks are: front: 24" center of jack to front frame and back: 20" center of jack to bumper. They hang down 3 1/2" from bottom of frame.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:07 AM   #11
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On my 1996 T-2053 the OME leveling jacks are: front: 24" center of jack to front frame and back: 20" center of jack to bumper. They hang down 3 1/2" from bottom of frame.
They were probably dealer installed in that time frame, especially if they are individual scissor type. I think they only became standard features on Sunlines with Lippert frames. If they are the style where the bar just drops down and can't really lift much (aka stabilizer jack), it was probably factory installed. I believe those were the ones that were actually factory optional in the '90s.
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:05 PM   #12
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They look to be the same as on JohnB's 1950.

I think I should have said stabilizer.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:46 PM   #13
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I crawled under the T1950 today. Those stabilizers are one long unit which spans the main frame rails. They pivot down on an angle.

I think I am going to need a case of PB Blaster....to get them loosened up. They are really rusted badly and have not been moved since 2010. I will see what I'm into when the rebuild time comes.
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Old 03-25-2017, 05:52 PM   #14
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I have two old-style bottle jacks that I put under the back two corners of the camper. That combined with the tongue jack does a good job of cutting down the movement while parked. It probably doesn't work as well as having jacks under all four corners, but I already had these and they work well enough for me. They are not permanently mounted. I just toss them into the back of the truck cab when they are not in use.

I found out the hard way that those Camco jackstands they sell at Walmart are too tall for use my camper - ended up taking them back and using the jacks I had in the garage.
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Old 03-26-2017, 03:33 PM   #15
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When I bought my 1996 T-1700 in 2016 it had scissor jacks on the rear, bolted to a metal plate that was welded to the frame. You can see the plate in the foreground. I have no idea if this was done at the factory or not.



The front has these Fulton brand jacks (not sure what they call this type). They are welded to a metal plate and tuck up close. I recently added scissor jacks because the Fulton jacks are a hassle to use, but keeping them on in case of clearance issues with the scissor jacks. Again, I don't know if these were from the factory or not.

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Old 03-27-2017, 10:55 AM   #16
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I crawled under the T1950 today. Those stabilizers are one long unit which spans the main frame rails. They pivot down on an angle.

I think I am going to need a case of PB Blaster....to get them loosened up. They are really rusted badly and have not been moved since 2010. I will see what I'm into when the rebuild time comes.
Yeah, those are probably the factory ones. My dad's trailer had those on the rear, and we added a set to the front. They are ok if you always stay on level ground, but they suck if you are on uneven ground whatsoever. I put foot pads on it for him and they are still very wobbly. Not good jacks for a 30' trailer.

If they are rusted that badly, it might be better just to price out new ones. I did that on my '97 since they were all bent up and using two different handle types. I think they ended up being like $60/pair.

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When I bought my 1996 T-1700 in 2016 it had scissor jacks on the rear, bolted to a metal plate that was welded to the frame. You can see the plate in the foreground. I have no idea if this was done at the factory or not.



The front has these Fulton brand jacks (not sure what they call this type). They are welded to a metal plate and tuck up close. I recently added scissor jacks because the Fulton jacks are a hassle to use, but keeping them on in case of clearance issues with the scissor jacks. Again, I don't know if these were from the factory or not.

The jack plates were installed at the factory (or frame factory), for installing jacks. Yours probably didn't come with jacks because they wouldn't have done just two. Those Fulton kick down jacks are commonly found on the rear of small cargo trailers and on all four corners of a pop up. They are just for stability and the only way to put weight on them is to adjust up and down using the tongue jack. They are pretty cheap and light duty.
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:40 PM   #17
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The Fulton jacks do an ok job of stabilizing the camper. But like you say, have to use the tongue jack to put weight on them. Not to mention you've got to get down on your knees and practically crawl under the camper to release them from the stowed position.
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:56 PM   #18
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Thanks you all for your replies

Like to thank each and every one that replied to my posting on the proper way to level and stabilize my camper . It certainly does help knowing how to do this correctly , frankly in the beginning I thought about just bolting up some supports not thinking much more . Now I can do this job with full understanding on locations , tips on possible problems I might have and what other Sunline owners are doing and have experienced . Lots of good information and with photos ! Again , thanks for your input , I know it takes lots of time to post photos and make comments , much appreciated . Now it is time to order my new jacks and install now that the weather is getting warm .
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