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Old 10-20-2010, 08:51 PM   #21
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Thanks Dona and Charlie!
I am glad to learn that the type of dryer sheet is not that critical, so even a cheaper generic version will do the job.
Blew out the water lines yesterday and pumped red pop through the system.
I used a shop vac to blow out the traps in the sinks and shower in order to keep the water resting there from diluting the red pop and raising the freeze point. It took two gallons.
Friday I tow up to Rapid city, and hope the rain holds off, so we can put the roof on the pole barn. Walls will have to wait till next year, but the Sunline will be covered this coming winter.
Roar
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:07 PM   #22
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the Sunline will be covered this coming winter.
Roar
LOL Yeah, that baby has been so pampered it might go into shock with a foot of snow on it.

Thanks to JohnB, you have a great camper and it's good to see you will be able to keep it that way.
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:15 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by clueless campers View Post
LOL Yeah, that baby has been so pampered it might go into shock with a foot of snow on it.

Thanks to JohnB, you have a great camper and it's good to see you will be able to keep it that way.
Yes it is good to see our children flourish. She has a great new home, well loved.
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Old 11-09-2010, 09:52 PM   #24
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great tutorial! 1st time using TT this summer. LOVED it. was worried about winterizing, but feel comfortable now. Thanks. Quick question.... should A/C unit be covered at all? or whole top of trailer?
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Old 11-10-2010, 04:21 AM   #25
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great tutorial! 1st time using TT this summer. LOVED it. was worried about winterizing, but feel comfortable now. Thanks. Quick question.... should A/C unit be covered at all? or whole top of trailer?
Good Morning TigerWho,

I'm glad to hear that it was helpful to you! Winterizing isn't a big deal to do, especially once you get comfortable with it.

I don't cover the AC specifically. Following the pictures, I covered the trailer with a full-trailer cover, so I considered that sufficient for covering the AC too.

Be careful if you cover just the top of the trailer. If you use a tarp, make sure it has air movement under it, so prop it up somehow. If you don't, it will act like a seal over the trailer, moisture will collect under there, and you might have mold problems in the spring.

I did the covering process a couple weeks after I did the winterizing you saw here, so that's why it wasn't included in the original posting. If you would like though, I could give you some pointers for covering your coach.

Jon
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:30 AM   #26
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Trailer AC shrouds should be covered except when on the road or camping. The plastic is not very stable and UV will break it down. We can park at home so keeping it covered all year is not very onerous. I use an 8 ft. step ladder, toss the cover over the shroud and pull it down a bit on one side and then move the ladder to the other side to pull it all the way down. Then back to the first side to finish off. Beats getting out boards and climbing on the roof. Same thing to remove it: pull it up over the top from one side then move to the other side and pull it off. Doesn't take even 5 min. Cover the tires, cover the shroud; it's part of the routine. So, even if you do cover the trailer for the winter, I would still get the AC cover for the rest of the year.

ADCO Air Conditioner Cover is on sale right now. If you want some help picking the size let us know.

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Old 11-28-2010, 06:37 PM   #27
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Ok folks, I've "lurking" (hate that term) for several weeks and getting many hours or great instruction that I'd never get anywhere else. Thank you all so much. I've printed out and started a folder to keep everything. This was such a wonderful help for a first time owner. We have bought a 1984 or 1985 T1550 and were only able to use it 3 times so far before we decided to winterize until next spring.

I thought I'd covered everything by reading as much as I could find about winterizing. I dumped 3 gals of "pink stuff" into an already pumped dry water tank then turned the pump on and ran all the hot and cold faucets until I got Pink return. Not much Pink was used from the tank before I got it (pink) from the faucets. Probably less than a half gallon. After looking at the bypass systems, I'm still confused. Mine has one valve with one connection at the bottom under the valve(?bypass line?) near the top of the tank going to a T with lines going forward and aft. My thoughts are forward is hot to the bath, aft to the sink. The bottom tank opening has a valve just like the top one. at the bottom is the (?bypass?) line going back up to the bottom of the top valve. There is a third valve at the bottom of the 2nd (bottom) valve connected inline to what I think is th bypass line that goes up to the bottom of the top valve. Distal to the bottom valve is anothe T like the top with lines again running fore and aft. All of the valve handles are turned inline with the line they controll. I'm not even sure if valve handles positioned inline is open or closed. I'll have to read more to see if I can learn how to upload a picture that I took of the water line connections.

I DID start the hot water gas burner once for just long enough to see that the burner was working just after we bought it but not long enough to heat the water. I thought I was finished winterizing but now I see that I should have drained the hot water tank first. Should I just open the hot water drain until I get pink now?

It also appears that I need to move the location for the jack stands. We have a single axle so should I still go 18 inches front and back to the wheels? I've been going to each CORNER. Also should I jack up high enough to free the tires from the ground.

Another issue..I really don't want to try to remove the awning but am worried about leaving it rolled but still exposed all winter. Any suggestions?

Last, (for now, because I have so much to learn), other than for the scent, is there any other reason for the dryer sheets throuhout the trailer?

Thanks so much to everyone for such extremely great information...........Mike
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:41 PM   #28
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Hi Mike,

Welcome to the Sunline Owners Club (SOC)

I don't have the 3 valve bypass like that so instead of guessing I know someone will comment and give you the correct info.

Quote:
Should I just open the hot water drain until I get pink now?
Yup, open the drain, usually a threaded plastic plug, on the outside. You will have to lift the handle for the pressure relief valve to let some air in to drain the water. A little will remain but is not a problem.

Quote:
Also should I jack up high enough to free the tires from the ground.
I never raise the wheels off the ground for the winter. The jack stands are ok on the corners to stabilize, you only need to put them near the wheels if you want to lift the wheels.

Quote:
Another issue..I really don't want to try to remove the awning but am worried about leaving it rolled but still exposed all winter. Any suggestions?
No need to remove the awning, I don't think anyone does. Yes it will get water inside but not an issue.

Quote:
....other than for the scent, is there any other reason for the dryer sheets throuhout the trailer?
Some people think it keeps the mice away. Lots of hot debate on the subject on rv.net. Quite probably putting the dryer sheets near the gas burners on the water heater and the fridge will keep the spiders away, they love the small of gas. I also use mothballs near the gas burners since they are outside and the smell of mothballs doesn't get inside the coach.

Feel free to post any more questions you may have, lots of good people here willing to help.

Gene
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Old 11-29-2010, 02:56 PM   #29
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HOLY BAT GUANO BATMAN.... Releave the water pressure on the hot water tank if you have used the pump to circulate the PINK stuff with out drainning the hot water tank.

I went out this afternoon and started opening the drain plug on the hot water heater. slow drizzle at first until I got to the ends of the threads. Then it blew out and water splattered all over me....LOL...DUH... Do you think I should have relieved the pressure before I opend the drain plug......Mj
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:27 PM   #30
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Ouch .... sorry about not mentioning that. I have a drain valve I added and just expect it to run fast at first after doing it a few years.
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:19 PM   #31
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I really like that idea, just open or close a valve instead of needing a socket with an extension. That's another thing to add to my list of "to do's". Thanks..MikeJ
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:36 PM   #32
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Mike,
My previous coach, an eighteen foot 1991 Dutchmen, had a three valve bypass system.
Close the inlet and outlet for the heater and open the valve in the bypass line. Pump "red pop" through the bypass to a hot water faucet. Drain the heater, and that should do it.
Roar
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:39 PM   #33
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Thank you so much for your reply. Please look at the picture and tell me how you think the valves are set. This is the way they are/have been since we bought our coach. We have never yet used te water heater other than me starting it once to see that the burner was working. To me it looks like ALL of the valves are open and should NOT be left like this for operation. Let me know what you think. Once again, thanks for your reply and input........MikeJ
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:54 AM   #34
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The valves (three-way) in the supply and return lines the handle will be inline with the direction the water flows. They are currently flowing into the tank. On the bypass valve (on-off) the handle will be across the line when closed. You need to close the bypass valve in the picture for normal operation. This is how they should be set: (The three way valves will actually be inline with the bypass pipe, i.e. they aren't really closed.)

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Old 12-03-2010, 06:21 PM   #35
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Gee, I am so impressed with the help I've gotten. It makes it all seem so simple when you add all the text with the explaination. I am SO appreciative of everyones help.......MikeJ
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:44 PM   #36
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Gee, I am so impressed with the help I've gotten. I am SO appreciative of everyones help.......MikeJ
That is the Sunline Owners Club way!!! We are for sure a self support group since the factory went out. Kuddos to Mack on taking the extra effort

We too learn from you. Each time someone posts questions or even better pics, we all learn something from them. So thank you for helping us

John
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Old 11-14-2013, 07:35 PM   #37
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Steve,
Can you tell me where the low point drains are on my Solaris T2450? I believe I have read that you have one of these units. You maintenance posts have been quite helpful to me as a first time owner of a RV. I have opened the fresh water holding tank spigot and have removed the hot water heater retaining plug.
thanks,
Charlie
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:20 PM   #38
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Steve,
Can you tell me where the low point drains are on my Solaris T2450? I believe I have read that you have one of these units. You maintenance posts have been quite helpful to me as a first time owner of a RV. I have opened the fresh water holding tank spigot and have removed the hot water heater retaining plug.
thanks,
Charlie
Look under the trailer. Way under, you should see 2 tubes protroding from the bottom side. Those are your low points. Now go topside to the area of those tubes there you should find valves to open.
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:00 AM   #39
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Look under the trailer. Way under, you should see 2 tubes protroding from the bottom side. Those are your low points. Now go topside to the area of those tubes there you should find valves to open.
I wish I had read to the end of this thread and seen this post. I saw the two hoses sticking out but I didn't make the connection with the two valves in the coach above so I skipped that step.

I had expected to have another weekend to do the plumbing winterization but with temps in the 20's last night, I had to push the schedule up and do it yesterday morning. It didn't occur to ne to read beyond the first post. D'oh.
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:53 AM   #40
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I made a blow out from a old garden hose and a quick disconnect fitting. Just screw it in set the air regulator to some thing 30-40 psi. Shut off the heater by pass, drain every thing then close the drains. Apply air blow everything out one at a time reopen the drains leave the faucets open. I have a fresh water tank bypass to the pump so I bypass that turn on the pump suckup about a pint or so of antifreeze turn off the pump little pink goo in the drains park it in the barn. I hate the taste and smell of the antifreeze so I don't bother to pump it through the lines never have had an issue and we get weeks with sub zero weather. Whole deal in about 1/2 an hour. A gallon of antifreeze lasts me 2-3 years.
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